soft floor repair/replace

lcblcb Posts: 7Member
edited March 2018 in Modifications & Upgrades
Has anyone ever used a epoxy wood rot product to firm their floor back up on soft spots an what product did you use and if it works

Comments

  • dragonsdoflydragonsdofly Posts: 1,047Member
    @Icb, I see you're new here. Welcome to the forum. Some information is useful so those who have repaired their trailers with this problem. What year trailer do you have? Was it manufactured by Dutchman? That info can help others diagnose problems and recommend solutions. Good luck.
    2017 [email protected] sofitel([email protected])TV 2015 Silverado 2500hd. Wyandotte, Michigan.
    Draco dormiens numquam titilandus.
  • lcblcb Posts: 7Member
    2004 [email protected]  by Dutchman floor soft across from door to far side left wall Bought Cheap an even with repairs it still will be a bargain
  • dragonsdoflydragonsdofly Posts: 1,047Member
    @Icb, I understand the Dutchman [email protected] had wood in the floors and had water infiltration problems. They are constructed differently than the pleasant valley/NuCamp models. But there have been a few posts here about repairing the floors. Use the category list on the left side of the screen and look for mods/upgrades. You can use the search feature on the upper right side of the screen to search for floors or soft floors. I do remember someone posting something about injecting the type of material you are asking about for soft floor repair, but don't remember the specifics. May I also suggest you pose this question on the Yahoo forum which has many more Dutchman members. Keep us informed about what you find, and maybe some of the others here can answer your question directly as there are great folks and a wealth of information and expertise to be had. Good luck!
    2017 [email protected] sofitel([email protected])TV 2015 Silverado 2500hd. Wyandotte, Michigan.
    Draco dormiens numquam titilandus.
  • dragonsdoflydragonsdofly Posts: 1,047Member
    @Icb, found a thread by @irvingj, dated July 2016, which appears to address all of your questions. I apologize for not being able to post that link, but maybe someone else will. Again, good luck with everything. 
    2017 [email protected] sofitel([email protected])TV 2015 Silverado 2500hd. Wyandotte, Michigan.
    Draco dormiens numquam titilandus.
  • ScottGScottG Posts: 3,039Moderator
    See here for above referenced discussion!
  • irvingjirvingj Posts: 317Member
    edited March 2018
    lcb-- Yes, I used a two-part, cellulose-based epoxy, with good success... BUT I only used it under the small storage area beneath the 3-way fridge, as the linoleum flooring was in good shape in the central area and I didn't want to lift it all up, and the worst of my soft floor --and where the water had come in-- was in that storage area. For the main part of the floor, I reinforced from beneath with aluminum grating and some steel brackets attached to the frame. You can see pics in the above-mentioned discussion, but let me know if you need more info.

    The epoxy I used was from "The Rot Doctor" who sells his product online only. It seems to be a very good one specifically for repairing wooden structures; it penetrates exceptionally well. Here's what it looks like, Part A and Part B cans...


  • GeoGeo Posts: 72Member
    @Icb, I would highly recommend a whole new floor !
    The soft floor syndrome is a symptom of the floor rotting out from under you. Patching the floor with various plates and added structure under the trailer is not addressing the real issue, water intrusion soaking into the plywood decking used on the bottom and top of the DM [email protected]'s floor.
    DM [email protected]'s have a 1/8" plywood on the bottom and two layers of 1/8" plywood on the top of a very thin aluminum square tubing frame with the voids filled with Styrofoam insulation. Water intrusion is very common around  the wheel wells, front seam, and the cool cat opening. Our worst area was below the entrance door as no caulking was used to seal the bottom frame of the door. I had sealed the wheel wells in '06 as I could see daylight looking down into the storage area under passenger bench seat.
    NuCamp has a replacement floor available for the DM [email protected]'s that uses a fiberglass type board that is waterproof. I replaced our floor in '16 with this newer floor supplied by NuCamp.


    Very pleased with the results. Some of us have done this ourselves others have let the factory complete the makeover.

    If you love your vintage [email protected] it is well worth making it new again. . .
    Geo & Liz
    [email protected]
    '04  #100
  • ScottGScottG Posts: 3,039Moderator
    @Geo, nice job! What was involved in getting the camper body off the floor? It looks from the photos that the interior was completely gutted.
  • irvingjirvingj Posts: 317Member
    I had no idea a complete floor replacement was possible. Great job, the way it should be done!
  • lcblcb Posts: 7Member
    Thanks all for information,Most like will replace flooring an  Thank's Geo  what was cost of replacement floor if you don't mind shareing
  • lcblcb Posts: 7Member
    At last, after tearing out front cabinets and side seating boxes, ripped floor out and only rot was front half of floor,cut all out reinforced between frame rails and replaced with salt treated 1/2 plywood and new vinyl looks good solid and found water leak coming from front gas vent for fridge good for  another 14 yrs. thanks to all for post.
  • RatkityRatkity Posts: 3,724Member
    That sounds like a lot of work @lcb!! Any picts of the process?
    2017 820R Retro Toy Hauler from 2015 Tabitha [email protected] from 2009 Reverse LG Teardrop (but a [email protected] at heart)
  • HeavysquadHeavysquad Posts: 15Member
    Geo said:
    @ScottG , surprisingly very little!  The DM [email protected]'s are a unibody type construction, 10 large screws through the side walls into floor framing and then the inside benches and cabinets hold it all together. Once trim and seam pieces were removed from the handles down, just started prying the seams apart with putty knife and jacking the body/shell up. Only the bed/dinette structures were removed, front cabinets I only removed the screws into the floor.

    @irvingj , about 6 to 10 (maybe more) of us DM owner's have either done it ourselves or had the factory do it.

    @Icb, NuCamp charged me $600.00 for a blank floor, two plastic wheel well replacements, and the bottom fiberglass fabric. An additional $400.00 for shipping. You could save a lot if your close enough to factory for pick-up, or perhaps have it shipped to a dealer along with a trailer delivery.
    Blank floor was just that - no holes at all, no bottom fabric, no top layer of plywood, no linoleum or floor finish, no end wood pieces to tie into the curving front and rear of trailer.

    You must remember the DM [email protected]'s are a lot simpler in construction than the later Pleasant Valley / NuCamp units.
    X2 on any more pics?

    What is the fabric hanging down?
  • ScottGScottG Posts: 3,039Moderator
    I'm assuming that's the "bottom fiberglass fabric" described above by lcb.
  • lcblcb Posts: 7Member
    Sorry i didn't take pics. but yes a lot of work,but cost wise about $200. labor not figured in,now its time to go camping
  • HeavysquadHeavysquad Posts: 15Member
    Geo said:
    @ScottG , surprisingly very little!  The DM [email protected]'s are a unibody type construction, 10 large screws through the side walls into floor framing and then the inside benches and cabinets hold it all together. Once trim and seam pieces were removed from the handles down, just started prying the seams apart with putty knife and jacking the body/shell up. Only the bed/dinette structures were removed, front cabinets I only removed the screws into the floor.

    @irvingj , about 6 to 10 (maybe more) of us DM owner's have either done it ourselves or had the factory do it.

    @Icb, NuCamp charged me $600.00 for a blank floor, two plastic wheel well replacements, and the bottom fiberglass fabric. An additional $400.00 for shipping. You could save a lot if your close enough to factory for pick-up, or perhaps have it shipped to a dealer along with a trailer delivery.
    Blank floor was just that - no holes at all, no bottom fabric, no top layer of plywood, no linoleum or floor finish, no end wood pieces to tie into the curving front and rear of trailer.

    You must remember the DM [email protected]'s are a lot simpler in construction than the later Pleasant Valley / NuCamp units.
    Hey Geo, I'm replacing my floor and the prior owner did much of the demo, so I am just figuring it out as I go. I have a couple of questions.

    1) the floor fabric, did you cut it or just glue it to the walls under the cabinets?

    2) did you re-use the wood on the front and back? Any pics of that area? I have nothing to go on.  Here is my build https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/7523/2005-tab-floor-replacement#latest
  • GeoGeo Posts: 72Member
    @Heavysquad ;
    1) The 'bottom fabric' was trimmed after lowering the 'shell' onto the floor. The front was wrapped under the aluminum skin as high as it would go, the sides were trimmed to the outside edge of the 'shell'. A bead of caulk laid between fabric and bottom edge of side wall before reinstalling the aluminum edge trim (very messy but all covered by plastic decorative trim). 
    2) I made new wood front and rear edge pieces from pressure treated wood then soaked them in 'Thompsons' water seal before installing them. I copied the profile from what little was left of the original. I also filled the open ends of the aluminum with foam sealer as the original floor's wood inserts were rotting.
    Geo & Liz
    [email protected]
    '04  #100
  • HeavysquadHeavysquad Posts: 15Member
    That’s great info, thanks. Did you use a spray adhesive to get the fabric to stick to the floor?
  • kdcampergirlkdcampergirl Posts: 5Member
    Ughhh. Tackling a similar job right now. Damage seems to be in closet (diver's side front). I have removed the rotted section and plan to replace and reinforce. I'll also call NüCamp about a replacement. 
  • dragonsdoflydragonsdofly Posts: 1,047Member
    @kdcampergirl, what year [email protected] do you have? And have you identified the source or location of the leak so you can prevent this from happening again? 
    2017 [email protected] sofitel([email protected])TV 2015 Silverado 2500hd. Wyandotte, Michigan.
    Draco dormiens numquam titilandus.
  • kdcampergirlkdcampergirl Posts: 5Member
    @dragonsdofly...I have an 06.  I was just about the look up how to take off the trim to access the side seams so I can caulk those.  The worst of the leak was in the very front corner of the closet so I'm assuming that's where the leak is.  There has been intrusion under the sink and fridge in the past but seems dry now and floor is solid.  Still I'd like to prevent further leaks.  Here's a picture of what I've done so far!
  • dragonsdoflydragonsdofly Posts: 1,047Member
    @kdcampergirl, wow, you're much more ambitious than me. That looks like a job and a half. Kudos that you would undertake such a heavy duty challenge. Boy, this appears to be one great love story. Please keep us informed as to your progress. Take and post lots of photos. Remember our mantra - pics or it didn't happen!  Good luck! - Denise
    2017 [email protected] sofitel([email protected])TV 2015 Silverado 2500hd. Wyandotte, Michigan.
    Draco dormiens numquam titilandus.
  • kdcampergirlkdcampergirl Posts: 5Member
    @dragonsdofly... Thanks for the kudos! I've learned a lot on this and other groups so I hope I can pull this off. The demo was easy and luckily it's the closet so I don't have to worry too much about cosmetics! My little Orange Blossom has taken me on quite a few adventures and was our shelter during Hurricane Irma. She has a lot more camping life in her yet 😍
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