BrianZ, thank you for taking the time to post your pictures of the PWM Controller install. My wife and I followed your picture instructions to the “T” and everything went back in place perfectly and worked as expected the first time. No issues at all!! We can now leave our portable fan home and use that space for something else.
You're welcome, @Freespirit. Glad to hear it worked for you the first time - that's great! @MuttonChops found a great application for the PWM controller. It has really helped us sleep without excessive fan noise & also conserve battery power when camping without hookups.
-Brian in Chester, Virginia TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6) RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
Jumping in late, but I just completed this mod. It was as simple as swapping out the 3-speed switch for the variable speed rheostat provided by @Lloyd above. The existing connectors aren't an exact match with the new part but I made them work. Ultimately I'll have to replace the connectors or apply a couple dabs of solder for connections that will hold up in the long run. Edit: 4 years later. I have never made any changes to the connectors and the fan modification still works as desired.
I added one to the bathroom fan in our 400. On low speed you can barely hear the fan. I can run it in the rain as well. I prop the door open with a pool noodle.
I was all set to swap out our fan but I’m happy as is.
Thanks to all the prior wizards for their trials and posts on making the speed controller retrofit a success. Who else has had the fan cover plastic tabs fail?
While adding a fan hood to our 2021 TAB 320, I found a piece of black plastic atop the fan screen. Turns out the lifting mechanism attaches to the fan cover via two extruded plastic 'clip angles' which cracked where the sheetmetal screws go into them. Have not read about this happening to others, we travelled on very bumpy highways with the lid socked down. Upgrading to variable speed control and disassembly elicited the second clip angle was also broken.
Pic 1. Cut the clip angle remnants off with a dremel wheel and fabricated an aluminum angle to mount he lifting mechanism to. SS #12 x 1/2 sheetmetal screws through fan lid, did not want to remove the added hood to through-bolt which would be better. Buttered the holes with silicone caulk before assembly.
2. removed four-position original fan switch, used 1/8 drillbit to slot edge for metal tab on potentiometer (speed control knob) so it does not swivel after mounting. Mounted potentiometer here. Peeled and scraped off 0123 label and created a tapered arrow label in its stead.
3. After experimenting with speed controller (printed circuit board) locations, determined the only feasible spot is angled atop the potentiometer (below photo 2 above) as others have done. Made plywood support for it to anchor to. Epoxied plywood to plastic fan cowling. Covered potentiometer with stickyback epdm pipe insulation to prevent circuit board shorting.
4. Used angle grinder to remove corner of outer heat sink, to clear fan cowling. Careful not to overheat board from the grinding heat. Test fit into cowling and test fit cowling into fan opening.
5. Hot melt glued controller board in place.
6. Wired it up with 14ga stranded, see PDF. You need both fullsize and half-width female spade connectors, insulated or heat-shrunk. Cut down several zip-tie adhesive-backed mounts to corral wires.
15 month followup. Had to replace fan motor due to whining. (The fan motor not the occupants.) Less than 1000 hours on it. Unhappy that I had to swap it out so soon. Also the injection molded fan rotor assembly exhibits stress cracks around the shaft opening.
New fan motor, mounting arm, and fan from Amazon. DOMETIC-K8017-00-Blade-Motor-Assembly/dp/B01N1MK7T9 for $57. However the shaft has significant runout and the rotor wobbles... it will not last! Not as visible during preinstallation test off 12v power center.
Pulled 12v fuse during work. Pulled interior screen, unscrewed and pulled fan blade from below.
Must remove added fan hood, unscrew raising arm, and access from top of camper, to access the four fan arm screws.
Pressure switch interrupts power when fan lid is down. Black lead of replacement fan has ring connector, must unscrew pressure switch from above camper to replace this lead. (You can pull out this banana plug from below rather than chopping off and replacing crimped connector to in/out selector, as I did.)
We run fan outgoing at low speed 100% of time when occupying camper. Reverse to inflow during showers and heating water on stove. Just added a cooking exhaust portable 12v fan below stove wall cab as well.
I realize I am resurrecting an old thread, where the previous last post is 3 years old - but...
I did this mod this week. Worked great. Took me an afternoon (but I am a little OCD & AR).
Only one blown fuse during the whole process: as it turns out, the hot wire from the camper is the black wire. Fuses are our friends. (Noteworthily strange: in our 2025 360 CS - the fuse was marked only for "fan" but it also took out all of our accent lighting - even though there is a separate fuse marked "lighting", but it did not take out the top overhead light.)
The new knob was way too small for the existing hole from the original 3 speed knob. The new knob nut would just fall through the existing hole, so instead - where the old one was I made my cutout for my power switch, and I put the new knob and PWM in the remaining unused corner.
My wife made the labels out of vinyl using a cricut, and I applied them with not the greatest alignment in the world but they work ok
Nicely done! This is still a highly viable mod, which saves power and makes the fan a lot quieter.
This must have been the first real "mod" I worked back in 2018.........and, wow, looking at the thread, I sure would have had an easier time with the tools I have now!
I'm installing the fan mod with the pwm controller recommended by @valkraider. It fits great, but it's not giving me variable speed... Either off when the pot is turned off, or full speed when the pot is rotated just a bit. Ideas?
I have the DV1450 fan and I don't think it's going to be compatible. I think the pwm frequency is too high from this board and it's not adjustable. Even with adding a 100 mfd capacitor in line to buffer the pwm the fan motor is either full on or full off.
Gomers2 said:
. . . DV1450 fan . .
. . . think the pwm frequency is too high
IMHO it is more likely the PWM Board or the variable resistor control pot are defective. Do you have a computer fan or similar item kicking around to test the PWM Board with?
- 801450 and 801250 (older discontinued) fans appear to be identical except for the housings.
- Your PWM board has a frequency of 15KHz and has worked for others, while the model many of us used runs at 16KHz
Comments
TV 2025 Telluride X Type
@MuttonChops found a great application for the PWM controller. It has really helped us sleep without excessive fan noise & also conserve battery power when camping without hookups.
TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6)
RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
Edit: 4 years later. I have never made any changes to the connectors and the fan modification still works as desired.
Jeff & Amy
Who else has had the fan cover plastic tabs fail?
While adding a fan hood to our 2021 TAB 320, I found a piece of black plastic atop the fan screen. Turns out the lifting mechanism attaches to the fan cover via two extruded plastic 'clip angles' which cracked where the sheetmetal screws go into them. Have not read about this happening to others, we travelled on very bumpy highways with the lid socked down.
Upgrading to variable speed control and disassembly elicited the second clip angle was also broken.
Pic 1. Cut the clip angle remnants off with a dremel wheel and fabricated an aluminum angle to mount he lifting mechanism to. SS #12 x 1/2 sheetmetal screws through fan lid, did not want to remove the added hood to through-bolt which would be better. Buttered the holes with silicone caulk before assembly.
2. removed four-position original fan switch, used 1/8 drillbit to slot edge for metal tab on potentiometer (speed control knob) so it does not swivel after mounting. Mounted potentiometer here. Peeled and scraped off 0123 label and created a tapered arrow label in its stead.
3. After experimenting with speed controller (printed circuit board) locations, determined the only feasible spot is angled atop the potentiometer (below photo 2 above) as others have done. Made plywood support for it to anchor to. Epoxied plywood to plastic fan cowling. Covered potentiometer with stickyback epdm pipe insulation to prevent circuit board shorting.
4. Used angle grinder to remove corner of outer heat sink, to clear fan cowling. Careful not to overheat board from the grinding heat. Test fit into cowling and test fit cowling into fan opening.
5. Hot melt glued controller board in place.
6. Wired it up with 14ga stranded, see PDF. You need both fullsize and half-width female spade connectors, insulated or heat-shrunk. Cut down several zip-tie adhesive-backed mounts to corral wires.
7. Final install.
8. PDF wiring diagram.
2021 T@B 320S Boondock/ 2012 Tacoma 4 cylinder truck / 2023 Tacoma 6 cyl. truck
New fan motor, mounting arm, and fan from Amazon. DOMETIC-K8017-00-Blade-Motor-Assembly/dp/B01N1MK7T9 for $57.
However the shaft has significant runout and the rotor wobbles... it will not last! Not as visible during preinstallation test off 12v power center.
Pulled 12v fuse during work.
Pulled interior screen, unscrewed and pulled fan blade from below.
Must remove added fan hood, unscrew raising arm, and access from top of camper, to access the four fan arm screws.
Pressure switch interrupts power when fan lid is down. Black lead of replacement fan has ring connector, must unscrew pressure switch from above camper to replace this lead. (You can pull out this banana plug from below rather than chopping off and replacing crimped connector to in/out selector, as I did.)
We run fan outgoing at low speed 100% of time when occupying camper. Reverse to inflow during showers and heating water on stove.
Just added a cooking exhaust portable 12v fan below stove wall cab as well.
2021 T@B 320S Boondock/ 2012 Tacoma 4 cylinder truck / 2023 Tacoma 6 cyl. truck
I did this mod this week. Worked great. Took me an afternoon (but I am a little OCD & AR).
Only one blown fuse during the whole process: as it turns out, the hot wire from the camper is the black wire. Fuses are our friends. (Noteworthily strange: in our 2025 360 CS - the fuse was marked only for "fan" but it also took out all of our accent lighting - even though there is a separate fuse marked "lighting", but it did not take out the top overhead light.)
I found a PWM that was a slightly different shape and fit a little better:
NOYITO 30A DC Motor Speed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C1XZB5B
I used this power switch:
Leisure LED Modern Single SPST https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C6YRB492
The new knob was way too small for the existing hole from the original 3 speed knob. The new knob nut would just fall through the existing hole, so instead - where the old one was I made my cutout for my power switch, and I put the new knob and PWM in the remaining unused corner.
My wife made the labels out of vinyl using a cricut, and I applied them with not the greatest alignment in the world but they work ok
2025 Toyota Highlander 2.4L Turbo
Do you have a computer fan or similar item kicking around to test the PWM Board with?
- 801450 and 801250 (older discontinued) fans appear to be identical except for the housings.
- Your PWM board has a frequency of 15KHz and has worked for others, while the model many of us used runs at 16KHz
TV: '25 Canyon AT4
Adventures: 57 Nights: 399 Towing Miles 49,190