Variable Speed (PWM) Ceiling Fan Mod == 10 Bucks

seajeeper

I installed this yesterday.  I must have got a cheap PWM, humming noise from the motor at anything but high speed was terrible.  I put the 3-speed switch back in for now.

MuttonChops

seajeeper said:

. . . must have got a cheap PWM, humming noise from the motor at anything but high speed was terrible. . .

Please post the Brand/Model of the PWM you used so others can avoid that one.

seajeeper

My fault, didn't pay enough attention and bought a 10V-30V PWM

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072NY6TN9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I will save it for some other project....

MuttonChops

@seajeeper

That one is a bit fancy with the reversing function and LEDs

You maybe happier with a more basic 555-timer based board that most (if not all) of the others have used.

BrianZ

Just a follow up comment on real world usage..
The fan speed controller was wonderful for keeping air circulating on low speed with low noise at night, so it was great for sleeping and not even noticeable.  I've also been leaving it on continuously during recent hot summer days to prevent excessive heat buildup inside the trailer, with the dial set at about 1/3 of the full dial range, about the same as for sleeping.  At this setting I measured only 275 milliamps of current usage (3.3 watts at 12V) by connecting my multimeter through the fuse contacts of DC circuit #5 on the converter panel (ceiling fan, A/C fan, & Alde, 10A).  This low current usage is less than roughly a tenth of that at full speed fan usage, so a great power savings as well.

dhauf

I used the same board on amazon found here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F839VNQ/ref=s9_acsd_topr_hd_bw_bKkASR_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=6X8SJGHCR08PE2MWBSCT&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=14998897-f731-5767-bd54-8af36de5bd3b&pf_rd_i=306530011 and wired it to the reversing switch.  On a side note I took the 3 speed switch completely out and put the variable potentiometer in its place and mounted the board right there as well.  Everything works well and it looks like a stock fan with no drilling of additional holes.

MuttonChops

dhauf said:

. . . took the 3 speed switch completely out and put the variable potentiometer in its place and mounted the board right there as well.  Everything works well and it looks like a stock fan with no drilling of additional holes.

You are saying you do not have an On/Off switch in the fan circuit, yes?

When the POT is at its lowest setting, while there is not enough voltage/current to power the motor isn't there enough voltage/current (potential) to cause a problem under the correct (wrong) conditions . . . more baseline drain on the battery, live circuit that could be shorted . . . as the circuit is not Off.

I did consider removing the 3-speed switch but I would have replaced it with a standard toggle On/Off switch.

MuttonChops

Reversing Switch:

During the conversion to PWM controller I was very careful to wire the reversing switch the same as the original.

Have recently found the reversing switch operation seems wrong . . .

There are two symbols on the switch, exhaust direction and intake direction.  On my unit the Switch Symbol needs to be UP for the fan to operate in that mode, in my mind the switch symbol should be down.  I've added a label to my fan . . . Up is On . . .

Many years ago an X-USA Helo pilot told me that the Army did not accept trained Engineers into flight school because the Helo control systems are not logical and engineers never get it right.  . . . true or not good story from a Liberal Arts Major to an Engineering Major.

So are our Fan Reverse Switches the same thing or is mine just installed backwards?

dhauf

MuttonChops said:

dhauf said:

. . . took the 3 speed switch completely out and put the variable potentiometer in its place and mounted the board right there as well.  Everything works well and it looks like a stock fan with no drilling of additional holes.

You are saying you do not have an On/Off switch in the fan circuit, yes?

When the POT is at its lowest setting, while there is not enough voltage/current to power the motor isn't there enough voltage/current (potential) to cause a problem under the correct (wrong) conditions . . . more baseline drain on the battery, live circuit that could be shorted . . . as the circuit is not Off.

I did consider removing the 3-speed switch but I would have replaced it with a standard toggle On/Off switch.

Thats correct I took out the 3 way switch, you don't need it.  If you leave the reverse switch in the center setting it turns off the fan(no voltage can flow through).  Also at the lowest setting of the PWM board it actually stops the motor as well.  If anyone wants pictures I can take some and send them of how I wired mine up.

dhauf

MuttonChops said:

Reversing Switch:

During the conversion to PWM controller I was very careful to wire the reversing switch the same as the original.

Have recently found the reversing switch operation seems wrong . . .

There are two symbols on the switch, exhaust direction and intake direction.  On my unit the Switch Symbol needs to be UP for the fan to operate in that mode, in my mind the switch symbol should be down.  I've added a label to my fan . . . Up is On . . .

Many years ago an X-USA Helo pilot told me that the Army did not accept trained Engineers into flight school because the Helo control systems are not logical and engineers never get it right.  . . . true or not good story from a Liberal Arts Major to an Engineering Major.

So are our Fan Reverse Switches the same thing or is mine just installed backwards?

This is a very simple fix, just reverse the wires going to the motor and it should spin in the correct direction.  You can do this right at the motor control board, there is no polarity for the motor.  Having the wires one way will make is spin clockwise and reversing the wires will make it spin counter clockwise.  This is all that fancy up down switch is actually doing when you press it in the exhaust or intake mode.

seajeeper

dhauf said:

MuttonChops said:

dhauf said:

. . . took the 3 speed switch completely out and put the variable potentiometer in its place and mounted the board right there as well.  Everything works well and it looks like a stock fan with no drilling of additional holes.

You are saying you do not have an On/Off switch in the fan circuit, yes?

When the POT is at its lowest setting, while there is not enough voltage/current to power the motor isn't there enough voltage/current (potential) to cause a problem under the correct (wrong) conditions . . . more baseline drain on the battery, live circuit that could be shorted . . . as the circuit is not Off.

I did consider removing the 3-speed switch but I would have replaced it with a standard toggle On/Off switch.

Thats correct I took out the 3 way switch, you don't need it.  If you leave the reverse switch in the center setting it turns off the fan(no voltage can flow through).  Also at the lowest setting of the PWM board it actually stops the motor as well.  If anyone wants pictures I can take some and send them of how I wired mine up.

I did the same, but added a small on/off switch to be able to turn off voltage to the PWM board.  The reverse switch should be wired to the output of the PWM, so in the OFF position it will turn off power to the fan motor, but not the PWM board.

dhauf

seajeeper said:

dhauf said:

MuttonChops said:

dhauf said:

. . . took the 3 speed switch completely out and put the variable potentiometer in its place and mounted the board right there as well.  Everything works well and it looks like a stock fan with no drilling of additional holes.

You are saying you do not have an On/Off switch in the fan circuit, yes?

When the POT is at its lowest setting, while there is not enough voltage/current to power the motor isn't there enough voltage/current (potential) to cause a problem under the correct (wrong) conditions . . . more baseline drain on the battery, live circuit that could be shorted . . . as the circuit is not Off.

I did consider removing the 3-speed switch but I would have replaced it with a standard toggle On/Off switch.

Thats correct I took out the 3 way switch, you don't need it.  If you leave the reverse switch in the center setting it turns off the fan(no voltage can flow through).  Also at the lowest setting of the PWM board it actually stops the motor as well.  If anyone wants pictures I can take some and send them of how I wired mine up.

I did the same, but added a small on/off switch to be able to turn off voltage to the PWM board.  The reverse switch should be wired to the output of the PWM, so in the OFF position it will turn off power to the fan motor, but not the PWM board.

Thats correct voltage will still go to the PWM controller but this draws practically nothing when the motor is not in use.  For me I didn't bother with installing another switch, but you certainly could if you prefer it.

pthomas745

So are our Fan Reverse Switches the same thing or is mine just installed backwards?

No, your Tab is upside down.

rajamar

@dhauf
When you mounted the PWM in the 3 way switch location did you have to do the Dremel heat sink and board trimming that BrianZ pictured? Does it go in flat?

dhauf

@rajamar I didn't have to cut or Dremel anything.  I hot glued the board in the area of the 3 way switch.  I removed the 3 way switch and installed the potentiometer in its place.  I wish I could send a picture but I don't have it in anymore since I am getting a replacement camper from NuCamp so I took it all out and put back the factory components.  I can show it once I install it in my replacement unit.

rajamar

@dhauf
  
Thanks. I'm going to install my RioRand PWM in the next couple of days and use the the 3 way position so it can go in without any alteration. I'm also going to put a switch in front of the PWM so there is 0 phantom drain. I'm going to use the same switch I put in as a shut off for the Jensen:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KA4FM4Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

dhauf

rajamar said:

@dhauf
  
Thanks. I'm going to install my RioRand PWM in the next couple of days and use the the 3 way position so it can go in without any alteration. I'm also going to put a switch in front of the PWM so there is 0 phantom drain. I'm going to use the same switch I put in as a shut off for the Jensen:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KA4FM4Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That should work also, I took a look at that switch your going to use and it’s only rated for 2A. Just a suggestion you might want to get something a bit beefier as that fan is rated for 4A max.  Perhaps this might work https://www.amazon.com/Quentacy-Latching-Pushbutton-Switch-Waterproof/dp/B071H9KWL6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1535166126&sr=8-3&keywords=12v+latching+switch it’s rated for 5 amps.

TwoOwlsTalking

I had success with this modification, too.  I removed the existing speed control switch and used that corner to hold the new PWM DC motor control circuit board.  I also used the existing knob hole for the new variable speed control.  Rather than cut any existing wires or leaving some unconnected, I just made a few jumper connections; these are red color wires in the photo.  The fit for the circuit board was a bit too big but easily fixed by taking off the two lower corners with the Dremel tool.  I also added a piece of insulation under the board between the knob backing.  The PWM board sits at a ~30* angle.

Like several other people, I am using the center position on the direction switch as my power "OFF", while understanding there is a small parasitic draw from the PWM.  

Here's the DC Motor control board I purchased:  http://a.co/d/gN98nhB

Thanks, everybody, for describing your efforts and for all the good advice.   Much appreciated.

thx

Billy 

dhauf

TwoOwlsTalking said:

I had success with this modification, too.  I removed the existing speed control switch and used that corner to hold the new PWM DC motor control circuit board.  I also used the existing knob hole for the new variable speed control.  Rather than cut any existing wires or leaving some unconnected, I just made a few jumper connections; these are red color wires in the photo.  The fit for the circuit board was a bit too big but easily fixed by taking off the two lower corners with the Dremel tool.  I also added a piece of insulation under the board between the knob backing.  The PWM board sits at a ~30* angle.

Like several other people, I am using the center position on the direction switch as my power "OFF", while understanding there is a small parasitic draw from the PWM.  

Here's the DC Motor control board I purchased:  http://a.co/d/gN98nhB

Thanks, everybody, for describing your efforts and for all the good advice.   Much appreciated.

thx

Billy 

Awesome job!  This is what I did in my unit also.  I used the same board in mine also and it works great.

Dave

Dalehelman

@MuttonChops
I did this mod this morning. Thanks  for  initiating it. After reading all the posts in this thread. I almost  decided  To pass on this one. All in all it was much simpler than I expected. I am always impressed with how many of our members post extremely detailed directions and information. If you guys could boil this stuff down so some of us with less  technical knowledge could understand better. I think more of us could benefit from expertise.

BrianZ

@Dalehelman, I think you're going to like it.  It's nice to be able to sleep with the fan on low speed, or even leave it there all the time during warm weather.

MuttonChops

Dalehelman said:

@MuttonChops
I did this mod this morning. Thanks  for  initiating it.

. . . All in all it was much simpler than I expected. I am always impressed with how many of our members post extremely detailed directions and information.

It's a true Honor to know Modification Master Dale has used one of my suggestions.  I've lost count of the number of Your Mods I've undertaken.

You don't need it now but if you have not found it there is in one of my reply posting in this thread a PDF file with very detailed instructions on how I did the installation . . . believe only a minor terminal label error has been found in the PDF (maybe why my reverse switch is backwards) . . .

I've used the fan on both exhaust and intake at speeds well below the 3-speed low and been very pleased with the results.  On last trip, two nights dry camping, ran the fan in the evening and all night and did not really notice any major battery voltage change between going to bed and getting up (checked while fan was off).

So glad you found the modification of interest.

Dalehelman

@MuttonChops@BrianZ
You guys are the best. Just a little over my head sometimes.

Toasted

Thanks @MuttonChops!  I installed mine today, and I'm very happy with the result.  I did a bit different install, I mounted my PWM controller by attaching it to the top of the fan housing rather than the plastic frame, then ran a pair of long jumpers over to the direction switch. 

I can use the direction switch as on/off - plus closing the hatch turns it off still - and I can have it either "blow" or "suck".  I've also installed an Aero-Flo cover so I can basically leave the hatch open all the time while camping with no worries about rain.

MuttonChops

Toasted said:

. . . mounted my PWM controller by attaching it to the top of the fan housing

Any pictures of your installation ?

rajamar

dhauf said:

rajamar said:

@dhauf
  
Thanks. I'm going to install my RioRand PWM in the next couple of days and use the the 3 way position so it can go in without any alteration. I'm also going to put a switch in front of the PWM so there is 0 phantom drain. I'm going to use the same switch I put in as a shut off for the Jensen:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KA4FM4Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That should work also, I took a look at that switch your going to use and it’s only rated for 2A. Just a suggestion you might want to get something a bit beefier as that fan is rated for 4A max.  Perhaps this might work https://www.amazon.com/Quentacy-Latching-Pushbutton-Switch-Waterproof/dp/B071H9KWL6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1535166126&sr=8-3&keywords=12v+latching+switch it’s rated for 5 amps.

Thanks for the input regarding rating. I didn't want to put a 3/4" hole for that switch - looked around on Amazon and found this: https://www.amazon.com/Rotary-Switch-SPST-2-Connections/dp/B00CCSLA4S? rated 5A @ 12V. Happened to be at Lowes and found the same switch for a few dollars less and it only requires a 3/8" hole. 

rajamar

Finished this mod a couple of days ago and want to thank MuttonChops for the .pdf and all who have shared their tips. I too used the Rio Rand PWM that BrianZ pointed out at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F839VNQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The wiring diagram that DeltaPop included above (which was in the reviews on the Rio Rand Amazon page) was extremely helpful. I am reposting it here because Mark (the reviewer) included a very important point - specifically, "I would add and others have noted the campers ground wire MUST go directly to the PWM controller, the motor must receive ground from the controller only, (thru reversing switch if you have) not any chassis ground." Honestly, I read that in the listing, but when the fan is hanging there from the ceiling and I'm trying to figure out how that pretty diagram maps out to the real world I would have missed that admonition were it not for the fact that I had it printed right there next to the diagram.


As I mentioned in a previous post I installed an on/off switch to completely shut off the PWM. I physically put it in the vacant corner. Electrically it is in the same position as the factory 3 speed switch. I also kept the reversing switch in the circuit and it all works great.



Like Billy and Dave I replaced the original speed control switch with the unmodified Rio Rand PWM and speed control knob, tacked down the corners with a couple of dabs of silicone sealant and was careful to put some insulation between the speed control knob metal housing and the soldered legs hanging down from the circuit board.  (A little leftover square of the red rubber that I and others used when moving the spare tire to the tongue.)



One final note: There is an approximately 2" screened hole directly above the factory 3 way speed controller - I assume it is for ventilation to the wire "heating element" resistors of the factory controller. There could be some concern about mounting the PWM controller in that location because if the fan roof vent is in the open position and there is rain there would be some splashing into the PWM controller. However, I had just completed putting on a Camco Aero-Flo roof vent cover so that was not a concern for me.

Thanks again to all!

dhauf

rajamar said:

dhauf said:

rajamar said:

@dhauf
  
Thanks. I'm going to install my RioRand PWM in the next couple of days and use the the 3 way position so it can go in without any alteration. I'm also going to put a switch in front of the PWM so there is 0 phantom drain. I'm going to use the same switch I put in as a shut off for the Jensen:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KA4FM4Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That should work also, I took a look at that switch your going to use and it’s only rated for 2A. Just a suggestion you might want to get something a bit beefier as that fan is rated for 4A max.  Perhaps this might work https://www.amazon.com/Quentacy-Latching-Pushbutton-Switch-Waterproof/dp/B071H9KWL6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1535166126&sr=8-3&keywords=12v+latching+switch it’s rated for 5 amps.

Thanks for the input regarding rating. I didn't want to put a 3/4" hole for that switch - looked around on Amazon and found this: https://www.amazon.com/Rotary-Switch-SPST-2-Connections/dp/B00CCSLA4S? rated 5A @ 12V. Happened to be at Lowes and found the same switch for a few dollars less and it only requires a 3/8" hole. 

Nice find!  Let us know how it all works out when you get it installed.

pthomas745

I have this mod teed up, fan apart, PWM in hand.  I can see where the PWM should fit after I trim it down, and where the switch will go through where the selector switch is now.  But, the wiring needs to get straight in my mind before I start cutting wires.

I am assuming (yes, I know, when you assume...) that I do not need to do anything with the fan reversal switch to make the PWM work.

From the fuse:   I am looking at TwoOwlsTalking's pictures, and those seem the simplest.  Are these the sort of jumper wires you used?  All I need to do is match the gauge?  Or can I use the correct gauge wire and crimp them in with the spade connectors already there?  Can I use 14 gauge wire?  (I have tons of it, but not 16AWG).

https://www.exploringarduino.com/parts/jumper-wires/

The two white wires are the ground wires coming from the fan reversal switch?  Also jumped across?

rajamar

pthomas745 said:

I have this mod teed up, fan apart, PWM in hand.  I can see where the PWM should fit after I trim it down, and where the switch will go through where the selector switch is now.  But, the wiring needs to get straight in my mind before I start cutting wires.

Just now had a chance to respond - hope you figured it out. I know how you felt. You don't need to trim the PWM.

pthomas745 said:

I am assuming (yes, I know, when you assume...) that I do not need to do anything with the fan reversal switch to make the PWM work.

No, but you have to make sure ground comes through PWM - see photos below

pthomas745 said:
From the fuse:   I am looking at TwoOwlsTalking's pictures, and those seem the simplest.  Are these the sort of jumper wires you used?  All I need to do is match the gauge?  Or can I use the correct gauge wire and crimp them in with the spade connectors already there?  Can I use 14 gauge wire?  (I have tons of it, but not 16AWG).

https://www.exploringarduino.com/parts/jumper-wires/

Those wires are for hobby breadboarding. Easiest to use crimped spade connectors (or butt connectors for run to on/off if desired - see picture in my previous post.) 14 AWG is fine. Bare wire into PWM terminals.

pthomas745 said:

The two white wires are the ground wires coming from the fan reversal switch?  Also jumped across?

Not sure what you are mentally picturing -- the white next to the red is going to motor. The white next to black is ground coming from trailer through the fan cover cutoff switch - it is the one that needs to be disconnected from rocker and extended to PWM Power - (negative) terminal. 

Don't know if you got it figured out. Maybe my responses above and following photos will spare others the confusion we both felt.



NOTE: When first posted the above photo INCORRECTLY stated "New white from rocker to PWM Power -"