@rajamar I wired this up this morning and the fan works, but only in one direction. Here is where I am:
At the rocker switch, the white wire is detached and goes to the Motor - terminal.
Where would I be messing up the reversing switch?
A picture of your rocker/reversal switch would be useful.
And, thanks again!
You want to leave the wires(White and the Red) hooked up the way they were to the rocker switch and the black wires going to the to the fan motor get hooked up the Motor portion of the PWM board. Next remove the old speed control and use those wires for the + and - power to the PWM board. I need to put my PWM board in my new camper. I will try and make a video or perhaps a better diagram with pictures for you.
@rajamar I wired this up this morning and the fan works, but only in one direction. Here is where I am:
At the rocker switch, the white wire is detached and goes to the Motor - terminal.
Where would I be messing up the reversing switch?
A picture of your rocker/reversal switch would be useful.
And, thanks again!
You're almost there. Here's what you need to do: 1) Reattach white wire from motor to terminal next to red. 2) Attach the new white wire (currently connected to white from motor) to the terminal next to black wire. The other end of the new white should go to PWM Motor - terminal 3) Make sure the ground/chassis white (next to black wire hanging from ceiling in your photo) goes to PWM Power - terminal. 4) Regarding black power wires - make connections as notated in my middle picture above.
Also note that I made a correction to the first picture notation - a white goes from rocker next to black to PWM Motor -
@rajamar thanks, that did work. At least until I was trying to wire it up and touched a bare wire to the red hot wire and blew out the fan's fuse!
After staring at those wires for a couple of days I knew the switch was the clue. I'll take some nicer photos of the wiring after I find the fuse and the proper spade connector I need. Thanks very much for your help. And I did learn how to test a fuse with my multimeter. Every little skill helps.
@rajamar thanks, that did work. At least until I was trying to wire it up and touched a bare wire to the red hot wire and blew out the fan's fuse!
After staring at those wires for a couple of days I knew the switch was the clue. I'll take some nicer photos of the wiring after I find the fuse and the proper spade connector I need. Thanks very much for your help. And I did learn how to test a fuse with my multimeter. Every little skill helps.
I bet you remember to turn your battery off if you have a switch or pull the main battery fuse the next time you do any electrical work!
This is a great looking mod and exploring adding to my new trailer.
I wanted to share that Rio Rand (appearing in prior pictures) has a PWM with both speed and a reversing switch. Not sure if the wiring is compatible with existing reversing switch though since I haven’t removed my fan - thought maybe someone who has done mod could take a look.
this PWM is only 3A max with 4A overcurrent (short circuit) protection. So possibly less max speed than stock. Maybe they have another with higher amps.
. . . Rio Rand (appearing in prior pictures) has a PWM with both speed and a reversing switch. Not sure if the wiring is compatible with existing reversing switch though since I haven’t removed my fan
For myself the PWM with reversing switch would be a no go for two reasons.
First, Keep It Simple rule. Using the FantasticFan switch requires less effort plus you don't need a built-in switch with one mounted for you already.
Second, Space. The PWM Reversing PCB Board is larger to allow room for the four additional wire terminals and PCB mounting space is already very tight.
'18 320 S, pitched axle, 3020HE; PNW based TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller Adventures: 54Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780
. . . Rio Rand (appearing in prior pictures) has a PWM with both speed and a reversing switch. Not sure if the wiring is compatible with existing reversing switch though since I haven’t removed my fan
For myself the PWM with reversing switch would be a no go for two reasons.
First, Keep It Simple rule. Using the FantasticFan switch requires less effort plus you don't need a built-in switch with one mounted for you already.
Second, Space. The PWM Reversing PCB Board is larger to allow room for the four additional wire terminals and PCB mounting space is already very tight.
+1 on both points above. There simply isn't enough room for a bigger board.
Ok so I just re-installed my PWM module in my new camper. So here are the pictures with the connections, hopefully this can help to answer more question. Please feel free to ask more questions if needed. I tried to make this as simple as possible. One thing I forgot to mention is use a bit of hot glue to secure your board in place.
@dhauf and @rajamar I made my fan work this morning after installing a new fuse and with your descriptions and pictures. I'm working on a text version of all the wiring but I'll wait til morning so I can eyeball everything again. Thanks very much for the help. Of course, now I have to stuff everything back in....
@dhauf and @rajamar I made my fan work this morning after installing a new fuse and with your descriptions and pictures. I'm working on a text version of all the wiring but I'll wait til morning so I can eyeball everything again. Thanks very much for the help. Of course, now I have to stuff everything back in....
Nice and great job! That’s always the challenge after the modification, stuffing the wires back in place and screwing it all back in.
Done! At least, buttoned up and working. I'm not electrically inclined, but the instructions here were enough to get me started, and with minor "mishaps" I got it done.
I blew two 10 Amp fuses before I really paid attention to the "insulate" or "add electrical tape" to the top of the speed switch.
Everything went back together fairly easily. Except for the "lock" mechanism. Unless it magically falls into the appropriate hole, how is that supposed to be re-connected? I'll need to go back in and silicone down the PWM board, and I'll look again. Maybe another set of hands to guide the lock post into the proper hole?
Anyway, thanks to everyone. I'll edit this later with some more pictures and descriptions.
. . . went back together fairly easily. Except for the "lock" mechanism. Unless it magically falls into the appropriate hole, how is that supposed to be re-connected?
Use a ladder so you can reach the Fan from the top outside, Align the "lock mechanism" in the hole, place a brick (or other heavy object) on top of the lock, once you have the screw started you can remove the brick.
At least that is what worked for me.
'18 320 S, pitched axle, 3020HE; PNW based TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller Adventures: 54Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780
. . . went back together fairly easily. Except for the "lock" mechanism. Unless it magically falls into the appropriate hole, how is that supposed to be re-connected?
Use a ladder so you can reach the Fan from the top outside, Align the "lock mechanism" in the hole, place a brick (or other heavy object) on top of the lock, once you have the screw started you can remove the brick.
At least that is what worked for me.
Actually I found it to be easier to take the screen off and then take the screw out of the fan blade and pull it off. Install the trim back in place then you can reach up and hold the locking mechanism down and screw it in. Pop the fan blade back in and pop the screen back on and done.
Everything went back together fairly easily. Except for the "lock" mechanism. Unless it magically falls into the appropriate hole, how is that supposed to be re-connected? I'll need to go back in and silicone down the PWM board, and I'll look again. Maybe another set of hands to guide the lock post into the proper hole?
Yeah - that's a real pain. When I find first removed the cover just to take a look and before I had all parts, I must have spent 15 minutes trying to get that shaft to line up with the hole.
Then, after giving it some thought and rounding up the parts to do the install, when it was time to put that lock knob back on I used an icepick-like probe to stick into the shaft and guide it into the housing hole as I pushed it up into place. (A stiff wire would work too.) Then with a 1\4" or so of the shaft sticking down I carefully and gently screwed the knob on (with a magnetic screwdriver holding the screw with the knob in place). Still a bit tricky, but much faster than blindly hoping the shaft was going to hit the hole by trial and (many) error(s).
. . . went back together fairly easily. Except for the "lock" mechanism. Unless it magically falls into the appropriate hole, how is that supposed to be re-connected?
Use a ladder so you can reach the Fan from the top outside, Align the "lock mechanism" in the hole, place a brick (or other heavy object) on top of the lock, once you have the screw started you can remove the brick.
At least that is what worked for me.
Actually I found it to be easier to take the screen off and then take the screw out of the fan blade and pull it off. Install the trim back in place then you can reach up and hold the locking mechanism down and screw it in. Pop the fane blade back in and pop the screen back on and done.
Great solution - I focused on getting the shaft to align with the hole and overlooked the further disassembly option.
I know this thread has been around for awhile, but I ordered the PWM from Amazon in an above link. Got it in yesterday and installed this morning. After completing the install and putting everything back together it worked first time. Think it is definitely going to be an improvement over the original 3 speed fan. Thanks for all the install info and pics from everyone. Another great mod from the forum.
You might want to get up there and measure and take some pictures of the space. On the "Rio Rand" controller from Amazon, I trimmed some of the extra circuit board off to make a better fit.
This is the one I installed. Roughly 2.3 inches square. The measurements are listed in one of the pictures.
Just wanted to share that I followed dhauf's instructions above (https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/comment/103063/#Comment_103063) and seemed to work great. I liked this method as I was able to keep the inline fuse and avoid drilling any additional holes. I put a multimeter on the feed and saw no amperage draw when the fan was not spinning, so using the direction toggle seems like a good enough on/off switch. I'd still rather have a Maxxair, but happy with the results for the low cost.
. . . still rather have a Maxxair, but happy with the results for the low cost.
Glad you found this modification useful. I also would rather have a Maxxair, but this mod has worked so well the Maxxair funds keep getting used by other T@B projects
'18 320 S, pitched axle, 3020HE; PNW based TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller Adventures: 54Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780
I did this mod to my 2015 tab from the previous post. I kept the reversing switch. I also added a small rocker switch to the AC input of the PWM controller, else it's always powered. The reversing fan switch only turns off the PWM output. I'm sure consumption is low but I preferred to make sure. Also fitted @Verna outside fan cover to allow running in the rain with lid raised.
@Tundra57 I put a multimeter on the feed to the controller when the fan wasn't moving and it registered 0 amps. I too thought it would be a constant drain, but unless I was using the multimeter incorrectly (when i started up the fan it began to register a draw), it seems like it's imperceptible. If anyone has tested this and I am incorrect, please let me know as I'd be inclined to add an on/off switch as well.
@dutsmiller I just don't like an off switch not removing power to the device. If it decided to fail you can't isolate it. Just me being careful. I just used a flat lighted auto switch which mounts with a drilled hole.
Yes, I'm a "pants and suspenders" guy and used that Hillman rotary switch that I picked up at Lowe's and only needed a 3\8" hole (photo on page 2 above}.
I have decided to attempt this modification. My trailer is about an hour from my home and half an hour from the closest hardware store so I'm trying to put together a list of everything that I'm going to need (parts and tools). I want to install the variable speed control + on off switch (to prevent parasitic draw).
Comments
1) Reattach white wire from motor to terminal next to red.
2) Attach the new white wire (currently connected to white from motor) to the terminal next to black wire. The other end of the new white should go to PWM Motor - terminal
3) Make sure the ground/chassis white (next to black wire hanging from ceiling in your photo) goes to PWM Power - terminal.
4) Regarding black power wires - make connections as notated in my middle picture above.
Also note that I made a correction to the first picture notation - a white goes from rocker next to black to PWM Motor -
Glad it all worked out OK.
I wanted to share that Rio Rand (appearing in prior pictures) has a PWM with both speed and a reversing switch. Not sure if the wiring is compatible with existing reversing switch though since I haven’t removed my fan - thought maybe someone who has done mod could take a look.
this PWM is only 3A max with 4A overcurrent (short circuit) protection. So possibly less max speed than stock. Maybe they have another with higher amps.
RioRand Upgraded Adjustable DC Motor Speed PWM Controller 10V 12V 24V 30V Reversing Switch 120W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HTZD9YI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_So9OBbYFJYHSQ
TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
Adventures: 54 Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780
TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
Adventures: 54 Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780
Then, after giving it some thought and rounding up the parts to do the install, when it was time to put that lock knob back on I used an icepick-like probe to stick into the shaft and guide it into the housing hole as I pushed it up into place. (A stiff wire would work too.) Then with a 1\4" or so of the shaft sticking down I carefully and gently screwed the knob on (with a magnetic screwdriver holding the screw with the knob in place). Still a bit tricky, but much faster than blindly hoping the shaft was going to hit the hole by trial and (many) error(s).
I also would rather have a Maxxair, but this mod has worked so well the Maxxair funds keep getting used by other T@B projects
TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
Adventures: 54 Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780
So far I have:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F839VNQ/?coliid=I2RXVUC9RA71GZ
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CCSLA4S/?coliid=I226K2Q6CG0SAG&colid=77LZJK08QRLQ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Wire (gauge? colors? terminals?)
Any special tools besides screwdrivers & pliers? A Dremel? Hot glue gun?
Thanks for your help.
@MuttonChops
@BrianZ
@rajamar
@Dalehelman
@pthomas745
2013 CS-S us@gi
2015 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner Double Cab