Attaching Suitcase Solar to T@B 400

dvgibson

Many of the places we like to camp up here in Maine do not have electrical and we want to add solar to our new T@B 400. I have been searching the forum but find most of the details on how others have done it apply to other models. The new T@B 400 is very buttoned up, I find it hard to get at the wiring. 

I've looked at the battery disconnect switch on the right side. That might be a place to break into the wires with a terminal block, maybe.  Maybe? 

Inside the battery box? Have to figure out how to get the cover off, seems to be lots of screws that might be hard to access. 

On the CB/Fuse panel? How do you get to the back of it? I see two (or three screws) on the back. Could I attach there?

Then were to mount the controller, and then put a port on the side of the trailer? Has anyone done that? I hesitate to start drilling holes into I know not what. 

Odd thought: What about using the TV connector? It is supposed to provide battery charging. (Mine provides some charging at idle, but not significant. But a good long drive at highway speed does? Others observe that? )

pthomas745

You need to get the cables from the controller to your battery, as directly as possible.  There isn't a way to access the battery from the outside of the trailer?

Verna

If you made a 7-pin adapter with an attached SAE type Zamp connector that plugs into your T@B 400’s 7-pin plug, you could plug it in there.  @rfuss928 had a recent post showing his version of this adapter. Click on Rfuss’ Name and you can see all of his recent posts. 

@pthomas745, the battery/batteries for the 400 are under the bed inside, without a connection outside, unless you order a Zamp-type connection with it. Since the tow vehicle charges the 400’s battery, you can access the the 400’s battery lead through the 7-pin connector. 

I have seen one 400 that the owner ordered a Zamp plug that is next to the cargo door on the passenger side of the 400.

pthomas745

Thanks, Verna.  That must be kind of awkward all the way around.....

Tabfortwo

Our 400 has oem solar on board and if your not in full sun all the time it won't maintain the battery. We are going to get a 200 watt portable unit to bring along to take care of this problem.

dvgibson

I think I am going to start with a 7 blade socket connected to the trailer cord.  Anyone have photos of where the factory puts the Zamp connector on the 400's? 

Ratkity

Since we are in summer, I'm going to see if my 100W suitcase panels I have set up in the garden can maintain the battery on my toy hauler (dead garden, good sun lol). It takes care of the battery during the winter with the battery switch flipped (no phantom power). There's just not a lot of strong daylight hours. I won't start tomorrow though. 90% chance of rain.

To all in wildfire areas, stay safe!!! You are important.

Verna

@dvgibson, the factory now only installs the Zamp connector on demand.  They prefer to install it close to the cargo door on the passenger side. 

jgram2

I’d have thought it best for the driver’s side to be close to the battery (batteries), with the controller somewhere close in proximity and your suitcase cable wouldn’t be underfoot in a high traffic area. Of course, I don’t understand batteries OR solar, it’s just my imagination working without facts again.

Verna

@jgram2, the battery and the battery switch on the 400 is towards the passenger side, under the bed, which is why nüCamp prefers to place the Zamp port there. 

jgram2

Thanks @Verna, in my mind, the batteries were under the bed on the other side.

Tabfortwo

My question is do I need a suitcase with a controller if I charge through the 7pin since I have solar built into the trailer already.

Verna

@Tabfortwo, in my mind, you would be going straight to the battery from the 7-pin, not going through your existing solar controller. 

Tabfortwo

So yes to the extra controller?

Verna

I have a controller permanently attached to my Zamp 200 watt suitcase, and I would not disconnect the Zamp controller,  if I had flexible solar panel on the T@B with their own controller. 

Tabfortwo

That's what I was thinking. We just need the boost when camping in the trees

pingnc

I took a simple approach and used a 10 awg extension cord.  Cut off the female end and attached lugs and connected to the battery terminals and leave it attached.  Have the male end attched to the controller output.  I plug it in ptior to connecting the panels.  I used the bulk of the wire to make an 'extension' cord using mc4 connectors and Y connectors so I can move the panels around at the end of my main cables.  I have two 100 watt panels that can then be used alone or in tandem.  Be sure to label the connectors as to pos and neg. This allows me to 'chase the sun' thoughout the day. Simple but it works for us.

Verna

@pingnc, how did you run the wire outside of the 400?

dvgibson

@pingnc, can you show us some photos? I would love to see more of what you did. 

rcuomo

Here’s how I hooked up my Renogy suitcase directly to the battery with ring terminals and a 10 gauge SAE plug. 

rcuomo

I cut off the battery clips and attached SAE plugs.  Very inexpensive modification.

This is a similar setup that I used to grab power for my back up camera.  The Renogy SAE plug/receptacle is 10 gauge and not shown here.

Verna

@rcuomo, @dvgibson has a T@B 400 with the batteries inside, under the bed. Personally, I wouldn't want to leave the cargo door open with the wires hanging out when I would want to connect my Zamp 200 Watt suitcase. Not would I want to close the cargo door, pinching the wires in the door. 

Verna

Photo of a factory installed Zamp plug or SAE connector on a T@B 400 next to the cargo door (enlarge the photo to see the decal that says “Solar Ready”):

rcuomo

Hi Verna, I just posted for the idea of using SAE connectors that can be mounted anywhere with a 3/4" hole.  I was thinking on the 400 I would mount the SAE or similar type of connector on the cargo door or adjacent to the door and snake the 10 gauge wire to the batteries.  On the 2018 400 that I inspected the batteries were close to the door and the connecting wire length would be short and readily accessible.  Just a thought. :-)

Verna

@rcuomo, see the photo I posted. 

rcuomo

First time I have seen a photo of the factory installed plug, makes sense to locate it there.  The wire loom is probably attached along the top wooden bed frame just above the batteries.  Should be a simple modification on 400s without the plug. 

Verna

Drilling that first hole can stop some owners for a while

I know this was a special order T@B 400, with special attention to proper placement of the necessary Zamp plugs. 

rcuomo

Yep drilling thru a new trailer can be intimidating but with a proper sized hole saw it should be a piece of cake. Adzel aside, the advantage of DIY is the ability to water seal the cutout, a boating best practice that I doubt the factory takes that step. 

dvgibson

@Verna Yep, I've been building and fixing and drilling holes my whole life and I am very hesitant to drill that first hole in our brand new T@B 400. Good to know that it could go there. I am wondering how thick the wall is? Seems to be about 2".  And I totally agree, I do not want to leave the locker doors open for critters to get in. 

Verna

The walls of the T@B 320’s were 1.5” thick, but I don’t have a cutout for the 400. I hate to “assume” it is the same as the 320 model. 

You can buy the Zamp port from Elsie in Parts at nüCamp, or you can them on Amazon. Be sure to measure 5 times, and drill once

@rcuomo the factory could show us all tricks for water sealing. Fact:  the female Amish and Mennonite workers are better than the men at caulking and quality control.  Pure fact. 

dvgibson

OK, here is what I see behind that location in the photo at @Verna posted. Not sure it quite jives. The battery leads come in a harness to the disconnect switch and then down and under the floor to the fuse panel (I presume.) There is also something plugged into a 120 V AC outlet (Fridge?) and the vent from the battery case going up.  And there are pocket screws in the plywood that would have to be avoided. 



(I hope this is not too huge, my apologies. )  Note the vent hose goes forward a bit. So a hole drilled directly below the vent might be in the wall there.