I thought there was a video or pictures somewhere showing the 400 production line with a view of the sidewalls. Maybe Paul the Air Force Guy on YouTube?
‘18 Tab 320S- mfg’d 4/17, acquired 9/17 Spare & bike rack on tongue, Renogy 100w suitcase connection, cargo & door nets, sway bar, wired rear camera, Norcold aux fan, front window protection, frame mounted sewer & water hose storage, Krieger 1500w inverter w/100Ah LIFePO4. ‘17 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E- 5000# tow cap, 600# tongue cap ‘20 Honda Pilot Elite- 5000# tow cap, 500# tongue cap Huntington LI
Btw, I got my new suitcase solar and jury rigged it up to connect through the TV connector and so far I am pleased. Works really well and will be easy to set up and break down. Photos when I get it cleaned up a bit.
My question is do I need a suitcase with a controller if I charge through the 7pin since I have solar built into the trailer already.
I agree with Verna--hooking up a solar panel to the 7-pin connector will bypass your built-in solar controller.
To use this arrangement you would need a second controller installed before the 7-pin connection. You would effectively have two separate solar chargers plugged into your battery, but in my limited knowledge I don't think this would cause a problem.
A simpler solution would be to install a dedicated connector for the suitcase and splice its leads directly into the existing leads on your built-in solar controller. You would now have two sets on panels wired in parallel and regulated by a single controller.
There are two major caveats here:
First, the built-in controller may not be large enough to handle the increased amps from the parallel panels, and might need to be upgraded. However, if you're already considering another controller anyway...
Second, we're back to the issue of how to get the leads into the camper without cutting a hole somewhere.
I agree with you that if you can't get out from under the trees (or don't want to) than having panels attached to the camper are of limited use. A suitcase requires a bit more management but--with enough extension cord--offers much greater flexibility.
My Renogy PWM controller is only rated for 10 amps. A 100W panel can put out up to ~6 amps, so I couldn't go much above 150W without a controller upgrade.
However, it sounds like the controller nuCamp is installing can handle the extra input. If you can figure out how to tap into it with your suitcase, you can spare yourself the expense of a second controller.
@scottg I was reluctant to put a definitive wattage because I remembered the PWMs can come in smaller sizes. My Bogart was 30A because I never thought I'd ever want to haul around more than 400W of panels (panels were bigger and heavier then). I believe the highest you want to go with a PWM is 30A and then it's suggested you go to MPPT.
Where'd that ClassA photo of all the 100s of solar panels around it go? hehehe. That was hysterical. We have a plethora of solar threads. It's somewhere in one of those.
2017 820R Retro Toy Hauler from 2015 Tabitha T@B from 2009 Reverse LG Teardrop (but a T@Bluver at heart)
Very nice!!! Also a great idea for the kill switch. I know people unplug and plug in the television, but I think a kill switch doesn't put any stress on the connections.
2017 820R Retro Toy Hauler from 2015 Tabitha T@B from 2009 Reverse LG Teardrop (but a T@Bluver at heart)
@Tabfortwo: can you give us details on how you put in that kill switch? I think the AV system is sucking about 300 WH a day, and I do not use it. (No reception any place I have been so far.) What screws do you remove to get to it? I see a number of possibilities.
It's been reported here that USB jacks also consume a little power, even when nothing is plugged into them.
I can't confirm this personally, and I don't know how much power we are talking about. I only have one jack in my 2015, but I think more may have been added in later models.
For the solar controller I use the bluetooth connected app for a phone or tablet to monitor the battery and solar panel. This is with factory installed solar. Information on getting the app is in the manual for the controller.
Happy Trails, Phil & Anita - Driftless: 2018 T@B 400/2015 Ford Explorer
Comments
Spare & bike rack on tongue, Renogy 100w suitcase connection, cargo & door nets, sway bar, wired rear camera, Norcold aux fan, front window protection, frame mounted sewer & water hose storage, Krieger 1500w inverter w/100Ah LIFePO4.
‘17 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E- 5000# tow cap, 600# tongue cap
‘20 Honda Pilot Elite- 5000# tow cap, 500# tongue cap
Huntington LI
https://youtu.be/lBDgzCYjxZM
Spare & bike rack on tongue, Renogy 100w suitcase connection, cargo & door nets, sway bar, wired rear camera, Norcold aux fan, front window protection, frame mounted sewer & water hose storage, Krieger 1500w inverter w/100Ah LIFePO4.
‘17 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E- 5000# tow cap, 600# tongue cap
‘20 Honda Pilot Elite- 5000# tow cap, 500# tongue cap
Huntington LI
Where'd that ClassA photo of all the 100s of solar panels around it go? hehehe. That was hysterical. We have a plethora of solar threads. It's somewhere in one of those.
Phil & Anita - Driftless: 2018 T@B 400/2015 Ford Explorer