Our portable solar suitcase setup

Photomom

ChanW said:

I missed that detail! Thanks @Photomom

To finish the subject...

About my question regarding the water resistance of the Victron controller, I received a reply from the dealer I purchased from, 'Remote Power Source' (Amazon).

They said:

They have an IP43 rating:
" protected against sprays of water from any direction " 
(Not submersible)

Well, I know the metal tub is not waterproof. The whole back side is open and water does get in there. The bottom is solid and I drilled holes in mine to prevent standing water.

ScottG

If you are really worried about exposure, another alternative is to outfit your controller with quick-connect pigtails. It can be quickly deployed in the tub when needed in camp, but otherwise stays safely stashed out of the way and the elements.

A secondary advantage is retaining portability. With the right connectors and cables, a suitcase setup can still be used in a stand-alone manner.

Photomom

ScottG said:

If you are really worried about exposure, another alternative is to outfit your controller with quick-connect pigtails. It can be quickly deployed in the tub when needed in camp, but otherwise stays safely stashed out of the way and the elements.

A secondary advantage is retaining portability. With the right connectors and cables, a suitcase setup can still be used in a stand-alone manner.

I was thinking of connecting the wires from the Zamp port to the solar input using the screw terminals but will probably use some type of quick release connectors there. Thanks for the idea. We’ll be using solar on less than 25% of our trips so no need to have it in there all the time. Instead of bolting it in place I’ll use the strong mounting strips like the ones that came with my ezpass.

pthomas745

Another reason to keep your controller under wraps is, ironically,  damage to the housings due to sun exposure.  My first cheap PWM purchased 7 years ago looks pretty battered due to the sun.  All the little plastic logos and decals are twisted or gone.  Still works, though!  I can't see how a device with electrical wires in large holes can be safe in any manner near water.

@ScottG could you describe your "quick connect pigtails?"  I'm still fiddling with screwdrivers when I get to a campsite and am setting up the controller and the panels, etc.  I leave the Zamp connector attached to the controller, but would love to have a plug and play way to connect the panels.

ScottG

@pthomas745, if you look about halfway down the 2nd page of this discussion you'll find a description and photos of how I modified my Renogy suitcase. I've used this set-up for two seasons now and it works great.

Creative types could probably do something similar with a single 4-pin connector to reduce some of the futzing with MC4s, but in retrospect I haven't found it to be a big deal.

pthomas745

Thanks, Scott.  After reading that thread and a few others today I think I'll try some Anderson connectors.  I find the MC4 a bit frustrating to deal with also.

Hobbit_house1

Great setup and instructions! Did the exact setup - one question- what 6v batteries did you use and were there any issues fitting them in the tub? How did you attach them? Did you get a new battery case?

dragonsdofly

@Hobbit_house1, welcome to the forum.

BrianZ

Here's my $.02 worth of follow up on some of the recently expressed concerns..

Regarding why might one put a Victron solar controller inside a box, I can think of a few.  The IP43 rating indicates it's not protected against dust or splashed water, so if used in the tub with an open bottom while traveling, as we have done, then it's more vulnerable to damage to the electronics.  The specs also list an IP22 rating for the connection area, which indicates it's not protected from splashes, sprays, or objects smaller than a finger, like wires & tools.  You wouldn't want to leave battery terminals exposed to being shorted and this is another set of them.  Moreover, the installation instructions say:

● The battery and PV connections must guarded against inadvertent contact (e.g. install in an enclosure or install the optional WireBox).

Regarding the minimum voltage issue, the manual says:

● The controller will operate only if the PV voltage exceeds battery voltage (Vbat).

● PV voltage must exceed Vbat + 5V for the controller to start. Thereafter minimum PV 

voltage is Vbat + 1V.

I've also realized that my Anderson connectors for the pigtails between the controller & battery terminals are not waterproof.  I've got the rubber caps for keeping dirt out while disconnected, but they have limited use & sometimes come loose.  I'm planning to replace those with a pair of these boots which protects when either connected & disconnected..
https://powerwerx.com/anderson-36054p2-sb50-environmental-boot-load
You have to order two different boots to cover a connecting pair, a source side & load side boot.

I'm also thinking about gluing some filter material over the vent holes I drilled in my controller box, for keeping dust out.

ChanW

@BrianZ, it's very interesting, that the response I received from the dealer was inaccurate, because they had abbreviated their quoted IP spec.

I assumed they meant splashes from any direction, but as you stated, that's not what the spec says, even though it's what they suggested in their response.

Goes to show, one should always go with multiple sources for info ! Oh brother.

Thanks for pointing that out.

BrianZ

I have replaced the red & black plastic storage caps that covered the Anderson connectors at the ends of our SCC battery cables, as mentioned in my last comment..

Here's the new "Source" boot installed on the end of the battery cable coming from the SCC box, replacing the red one that frequently fell off.  

This new rubber boot is excellent - very tight fitting & protects the Anderson connector both during use & in storage.

This shows how the "Load" boot, to be installed on the battery pigtail mates inside the Source boot & the caps mate as well, so stay clean during use. It's perfect for my installation, since this cable pair hangs down under the box, so the upper boot overlaps the lower one for good water protection & seals very snugly.  

The conical rubber tubes that fit over the cables are marked for where to trim for your cable size, so I trimmed about a quarter inch off at the 10AWG mark.  I didn't want to disturb my cable connections to to the SCC, so I depressed the spring clip inside the Anderson connector to release the cable & pushed it out, then put the cables into the boot, replaced the cables inside the connector & slid the boot up over the connector. 
(Caution! 12V & plenty of amps in those battery cable ends, so protect at least the positive end with electrical tape if removing them from the connector.)
The boot is a tight fit, so takes a little work, but in this case makes for a nice result.
Very happy with this product.
 

Sharon_is_SAM

Sweet!  There is life after that awful MC4 connector afterall!

BrianZ

I don't know that these booted Anderson connectors would offer the same IP level of waterproofing that the MC4 connectors have, but it's a lot better than what it was before without them.  We're still using the MC4 connectors for the solar panel cables

ChanW

I finally got all the parts needed, and we're now getting ''free" electricity! Hooray! Pretty darn cool! Excited!

But, after having read so many negative comments about MC-4 connectors, I dreaded having to fumble with them... But then the first I dealt with the connectors were Renogy brand, and they were fine - easy to take apart - no problem.

Then our WindyNation extension cables arrived, and I can now see why people grumble over the MC-4 connectors! The WindyNation connectors are much more of a pain to disconnect...

I'm tempted to replace the connectors on those cables with the Renogy ends.

My little observation, is all... 

Sharon_is_SAM said:

Sweet!  There is life after that awful MC4 connector afterall!

pthomas745

I wound up hitting the connectors a bit with a Dremel tool and it helped on the Windy Nation and Renogy cables.  What astounds me is the plastic tools they sell as a "disconnecting tool."  Completely worthless.  After buying a crimping tool/stripping tool, to discover the "disconnecting tool" looks like something from a cereal box was quite a comedown.

BrianZ

I found the disconnecting tool works better than trying to pinch the MC4 connectors with your fingers, though it's not obvious at first how to apply it.

jkjenn

BrianZ said:

I found the disconnecting tool works better than trying to pinch the MC4 connectors with your fingers, though it's not obvious at first how to apply it.

Yes. The disconnecting tool for the win! 

BrianZ

This is from Renogy's MC4 tool manual on Amazon & how I use it..  Worked fine for me on both Renogy & Windy Nation Cables, and I'd guess they get easier with age (age of the cable that is! 😉 ).

I hold the the tool against cable in one hand with thumb pressing down on tool over pins as shown in (2), then pull apart with other hand.

ScottG

My only complaint with the MC4s is having to connect and disconnect four separate wires. I used the Renogy brand and mine do disconnect pretty easily with just fingers. No problems with connectivity over two seasons, either--though I did use a professional ratcheting crimper to assemble them.

Ok, I did have mud daubers build a nest in one last spring, but I can't really blame the connector for that...  :-)

BrianZ

Ok, here's an update regarding Intrusion Protection (IP) Rating for MC4 connectors versus the Anderson with Environmental Boots..

Renogy MC4:  IP67
Anderson Boots:  IP64

So, both have the same highest level of dust protection (6), but for water intrusion, the MC4 is rated higher for submersion in water up to 30 minutes, versus Anderson Boots are resistant to splashing/spraying of water from any direction, but not immersion or powerful jets of water.  
For our use inside the tub & not laying on the ground, I think we should be fine with the Anderson boots, even while traveling in rain.

Photomom

BrianZ said:

I have replaced the red & black plastic storage caps that covered the Anderson connectors at the ends of our SCC battery cables, as mentioned in my last comment..

Here's the new "Source" boot installed on the end of the battery cable coming from the SCC box, replacing the red one that frequently fell off.  

This new rubber boot is excellent - very tight fitting & protects the Anderson connector both during use & in storage.

This shows how the "Load" boot, to be installed on the battery pigtail mates inside the Source boot & the caps mate as well, so stay clean during use. It's perfect for my installation, since this cable pair hangs down under the box, so the upper boot overlaps the lower one for good water protection & seals very snugly.  

The conical rubber tubes that fit over the cables are marked for where to trim for your cable size, so I trimmed about a quarter inch off at the 10AWG mark.  I didn't want to disturb my cable connections to to the SCC, so I depressed the spring clip inside the Anderson connector to release the cable & pushed it out, then put the cables into the boot, replaced the cables inside the connector & slid the boot up over the connector. 
(Caution! 12V & plenty of amps in those battery cable ends, so protect at least the positive end with electrical tape if removing them from the connector.)
The boot is a tight fit, so takes a little work, but in this case makes for a nice result.
Very happy with this product.
 

Brian, I'm getting ready to order stuff for installing my solar controller. I plan to mount it inside the metal tub using a type of hook and loop fastener so it can be removed when it isn't being used. I am planning to use the Anderson SB50 connectors on both the wires going to the battery and the wires going to the Zamp port (my solar panel will plug into the Zamp port.

I understand that the SB50 connectors are genderless but are keyed by color, so I'll use different colors for the battery cable and the Zamp port cable.

My question is about the boots. I think I only need one for the connector attached to the battery and one for the connector attached to the Zamp port, since those will stay with the trailer at all times. If I do that, is there any need to be concerned with whether I use "source" or "load" side boots since I'd just be using them to cover the terminals when the charge controller isn't being used. The SB50 connectors attached to the charge controller would just get normal (i.e. cheaper) dust covers. Does this make sense, or should I just go with the environmental boots all around while I'm doing it?

And if I put the boots on all the SB50 connectors, how do I determine which is  source and which is load? To my way of thinking the solar panel is the ultimate source and the battery is the load in this scenario. Or, does it truly not matter as long as they mate up?

BrianZ

Yeah, I think what you said makes sense, @Photomom.  Just depends on what you think your level of exposure will be, and if limited while in use & controller cables are protected while in storage, then just two in the tub cables might be all you need.  I would use the load ones for those, only because the boot fits snug against the connector, with cap going on the outside; whereas the source one has a sleeve with a gap for the cap to fit inside (between connector & sleeve), so no point in having a gap that might collect dirt while in use.  You're right that it doesn't matter which connector uses a source versus load boot, as long as they can mate where needed.  I guess they had to name them something to distinguish one from the other, at least for ordering.