Where/How to replace chains that attach t@b to car

geekmama

The chains that attach the trailer to my car dragged on the ground for too long and were damaged. I called uHaul and a place that attaches bike racks, but neither do this. It's actually a pretty easy process, but I can't do it myself because I need a chain cutter and then maybe a solder or however they attach the chains.

Has anyone ever had this done and what kind of place was it? Also, if it's easier I can buy a piece of equipment or two and do it myself.

Marceline

geekmama said:

The chains that attach the trailer to my car dragged on the ground for too long and were damaged. I called uHaul and a place that attaches bike racks, but neither do this. It's actually a pretty easy process, but I can't do it myself because I need a chain cutter and then maybe a solder or however they attach the chains.

Has anyone ever had this done and what kind of place was it? Also, if it's easier I can buy a piece of equipment or two and do it myself.

Look for a local utility trailer service/parts store. When you get your new chains make sure they never, ever drag. Not only is it bad for the chains, sparks from dragging chains can set off wildfires. 

pthomas745

Are your chains bolted to your trailer's frame?  They should be fairly easy to replace, just unbolt them.  (My 2017 are bolted.)

Someone a few weeks ago posted this file from the Purdue University Extension about how to Keep Your Trailer Connected.  Starting on Page 42, the chapter on safety chains will tell you everything to look for when replacing your chain:  proper chain sizes, connectors, and bolts.  Plenty of pictures and descriptions of how not to do it.  Actually, the whole book is entertaining.

https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/ppp/ppp-92.pdf

And, please, anyone who reads this:  don't let your safety chains drag. 

Verna

@geekmama, I replaced mine with 5,000 lb rated coiled cables. I unbolted the old ones from the tongue, and I used those links that have the screwable link on them (maybe someone knows the name. I could still cross the chain, and they never touched the ground. Look on Amazon, for instance, for coiled safety chains.

geekmama

Thanks all for the information. I'm ordering the coiled safety cables and I downloaded the pdf instructions to follow when they get here.

Ratkity

Please check the grade 8 bolt on your camper. Some of them have come loose (mine included - early 2015). I was surprised. Locktite to the rescue!

Verna

@Ratkity, there were holes in my hitch and I just put the screwable links through the holes and attached the chains through them. The links had either 2,000 or 5,000 lb limits on them....it’s been 3 years and I’m allowed to forget a few details, right?!!

jgram2

@Ratkity I’ll check that there grade 8 bolt if you’ll tell me where it is?

Ratkity

jgram2 said:

@Ratkity I’ll check that there grade 8 bolt if you’ll tell me where it is?

It's on the underside of trailer coupler where the chains attach. Some people's chains are welded there. 

Ratkity

Verna said:

@Ratkity, there were holes in my hitch and I just put the screwable links through the holes and attached the chains through them. The links had either 2,000 or 5,000 lb limits on them....it’s been 3 years and I’m allowed to forget a few details, right?!!

Those are just fine. I don't understand? The tongue is one tenth of that. It just has to cradle the tongue while the emergency brake pull stops the trailer, right? Or do I have that wrong?

Verna

@Ratkity, you are correct!  I just couldn’t remember the weight limit on the links, and I have so much going on right now that I can be forgetful!

MuttonChops

Ratkity said:

. . . The tongue is one tenth of that.

It just has to cradle the tongue while the emergency brake pull stops the trailer, right?

Or do I have that wrong?

Based on the Purdue University Guide (linked in an above post) @Ratkity assumption that the safety chains only need to handle the tongue weight is incorrect.

Some Highlights:

 - -  At a minimum, the combined breaking strength of your safety chains must be equal to the weight of the load the truck is towing. To calculate this value, add the breaking strength of each chain together.

 - -  Safety chains must be able to withstand the sudden jerk that occurs when a trailer falls away from a towing unit. That jerk places tremendous tensile and shear stress on chains, hooks, and attachment points such as bolts or welds. You need to make sure that the safety chain you use is strong enough to withstand the initial shock without snapping a link, breaking a hook, or shearing a bolt.

 - -  If you have chains that are too long, use an intermediate support. Do not shorten a chain by twisting it. Most manufacturers even provide warnings against twisting chains. That’s because a chain’s breaking rating is determined in a straight-line pull. When you twist chains, you place additional stresses on the chain that can alter how the chain breaks — in effect, you’ve changed its breaking strength.

     I've actually forgotten this and have been twisting.  Time to break a bad habit so I've ordered one of the 'Fastway Chain-up' aids:

 

Will give it a try on next outing.

jgram2

We’ve been dutifully crossing our chains before attaching them to the TV for 2 years.

Sharon_is_SAM

Thank you @MuttonChops.  I remembered that you should never twist, but not the why.  

That Purdue University guide that Larry shared with us just keeps on giving.  Every time I peruse it, I think of him.

ChanW

Also, I'm pretty sure I read that the quick-links that are available at the hardware store don't have the same rating as an equivalent size repair-link, so be sure to check that too...

MuttonChops said:

Ratkity said:

. . . The tongue is one tenth of that.

It just has to cradle the tongue while the emergency brake pull stops the trailer, right?

Or do I have that wrong?

Based on the Purdue University Guide (linked in an above post) @Ratkity assumption that the safety chains only need to handle the tongue weight is incorrect.

Some Highlights:

 - -  At a minimum, the combined breaking strength of your safety chains must be equal to the weight of the load the truck is towing. To calculate this value, add the breaking strength of each chain together.

 - -  Safety chains must be able to withstand the sudden jerk that occurs when a trailer falls away from a towing unit. That jerk places tremendous tensile and shear stress on chains, hooks, and attachment points such as bolts or welds. You need to make sure that the safety chain you use is strong enough to withstand the initial shock without snapping a link, breaking a hook, or shearing a bolt.

 - -  If you have chains that are too long, use an intermediate support. Do not shorten a chain by twisting it. Most manufacturers even provide warnings against twisting chains. That’s because a chain’s breaking rating is determined in a straight-line pull. When you twist chains, you place additional stresses on the chain that can alter how the chain breaks — in effect, you’ve changed its breaking strength.

     I've actually forgotten this and have been twisting.  Time to break a bad habit so I've ordered one of the 'Fastway Chain-up' aids:

 

Will give it a try on next outing.

Dalehelman

If your chains are to long this is the proper way to adjust the length. If you are lucky enough to have a hitch with the large chain retaining eyes. No the picture is not upside the Jeep logo is sorry.

gymcoachdon

So, I push the hook through the holes on my hitch, (front to back) then slide them through until they are the correct length before attaching the chain to itself.  (boy, that doesn't make sense when I read it)  I'm not sure why you would ever have the chain too long, or need a device or to twist them to alter the length.  Maybe I am the one that is confused...

MuttonChops

@Dalehelman ;  

Nice idea, but then Chain Hooks on my T@B factory supplied safety chains are far larger then the receiver connection eye on my vehicle.

Had thought about unbolting and shortening my chains but will try the Fastway Chain-up first . . . far less work.

You've added a Chain Repair, Lap Link, to your chains.  That lap link is most likely rated at 25% of the actual chain load rating when both are the same diameter.  If it's 1,200#  you have 2,400# strength for a loaded T@B that could be very near 2,900#. when you could be thinking you have two 5,000# safety chains.

Not ideal.

Dalehelman

Factory safety chains tend to be on the long side. If they are to short for your particular TV and trailer combination then they are worthless. 

Dalehelman

@MuttonChops
You miss nothing. That chain was just a scrap I put together for the demonstration photo

gymcoachdon

Apparently I was typing while Dale was posting pictures of what i was describing.  I didn't realize some of the eyes aren't large enough to pass the hooks through.  That would create a problem!

Marceline

MuttonChops said:

     I've actually forgotten this and have been twisting.  Time to break a bad habit so I've ordered one of the 'Fastway Chain-up' aids:

 

Will give it a try on next outing.

That's a neat little accessory. Electrical tape or a zip tie works fine too. 

Sharon_is_SAM

@Dalehelman, when we received our Tab last year, we took your advice about the too long chains and connect them as shown above.  However, someone on the forum recently commented that chains connected in that manner were not permitted in her state (? Colorado).  Does anyone else know if this is taboo in other states?

Sharon_is_SAM

Our minivan hitch probably has the least clearance of all the TVs out there.  We use one of those coated, bendable wires to keep the chains from hanging too low.  It works well and it is a bright color that reminds us to use it.

ScottG

My friend crosses the chains under, then back up over the tongue so there is sufficient slack but no chance of dragging. Unusual, but I can't see why this would be ill advised for any reason. If anything, the double-crossing will likely grip the tongue a little tighter in the event of a breakaway.

Since my chains were bolted on, I opted to just undo them and rebolt them a few links closer to the front. IIRC, I did have to use a slightly longer hardened bolt, but I then used the original bolt to secure the free end in a different hole. Ergo, my chains are effectively bolted in two places, and I can easily lengthen them again if needed.

(On a related note, while twisting chains is certainly not recommended, I suspect those bolted anchor points would give way long before even a twisted chain would break.)

Not advocating one approach or another, just informing of different options. YMMV.

Ratkity

I was thinking the chains just had to hold tongue weight if it hops off at low speed and didn't think about regular driving. They definitely need to withstand the initial jerk if the vehicle separates. My bad. My links are rated for 8000# because the last set of chains were too short. My current ones are perfect.

Storytime:
I picked up the toy hauler and happily left the dealership after a wonderful double walk-thru and fun time at the dealer because it was right before Xmas and no one else was in the dealership except employees. 

So I stop at a grocery store to put on extension mirrors (mid-sized truck at the time). Quick check of everything - focused on turn signals and lights, and making sure the propane was turned off. People must have thought I was a nutcase because I was backing up and going to other parking spaces in the back of the big lot and backing up again. Fast forward to the gas station where I learned not to take a quick right turn because the trailer turns at the same time. Ooops. Almost took out a pillion. Well, after getting gasoline and trying to look nonchalant, I glanced at the chains. I about wet myself. I had two perfectly good 8000# rated links on my hitch and the tech put the emergency brake controller cable on a keychain carabiner. That thing wouldn't be strong enough to handle a strong wind! Quickly corrected and even unwound it from the chains. Then I wondered if the tech was into the eggnog too early in the morning and then where was my brain when I did that initial check with the lights! Ugh. All ended well. Lesson learned. Never assume. Check everything.

Dalehelman

I to have shortened my chains for convenience. Keep in mind if you do and need to tow your trailer with a different vehicle your chains may be to short.

Vikings

Very helpful folks.  Thank you all for info and alternatives. 
I swear I have had, when renting trailers, Uhaul folks twist chains to correct length...presume their risk management folks have not read the Purdue U guide. 

Mouseketab

My chains have this huge spring loaded snap hook on the end, not a simple S hook. There is no way I could fit it through my chain connectors on the truck.