Reminder notes posted! One inside for Alde bypass, and another more important warning for me over the outside city water port - If I were to hook up water before reconnecting my pump lines, it would be a real disaster, as I'd be pouring water into the space under the water pump. I guess I need to get a plug that I can leave screwed into the outlet line of the water pump, just in case.
EDIT: Done! I bought some piece of mind for only $1.16!
-Brian in Chester, Virginia TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6) RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
Okay, another newbie here. I've read everything here about winterizing; however, my new 2019 Boondock in nestled warmly in a climate controlled storage facility here in Reno, NV where the temps have been dropping into the low 20's every night. Daytime temps are in the 60's. I want to bring her home for a couple of days to prep for a trip to Yosemite next week, and I'm worried about her freezing while she's sitting here. It doesn't seem to make sense to winterize her for two days and then de-winterizing her for the trip. Can I get away with putting an electric heater in her for those two nights, or should I run the Alde, or should I go ahead and bite the bullet and winterize her?
The temps in Yosemite for next week are predictedl be mid 60’s during the day and above freezing at night. I’m not anticipating any problems while we’re there, but worried about the couple of days we’ll loading the trailer. Here in Reno we’re going through a period of freezing nights in the 20’s. We’re also planning to attend Tabazona, and will have the same issue then. How to keep the trailer from freezing a pipe those couple of days before departure while we’re loading her up.
Well, the safest thing to do is winterize. I can tell you that we ran into the same problem back in March in SW Utah. There were intermittent periods of freezing overnight. We rationalized that a large amount of water takes time to freeze and all the plumbing in our CSS is exposed to heat, so no worries. But, the outlet from the fresh water tank to the pump, the black and gray tanks/valves and the shower trap are not heated. So, we kept the Alde heat going, emptied the gray and black tanks and put antifreeze down the shower trap and gray abd black tanks gate valves. We had no problems.
Sharon. I have a new 2019 TAB 320S Boondock. This is my valve set up as it was when I picked the unit up. Photo attached. It doesn't match anything I have seen posted. I did lift the yellow lever up and think I drained the Alde hot water tank, but I am not sure what to do with the 2 red and 2 blue lines. Thanks.
@vorticity, I've labelled the valves for you in this copy of your photo, including the expected Alde hot & cold shutoff valves that aren't shown..
The Alde valves are used to bypass the Alde when filling lines with fluids to be kept out of the Alde (e.g., bleach). The drains are for draining & winterizing. I didn't label the yellow Alde drain valve which appears to be in the draining position (straight up).
-Brian in Chester, Virginia TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6) RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
@BrianZ, I have a little *black* drain plug just like that for my 36 gal fresh water tank (toy hauler). I have to use a drill pump to drain it fast if I forget to take the plug out while I drive home. I am afraid I'm going to lose that silly little plug!! As a matter of fact. I think I did right after I bought the toy hauler. I can't remember if I bought a 2nd replacement. Oiy.
2017 820R Retro Toy Hauler from 2015 Tabitha T@B from 2009 Reverse LG Teardrop (but a T@Bluver at heart)
Yeah, @Ratkity, so then you understand why I put the caribiner & rings on there. Caribiner can be removed temporarily for unscrewing, then reattached so I don't lose it. Hope it won't rattle around too much when using the pump though. 36g - that's a lot! I bought a drill pump in case I ever need to add to our fresh water tank, but haven't used it yet. Works pretty fast though.
-Brian in Chester, Virginia TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6) RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
I bought a cheap drill pump and it was so slloooowwww. And then, it got a wee warm and stopped working. So I found one on Amazon with decent reviews. Works better with the 20V hammer drill. Took 2 batteries to drain the tank. Ughh! I should have NOT left water in the tank. Lesson learned!
2017 820R Retro Toy Hauler from 2015 Tabitha T@B from 2009 Reverse LG Teardrop (but a T@Bluver at heart)
@vorticity, step five under the “Drain” instructions call for opening the hot and cold water drain valves to drain the plumbing pipes as Brian has labeled. Those drains go through the floor so they are easy to recognize.
Thanks, Sharon. I’m going to go ahead and do the smart thing and winterize. Last thing I want to do is break our brand new home away from home. Safe travels -Doc.
@vorticity, I've labelled the valves for you in this copy of your photo, including the expected Alde hot & cold shutoff valves that aren't shown..
The Alde valves are used to bypass the Alde when filling lines with fluids to be kept out of the Alde (e.g., bleach). The drains are for draining & winterizing. I didn't label the yellow Alde drain valve which appears to be in the draining position (straight up).
I am only going to blow out my lines. I am not going to fill them with anti-freeze, so just to be sure I open the drains, but leave the bypasses and shutoffs closed?? Thanks Rick
Correct. Open the hot and cold water drains and drain to gravity, then close. Then, pressurize with everything closed and open up each outlet one at a time to blow out the lines. I did not suggest that you put antifreeze in your entire plumbing, but you should protect your traps, gray and black tank gate valves.
(Note: I have posted this warning on other posts concerning winterizing the T@B.)
Normally I use the antifreeze method to winterize as I did this year again. However, last year after we moved to Alaska and were occupied with getting settled I opted for the "quick and easy" blow-out method. When I started to de-winterize this spring I got the unpleasant surprise of water spewing out of the toilet valve!
If you use the "blow-out" method you must be very sure you blow ALL the water out of that valve. The link below contains the thread with my whole story of what happened, what the RV parts dealer told me and how I had to replace the valve.
Wow, that blowout winterizing guide was a lifesaver for me; my first time on our 2018 320S Boondock. It dawned on me that to de-winterize in the spring there's nothing I need to do. I simply add fresh water and go. The little bit of antifreeze I used is sitting, or drains, to the grey and black tanks and will be gone the first time I drain them. Am I right or missing something super important?
Adventure Canadian Style
2018 Tab320s Boondock Edition, 2018 Toyota Forerunner TRD
@digitaldean, that is correct. However, you still will want to sanitize your fresh tank, and if you use bleach, you will need to bypass your Alde. Not a big deal. This will help:
@vorticity, I've labelled the valves for you in this copy of your photo, including the expected Alde hot & cold shutoff valves that aren't shown..
The Alde valves are used to bypass the Alde when filling lines with fluids to be kept out of the Alde (e.g., bleach). The drains are for draining & winterizing. I didn't label the yellow Alde drain valve which appears to be in the draining position (straight up).
I have a 2020 320, and this photo looks like my setup... the "2016 Models with Alde Heaters" Winterizing a T@B directions show a cold water valve going to the mixing valve AND a Cold Water Shutoff valve to the Alde Heater. It seems to me that somewhere between 2016 and 2020 the Cold Water Shutoff valve to Alde Heater was eliminated, since the Alde cold water supply is now past the supply to the mixing valve? do I hear a "yes!!!???" Also, apparently no need to leave the Alde Safety valve open, but should I drain it? and thanks, as ever...
Yanni Lazarus 2020 T@B320S, 2018 RAV4 Adventure, Central CT
@YanniLazarus - the Alde cold water shut off valve is still present (labeled above), but the cold water shut off to the mixing valve was redundant and eliminated prior to the 2017 models. The cold water flows to the Alde and has a limb that flows to the mixing valve. There is a check valve on the limb that feeds the Alde so water entering the Alde can not backflow to cold water entering the mixing valve.
? Are you asking what to drain for Winterizing? You can drain the Alde tank using the yellow Safety/Drain valve and open the hot and cold shutoff valves to drain the plumbing. A little tongue up helps.
How do I add AF to the fresh water tank? 2017 320 CS-S; got everything else blown out and AF added, but can't figure this out even when using 8/27/19 version 3 PDF.
@mmcneil72 There is no need to put AF in the water tank. Just lower the tongue a bit and drain out as much as you can. I leave my fresh water drain open in the winter. Even if there is a tiny bit left in the tank at it freezes it won’t hurt anything. Just don’t leave a full tank all winter long and you will be good to go. I’ve done this every season so far with no issues.
Thanx dhauf. Do you leave the fresh water drain valve open? 8/27/19 version 3 PDF seemed to recommend this, but a little leery. Less of a problem here in Trinidad CO (12 m. north of NM border) but every winter is different.
Comments
One inside for Alde bypass, and another more important warning for me over the outside city water port - If I were to hook up water before reconnecting my pump lines, it would be a real disaster, as I'd be pouring water into the space under the water pump. I guess I need to get a plug that I can leave screwed into the outlet line of the water pump, just in case.
EDIT:
Done! I bought some piece of mind for only $1.16!
TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6)
RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
2019 T@B Boondock Edge
2019 T@B Boondock Edge
TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6)
RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
The Alde valves are used to bypass the Alde when filling lines with fluids to be kept out of the Alde (e.g., bleach). The drains are for draining & winterizing. I didn't label the yellow Alde drain valve which appears to be in the draining position (straight up).
TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6)
RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
36g - that's a lot! I bought a drill pump in case I ever need to add to our fresh water tank, but haven't used it yet. Works pretty fast though.
TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6)
RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
2019 T@B Boondock Edge
Normally I use the antifreeze method to winterize as I did this year again. However, last year after we moved to Alaska and were occupied with getting settled I opted for the "quick and easy" blow-out method. When I started to de-winterize this spring I got the unpleasant surprise of water spewing out of the toilet valve!
If you use the "blow-out" method you must be very sure you blow ALL the water out of that valve. The link below contains the thread with my whole story of what happened, what the RV parts dealer told me and how I had to replace the valve.
https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/comment/92224#Comment_92224
Fergie
Adventure Canadian Style
2018 Tab320s Boondock Edition, 2018 Toyota Forerunner TRD
https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/ya/65qzp597792b.pdf
You’ll follow method “C”.
? Are you asking what to drain for Winterizing? You can drain the Alde tank using the yellow Safety/Drain valve and open the hot and cold shutoff valves to drain the plumbing. A little tongue up helps.
"Blessed are the curious, for they shall have adventures.”― Lovelle Drachman