Unhitching hassle

scotty0424

Our T@B is new this summer and I've encountered a couple of occasions in which it really puts up a fight while unhitching. With the lever up and the ball cover tilted back, the hitch just refuses to let go of the ball - until, that is, the TV and the trailer are perfectly in line, no angle on the hitch. Is this normal? Any ideas?

Sharon_is_SAM

If your TaB and/or TV are not level you may find it difficult to hitch or unhitch.  If you are sure the jack has been cranked up to the appropriate level, try rocking the Tab using the handles.  Oftentimes, this movement is enough to seat or unseat the coupler from the ball.

webers3

Second that @Sharon_is_SAM , sometimes can't latch the coupler when hitching, rocking the T@B or the TV definitively works

Marceline

I've found that it seems to help if I skootch the trailer slightly forward after backing up, My theory is that it slightly changes how the coupler is sitting on the ball.

pthomas745

And, lithium grease.  On the ball, and inside the coupler.  For the first few trips mine was a bit difficult, and I pushed the trailer back and forth a bit, as described here.  It eventually loosened up and works now fairly easily as long as I keep it lubed.

TabberJohn

Mosey on over to the category called User Manuals/Videos then select Hitching and Towing Help.

ScottG

After chocking the wheels, I usually have to pull the ball tightly forward on the coupler in order to move the retainer up and back. Afterwards I usually have to back up a bit and relieve the pressure so the coupler will pop off the ball. It's a bit a pain but I manage.

The issue is due in part to the particular design of the Atwood coupler, which is designed to not pop off the ball if the trailer might roll forward into your T/V. A little silicone spray might loosen things up a bit, but I've yet to give that a try. 

rkj__

If everything is well greased, I don't usually have too many problems, but it's not uncommon for me to have to push the trailer back away from the tow vehicle slightly to get the coupler to to release.  In most situations, a small manual push is enough.  In rare situations, where the trailer is being pushed strongly into the tow vehicle, I might have to chock the trailer wheels, and move the tow vehicle forward a fraction of an inch, to relieve the pressure pushing the ball into the rear of the coupler. 

Verna

+2 on lithium grease.

It was taking me literally hours to unhitch when I first brought my 400 home in July.  Before each trip I spray the ball and the hitch with lithium grease.  I also cover the ball with a rubber cover to keep the damp weather from rusting the ball when I’m not towing,

I also now step back to check to make sure the truck and 400 are level with each other before I hitch up or when I unhitch. 

Both of these steps save a lot of frustration, believe me. 

jkjenn

ScottG said:

After chocking the wheels, I usually have to pull the ball tightly forward on the coupler in order to move the retainer up and back. Afterwards I usually have to back up a bit and relieve the pressure so the coupler will pop off the ball. It's a bit a pain but I manage.

The issue is due in part to the particular design of the Atwood coupler, which is designed to not pop off the ball if the trailer might roll forward into your T/V. A little silicone spray might loosen things up a bit, but I've yet to give that a try. 

The key is to relieve the forward pressure caused by an uneven height or even not connecting straight on. Moving forward or backward until I hear the satisfying, "thump" or until level usually does the trick. I keep the chains on and the jack wheel on until I can close the coupler. To verify that I have a solid connection, I will raise the jack until it lifts the tow vehicle.

DougWW

Lithium grease? When we bought our T@B in Airdrie last August I asked about grease. Both salesman and manager said not to use any "because it attracts dirt and sand and will ruin the hitch."  I thought this strange as my farmer background says "grease everything twice".
Any suggestions?

pthomas745

Well, it does attract dirt and sand.  But, without some type of lubrication, you will have issues releasing the hitch, and all the beating and banging on it will ruin the hitch.  I go with your "grease everything twice and if it is in a spray can keep spraying."

ScottG

I don't know about the rest of you, but I hardly ever have a situation where I'm able to unhitch in a "level and straight on" position. Maybe that explains some of the difficulty. Regardless, a little finesse always does the trick.  ;-) 

jkjenn

ScottG said: io

I don't know about the rest of you, but I hardly ever have a situation where I'm able to unhitch in a "level and straight on" position. Maybe that explains some of the difficulty. Regardless, a little finesse always does the trick.  ;-) 

I recently had a friend helping me as I was prepping to leave for a trip and of course my spot at home is not at all level. He was applying all sorts of force and I stopped him and suggested that zi carefully pull into alley. Where it is flat. Bingo! 

dsfdogs

@DougWW I use silicone spray on the hitch & ball. I "think" it's cleaner and doesn't attract so much dirt-at least that is what I've previously read. 

Verna

This is what I use:  



I have used silicone grease on my garage door tracks for 27 years and it attracts so much dirt that I wouldn’t use it on my hitch. This white lithium grease doesn’t attract dirt.

jkjenn

Verna said:

This is what I use:  



I have used silicone grease on my garage door tracks for 27 years and it attracts so much dirt that I wouldn’t use it on my hitch. This white lithium grease doesn’t attract dirt.

Agree 

ScottG

So this "grease" comes in a spray can like WD-40? Is it really grease? It must be pretty thin to get out of that can, but perhaps it thickens up on application?

I can hardly contain my curiosity!  :-)

Verna

@ScottG, it comes out of the can as a thicker spray than WD40 or other oils. A little bit goes a long way. I learned to use it from this forum, but I can’t remember who suggested it. I do also have some in a tube for other things that I don’t want to spray. 

scotty0424

TabberJohn said:

Mosey on over to the category called User Manuals/Videos then select Hitching and Towing Help.

Good video. The new information there is that there's a lock in the front part of the socket. You have to relieve pressure on the lock to unhitch. Good to know. Thanks.

pthomas745

Pro-Tip:  Make sure that can of Lithium Grease has the cap securely attached inside your storage container while driving down the road.  The cap can fall off, the exposed nozzle can bang against something, and discharge the whole can of grease all over the bottom of the container.  Ask me how I know!

kaylevine1

also new to hitching and have had trouble at times when trying to hitch ball has to be exactly right-but each time i just moved up slightly with my tow vehicle and clunk-it went in

kaylevine1

I am going to get some of that lithium grease though in case i need it-also thanks for the tip about grabing the handles and rocking the trailer a little

rcuomo

Boeshield T-9. Developed by Boeing to protect and lubricate inaccessible areas on planes and space vehicles. Dries to a white film that lubricates, protects against rust and corrosion and doesn’t attract dust, sand or dirt. Not cheap but worth every cent. 

falcon1970

I'll second that motion--and it won't rub off on your leg if you brush by the ball or hitch.

DougWW

Thanks to everyone for the comments on grease. I "should" have some Boeshield T-9 for the bicycle chains... I'll give that a try in the Spring when I dig the T@B out of the drifts.