TAB 400 door lock problem

jpb0001

So, I got my new Tab 400 home.  Locked the trailer and gave the door a gentle tug to make sure that the door was indeed locked.  This was a gentle tug, mind you, and yet the latch slipped out of the first  (large) opening in the strike plate and lodged against the second (small) opening in the strike plate.  Hmm.  So I opened the door, entered the camper, and observed the lock from inside while my wife locked the door from outside and then repeated the gentle tug.  From inside, I noticed that the latch barely extends within the large opening in the strike plate, and the gentle tug is sufficient to allow the latch to slip out of the strike plate.  Obviously, this is a real security concern. I don't see any way to repair the problem without shimming the strike plate so that it moves closer to the latch, thereby allow the latch to extend further into the larger opening in the strike plate. I'm hoping that someone has had a similar issue and knows of a quick and easy fix so that I don't have to drag the trailer two hours back to the dealer.  Anyone had personal experience with the problem?  A solution?


In addition, I'd really like to replace the lock with one that has a bolt.  However, these locks are not standard RV type locks (I located them on the product inventory of a lock manufacturer in Italy) and it seems pretty clear that a special lock will be required.  Anyone have any experience in replacing the TAB 400 door lock?

dragonsdofly

@jpb0001, please use the search function in the upper right hand corner of the screen. Use key words like 400 door problems or t@b 400 door lock, etc. There are several threads about adjusting the lock, and many comments about same. Also I'm sure some resident experts will chime in. Good luck. 

JEB

@jpb0001
As you saw, I had exactly the same problem as you.  It’s been too cold here for me to diagnose precisely what the problem is.  I can’t tell if the latch bolt isn’t extending far enough to seat fully into the striker plate or if the striker plate is too far back in the frame causing the latch bolt to bind.  The latter would be the easiest to fix.  Just loosen the four bolts holding the striker plate to the frame and move the plate outward a couple of millimeters.

jpb0001

@JEB, I have a call into the dealer to see if he can fix.  I'll post the resolution of the issue here. Please do the same on your post.  Hopefully one of us will have a solution that can be shared with the other. Also, hopefully, Nucamp might weigh in with a solution since two new owners who purchased a product within a couple of weeks of each other have the same problem ( perhaps a temporary quality control issue?).  Other than this glitch, the trailer seems to be above average in quality relative to other trailers I've owned or considered buying.  New trailers always have "stuff" that needs to be adjusted.

Sharon_is_SAM

@JEB and @jpb0001, have either of you notified nuCamp regarding this issue as they do not monitor these discussions and will not weigh in.

BigGrover

@Jeb i got my 400 in January, I too am having to fiddle with the door lock.  So far I have f disassembled it, greased and lubricated it.  Reassembked it and the latch bolt was still sticking.  I loosened the upper right screw that hols the two halves of the assmbly together and the latch bolt is no longer sticking.  I am having to adjust the striker plate incrementally each trip in order to get it to hold the door in closer each time.  There's about a quarter inch of movement in and out after the door is latched.  Started out with 1/2" .

JEB

BigGrover said:

@Jeb i got my 400 in January, I too am having to fiddle with the door lock.  So far I have f disassembled it, greased and lubricated it.  Reassembked it and the latch bolt was still sticking.  I loosened the upper right screw that hols the two halves of the assmbly together and the latch bolt is no longer sticking.  I am having to adjust the striker plate incrementally each trip in order to get it to hold the door in closer each time.  There's about a quarter inch of movement in and out after the door is latched.  Started out with 1/2" .

Interesting, but I think my lock problem is just the opposite.  I don’t think the latch bolt is sticking regularly.  Occasionally it will stick, but a tap on the lever frees it easily.  And as for the striker plate, I think mine might be set too far in.  I have to push pretty hard on the door or slam it to get it to latch and even then I’m not sure it’s latching completely. Sounds to me like your door is latching completely but the door is loose so you have to move the striker plate in a little each trip.

JEB

Sharon_is_SAM said:

@JEB and @jpb0001, have either of you notified nuCamp regarding this issue as they do not monitor these discussions and will not weigh in.

I have.  I sent an inquiry using the same “contact us” link on their website I used for other inquiries about the striker bolts being loose.  Radio silence.  This was last week.

Verna

Try emailing warranty@nucamprv.com (I think both of you are still under the one year warranty).

Another email is tech@nucamprv.com, but he won’t be as capable about making warranty decisions. 

JEB

Verna said:

Try emailing warranty@nucamprv.com (I think both of you are still under the one year warranty).

Another email is tech@nucamprv.com, but he won’t be as capable about making warranty decisions. 

After two weeks of ownership I better still be under warranty. . . .

Thanks for the contact information.  But it was -3F this morning. It will be a few days before I can double check a couple of things. 

Verna

Yes, @JEB, you are still under warranty.

While I am a Snowbird in Arizona for my winters, I still remember -3*.....brrrrr!  I just don’t want to experience it again!

JEB

Ok, despite the inclement weather, I did some more diagnosing.  Couldn’t help myself.  

The problem is the latch bolt failing to seat fully into the striker plate.  It is critical.  There is a little play in the lock handle such that if you lock the door and pull on the handle, the latch bolt withdraws a couple of millimeters.  If the latch bolt is not fully seated in the striker plate, that small amount of play is just enough to cause the latch bolt to disengage and pull out of the striker plate.

Here’s how I fixed mine.  First, make sure the striker bolts above and below the latch bolt are set perfectly.  Mine were loose, which I think was part of the problem.  The striker bolts are set properly if they touch NOTHING as you shut the door.  As you face the outside of the door, they should be screwed into the door far enough that they barely clear the weatherstripping on the left side but not screwed in so far that the heads come into contact with the striker plate channels on the right side.  

Second, once you have ensured that the striker bolts are set properly and the door shuts cleanly, shut the door firmly from the outside.  To be sure that the latch bolt has fullly engaged, push firmly on the edge of the door just to the left of the lock plate at exactly the level of the striker plate.  If the latch bolt did not fully engage when you shut the door, this additional push should produce an audible “click” as the latch bolt completely extends and engages into the striker plate.

Now lock the door and test it with a gentle tug.  It should hold.  But don’t pull too hard.  The lock handle is flimsy and you are liable to break it off.

In addition to the striker bolts not being set properly, I think part of the problem also might be that the doors are new and the seals haven’t had time to fully compress with use. Over time, the door should loosen up allowing the latch bolt to engage more easily. I’d give it some time before making striker plate adjustments.

BigGrover

@JEB yup, that's exactly what I have been doing.  Wish we could find a better aftermarket assembly to replace the almost all plastic assembly

JEB

BigGrover said:

@JEB yup, that's exactly what I have been doing.  Wish we could find a better aftermarket assembly to replace the almost all plastic assembly

I hear you, but it still wouldn’t be Fort Knox.  One good kick and you could punch the whole door in.  All that would be left is a high quality lock.

BigGrover

I just want a lock that's a little more sturdy that will hold up better.  If someone really wants in they can get in judt by popping out a window.  I don't want to be on a trip when a piece of plastic breaks in the assembly and have to duct tape the door shut to get home.

ColinsTab400

Did anyone hear back from Nucamp on this?  I have the same issue.  Brand new trailer that sat for the winter.

BigGrover

Negative, instead of trying to drive 3 hours to take it to the dealer I have been working on it myself

ColinsTab400

I just fussed with this a bit more.   Actually,  the door was not fully closing which was allowing the latch only to catch the small striker opening. I am thinking a little silicone on the weather stripping will allow the door to close more easily and seat itself properly in the lock...  tommorrow's to do


I found the issue on mine.  The alignment screws are supposed to have lock tight so they stay in the proper setting.  The top one on mine did not have lock tight and worked its way out of the proper setting so that it was hitting the latch just as it was fully closing.   I just have to add some lock tight... adjust the screw and it should be all set. 

Jax0913

Having the same issue with our 400. Looks like the little play in the handle is allow the the latch to unseat from the strike plate on the outside. If I lock it from the inside It closes no problem. Our alignment screws are loose enough that you can finger tighten or loosen them... Is that the issue? 

Gonna play tonight with the screws to see if I can get the door to lock nicely into the strike plate. Any other suggestions??

BigGrover

I have tried the silicone but it doesn't help.  Maybe a thin smear of petroleum jelly?

JEB

After weeks of fiddling with it--and several email exchanges with nuCamp, which provided instructions that were unhelpful and involved using a claw hammer (no joke)--I gave up and took it to the dealer.  Apparently, it required a lot of adjustment to get it right.  The striker plate had to be adjusted, the latch itself had to be adjusted.  The guy I talked to in service said it took the tech quite awhile.  There were no easy fixes, like just simply adding more lubricant, in my case.  There was a lot of finessing involved.

UPDATE:  I am now of the opinion that this is a design issue.  When I went to my dealer yesterday afternoon to pick up my T@B, I tested the door by locking it with the key and then trying to pull the door open with the handle.  The door came open, completely, while still locked.  It was barely latched.  Obviously not safe to transport with a door that could not be secured properly, I left it with the dealer with instructions to contact nuCamp's engineers and work out a thoughtful, permanent, non jerry-rigged solution.  After weeks of fiddling with the lock, I couldn't fix it.  Creed's solution was nonsense.  And now the dealer couldn't come up with anything that works, either.  It's a defect that will require some redesign. 

I suspect that the ultimate solution will involve something along the lines of a new metal plate about 1/4" thick behind the strike plate C-bracket and four redesigned bolts to hold it in place so that the strike plate can be moved forward toward the front of the trailer.  This would allow the latch bolt to seat into the strike plate more fully.  It's definitely not an adjustment issue as mine is currently configured.

jpb0001

I got the same claw hammer suggested fix from Nucamp, which was ineffective.  The shim plate is probably the best solution.  I'm on a 4000 mile road trip and, unfortunately, can't securely lock the door.  Very disappointing.

ADRawli

I spent about 3 hours on my door lock the first week we had the trailer.  I took apart the latch on the frame and tightened up all the plates as best I could.  Then I just played with the alignment screws (guide bolts?) until they just barely cleared the frame part of the plate, and finally found a position that the door fully seated nicely, and locked up tight.  But, after opening a few more times it would go right back to not closing properly.  I re-adjusted the screws until it was working again, then drew a line on them with a Sharpie to show where they should be. I opened and closed a few more times and I realized that each time I closed and opened, they were turning, and both turning in opposite directions!  Would not have expected that. So, I got them back to where all was closing and holding well again, then Blue Loc-tited them.  They’ve stayed in place since, and although the door closes a bit rough, I find that it is completely sealed tight, locks and unlocks easily, and has worked well since.  It was a lot of trial and error, and close inspection of the mechanism as I closed it, but it really was just those 2 alignment screws, or guide bolts, whatever they’re called. 

JEB

ADRawli said:

I spent about 3 hours on my door lock the first week we had the trailer.  I took apart the latch on the frame and tightened up all the plates as best I could.  Then I just played with the alignment screws (guide bolts?) until they just barely cleared the frame part of the plate, and finally found a position that the door fully seated nicely, and locked up tight.  But, after opening a few more times it would go right back to not closing properly.  I re-adjusted the screws until it was working again, then drew a line on them with a Sharpie to show where they should be. I opened and closed a few more times and I realized that each time I closed and opened, they were turning, and both turning in opposite directions!  Would not have expected that. So, I got them back to where all was closing and holding well again, then Blue Loc-tited them.  They’ve stayed in place since, and although the door closes a bit rough, I find that it is completely sealed tight, locks and unlocks easily, and has worked well since.  It was a lot of trial and error, and close inspection of the mechanism as I closed it, but it really was just those 2 alignment screws, or guide bolts, whatever they’re called. 

I hate to break it to you, but I did exactly what you did.  Unfortunately, it is only a temporary fix.  The constant contact between the guide bolts and the strike plate guides will cause them to wear prematurely—bad—and eventually the whole assembly will loosen and start to wobble from the constant banging. 

JEB

jpb0001 said:

I got the same claw hammer suggested fix from Nucamp, which was ineffective.  The shim plate is probably the best solution.  I'm on a 4000 mile road trip and, unfortunately, can't securely lock the door.  Very disappointing.

After further communication from nuCamp, including input from the 400 Line Foreman, they have reaffirmed the claw hammer method with some clarification.  What they are recommending is pulling on the small vertical strip of metal separating the two holes in the strike plate hard enough to cause it to bow out enough for the latch to catch on it.  I’m really not happy with this solution, but it is the only one they are providing.  Mine is still at the dealer.  I want them to do it in case they end up busting the lock or otherwise rendering it inoperable so the repair isn’t at my expense. 

This is a very disappointing response from nuCamp.  I expected better. 

BigGrover

Have either of you tried loosening or removing the doorframe screws below the latch and putting a shim behind the frame

BigGrover

@Jeb, I wonder if an additional thickness of metal could be added somehow rather rhan bending it.  It sounds like a definite design flaw or bad installation.  

JEB

BigGrover said:

Have either of you tried loosening or removing the doorframe screws below the latch and putting a shim behind the frame

I did.  Tried using four washers as shims.  Didn’t work.  The logical place for a shim is behind the C-bracket that comprises the strike plate.  You basically need to sandwich the shim between the C-bracket and the L-bracket that is bolted to the wall.  Unfortunately, the four screws at the back of the C-Bracket are too short to make it through the equivalent of three plates’ thickness.  Plus, a full plate shim would be more stable and I don’t have the machining tools to properly size the shim and drill the holes accurately enough.

JEB

BigGrover said:

@Jeb, I wonder if an additional thickness of metal could be added somehow rather rhan bending it.  It sounds like a definite design flaw or bad installation.  

Agreed.  But nuCamp seems unwilling to manufacture the necessary parts to do it properly.  A metal plate/shim about 1/8-1/4” thick behind the c-bracket would fix the problem.  A slotted L-Bracket that would allow the whole assembly to be moved forward toward the front of the trailer would also work if the slot were serrated so you could lock it in position once properly adjusted. 

BigGrover

So far I have been able to lock mine after adjusting the striker plate out.  My only issue right now is the top bolt keeps working out and and the head causes sticking.  May have to try blue loctite

JEB

BigGrover said:

So far I have been able to lock mine after adjusting the striker plate out.  My only issue right now is the top bolt keeps working out and and the head causes sticking.  May have to try blue loctite

Yes. They clearly did not think this through very well.  The C-Bracket is easy to move in and out (side to side) because it’s slotted.  They did not think to make the L-Bracket slotted as well so that it could be adjusted closer to or further from the latch bolt as needed.