TAB 400 door lock problem

BigGrover

Yup, that would have been better, I don't know who their supplier is but they missed the boat on that one.  

ADRawli

JEB said:

I hate to break it to you, but I did exactly what you did.  Unfortunately, it is only a temporary fix.  The constant contact between the guide bolts and the strike plate guides will cause them to wear prematurely—bad—and eventually the whole assembly will loosen and start to wobble from the constant banging. 

You might be right.  The whole mechanism was loose and wobbled when new and before I started working on it. The hardest part was tightening up the four bolts that held the catch to the frame, but since I was able to get in and do that with a mini ratchet I found at Lowes, it’s continued to stay tight.  But we’re not living in the trailer nor on a long road trip with constant use, so it’s possible/likely over time it will loosen again with use.  For now, I’ll just hold my breath and keep my tools/Loc-tite handy,  and wish you the best as I’ve had a taste of how frustrating that is. Sorry I couldn’t provide help.

BigGrover

It's the door alock assembly itself is pretty flimsy mechanism that's mostly plastic.  I hope they come out with something more durable that can be retrofit to the door.

VictoriaP

Aren’t they now using this door/lock on the new 320 too? If so, unfortunately the problem is only going to get more common. Which might at least force a fix sooner...

I really don’t understand why nuCamp  didn’t just use a standard setup that allows for replacement of the lock with an off the shelf solution, such as the RVlock so many 320 owners already use. Mostly they’re good at incorporating things customer modifications into their designs, but then once in a while they seem to wander off from their customer-first ways.

Sorry you guys are dealing with this. Hopefully a better solution is found and implemented soon.

JEB

ADRawli said:

JEB said:

I hate to break it to you, but I did exactly what you did.  Unfortunately, it is only a temporary fix.  The constant contact between the guide bolts and the strike plate guides will cause them to wear prematurely—bad—and eventually the whole assembly will loosen and start to wobble from the constant banging. 

You might be right.  The whole mechanism was loose and wobbled when new and before I started working on it. The hardest part was tightening up the four bolts that held the catch to the frame, but since I was able to get in and do that with a mini ratchet I found at Lowes, it’s continued to stay tight.  But we’re not living in the trailer nor on a long road trip with constant use, so it’s possible/likely over time it will loosen again with use.  For now, I’ll just hold my breath and keep my tools/Loc-tite handy,  and wish you the best as I’ve had a taste of how frustrating that is. Sorry I couldn’t provide help.

Could you provide a link to that mini ratchet?  I couldn’t figure out how to get to those frame screws with my existing tools. I think regardless of the ultimate solution, those screws will have to be tightened periodically.  The mechanism overall just isn’t that robust. 

ADRawli

@JEB Sure thing.   This is the set I bought from Lowes
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-35-Piece-Standard-SAE-and-Metric-Polished-Chrome-Mechanic-s-Tool-Set/3387640

But thinking back now, I also bought an even smaller one from Amazon.  It might have been this one that I used.  It was very tedious getting it in behind the latch plate mechanism, getting alignment and holding the square head socket in place, and then making small movements with fingertips only since it’s very restricted in there, but I could see no other way to do it with the door mounted.  These made that possible.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BUJXQJ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Picture of both.  Amazon one in my hand, and the kit I bought at Lowes. Sorry for the lighting. 

JEB

@ADRawli Perfect. Thanks!

JEB

Although I haven't seen the work yet, it looks like my dealer was finally able to fix the lock using the method I outlined above.  An extra metal plate/shim at the back of the strike plate assembly sandwiched between the L and C brackets with four holes drilled into it to match the four holes on the L-bracket.  Requires four longer screws to get through the C-Bracket, the shim and the L-Bracket, but it works once torqued down.  The shim pushes the strike plate about 1/8" closer to the locking mechanism which allows the latch bolt to seat further into the strike plate. 

My dealer explained the fix to nuCamp when it submitted the warranty claim, who conceded that they couldn't figure it out themselves.  Hopefully, nuCamp will now manufacture parts so that others with this problem can make fixes without having to fabricate their own.

BigGrover

I wonder about their techs at NuCamp and handing door issues?  They do everything else so well.  Recommending bending with a claw hammer is certainly no repair method.  When I had door issues with my other 400 they were completely at a loss.  My dealer had replaced my door that was warped and when they installed the new unit, complete with door frame, they over tightened the screws warping the frame.  Even when I sent pics to Creed and crew they didn't seem to understand the way it needed to be fixed.  The dealer actually bowed the striker plate side of the door frame away from latch bolt where it couldn't catch.  The door frame needed to be replaced or shimmed back to plumb. Another thing, I hope someone comes up with a better assembly for the door unit latch handle and lock assembly.  I know the plastic is not gonna hold up.  Maybe enough of us 400 owners could get together with an after market electronic lock co?

JEB

BigGrover said:

I wonder about their techs at NuCamp and handing door issues?  They do everything else so well.  Recommending bending with a claw hammer is certainly no repair method.  When I had door issues with my other 400 they were completely at a loss.  My dealer had replaced my door that was warped and when they installed the new unit, complete with door frame, they over tightened the screws warping the frame.  Even when I sent pics to Creed and crew they didn't seem to understand the way it needed to be fixed.  The dealer actually bowed the striker plate side of the door frame away from latch bolt where it couldn't catch.  The door frame needed to be replaced or shimmed back to plumb. Another thing, I hope someone comes up with a better assembly for the door unit latch handle and lock assembly.  I know the plastic is not gonna hold up.  Maybe enough of us 400 owners could get together with an after market electronic lock co?

No, the plastic probably won't last.  But I am optimistic that I bought some time with this fix.  I won't have to slam the door closed anymore to jam the guide bolts into the guides in the striker plate to keep the door shut.  That should reduce some wear and tear.  As for an after market lock, that could be awhile since RVDoors is mostly marketed outside the US.  It won't be our demand that drives the market for a new lock.

JEB

The fix.  At the top of the bracket you’ll see a third metal plate sandwiched between the L-Bracket and the C-Bracket.  The screws are new as well—longer to get through the thickness of three plates.  The fix was completely successful.  The door closes easily, latches securely and seals more tightly to the weatherstripping.  Still a little disgusted that the best nuCamp could come up with was hit it with a bigger hammer. 

idletab

Hey Jeb, how long are the screws and what type of metal plate is that?

JEB

The metal plate is aluminum. I don’t know the length of the screws. I came up with the general idea. My dealer implemented it.  But the screws should be easy to figure out. Just take one of the originals out of the door, measure it, and add at least 1/8” to calculate the length of the replacement.

ADRawli

I wonder if the same might be done with the longer screws and washers (1 or 2) used as spacers instead of the new plate?  Seems like that might be easier for most of us than fabricating a new plate.

JEB

ADRawli said:

I wonder if the same might be done with the longer screws and washers (1 or 2) used as spacers instead of the new plate?  Seems like that might be easier for most of us than fabricating a new plate.

It should work. I tried that myself, which was how I discovered that the existing screws were too short.

BigGrover

Washers might not offer the same stability as a plate.

Verna

Here is the response from the warranty department:

We are advising people to install washers as the shim, they will need 2 5mm x 12mm - 15mm bolts and 4 washers for the adjustment. 

They may contact Warranty for parts.”

Send an email with your mailing address, type of T@B 400 (in case they keep track of it) —  warranty@nucamprv.com — and they will send out the necessary parts. 

JEB

Verna said:

Here is the response from the warranty department:

We are advising people to install washers as the shim, they will need 2 5mm x 12mm - 15mm bolts and 4 washers for the adjustment. 

They may contact Warranty for parts.”

Send an email with your mailing address, type of T@B 400 (in case they keep track of it) —  warranty@nucamprv.com — and they will send out the necessary parts. 

You mean yanking the crap out of the strike plate with a claw hammer is NOT a good idea?  I'm floored.  Stunned.  

ADRawli

Verna said:

Here is the response from the warranty department:

We are advising people to install washers as the shim, they will need 2 5mm x 12mm - 15mm bolts and 4 washers for the adjustment. 

They may contact Warranty for parts.”

Send an email with your mailing address, type of T@B 400 (in case they keep track of it) —  warranty@nucamprv.com — and they will send out the necessary parts. 

Cool.  Thanks for contacting nüCamp, and thanks to @JEB for the “solve” in the first place. 

JEB said:

You mean yanking the crap out of the strike plate with a claw hammer is NOT a good idea?  I'm floored.  Stunned.  

Yeah, a claw hammer seems almost an SNL spoof response...what’s next...a 1” bit on a hammer drill to fix our slow draining bathroom sinks?  

Sorry, I’m actually a big time nüCamp fanboy, so I expect this was just an anomaly. 

JEB

ADRawli said:

Yeah, a claw hammer seems almost an SNL spoof response...what’s next...a 1” bit on a hammer drill to fix our slow draining bathroom sinks?  

Sorry, I’m actually a big time nüCamp fanboy, so I expect this was just an anomaly. 

Hammer drill?  No, that would be stupid.  Nobody could be that stupid. . . .

As for bashing nuCamp, I agree with you.  I too am a fan, generally.  And I get not gathering the villagers together with pitchforks and torches to burn nuCamp at the stake over every little inconvenience, like a sink that doesn't drain quickly enough.  That would be frivolous. 

But an entry door that fails to latch properly is far more serious.  Not only does it present personal safety concerns while camping, if you were on the expressway and that barely-latched door flew open, very bad things could happen.  I promise you that if the NTSB got wind of travel trailer doors coming open in transit, a recall would ensue very quickly.  And Nucamp's response to this issue (until now) has been, charitably put, cavalier.  That is something I cannot overlook easily.  A little public shaming is entirely in order.

Verna

The dealers will be receiving a Service Bulletin from the Warranty Department at nüCampRV. 

BoondockingBoykins

Hey Guys, I'm just now jumping on this.  Of course we are three days from going to UP and my door is having issues.  I've had it almost a year now.  My problem is the outside latch moves enough to disengage the latch on the face plate.  It was not doing this before but I never really liked the door lock at all.  Now I am three days from leaving and I do not know how to at least do a temporary fix that would work.

DenisP

See @verna ‘s comment.  I installed the washers and my door has been great since. I also used blue locktite to make sure it didn’t loosen up. 

falcon1970

@BoondockingBoykins
As a temporary, although very kludgy, solution to get you on the road, try taping the door handle closed.  Lowe's sells red vinyl "stucco tape."  It holds well on the sides of the TABs.  Take the whole roll with you as it doesn't stick for long if you try to reuse it.  I'm envisioning a strip of tape from top to bottom across the handle.  That will keep the handle tight.  Ugly for sure and not a permanent solution but it will last for a road trip and give you time to investigate the real problem.

Tundra57

I will mention this one last time then never again. Looking at the picture above showing the lock and door frame. You will see two wood screws in the frame. If you take them out you and look inside you will see that there are actually threads available in the lock plate. If you replace these wood screws with correct thread set screws, this will also help secure the lock plate do it is secured from two different angles. Mine has not moved since I fixed it. I believe I posted the whole procedure. Also while I was doing it I took out the inner screen door frame and the bottom cable cover. In my case the power cable was cut through by the aluminum cable cover. I protected it before reinstallation. If this cable had grounded out there could be a fire or constant breaker tripping. I contacted Nucamp but they just ignored me as has become the norm.

Be aware.

I have a late model Tab 400 boondock lite.

gspdx

JEB said:

Verna said:

Here is the response from the warranty department:

We are advising people to install washers as the shim, they will need 2 5mm x 12mm - 15mm bolts and 4 washers for the adjustment. 

They may contact Warranty for parts.”

Send an email with your mailing address, type of T@B 400 (in case they keep track of it) —  warranty@nucamprv.com — and they will send out the necessary parts. 

You mean yanking the crap out of the strike plate with a claw hammer is NOT a good idea?  I'm floored.  Stunned.  

You know what they say. "When the only tool you have is a hammer..."

[Deleted User]

Did did this by any chance get fixed in the 2020 400? I see NuCamp put out a fix for the problem.  Wondering if they incorporated the fix in 2020 models. 

“To adjust the door latch, we are advising owners to install washers as a shim.  The adjustment requires two 5mm x 12 - 15mm bolts and 4 washers.“

p21usa

I know this is an older post but I happened upon it when I was trying to find a "fix" for this problem in my new 2021 Tab 400 BD.  I immediately ordered the kit from nuCamp.  FYI it included FOUR bolts and EIGHT washers.  So, we put two washers on each hole in the plate.  To hold them in place, we use 3M 77 spray adhesive.  It tooks just a few minutes and we are now BETTER than new!

Austinatos

jpb0001 said:

So, I got my new Tab 400 home.  Locked the trailer and gave the door a gentle tug to make sure that the door was indeed locked.  This was a gentle tug, mind you, and yet the latch slipped out of the first  (large) opening in the strike plate and lodged against the second (small) opening in the strike plate.  Hmm.  So I opened the door, entered the camper, and observed the lock from inside while my wife locked the door from outside and then repeated the gentle tug.  From inside, I noticed that the latch barely extends within the large opening in the strike plate, and the gentle tug is sufficient to allow the latch to slip out of the strike plate.  Obviously, this is a real security concern. I don't see any way to repair the problem without shimming the strike plate so that it moves closer to the latch, thereby allow the latch to extend further into the larger opening in the strike plate. I'm hoping that someone has had a similar issue and knows of a quick and easy fix so that I don't have to drag the trailer two hours back to the dealer.  Anyone had personal experience with the problem?  A solution?


In addition, I'd really like to replace the lock with one that has a bolt.  However, these locks are not standard RV type locks (I located them on the product inventory of a lock manufacturer in Italy) and it seems pretty clear that a special lock will be required.  Anyone have any experience in replacing the TAB 400 door lock?

Hi - We are investigating solutions to this same issue with a 2021 400. This seems to be the latest thread (that I have found anyway). Has the adjustment offered from NuCamp been a good solution (does it work and have you been happy?) Their “recommendation was to add ‘shims’ that they would provide....

p21usa

Austinatos said:

Hi - We are investigating solutions to this same issue with a 2021 400. This seems to be the latest thread (that I have found anyway). Has the adjustment offered from NuCamp been a good solution (does it work and have you been happy?) Their “recommendation was to add ‘shims’ that they would provide....

Works great!