12v outlets in 2019 T@B 320 S - Are they 2 way?

Kire70

Hello,

Does anyone know if the 12v charging outlets in the 2019 (and other years) are bi-directional? Me and another owner want to use a Goal Zero Yeti Lithium 1000 to charge the T@B’s battery if no shore power or solar is available, but you have a charge on the Yeti. 

I spoke to GZ and they said as long as the 12v outlet was like some cars where you can charge the car battery through the cigarette outlet it would work. He also said you could hook it up to the 30 Amp outlet using the adapter for standard 110/120V as long as it does not exceed 1500 Watts. Does this all jive?

(Edit) I would assume, Alde and AC are a no go. 

DISCLAIMER, I am not doing any of this until I consult with NüCamp or very knowledgeable people on the forum. I am not skilled in electrical wiring knowledge and the like. I would encourage anyone to contact Goal Zero/NüCamp ask for yourself to ensure all info is correct and safe.

Thanks  

klenger

I'm pretty sure they are bi-directional, although I have not tested it.  There may be issues with blowing fuses if the Yeti charge current is high.  Typically, 12 volt ports are not fused or wired for high current.  It would be better is wire some kind of suitable connector directly to the battery.

dsfdogs

I saw your post on FB and wondered about the bidirectional question...GZ said it's ok to plug the trailer into the Yeti, but are you trying to avoid using the inverter in the Yeti and use the 12v/cigarette lighter plug instead, otherwise, I'm not clear why? According to my booklet, the 12v produces up to 10amp output, the inverter AC plug produces up to 12.5 amps. @jkjenn told me she uses the Noco 7200 plugged into the Yeti and attached to the Tab battery as the most efficient way to charge the Tab battery, so that is what I'm doing as well. Otherwise, I'd just plug the trailer into the Yeti.

jkjenn

This is a very interesting idea. I have AGM batteries and the battery charger does a better job charging AGM than the converter, so I won't likely change what I am doing, but this is pretty interesting.

So, how will you go from AC to 12v? 

Geo

@Kire70 ,  The weak links in this scenario are the wire size and the fuse size.  If the battery is very discharged - to great a current flow could potentially set fire to the wire if the fuse fails to open.  IMO, A direct connect to the battery with a properly sized wire and fuse to the current output of the Goal Zero is the way to go.

Kire70

Thanks everyone. I will not be charging the battery from the T@B’a 12v outlet, even if it is bi-directional. The melting wire scenario is way scary. Thanks for the advice. Be well all. 

Erik

Kire70

I also think i will not plug the trailer into the Goal Zero either. I already sometimes supplement the trailer solar panel with Goal Zero 200 watt solar panel connected directly to the battery using the Goal Zero Guardian. 300 watts will charge the T@B battery quickly. 

Thanks. 

rfuss928

An adapter can be easily made to allow connection through the 7-pin pigtail.  The wire size and fusing easily handle charging current - fused at 25 or 30 amps in most cases.

BrianZ

What exactly are we looking at in your photo, @rfuss928?  I assume you are suggesting connecting a solar panel to the SAE connector, which is connected to the 7-way socket which is connected to trailer, but what is the large cable for or connected to?

rfuss928

BrianZ said:

What exactly are we looking at in your photo, @rfuss928?  I assume you are suggesting connecting a solar panel to the SAE connector, which is connected to the 7-way socket which is connected to trailer, but what is the large cable for or connected to?

There is a ~1 foot piece of 12/2 line cord (large cable??) connected to the POS and NEG terminals inside the 7 pin socket.  The other ends black and white wires are connected to a SAE connector's wires with wire nuts.

When connected to the trailer pig tail, it provides direct access to the battery. 

It can be used to connect a charger of any type or as a power source for any 12v accessory you choose such as a cooler or lights.

It has been a handy adapter that is easily changed to accommodate other connector styles like a cigarette lighter socket or just bare wires for alligator clips.

It was quickly created on a trip to provide an easy connection for an automotive style battery charger to substitute for a failed converter.

Have fun.

Bob

BrianZ

@rfuss928:
Ok, thanks Bob, I see it now - the socket is laying on top of its coiled up cord.  The camera angle made it look to me as if there were two different cords exiting from the back of the socket, so I was confused.

Looks like that could be handy.  In fact, I could have used it to avoid wiring in a new pigtail on our T@B battery for the fridge, since I had mounted a similar SAE connector on our 7-pin socket housing from the fridge in car, for connecting an extension cord from it to battery pigtail.  Although I needed that extension anyway while towing.

I did make one similar to yours though, using a plug instead of socket, for patching our fridge through to the car battery while not towing or parked.

bfrank

I was watching this video yesterday.  A little long but informational. 

https://youtu.be/Z9c1hVXBggk

If you got the DC/DC charger you could plug that in and apparently it's a more efficient way to charge.  

Cbusguy

renogy offers a dc to dc charger/battery isolation system that is less expensive than the one above.   Link They must be out of stock on the 20 amp version which is what  I purchased and will be installing it on my trailer when I have some spare time.   The box was very generic with no renogy markings on them,  same for the literature.     So just a guess here,  but I would start to look for generic, non branded battery isolation systems