Anything but zamp......

Cbusguy

So the old reverse polarity zamp plug in the tongue box for solar,  well that just isn't gonna cut it for me.  

Did a couple of searches and there doesn't seem to be a standard for this type of connection.   Solar panel to RV.

So engineer tinkerer types what did you end up doing as an improvement over zamp?

rcuomo

Solarseller.com. Less than $20 standard SAE plug adapted to Renogy 100w suitcase. 

Sharon_is_SAM

If you want to use the solar SAE port as is on a non-zamp solar panel, just arrange the leads on the battery to suit your application.  We ended up having our charge controller at the battery, so the Zamp port pigtails were disconnected from the battery and now connect with pigtails at the charge controller.  In the near future, we are going to eliminate use of the solar port as we think the SAE connection is a weak link in the system.

ScottG

I wouldn't necessarily call it an improvement, but I ended up making my own custom cables/adapters as part of my modular "solar lunchbox" mod. My Renogy panels plug directly into the exisiting Zamp port, which is wired through my controller and then on to the battery. This discussion includes some descriptions and photos of what I did, as well as some creative alternatives from other owners.

Whatever approach you take, it's not a big deal so long as you are always careful to connect positive to positive and negative to negative.

pthomas745

The whole point of the Zamp/SAE cable is to prevent the metal part of the SAE cable from becoming the 'hot" lead, which could cause sparks, safety issues, etc.

I simply wire my solar controller's SAE cable so the positive lead from the controller goes to the plastic part of the cable.  Like this:  The wire with the lettering goes from the negative output of the controller to the to the metal part of the SAE.  The "unlettered" cable (with the red electrical tape) goes from the positive output of the controller to the black plastic part of the SAE cable.  

Done.  The Zamp connector (just an SAE plug) is a simple way to connect solar, but the "reverse polarity" hangup causes untold confusion.

Took me months to get my head around it, but the Forums eventually hammered the answer into my head.

Or, you can just buy one of these, and it will perform the "polarity" trick for you.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AHCWGOO/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

jkjenn

Victron (and others) reverse the polarity in the solar controller. 

Cbusguy

Oh well,  looks like i will just need to come up with something.   thx for the responses.  I own about 1kw of solar and could probably run the AC  during the day,   Need a connector that will with stand 80-100 amps.

ChrisFix

Cbusguy said:

Oh well,  looks like i will just need to come up with something.   thx for the responses.  I own about 1kw of solar and could probably run the AC  during the day,   Need a connector that will with stand 80-100 amps.

Out of curiosity, how do you carry that much solar with a T@B?

Cbusguy

It isn't that many panels,  everyone thinks in terms of suitcase setups.   I drive a pickup and they fit nicely in the bed of the truck.  I think the package is 3foot by 2 foot by 5.  

ScottG

Cbusguy said:

Oh well,  looks like i will just need to come up with something.   thx for the responses.  I own about 1kw of solar and could probably run the AC  during the day,   Need a connector that will with stand 80-100 amps.

Reverse polarity or not, that might be a different issue. Maybe replace the Zamp port with a twist-lock receptacle, provided you can find one that is rated that high.

seajeeper

Sounds like you need a forklift battery connector or winch connector....

https://powerwerx.com/anderson-sb-connectors-sb120-120amp

Cbusguy

@seajeeper  That is what I ordered,  except  120 amp rated.   I was just hoping for a more eloquent solution

jkjenn

Honestly, you would need a thicker gauge of wire than the Zamp port had. The Naderson connectors are a good call.