Part Number for this Atwood Yoke Style Coupler

Bayliss

Does anyone know what the Atwood model number is for the yoke style coupler depicted in this photo?  It is mounted on my 2019 320S Boondock Lite.  I downloaded the Atwood installation documentation for their coupler's, but I cannot determine from their drawings which model I have.  I was trying to figure it out so I could order the Proven Industries (PI) coupler lock.  The PI Model #2178-A shows this coupler as one of the two that work with that particular lock, so that is what I ordered.  Still, it would be nice to confirm the Atwood coupler model number.  Thanks!  (Greg) 

Sharon_is_SAM

I found 2 references on the forum for Atwood 80060 and 80072.  The 80060 is straight and the 80072 has a flared end (yoke style?).   I don’t have my trailer to check it.  Just Google it and you will find plenty of pictures.

MuttonChops

Bayliss said:

. . .  The PI Model #2178-A shows this coupler as one of the two that work with that particular lock, so that is what I ordered.  Still, it would be nice to confirm the Atwood coupler model number. 

That's the PI Model I would have ordered as it is the only 2" ball Yoke Style Coupler lock.
Atwood has several Yoke Coupler part numbers. My money is on the 80082 part number.

jgram2

You could try calling Nücamp with your trailer VIN number and asking them.

Bayliss

@MuttonChops , I did some further research on this question last night and I think you are correct that it is likely Part #80082 (although the Atwood documentation alternatively identifies it as #80083, without differentiating between the two numbers, at least that I could find.)  I narrowed it down to that one, or Part #80051; however, that particular model has a 3" wide channel (the straight section), attaches with two bolts, and is a Class 2 coupler.  Looking only at my photo, the coupler on my camper appears to have a narrower channel (probably 2" wide) and probably welded on, which is consistent with #80082 (a Class 3 coupler.)

Because the photos I have of my coupler are insufficient to resolve which model I have, next time I go to where my camper is stored, I plan to take a closer look at the coupler to determine (1) how it is attached to the A-Frame (it does appear to be welded), (2) measure the width of the channel, and (3) use a flashlight to look down into the channel housing to see if the part number is stamped on the top of the channel.  Although probably not applicable to exactly what is on my camper, if anyone is curious, I found this video of #80051 on eTrailer.com:

https://www.etrailer.com/comparison.aspx?pc=AT80082&pc2=AT80051   

SIDE NOTE:  Just an FYI...............I previously purchased a Fastway Fortress coupler lock (Model #86-00-5015 or #DT25013) and discovered that although designed for the Atwood Yoke Style coupler, it does not work with the straight channel version.  This is because the detent ball head on the Fastway lock is not tall enough to engage with the Atwood coupler lock.  If anyone happens to be using the Fastway lock with the straight channel coupler, check to see if the detent ball head on the Fastway lock actually locks in place when the Atwood coupler latch is in the closed/locked position.  If not, when you release your hold on the lock bar/body of the Fastway lock (i.e., when the shackle is not yet attached) it will fall to the ground.  Also, when the shackle is locked in place, even though it may appear secure, it is actually very easy to dislodge the shackle by either prying it off the coupler, or striking the shackle with a hammer.  That is why I have ordered the Proven Industries lock, which I know will work and provide much better security.

tybladesmith

I have a PI 2178-A for my 2018 T@B320S BD and fits perfectly.


I hope the pictures answer the real question. Note the chains and hooks are locked in the box.

Bayliss

@tybladesmith, thank you for posting the photos.  I was curious how it would look once installed.  Now I know, thanks to you!  (Greg)

MuttonChops

@Bayliss , @tybladesmith
I've been using two (cheap) Master Locks (ball and coupler lock pin) as well as TriMax Wheel Lock but am starting to think it is time for a real tongue lock.

Did either of you consider the Fort Knox or 'The Vault' by Megahitchlock before selecting the Proven brand/model ?

Fort Knox, $198 if you buy their puck lock $149 if you use your own,  is lighter steel & hinged, has a punk lock, and covers the coupler lever/lock pin area.

"The Vault", $199, does not use a puck lock or cover the coupler lever/lock pin area.

Both have can't be broken destruction videos like the Proven Product.

Bayliss

@MuttonChops , no, I did not consider either of those locks, mainly because I was not aware of them until reading your post. They both appear to be good locks, however. I was surprised to see that the Fort Knox lock could not be removed even after the lock hinge was cut. While looking at that video, I came across another video made by a guy who said his Proven Industries lock was compromised by someone taking the time to drill out the brass tumbler in the aluminum puck lock housing. His cargo trailer was not stolen, however, because he also had a Proven Industries wheel lock, which they could not get off.  It sounds like his trailer was parked in an unlit industrial area, which gave the thief time and cover to drill out the lock mechanism. Regardless, that was the first time I had any indication of the lock being successfully compromised.  But, that is a possibility with any lock..........it all depends on how much time the thief has, and if they have the right tools.  Bottom line is that each of the locks discussed here will do the job, but I like that I can also lock up the tow chains with the Proven Industries lock.  Current cost is $235 + shipping ($15 is cheapest/standard rate.)  (Greg)

tybladesmith

@MuttonChops, I was not aware of the Fort Knox or Vault locks when I did my research and purchase. I do not regret my purchase. I also use a Brahma WL 001 for 15 - 17”  by 235 tire, wheels, shallow dish for aluminum wheels.

Bayliss

@MuttonChops, @tybladesmith, @Sharon_is_SAM and @jgram2 .............. I got a chance to go look at the coupler on my camper this afternoon.  Based on what is stamped in very small print in the metal on the top of the straight tongue coupler, it appears to be Part Number 80186 and is a Class 4 coupler capable of 700 lbs. of tongue weight.  The design is identical to #80082 and #80083, which are Class 3 couplers.  Not sure what to make of that.......identical in design and appearance, but different weight capacities????  [NOTE:  I also found a 2003 Atwood factory document, which indicates that #80186 is a Class 3 coupler, but mine is stamped Class 4.)  The channel width (measured from the inside space of the channel) is 2"; the exterior width on mine is approximately 2 5/8".

Although I could not clearly read the rated weight capacity stamped on my coupler, the document I found on the Internet indicates that the capacity is 6,000 lbs., which is consistent with what I believe the stamp on mine reads.  Significantly greater than what I would expect for a T@B 320S.

Thanks again for everyone's input.  (Greg)

MuttonChops

@Bayliss   @tybladesmith

We Have Another Proven Industries Coupler Lock  - SOLD -
Arrived today.

Bayliss

Congrats, @MuttonChops.  It definitely is a beefy lock.

b407driver

Just out of curiosity, what's to prevent the thief from looping their own chain through the slack of chain underneath the Proven Industries lock, then securing said chain to their own tow vehicle? For a quick getaway, doesn't seem like it would be much different?

Trying to figure out security options for our impending T@b400, but the Brahma wheel lock just seems like it's so cumbersome to install that I can't imagine my wife ever using it. 

Has anyone ever used Proven Industries' wheel lock on a T@b? They only list one tire size on their website, which seems odd.

tybladesmith

@b407driver, you are right about the chains - don't be giving the bad guys ideas. 

The PI wheel lock is only for trailers without brakes and with leaf spring suspension, and not Dexter Torflex axles like T@B.
https://www.provenlocks.com/collections/wheel-locks/products/wheel-lock-model-wl-100
Read the Attention: message

I have both the PI and Brahma locks. Expensive but they give peace of mind- (or did). LOL

b407driver

@tybladesmith sorry, just thinking out loud...

I was thinking of PI's WB-300 Wheel Boot (sorry, not 'lock'), which is listed as only compatible with size 205/75/15 tires. Still doesn't cover the lugs, so at $299, starting to get real steep.

Seems like the Brahma is the only reasonable option for (truly) protecting the trailer from being stolen, while the PI-278A coupler lock would at least slow down casual thieves from a quick getaway.

N7SHG_Ham

@b407driver I bought the Brahma after coming to same conclusion and just use a run of the mill hitch coupler lock.

While the Brahma is indeed heavy and a bit awkward to install, if you have decent physical strength and can sit on ground (and get up again) it really isn't bad once you figure out the puzzle so to speak. I seriously doubt a thief will make off with a trailer or vehicle with that wheel lock installed, not without power cut off Saws or a torch anyway.

trimtab

Not a fan of the coupler  on our 2020 320-s.

Sharon_is_SAM

This will help.  https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/comment/93958#Comment_93958

Don’t use a hammer or crow bar - you will damage your coupler.  There is a learning curve.  If you are not level, or you are trying to close the coupler while still on blocks, you will need to pull the trailer off your levelers and then close the coupler.

Marceline

trimtab said:

Not a fan of the coupler  on our 2020 320-s.
Had to use a slim crow-bar to release it..wtf? ( whats the fault )

After you back into your spot, nudge forward just a bit. This changes the pressure on the coupler and should be enough to release it. 

jkjenn

Marceline said:

trimtab said:

Not a fan of the coupler  on our 2020 320-s.
Had to use a slim crow-bar to release it..wtf? ( whats the fault )

After you back into your spot, nudge forward just a bit. This changes the pressure on the coupler and should be enough to release it. 

They key is to relieve the weight that is forward on the hitch. 

Bayliss

@trimtab, take a look at the videos here as well:

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/comment/83154#Comment_83154

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2O5YQUa4WxM&feature=emb_err_woyt

ChrisFix

b407driver said:

Just out of curiosity, what's to prevent the thief from looping their own chain through the slack of chain underneath the Proven Industries lock, then securing said chain to their own tow vehicle? For a quick getaway, doesn't seem like it would be much different?

Trying to figure out security options for our impending T@b400, but the Brahma wheel lock just seems like it's so cumbersome to install that I can't imagine my wife ever using it. 

Has anyone ever used Proven Industries' wheel lock on a T@b? They only list one tire size on their website, which seems odd.

I spoke with the owner at Ft. Knox locks...and he said the same thing about the chains. Basically said by locking your chains you create a nice secure loop of chain to hook onto as you surmised. His thought was that the only defeat for that was to have a removable link in the chains so you just take them off when parked.
Perhaps the Brahma is truly the better money to spend. I'm a bit put off by the size and weight to be carried around, but I don't think I can find fault in how secure it would be.