Factory Solar and power production

Cbusguy

After about 6 weekends out with the camper and experimenting with trailer positioning and solar,    I have got to be missing something.       Never does the charge current go above 6 amps and then drops off pretty quickly unless I repositioned the trailer.    I intentionally depleted the battery's to about 50 percent using the refrigerator on 12 Volt and was very disappointed in what I was seeing in charge rates.

So what are you seeing?   I am wondering if I have damaged or bad panels.

I thought I read somewhere that the panels were 160 watt........so quick math based on an 18 volt panel output is roughly 9 amps with an output through the victron in the ballpark of 14 amps at 12 volts.   


A couple of thoughts on the performance,   the mounting isn't optimal,  curved surface.....getting optimal sun exposure for more than an hour is a problem....again hoping I don't have damaged panels

ScottG

I think all the variables you mentioned probably keep your exposure significantly below optimal--even if it doesn't seem that way.

You've made your feelings on "solar briefcases" clear, but one advantage they offer is greater flexibility in placement and periodic repositioning. Even then I rarely see maximum charge current from mine. I'm no solar guru, but I suspect your panels are performing normally.

Cbusguy

@ScottG

You misunderstand my statement regarding solar briefcases.........For what they are they are really over priced,  a pwm controler $20,  two 50 watt solar panels  $50 each in a neat case.......for an asking price of $278 current amazon renogy price.   


I had always intended to use ground based panels to chase the sun.  It was a factory mistake that I ended up with solar on my trailer.

I was wondering what the others who have the factory installed solar were seeing performance wise.   Hopefully some one will chime in.

ScottG

I recalled your cost-based argument about the suitcases, but was surprised that you had shelled out for what is certainly a premium- priced factory option (not that there is anything wrong with doing so). I forgot that you had acquired the built-in solar by happy accident.

Given my experience with the ground-based panels, I'm also curious to hear what others are getting from their rooftop units, and under what conditions. I think I spend too much time under the trees to make those work for me.

pthomas745

I have a flex panel that I used for a year or so, putting the heavy glass panel back in storage.  I didn't exactly take great care of the flex panel, admittedly, but nothing rough.  Bought a Victron for Christmas, made a few trips and took all the numbers from the flex panel for granted.  Switched out the flex panel for the glass panel a week ago and immediately noted how many more amps are moving.  More diagnostics are needed.  I would say the best way to determine if your built in panels are working well is to try another panel (if that is possible.)

Cbusguy

@ScottG I did not pay for the factory installed solar.   It was their mistake and was no charge.   I was given the choice to wait another 6 weeks for another trailer to be built or take it as built.    free solar or wait another 6 weeks.   

Seems like a no brainer.

Despite the fact it was free, It should work properly.

Like you I would not park the trailer in the sun just for solar and the reason I would use ground based solar.

Cbusguy

Interesting how no one else with factory installed has spoken up.

Lets just say I am really glad I didn't pay for it

I will say you are much better off taking the money for the factory installed solar and buying panels on amazon and a mppt control and using them on the ground.

Experimented last night after work and found that at 5:30 pm with 2 no name 100 watt solar panels I got 12 amps of charge at 13.8 volts.     the cost for that system is about $400 plus the tme to install it.

Is the built in solar just a really large battery maintainer?

jkjenn

@Cbusguy a few questions: do you have a 400 or 320? The factory panels on a 320 are only 130w. Do you have the new Sunflare panel or the older style flex panel? Is it the Victron controller?

I have the solar and have had minimal opportunity to test it, yet. My big trip is coming out this fall and I will be able to really get a better taste for it. So far, in basic backyard testing, it has been great.

If you are not getting optimal results and are using a Victron controller and Victron BMV, you tweak your charge settings to match your battery set up. The 2 Victron devices can be connected wirelessly to form a network and optimize performance.I tweaked my numbers on the BMV and it made a notable difference. 

Lastly, you did not mention what charging state you were in and what your SOC and Voltage were when you were only yielding 6 amps.

Personally, I believe the factory solar is the right solution for the right person. I recently wrote a blog post that identified different type of camping styles and the most likely preferred setup based on styles. For me, right now, the factory solar with 2 6v batteries seems like the best setup. I am ge really only at the same site for up to 5 days, drive long distances, and am focused on reducing what I need to stow and setup and tear down time. It is not the right solution for everyone but it is for people who do not want to fool with learning more about solar or people who prioritize ease of setup.

ScottG

Cbusguy said:

Interesting how no one else with factory installed has spoken up.
...

It's possible that people just aren't monitoring their systems as closely as you are. Factory solar is a relatively recent option and I suspect for many who have it if everything is working well enough they don't sweat the details. Nuttin' wrong with that--after all, the R in RV does stand for recreational.  ;-)

Now that you have raised the question, maybe some of the more tech-minded owners will gather and report some corroborating data.

Verna

I didn't answer because my panels are from a different manufacturer no longer used by nüCamp. I am pleased with them as they supply plenty of power for me to camp all winter  without electricity. 

Cbusguy

I have a 320 and didn't realize it was a 130 watt panel.   The trailer is a 2020 320.    Nucamp is so great with putting specs out,   I received zero documentation regarding the panels in my document bag.

I have battleborn batterys and have adjusted the victron charger to their recommended voltages and times.....and yes I have linked the 712 and the solar charge controller together using the victron network feature in the app.      

Just a note to other battleborn users,   the batterys have their own Battery management system built in and they do some unexpected things,   the biggest surprise for me was they don't immediately start to charge once the battery voltage drops,   and they will take every bit of charge current you will throw at them.    I watched it charge at 60 amps and they can be charged at a currents up to their capacity or 100 amps.   When the Batterys battery management system thinks it is full,  it stops charging,  I mean stops taking zero amps.  not like a lead acid that always has a trickle charge.

doing some quick math, the panel production is off by about 30 percent which I can write off to the way they are mounted on the trailer.   

charging from the tow vehicle through the trailer plug I am seeing about 5 amps.   Through the heavier gage wire and the renogy dc to dc charger I get the advertised 20 amps.     On AC power the trailer charges at about 5 amps as well.   

Michigan_Mike

My 2019 T@B 400 was the first unit to receive the single 190 watt flexible panel on the roof.  I’m not a tech wiz, nor do I sit around during the day monitoring the amperage/voltage output of the single panel.  I’m like Scott, I am out doing the”R” portion of RV, enjoying life, exploring and having fun as time permits.  😀👍🏻

I HAVE done some remote camping on BLM lands and will say that the solar does keep up with things in the trailer in optimum sunlight conditions.  The frig is the only issue in the trailer as it is an energy hog on 12 volts.  I also use a CPAP (minus the humidifier) and if things were tight I could always supplement my power needs by deploying my 200 watt Zamp array and accelerating the solar charge rate.  

But will also add that I do park the trailer in AZ during the winter when we are living in the 29’ fixed travel trailer and the solar on the 400 easily tops off the batteries daily and things are fine.  So far I am very pleased with the solar portion of the trailer, but would obviously need a generator to supplement things if we camped under a canopy of trees in a remote state or federal campsite without shore power.  

Cbusguy

@Michigan_Mike I appreciate the R aspect,    with only a couple of months in the new camper i am still chasing what I need to be self sustaining and Like you I rely on cpap.  So running short on power over night is a concern,  my cpap machine is very frugal with an average amp draw of less that 1.5 amps. 

My fridge on DC is a beast drawing 11.5 amps,   propane solves that.   

so like jkenn  I am trying to fill out the blanks in the spreadsheet and make sure at 6 am my batterys are on the plus side of 12 volts.   

jkjenn

The R aspect is why I went with factory solar.