ATTENTION! - Special Factory Maintenance Notice

We noted this advisory with great interest and went ahead with the checks as we were setting out on a week long trip to Kentucky from our home in Florida.  

We found it extremely difficult to see under the door but it seemed to look good there.  We checked the joints between the under side of the floor and the wheel well shown in the photos, joints are parallel to the axle.  These looked OK but will check them again when we have access to water to clean away the dirt thrown by the tire.  We had to work at the lot where we store the T@B.

We took a deep breath and removed the fenders and were glad we did as the caulk was broken to some extent in the upper joints on both sides of the T@B. 

This is an in process photo.  You can see where we forced silicone sealer into the joint in question.  On this side the black plastic wheel well had only 3 screws in the flange as shown.  We added a couple of more to limit motion and hold the sealer in place.  We did work at smoothing the joint better.

This was not a difficult project, just time consuming.  We had had not noticed leaks but are glad of the warning and having checked.  LG should look into finding a way to make the joint lap the opposite way so water runs over rather than into it.

You can see how tightening the screws oozed the sealer out

John_and_Kris I am referring to the screws that secure the wheel well liner to the wall of the T@B one is shown close up in my second photo .  We had been able to work sealant down between the grey wall of the T@B and lip of black wheel well liner as there were few screws securing this joint and in some cases they were loose.  When we installed additional or tightened the existing screws the sealant we had applied in this joint oozed back out to some extent.  We felt this was a good result as it meant we had gotten sealant well down into the joint. 

The fenders are secured to grey wall with 5 screws, you can see the 5 locations in my top photo, plus two that screw into the trim piece from the bottom shown in Michigan_MIke's photo.  Note that the fender was not totally sealed to the wall of the T@B just the 5 screw holes and their screws were sealed.  

Dave and Katie

Is there a maintenance clinic scheduled for tearstock? I think this is a great idea and will really add value to the experience. Any opportunity to learn more about our new tab and how to maintain it is something that little guy should sponsor. If not maybe some more experinced tab owners could provide an ad hoc session that provides the novice with operational and maintenance tips. 

This question has been here a while, so if you go to an RV repair shop they will do most anything you will pay for. If this is something you are not comfortable doing, I would suggest you go to an independent repair shop or perhaps a larger shop like Camping World or others. Ask their hourly rate and wait for the work to be done. The best solution of course is to have it done at PV.

One thing I remember from my motorhome days is NEVER use silicon on fiberglass. It won't stick and leaves a film that will prevent any other sealant from sticking. I used a lap seal made for rv;s.

ChanW said:

Interesting to know! ... But I can't think of any fiberglass in the Tab. Is there some?

RollingBnB said:

One thing I remember from my motorhome days is NEVER use silicon on fiberglass. It won't stick and leaves a film that will prevent any other sealant from sticking. I used a lap seal made for rv;s.

nuCamp RV uses Fiberglass and Azdel Sidewall Construction in its campers for serious wall construction. Azdel Composite Panels are constructed using a blend of polypropylene and fiberglass, creating an extremely strong and lightweight wall. Most noteworthy, the top features of using Fiberglass and Azdel Sidewall in campers

Has anyone used 3M 4200 sealant on the caulked T@B joints?
As a former boater I’ve used this above and below the waterline. It is an excellent performer that will withstand heat/cold, stress and vibration exceptionally well.

The 3M 5200 is great too, the only caveat is to use it on things you do not plan on taking apart.
The 4200 should be used on parts that have to periodically be disassembled.

Not sure what I’m looking at? Is that damaged foam sealing strip or what? Not that I would know, just trying to be proactive.

We have a 21 T@b 400 solo .We had water show up after a 5 hr tow in the rain  Drivers side looked like it came from under the bed.You all think I have bad seal in this area. Thanks

I had a leak there also It was the out side edge of that box.I sealed it with Mortite rope caulk pushed into the gap all around the gap inside of the box where it meets the wall.