ATTENTION! - Special Factory Maintenance Notice

Michigan_Mike

This information was passed along to me by the factory and they asked that we share this with forum members, so please take a few moments to read it:

If your trailer is 1 year or older, we want to encourage you to properly maintain it.  As you prepare for the camping season, it is vital that you do this – and it’s the perfect time before you start travelling/camping. 

 

Perhaps the most important thing you can do is to check the seals.  If any of the seals are cracked, you must re-caulk them.  From time to time we have clients contact us with 2 and 3 year old trailers that have experienced some level of water damage.  Upon investigation, the reason, more often than not, is that they did not stay on top of the seals.  We don’t want anyone to experience water damage – it can lead to something ugly, like stained or swollen wood or something horrendous like an entire floor or sidewall replacement, depending on the trailer. 

 

For those of you that have T@Bs, please pay close attention to 3 areas more vulnerable to water than anywhere else: 

1.  Under the wheel well  

2.  Behind the fender - caulk between the sidewall and wheel well – there is a great amount of flex/movement at this location and it will break the seal.

3.   Under the door frame

4.  Please refer to the attached photos to show exactly where we are advising you to re-seal on an annual basis. 

As always, you can contact our warranty and repair departments for assistance in any matter: 

warranty@nucamprv.com     repairs@nucamprv.com  

kybob

Thank you, Mike. This would be something nice that they could show us how to do in person at Tearstock. It would be nice to have a general maintenance workshop sometime during the event. 

jkjenn

Thank you, Mike. Just to clarify, for the door is it here:


or here?


And for behind the fender, is it here?

Michigan_Mike

I'm not certain and did send a note back to the factory (asking for further clarification on this) and will post up their detailed response as soon as I receive more information.

Thanks for asking!  

jkjenn

Thanks, Mike!

Allie

These are good things to know about.  What type of caulk should we be using?

bbrimms

Thanks and waiting for clarification. Stated 3 areas and only 2 photos.

Same thing in my job. They have to understand most of us are greener than green. A little hand holding goes a long way. 

Photomom

kybob said:

Thank you, Mike. This would be something nice that they could show us how to do in person at Tearstock. It would be nice to have a general maintenance workshop sometime during the event. 

What a great idea! I'd bet this would get a lot of people who've bought trailers in the previous year. 

Also bearing maintenance, Alde maintenance, etc. 

Michigan_Mike

From the factory this AM:

1.   Door. Yes, under the silver door frame, not under the (red) trim.

2.   Fender. There was no picture of that.  If you look at your trailer from the side, you will need to remove the actual fender – 7 total screws.  5 on the fender itself…Be careful not to miss the 2 on the bottom that screw into the adjacent trim pieces.

3.   Wheel Well.  The picture of the black material with black caulk is for the wheel well.  Caulk both sides.

4.   Kind of caulk to use:  Any caulk that is exterior protected.

LorieT

Thx for this info -- not to sound redundant, but I also hope they show us this at Tearstock.

kybob

Or post a how to video on line. Some of us are a bit more challenged at these things. 

John_and_Kris

Talked with Ed at the Factory and he will get with Marvin to get a picture of the Fender Maintenance to Mike for posting.

ChanW

KyBob, I think the video is left to us, the support group, to come up with. This service item would usually be a dealer type of maintenance thing, I'd think, unless you're a do-it-yourself kind of owner (which of course many here are...)

There is a video someplace online about applying caulk to an RV. I'll see if I can find a link.

kybob said:

Or post a how to video on line. Some of us are a bit more challenged at these things. 

jkjenn

Thanks, Mike. I am getting ready for a trip in a few weeks and this will be on the trip prep list, now.

RZRBUG

This was not a difficult task.  It does require scooting around on your back and being a bit of a contortionist, but fairly simple.  Here are some observations:

1)  Wear safety goggles as you will be on your back part of the time looking up at your work.  Dirt and road grime could fall into your eyes.
2)  Get in a position to check out the areas with a flashlight before taking the fenders off.  You may find that the original caulk is still fine.
3)  If you add caulk, I suggest trying to do it without taking the fenders off first.  Removing screws from fiberglass tends to weaken its anchoring capacity.
4)  Have some type of container to place the screws in if you remove the fenders.  They are easily lost.
5)  If removing the fender(s), take the bottom screws out first and replace them last.  These are the ones on each end underneath.  Makes them easier to handle.
6)  When replacing the screws, remember snug them up but don't over-tighten.  You don't want to strip them.
7)  If you really want easy access, you can remove the tires.  Perhaps you could do the job next time you repack your bearings.
8)  Have old rags or paper towels handy to wipe off all the dirt/road grime before applying caulk so that it will adhere better.  You'll need them for cleanup.

jkjenn

Thanks, Larry!

Photomom

Do you need to remove old caulk before applying new?

RZRBUG

Photomom said:

Do you need to remove old caulk before applying new?

I didn't and wouldn't.  The original stuff sticks pretty good.  Actually, the original was still in excellent condition.  I just added a dab here and there to be safe.

Ramrod

Thanks!

ChanW

Avoid alcohol, it retards curing. My doctor says the same thing. B-) heh.

Nomad

ChanW - True, alcohol does retard curing but it's great at pickling.

Jltab

  Have a wonderful week everyone.

Michigan_Mike

John_and_Kris said:

Talked with Ed at the Factory and he will get with Marvin to get a picture of the Fender Maintenance to Mike for posting.

Here's the photo you are referring to John.

Wanderoo

Thanks Larry, Mike, and everyone else who is scouting out this maintenance issue for us T@B owners.  I truly appreciate it -- I'm a girl, and I wouldn't think of these things.  My tab is three years old now and I will be taking her on a 3,000 mile trip this summer.  Want to be sure all my caulk is in tip-top condition -- thanks again. 

XPADREX

What kind of caulk for the vent, etc? With rubber (EPDM), it was a Dicor lap sealant- but as this is alumaskin, what then?

XPADREX

To clarify: what to use on roof, ex. roof fantastic fan (not vent). 

RZRBUG

XPADREX said:

To clarify: what to use on roof, ex. roof fantastic fan (not vent). 

David, I think any good exterior caulk will be fine.

It is good to hear from you again.  Hope all is well.

John_and_Kris

Thanks Mike: Is there a way not to have to remove the fender and inspect in place and caulk around areas on top and underneath where it is in contact with the body?

Michigan_Mike

XPADREX said:

What kind of caulk for the vent, etc? With rubber (EPDM), it was a Dicor lap sealant- but as this is alumaskin, what then?

I'd stick to the Dicor lap sealant and most RV shops carry the appropriate product for roof vents.  My first Little Guy (a 4-wide) needed a new roof vent and I found out that nothing had been used to seal up the roof vent area and I used the lap sealant.   

John_and_Kris said:

Thanks Mike: Is there a way not to have to remove the fender and inspect in place and caulk around areas on top and underneath where it is in contact with the body?

I believe that you can visually inspect the area (without the need to remove the fender) to see if the caulk is starting to crack John.  

I have found that the GooGone spray product works excellent when removing silicone based caulk.  I used it when I did work on a roof vent about 5 years ago and if you spray it on and let it sit for a while it does loosen up the caulk and you can peel it off.  

XPADREX

Thanks, gentlemen! Good to see you all as well.

sabel

I'd add the plastic wall / roof trim joints at the very top of the roof. Both the plastic and silicone sealant were cracked on mine.