Tongue wheel removal when camping

Do whatever you feel is more convenient.  I tend to avoid using the wheel at the campsite, unless I want to manipulate the trailer by hand.  In those scenarios where I do, I tend to leave the wheel on.  The wheel can take a fair bit of abuse in my experience. 

pthomas745 said:

I always think of the wheel as the "fifth stabilizer".  I feel it just adds a little more support to all that weight up on the front of the trailer.

Denny16 said:

You can get a flat metal plate that attaches to the jack like the wheel does, and provides a more stable support point, with the larger area of the wheel.  I usually place a 2x6 block under the pad to increase the ground pressure area and reduce the amount of cranking to level the trailer.
cheers

When not using the wheel, I just set the jack post directly on the 2x6 wood blocks. 

@Tampakayaker x 2.

Henriette said:

I have a Tab 320 S, 2019. I usually leave my tongue wheel on when camping. Should I? Or would it be better to remove the little wheel and place a block to stabilize? Is there a concern that keeping the wheel on would cause breakage to the wheel if left on when camping?

It's fine to leave the wheel on. The advantage is that you can move the trailer after unhooking.  If your aim isn't terribly good when you're backing up this can help when you're hooking back up again.

On the other hand, if you put a big block underneath the jack tube instead, you can save yourself some cranking. 

One thing I will caution you about or basically something to keep in mind is this, I used a piece of 4 x 4 treated block religiously until last year.  I had parked my 400 in Arizona and had placed the 4 inch block under the tongue. I had the flat metal foot at the bottom of the tongue jack in place of the wheel as the wheel is useless in loose soil.  While I was running the front stabilizers down and after having one stabilizer down, a gust of wind came along and hit the side of the trailer causing the trailer to shift and come off the 4 x 4 block.  As a result of the trailer coming off the wood both front stabilizer’s were down but the weight of the trailer buckled the front stabilizers.  If you are going to use wood I would recommend a piece of 2 x 6 or something wider than a 4 x 4 treated lumber and you shouldn’t have any issues.

I’ve used a metal foot under the tongue jack on both my for T@B S Max and my current T@B 400. I also put a stack of 4 yellow plastic jack pads (with their Velcro tie to keep them together) under the foot before I put the weight on it. This keeps the foot out of the mud or sand or whatever, and it works well. It’s only about 4” to 4” tall but they work well. They’ve been through 5 years of weight between both T@B and they are currently under the tongue jack back by the barn. 

Verna said:

I’ve used a metal foot under the tongue jack on both my for T@B S Max and my current T@B 400. I also put a stack of 4 yellow plastic jack pads (with their Velcro tie to keep them together) under the foot before I put the weight on it. This keeps the foot out of the mud or sand or whatever, and it works well. It’s only about 4” to 4” tall but they work well. They’ve been through 5 years of weight between both T@B and they are currently under the tongue jack back by the barn. 

I've been using 3-4 of the yellow "lego" blocks lately with no foot at all. The tube fits nicely between the raised ridges so I'm pretty sure it's not going to slide anywhere.

I swapped my wheel for the flat plate mainly because I've had the trailer move sideways when boondocking with the wheel in place. The plate is slightly more stable. The only downside is if you are on a very flat pad you don't have the ability toe move the trailer manually.

gspdx said:

@Cherokee- I love those wheel chocks.  Where did you buy them