2023 400 with the 400 ah Lithium mod. Victron Inverter.

ChrisFix · March 2

elbolillo said:

Looking at the images that I have seen of the NuCamp install of the Multiplus 3000w inverter, they appear to run a wire from the chassis ground of the Multiplus over to the load side of the SmartShunt.

Exactly. If you go up a few posts, you can see it clearly in the photo. They use the Smart Shunt as a negative bus. I'm planning on using a proper positive and negative bus bar when I do my install.

elbolillo · March 2

ChrisFix said:

elbolillo said:

Looking at the images that I have seen of the NuCamp install of the Multiplus 3000w inverter, they appear to run a wire from the chassis ground of the Multiplus over to the load side of the SmartShunt.

Exactly. If you go up a few posts, you can see it clearly in the photo. They use the Smart Shunt as a negative bus. I'm planning on using a proper positive and negative bus bar when I do my install.

Totally missed that. I also used bus bars for my installation. I also added an additional battery disconnect to the positive cable between the Multiplus and the Smart Shunt. This way I can isolate the Multiplus completely from the batteries.

Hammick · March 8

Guys I just purchased a '23 400 that had the Lithium upgraded done immediately after purchase. They added a solar input port close to the shore power input and installed an additional CC for it. It's a Victron 75/10. We currently have it opened up for cleaning and inspection so if anyone needs specific photos let me know.

The additional CC was installed just below the fridge on the left side. The original 75/15 is under the bed.

elbolillo · March 8

Hammick said:

Guys I just purchased a '23 400 that had the Lithium upgraded done immediately after purchase. They added a solar input port close to the shore power input and installed an additional CC for it. It's a Victron 75/10. We currently have it opened up for cleaning and inspection so if anyone needs specific photos let me know.

The additional CC was installed just below the fridge on the left side. The original 75/15 is under the bed.

Please send all the detailed photos of the install as you can. I would love to see how it was done.

Denny16 · March 8

Sweet, but the new Victron 75/10 is only going to support a total of 100-125 watts of solar panels. It will work nicely for the small portable units that are available. Be careful not to overload its capacity.
cheers

Hammick · March 9

Denny16 said:

Sweet, but the new Victron 75/10 is only going to support a total of 100-125 watts of solar panels. It will work nicely for the small portable units that are available. Be careful not to overload its capacity.
cheers

It's been awhile since I've done panel calculations but shouldn't the 75/10 be able to accept three 100 watt panels in series if they have an open circuit voltage of 24.5 volts? Probably no point since the CC will limit the power output.

I'll probably get the 100/50 CC so I can use seven of these panels if needed.

https://yargopower.com/products/yargo-100w-portable-solar-panel-for-power-station

Denny16 · March 9

Hammick installed the 75/10 with his lithium upgrade for his external solar charging port. nüCamp uses a Victron 75/15 on the TaB400, which can handle the 200-watts of roof top solar. I got a second Victron 75/15 to put on my external Solar charge port, used by the portable solar panels, which supports 200-watts. The factory installed external Solar charge port is wired directs the battery bank. You need to use portable panels with Thor own solar controller, or add one.

cheers

Hammick · March 9

Denny16 said:

Ham ick installed the 75/10 with his lithium upgrade for his external solar charging port. nüCamp uses a Victron 75/15 on the TaB400, which can handle the 200-watts of roof top solar. I got a second Victron 75/15 to put on my external Solar charge port, used by the portable solar panels, which supports 200-watts. The factory installed external Solar charge port is wired directs the battery bank. You need to use portable panels with Thor own solar controller, or add one.
cheers

NuCamp did the external port install as part of the Lithium upgrade and used the 75/10 CC. No idea why since the 75/15 is only a few $$$ more and they obviously have them. It's my understanding NuCamp quit including the external solar port as standard because some people didn't realize they need to use an inline charge controller.

Denny16 · March 9

OK, I thought you said the upgrade was done when you bought it, and assumed your dealer did the upgrade, not nüCamp. Thanks for clarifying this.
cheers

Hammick · March 11

Denny16 said:

OK, I thought you said the upgrade was done when you bought it, and assumed your dealer did the upgrade, not nüCamp. Thanks for clarifying this.
cheers

What charge controller is NuCamp using on the Black Canyon package with 620 watts of rooftop solar?

I'm the second owner. Original owner purchased it at Miller Trailer and then drove to the NuCamp factory for the upgrade.

Hammick · March 11

elbolillo said:

Hammick said:

Guys I just purchased a '23 400 that had the Lithium upgraded done immediately after purchase. They added a solar input port close to the shore power input and installed an additional CC for it. It's a Victron 75/10. We currently have it opened up for cleaning and inspection so if anyone needs specific photos let me know.

The additional CC was installed just below the fridge on the left side. The original 75/15 is under the bed.

Please send all the detailed photos of the install as you can. I would love to see how it was done.

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/fk/xnwibjptdix0.jpeg

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/2q/bzunq67jgzgr.jpeg

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/uh/ob4xd9w83l6l.jpeg

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/jp/3snto6djsds1.jpeg

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/1z/ju4xw11kow90.jpeg

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/4i/3ojvrljgqg43.jpeg

Hammick · March 11

Installed an MK3 today so I could program my Multiplus. They have a USB C version now. Glad I did as it had some settings wrong. Most notably it had temperature compensation enabled. I put the MK3 in the area behind the disconnect. Then fished the USB C cable up by the mattress so I can easily access it without removing the panel under the bed.

Updated the firmware on the Multiplus and there is a great new feature that prioritizes solar. It allows you to set a voltage when the Multiplus charger is disabled so your solar can finish the job. If the batteries fall below the set voltage the charger kicks back on.

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/7r/5fw86wm9jsdm.jpeg

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/6h/j8151dcpshtz.jpeg

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/xw/nb5amdbi922h.jpeg

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/zo/55yhaoqd1lnm.jpeg

B0atguy · April 29

@Hammick ,

Just wondering what inline fuse size is being used between the batteries and inverter ? (in this picture).

I am setting up a similair 400ah / 3000w inverter charger set-up in our 24 400 except using Renogy components. I am confused on the proper fuse size to use for this application . Will prob use a T class fuse , just unsure what size .

Thanks !

.

elbolillo · April 29

@B0atguy I used a 300amp Victron mega fuse.

B0atguy · April 30

elbolillo said:

@B0atguy I used a 300amp Victron mega fuse.

Thanks @elbolillo !
Was thinking a 250 or 300 .
Will do a 300 !

Hammick · May 3

It’s a 300 amp fuse in my factory setup.

Sorry I was wrong. Our 2023 TAB 400 that had the Lithium upgrade done at NuCamp after the sale has a 200 amp blade fuse on the positive battery cable going to the Multiplus. All battery wires and interconnects are 2/0

B0atguy · May 3

Hammick said:

It’s a 300 amp fuse in my factory setup.

Thanks !

I did get the 300 .

Also wondering what size battery cable the factory and anyone who upgraded to this system used ? I purchased 4/0 , but in some of the pictures it looks like 2/0 might have been used ? I figured the 4/0 was a safe bet , but its pretty big cable to work with , and pretty spendy !

elbolillo · May 3

@B0atguy I used 2/0 wire. This was the recommendation that I got when consulting with Battleborn. Others have suggested using 4/0. The factory uses 2/0

enzo86 · May 3

I am Installing the same inverter but I went with 4/0 cable with a 400 amp main fuse and a 300 amp fuse in the lynx distributor. This was based off several other installs I had seen and this blog post from Victron:

https://www.victronenergy.com/blog/2020/10/30/how-to-install-a-multiplus-inverter-charger/

Based on this sheet I think the Multiplus 3000 can surge close to 5000w (380 Amps@ 13v)

https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-Multiplus-inverter-charger_2kVA-and-3kVA-120V-US-EN.pdf

B0atguy · May 5

Making some progress , not finished but up and running !
I went with 4 Renogy , smart heated 100ah batteries x 4 = 400ah . I already had 2 of them from my previous camper , so instead of buying 3 more battleborns , I bought 2 more Renogys . Also installed a Renogy 3000w inverter / charger . Just waiting for the new Renogy ONE core monitor panel to show up , and have to mount the Renogy inverter remote . Will be installing the Renogy One, and Renogy inverter remote in the panel next to the Jensen audio system .
I uses 4/0 gauge wire , with 300amp ANL fuses . Not sure if I need to upgrade to 400 , but 300 is working fine so far.
I wish I trusted 2/0 gauge wire , because ........holy cow is that 4/0 HARD to work with for short runs. I suspect 2/0 would have been fine , but the factory uses 4/0 , so ........

Oh, the blue wires are CAT6 data cables for the smart battery function, so the batteries can "talk to each other" , then through the bluetooth BT-2 module , it will show me all the data through the Renogy App . Because they are "smart", no external shunt is needed . Its all done through the BMS's .

Will take some pictures of the monitor / inverter remote install when I get that done too .

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/81/rl4fcj84n9b5.jpg

elbolillo · May 6

@B0atguy Nucamp actually uses 2/0 for their installs.

B0atguy · May 6

elbolillo said:

@B0atguy Nucamp actually uses 2/0 for their installs.

Ok , 2/0 would have been a lot easier to work with ! Better safe that sorry I guess.

I must have been mistaken looking at some of the factory installs , looked like 4/0 to me . I missed where you already said the factory uses 2/0 , whoops !
Also, I went with 4/0 because the Renogy manual said for their 3000w inverter to use 4/0 and a 300 watt fuse. Will prob be keeping the 300 ANL . Just need to order some spares now.

Also , thinking aboout installing an RV Smart plug . Getting tired of the twist lock , threading the lock on . Matter of fact , I am going to order one now ! lol

elbolillo · May 6

@B0atguy I just picked up one of these to make connecting the cord much easier. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NI1BFC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

enzo86 · May 6

Nice Install @B0atguy

I just started on our 2022, still have a bit of woodwork to do and then onto the wiring. The 2022 didn't come with the nice battery compartment or the flat rear section for the Victron. Going with two 460AH batteries, yes I know we loose the storage but we didn't really use it anyway since it was difficult to get to with the bed being made.

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/7f/xxle8e2agxg3.png

rh5555 · May 6

Remember that two 4AWG cables in parallel can manage more current than one 2/0 AWG cable.

Likewise two 2AWG cables in parallel can manage more current than one 4/0 AWG cable.

Lighter weight cables are so much easier to manage. This is my 460 Ah install using 4AWG cabling:

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/34/p3yi4hpg5vln.jpg

kevmon · May 8

enzo86 said:

Nice Install @B0atguy

I just started on our 2022, still have a bit of woodwork to do and then onto the wiring. The 2022 didn't come with the nice battery compartment or the flat rear section for the Victron. Going with two 460AH batteries, yes I know we loose the storage but we didn't really use it anyway since it was difficult to get to with the bed being made.

I can’t express my jealously of this setup, @enzo86 920 ah!!!

B0atguy · May 11

enzo86 said:

Nice Install @B0atguy

I just started on our 2022, still have a bit of woodwork to do and then onto the wiring. The 2022 didn't come with the nice battery compartment or the flat rear section for the Victron. Going with two 460AH batteries, yes I know we loose the storage but we didn't really use it anyway since it was difficult to get to with the bed being made.

Nice set-up @enzo86 ! Over 900ah , wow ! Epoch batteries are top of the line , and reasonably priced for what you are getting .

We are not willing to loose the storage drawer under the bed , so we are limited to about 400ah size wise . The only way I can go with more capacity , is to move into the outside storage cubby .

B0atguy · May 11

Update to our set-up .
Pretty much all done -
400ah of Renogy Smart heated batteries , Renogy 3000w inverter charger, Renogy One Core monitor panel , (no shunt needed keeping it all Renogy with the smart batteries ) , BT2 Renogy bluetooth , Renogy remote inverter switch , 300amp ANL fuses using 4/0 wire. Victron 100/50 MPPT smart solar controller (had it already) . Installed a USB switch panel to cover the hole from the Aims inverter remote . Need to figure out what to do with the non-functioning/disconnected "heated battery" switch from the Battle Born (The Renogy's are automatic heating ). Still have the factory 310w solar , prob will get a portable 300-400 set-up , since the 2024 400 has the solar port back in place ! Also have a Honda 2200i when needed.

I like the Renogy One Core monitor as it includes RV leveling , both on the monitor , and via bluetooth on the app . Pretty sweet .

Considering getting rid of the Victron and getting a Renogy MPPT so everything is together on the same app , monitor panel . Possibly the Renogy 50amp MPPT - DC/DC combined unit.

Test runs are doing great . With the Inverter and A/C turned on full blast , looks like it will last for about 5 hours . Hopefully much longer than that once the RV is cooled down and the A/C is just cycling keeping the temp .

Wondering if anyone else is interested in listing the cost's involved in upgrading the standard NuCamp electrical system to a more robust system ?

I have heard the factory NuCamp 400ah system is $7995. Battle Born x4 , Victron Multiplus .

My 400ah , full RV Inverted system was just shy of $2800. (got some GREAT deals, direct with Renogy ) .
Hopefully will offset the cost with selling the Battle Born , Aims inverter , Victron 100/30 , Victron 100/50 (once I get the Renogy 50 DC/DC- MPPT), Victron smart shunt etc. on Facebook .

Pictures -

From this .........

To this ..........

elbolillo · May 12

@B0atguy I did my own installation using essentially the same equipment NuCamp uses on their 400ah package. I added a Victron MPPT 100/30 and external port as well. My cost for equipment and materials was around $5200.

This setup has been solid for us and we no longer lug our Honda 2200 generator with us.

I love the Battleborn Batteries, even though they do come at a premium. The tech staff at Battleborn are very helpful and responded promptly to all questions. Although if I were doing my install now, I would consider 2 of the 300ah Epoch LiFePo4 batteries. They come in at about the same weight as the 4 BB, but would have an additional 200ah.

enzo86 · May 12

making progress, DC side done and tested, man 4/0 is a real pain to work with... Need to work on the AC side next along with installing the Cerbo Screen etc. @B0atguy how hard was it to get to that Area above the fridge to mount the display ?

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