2023 400 with the 400 ah Lithium mod. Victron Inverter.

rh5555 · November 2025

Bad news regarding the Renology 300Ah batteries:

Cant beat the price . They are approx $1 . per AH (as of 8/2025). So , right around $900. for 900 AH .

Price has almost tripled since then... LiTime has this offering at only twice the price.

AnOldUR · November 2025

rh5555 said:

Bad news regarding the Renogy 300Ah batteries

For what it's worth, Dr Prepare batteries are made by Renogy. Their 300Ah LiFePO4 is now listed at $345 before discounts that are available.

https://drprepare.com/products/12v-300ah-lifepo4-lithium-battery-compact-size-10-year-warranty

400Family · November 2025

Hammick said:

elbolillo said:

Hammick said:

Guys I just purchased a '23 400 that had the Lithium upgraded done immediately after purchase. They added a solar input port close to the shore power input and installed an additional CC for it. It's a Victron 75/10. We currently have it opened up for cleaning and inspection so if anyone needs specific photos let me know.

The additional CC was installed just below the fridge on the left side. The original 75/15 is under the bed.

Please send all the detailed photos of the install as you can. I would love to see how it was done.

Great pics. Thank you! Is there no battery disconnect switch in this setup? I don’t see any wires running toward the storage area.

B0atguy · November 2025

Sorry for the late reply @400Family . Been out of the area for a few days . Was at the NuCamp factory in Ohio yesterday and today actually . Just getting some service and warranty work done .

Anyway , I do not believe the Renogy inverter has the option pull a certain amount of wattage from shore power or batteries at a specific wattage . There is a setting to prioritize the 120 draw from A/C directly , or battery power via the inverter . I just have mine set up as the default to pull directly from the 120v A/C and power evrything when the unit is plugged in , and charge the batteries at the same time. Have the charger amps set at 60amps . (can go as high as 75) . I also still have the factory converter charger as a backup that will charge at 55 amps via a dedicated breaker in the ac /dc panel . Dont use it often , but is available as a backup battery charge source should the Renogy inverter fail .

Yes, there is some wiring involved to power the whole camper via the inverter . This only works provided you have enough battery ah and inverter power . At least 400ah should be fine and 3000w inverter. The inverter has a transfer switch built in and a charger . The 120v input wiring that comes from the camper "plug in " inlet needs to run directly to the input of the inverter , then the output of the inverter will run to the ac/dc converter like how it was plugged into the input of the camper . Essentially , the inverter is just in-between the 120volt inlet and the factory ac/dc converter panel . I also did some wiring to separate the original powered outlets from the 1200w inverter to its own breaker , and have the converter battery charger on its own breaker so I can turn it on or off at will .

One thing that threw me a bit with the Renogy inverter is that there is no 120v pass through voltage when the inverter is not powered up . Not a big deal now that I am used to it . In other words , when the camper is plugged into 120v power nothing will work yet until you "turn on" the inverter . Once the inverter is powered on , it will allow the 120v power "through" the inverter to power up the camper and charge the batteries . Not sure if the Victron Multiplus is like this or not. .

Let me know if you have anymore questions !
Oh , Just an FYI - pretty much all the info and any pictures in this thread are ALL from T@B 400's . The 320 has a lot less battery "area" to work with , so not sure how people are setting the 320's up with batteries and inverters ?

B0atguy · November 2025

rh5555 said:

Bad news regarding the Renology 300Ah batteries:
Cant beat the price . They are approx $1 . per AH (as of 8/2025). So , right around $900. for 900 AH .
Price has almost tripled since then... LiTime has this offering at only twice the price.

That price was not for the Renogy 300ah batteries (which I believe are almost the exact same thing as the cheaper 300ah batteries) . The $1. per AH I am using are Dumfume brand . They are still pretty close to that $1. per AH price . That said , there are a LOT of these 300ah batteries that are all Chinese and pretty much exact copies of each other (just look at the measurements) . I have approx 1800ah of the dumfume 300ah batteries running in 2 different RV's and they are working pretty great .

B0atguy · November 2025

For anyone who is interested in purchasing lithium batteries .........this is a GREAT tool to help find the best prices . Customizable for different ah too .
https://batteryfinder.net/index.php?volts=12&capacity=3&multi=1

Jeneenae · April 9

Hello I just purchased two Dumfume 12.8v 300ah LifePO4 for our 2021 Tab 400 I will need to expand the wall forward and position them as B0atguy with blocks or an extra wall of sorts. I have the stock Aims power 1200W inverter. As well as the MPPT 75/15 victron smart solar charge controller. We have also purchased the appropriate PD4655V converter replacement compatible for the LiFePO4.
I will attempt to install the batteries and also the updated converter. Will call in my son or someone if I’m not able.

my questions:
Do I need a smart shunt to monitor? Or will the smart solar charge controller work?
Do I need an additional fuse for overcurrent protection? It does seems like the mppt smart solar has low voltage disconnect protection. The inverter also has a fuse.

Does anyone know or have any suggestions or input please?

pthomas745 · April 9

A smart shunt is always useful for battery monitoring. If you really plan to use up a large amount of those 600 amp hours of battery with items that can run off a larger inverter, then, yes, it would practically be required. Trying to estimate voltage of a lithium battery is possible, but is more art than science. The shunt is a much better device for monitoring.

Your "batteries" is where the low voltage protection would be located. Find your battery brochure and look for the value called "low voltage cutoff". That is the point where the batteries will shut down and not allow any further discharge. The shunt or controller might have some "alarms" to alert you, but I would have to look that up.

In your trailer there is a "Gloso" battery circuit breaker, rated at 40 amps. That appeared to be adequate for the 125 amp hours available in the original battery setup for a 2021 400. In the newer trailers with the larger 400 amp hour lithium battery setups (and I think even in the 200 amp hour lithium setups) NuCamp moved that circuit breaker up to a 50 amp device. Your 600 amp hours of battery would seem to need even more than a 50 amp breaker, but that sort of electrical knowledge is well above my skill level! Someone in the group will know these things.

If you plan a larger inverter, you would also need to sort out the appropriate wire gauge to handle that additional load.

There are a couple of threads about installing the Progressive converter. This is a nice thread, but the owner's trailer was a 2004.

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/8580/progressive-dynamics-pd4135-power-converter-installation

Jeneenae · April 13

Thank you for your help! Yes maybe the batteries are overkill with the current inverter. I might upgrade that later. Just trying to take the first step towards LiFePO4 batteries thank you for the information. Yes I see the gloso circuit breaker with two 30amp fuses. I will do some more research on that! If I can get it working and get it road worthy I will be happy. I will also seek out more information on the inline fuse. Yes the batteries have the built in overcurrent protection and also low temperature charging cut off. I’ve got the new converter installed and the batteries topped off with a good charge. Just one more question about the two positive battery cables in the old DC board we traced the second wire to conduit that runs to the front of the trailer I suspect it powers the emergency brakes on the trailer. The other positive battery cable is from the battery disconnect. I suspect it’s a safety feature that’s why they separated them. The new DC board has only one terminal for the positive battery wire instead of the two on the old AGM DC board. I will need to find an answer to this question hopefully it’s an easy and safe solution. Thank you so much for your response!

cafyrman · April 13

Hi @Jeneenae
Looks like you're on to a great project. I converted my '18 400 to a Victron charger/inverter with a LiTime 460ah battery about a year ago. I was able to get the large 8D battery to basically sit in the original location. Now I can run my AC off of battery for at least a few hours.

The shunt is for monitoring the batteries. The smart solar charger will give you voltage, but not the whole picture of capacity. The smart shunt should be wired in between the battery negative and ALL loads, so it can track every electron in and out of the battery.

Lithium batteries have lower resistance, so they can "move" a lot more amps. That's why the stock Gloso breaker is inadequate. What you need to do is to figure out the max amperage you can use and then fuse for that. And change the wire size from both sides of the battery to accommodate that amperage.

I don't know the full details of how your trailer is wired, so I'm guessing a little (lot?) here. I also don't know what kind of overcurrent protection your batteries have. But they should still be fused in case there's a short after them. You'll need to think about wire size from the larger converter to the battery, and from the inverter to the battery.

Watts = amps x voltage. The inverter is 1200 watts AC, which is roughly 100 amps at 12 volts. Your lithium batteries should be able to put that out no problem. You need wiring from the batteries that can handle that load. Using this table:  http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg we see that's 4 gauge wire up to 10 feet or so with a 3% drop. The distance is BOTH sides of the wire, positive and negative.

I would want a little more for DC loads like fans, lights, etc. So I would aim for 120 amps and fuse at 125 amps. That would require 2 gauge wire. That wire should be fused very close to the battery. The easiest way to do that is with a MRBF fuse directly on the battery. Use a good Blue Sea one, and not some crap off of Amazon.

If the converter and inverter are on separate lines from the battery, they should basically be wired/fused separately, either from the battery or from some kind of junction.

As you noted, the second thick wire running to the front of the trailer should connect to the 7 pin plug and be used to power trailer brakes and get a little charge from the tow vehicle.

There are a few great RV lithium, solar, or AC on solar groups on FB. Victron has a good manual you can get here:  https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/The_Wiring_Unlimited_book/43562-Wiring_Unlimited-pdf-en.pdf

If you're planning to upgrade the inverter later, think about just wiring for that now.

Just trying to give you a very rough estimate of what needs to be done. It's a challenge figuring out how things were wired and how to upgrade appropriately.

Jeneenae · April 15

Thanks for your input! At this point honestly it’s a lot to consider since I knew next to nothing about electrical. It still all kinda blows my mind. Good thing I started it and am past the point of no return. I truly appreciate the time you took to provide all of this good information. I’m gonna keep trying to digest all of this information. Got to complete this project so that we can hit the road!

2023 400 with the 400 ah Lithium mod. Victron Inverter.

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