Flexable solar panels ???

Michigan_Mike · January 2016

I know that at one time Little Guy was considering a green option and mounting panels on their units. It would be nice to have panels molded or meshed into the trailer skin, similarly as they do with the carbon fiber experimental solar vehicles. A portable wind generating unit would be interesting too if it blended into the trailer and provided ease of use. A compact torpedo (no fins sticking out) wind generator would be nice to deploy during travel for quicker charge rates as needed and where wind flowed through the unit. Must be something out there with similar innovation? Just some ideas and passing thoughts...

Wind Turbines - Wind Power - Solar Chargers Portable Solar Power

jkjenn · January 2016

I am looking at flexible panels but plan to make a frame out if PVC and not permanently mount. I would like to be able to move them around. @Michigan_Mikefrom what I have read the portable wind is not nearly as effective as solar and more complicated than solar, as of a coupe of years ago. Seems like a shame for those of us putting a lot if miles under our feet. Integrated solar would be very cool.

jcfaber1 · January 2016

I too like Handy Bob's Solar. I read his blog and took many of his suggestion in planning my setup. For my setup, I wanted to be able to place the PV in the sun and the t@b in the shade. There are merits to having it permanently attached as well. For my setup, I wired the PV in series having voltage at 35 using an MPP type controller. My cable length is around 55 ft including the MC4 cable/connector. 50ft is 8 guage cable . The voltage drop is just under 1%. Wiring in series reduces the drop but requires an MPPT CONTROLLER. I find the cheap plastic MC4 disconnect tool works well. I have the Trimetric 2025-rv meter and it works great. If you plan to keep short wire runs, the 2030 meter PWM charge controller would be great. If you think you may want both then I would consider MPPT. I suppose if I were to expand my setup, I might add 2 50watt to the top. My CC will handle them both to 500 watts.
My Watt usage is higher than some users with 12v fridge, ARB and CPAP.
John

[Deleted User] · January 2016

Thanks folks for all the great comments and information. There are pros and cons to both the permanent and portable options, part of me loves the fact that you don't have to mess with setting it up and another cringes at the idea of permanently adhering panels to the roof! The security comments were helpful, I'd suspected as much, seeing how many things are left outside at campgrounds. Got a bit more homework to do, but have much appreciated the feedback.

thomlinz · January 2016

Sorry if I missed it being mentioned here but my t@b came with a plug for the "zamp" solar. From what I gather no one here is using one.I've heard the plug is not "standard". I'm very interested in using solar. I dont really like feeling that I have to go with a zamp system....

jcfaber1 · January 2016

Our tab is a Dutchman. I used Marinco trolling motor outlet and plug for our system.

Nomad · January 2016

thomlinz - Zamp all the way here - great little, plug-n-play, suitcase system. You find a lot of discussion about custom solar here but that doesn't mean there aren't plenty of us that went Zamp. Isn't much to discuss when all you have to do is plug it in and enjoy the benefits immediately.

jkjenn · January 2016

jcfaber1 said:

Our tab is a Dutchman. I used Marinco trolling motor outlet and plug for our system.

That is an interesting solution. Does it go between the panel and controller or controller and battery? Seems lie from the panel would be ideal.

jcfaber1 · January 2016

The charge controller is in the driver's side wheel well cabinet. The plug on the end of the Cable. The outlet is through the side of the tab. The wire from the outlet to breaker to the CC.
John

Ratkity · January 2016

Just a warning. I got an email from Renogy who is recalling flexible solar panels made between April 28th, 2015 to October 1st, 2015. They have the model number RNG-100DB. The products have the UPC code 720825342283 and a serial number beginning with 15029201504030xxx or 15037201504140xxx. The panels can overheat. They are offering replacements. Customer service has been super nice.

Nomad · January 2016

Hope none of you have those permanetly mounted to your roofs - that could be a real replacement nightmare :-(

Ratkity · January 2016

PXLated said:

Hope none of you have those permanetly mounted to your roofs - that could be a real replacement nightmare :-(

Permanently mounted with 3M automotive trim tape... ugh. I can get it off without damaging the T@B finish, but it's going to take a couple of hours with a hair dryer, soft plastic scraper and an 8 ft A-frame ladder. *sigh* Heading towards Jenn's PVC idea for new install!

Nomad · January 2016

Oooooooooch :-(

mash2 · January 2016

IF you have a non CS version, you could probably run the cables from the top to the trim and route them in the trim channel down to the end and then run under the vehicle at the handles. My cables are at the back of the T@B and I just routed them to the handles and then ran under the vehicle put in a plastic channel that ran up to the electrical area of the T@B .. then pulled them in and sealed the entry.

Mr_Mrs_Gnome · January 2016

@jkjenn, what are your thoughts on a design for a pvc frame for flexible panels?

jkjenn · January 2016

I think it would be pretty much a basic rectangle, with t connectors with legs. I think I would connect the panels with hooks so that if I wanted to use them with suction cups on the T@b, I could, but it would be easy to Moe to the sun. Also, PCV could be filled with rocks on site to weight
it down.

Ratkity · January 2016

Jenn, since I have to remove my permanently mounted flex panel to check the serial numbers to see if it's one of the bad batches of flex panels made, I'm seriously considering your PVC/frame idea. The flex panels are super light compared to the traditional glass ones and I can make U-shaped stakes to hold down a lightweight setup in case I run into some of PXL's tail winds (or use sand weights). I like the convenience of permanent mount for the 'hood I live in, but out camping, I'd rather do what so many have done here and be able to position the panels for optimal sun exposure while being able to park in the shade.

I am looking forward to you next installment of "Guilty as Charged"!!!

kccate · January 2016

After the comment above that Uni-Solar flex panels can be found on EBay, I have been doing a little shopping. The 136 watt ones I can find say they are 18 feet long. Since C@te is off in winter storage prison, I cannot measure, but that seems too long to fit. Help please?

Michigan_Mike · January 2016

thomlinz said:

Sorry if I missed it being mentioned here but my t@b came with a plug for the "zamp" solar. From what I gather no one here is using one. I've heard the plug is not "standard". I'm very interested in using solar. I dont really like feeling that I have to go with a zamp system....

I have had a Zamp 80 watt generation l panel shortly after they came out. I think they are at generation 3 or 4 at present and I updated my charge controller with their digital controller and it is even more efficient. I also like the portable unit and ability to deploy it whenever I want.

You can basically use any solar panel you want on your T@B unit as the Zamp port is pretty much a universal port via the quick disconnect plug that can be purchased at places like Walmart, auto parts stores, etc. so that shouldn't create any issues for what you choose to use.

Nomad · January 2016

Mike - I've never found that Zamp plug at auto parts stores (or Walmart) in anything but light-weight, standard automotive 16 gauge. The Zamp is 10-12. You can order them on Amazon though.

Michigan_Mike · January 2016

PXLated said:

Mike - I've never found that Zamp plug at auto parts stores (or Walmart) in anything but light-weight, standard automotive 16 gauge. The Zamp is 10-12. You can order them on Amazon though.

I guess I wasn't clear in the above as I am referring to using the exisiting Zamp port and buying the male plug that will plug into the Zamp port on these trailers.

Nomad · January 2016

You were clear - but that plug wiring is a lot lighter gauge than the wire on the Zamp - The end is the same though.

Michigan_Mike · January 2016

That shouldn't be an issue and they do make a 10 gauge plug that will match Zamp's cable. I've never had any issues with my extension cord.

jcfaber1 · January 2016

My frame is made of cedar 2x2's (actually 1.5 square). The PV is in a 1/4 mahogany plywood suitcase. I can use10 inch timber lock screws to screw it to the ground if wind is a concern.
John

Nomad · January 2016

Mike - When I broke my plug, Zamp told me that 16 gauge would work for a temp fix but needed a 12 guage (they set me one). I subsequently ordered a couple more from Amazon (12 gauge) for spares just in case it ever broke again - it did. Seems the little metal tip weakens with a lot of wiggling, plugging/unplugging like I do. I now always have a spare :-)

Michigan_Mike · January 2016

Nice to have those spare parts available, especially in some of the remote areas you get into!

jkjenn · January 2016

Both Gone with the Wynns and Technomadia have recently abandoned flexible panels because of how quickly they wear and cupping, which causes water and debris to collect. I think their issues might be related to permanent mounting where heat build up occurs and they bear the brunt of intense rain and even hail. I wonder how much of that is avoided by not having them permanently mounted on a roof?

Ratkity · January 2016

Jenn, my flex panel was just recalled for a potential overheating problem due to wiring. I noticed a little bit of cupping, but I have that sucker permanently mounted so well, it took me 2 hours just to loosen one corner. Ugh. I have to take it off to send it back for replacement. Recently found someone suggesting WD40 might work with the adhesive I used and it wouldn't mess with the gel coat on the T@B roof.

jkjenn · February 2016

@jcfaber1 are you running your panels in parallel or series through your MPPT controller? If I understand correctly, the panels run in series through an MPPT controller experience less loss than run in parallel. The other thing is that a lot of articles suggest that the savings is negligible unless running a larger wattage array. What are your thoughts?

Also, how are your flexible panels holding up? Any noticeable cupping or scratches?

jcfaber1 · February 2016

I am running them in series. I have a post earlier in this thread for more information. I am at less than 1% drop. They are working great but do not have that much experience with them yet. My wife got injured last summer and cut into our camping. The series benefit is less voltage drop to get 55 ft run. MPPT controller yields maybe 10% gain and allowing the 35 voltage input from the PV. Taken together it is worth it. If mounted on the camper or close then PWM charge controller would be great.

John

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