Dumb questions regarding bed slat install

gooselady · August 2016

I'm new to handling power tools, and such, so bear with me. If the bed slats are 3/4 inch pieces, how far down from the top edge should I place the rail? The reason I ask, is that there is a little plastic finish piece at the top edge of the seat. I also ask because the seat cushions seem to be recessed a bit. I want a smooth sleeping area.

Also, what size and length of wood screw should I use to install the rails? The rail itself is 3/4 inches think, and the bench supports are 1 3/8 inches. How many screws per side? Do I screw in from the outside of the bench, or the inside? If inside, how does one contend with the Alde vent on the passenger side? I have a 2015 Max S.

Thanks in advance,

John_and_Kris · August 2016

I did ours the "hard way" I took slats and then the table I made and we held a slat with cushion on it and marked where it was level. Be careful on the passenger side not to cover the vent area. We then measured where screws would go into support wood and planned for correct screw lengths to go thru rail, the bench support and then the 2x4 or support wood behind that. On the Passenger side I had to cut some wood away from the rail to expose the vent area We made our own rails. The PV ones may take that area into account. All in all not that bad just measure and locate. We use the Lagun Table system and made the table so it would double as a bed "slat"

ericnliz · August 2016

gooselady, I followed the instructions that Pop_T@b so generously shared. Several others have contributed threads as well. Best bet is read and follow by example. Pre-fit before screwing anything in permanently, measure twice, cut once. A level also came in handy. Pre-drill holes for screws so the wood does not split [do 'ya really have to ask how I know that?] and I cut the side rails first, laid the slats on top, and positioned and marked where I wanted mine. [Used clamps to hold the side rails before drilling and screwing them on] I positioned mine so that after the slats were installed they were just below the plastic strip you mentioned, and did not cover the vent on the passenger side. Still, all in all read the threads and use the ones that suit you the best. Good luck and be confident, it will work out!

ericnliz · August 2016

gooselady, Please know that here, there are no dumb questions, just good resolutions to good questions!

Verna · August 2016

@gooselady, or you could come on down to Central Indiana for a few days of camping. I know a certain female Adminstrator who has lots of woodworking tools

ericnliz · August 2016

Well, there 'ya go gooselady! Thanks Verna, I always knew despite the wicked edit wand you were a nice lady!

ScottG · August 2016

I set my rails so that the slats are even with top of the front face of the bench. There will be a little unevenness no matter what you do, but I've yet to lose any sleep over it.

Measure the thickness of all the layers and use the longest screw you can that will go almost--but not completely--through them all. I think I put them about every 4 inches. Like ericnliz said, pre-drilling is recommended.

I screwed from the back for appearance purposes, but I don't think the rails care. I did have to remove the box covering the Alde convector on the passenger side. Four screws, I think--not hard.

We rarely set up the benches, so the table just got ditched. A small folding table works nicely if needed. A few well-placed slats can even serve as a handy side table!

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/u8/yu5e3bd8ugp9.jpg

gooselady · August 2016

Thanks for the offer, Verna. I think the bed rails may be beyond my pay grade. I've asked the DH if he could help, since, of course, the only reason I am putting in bed rails is because we have a trip planned together. I'm too hesitant to even drill the hole to install the SAE mount on the propane box.

Argh! I can do most other farm work, run machinery, pull stuck lambs, milk a cow, herd sheep, train sheepdogs, keep a garden, etc. But hand me a tool, especially a power tool, and I will look at you blankly.....

gooselady · August 2016

Thanks, ScottG, for offering specific answers. At least I can buy the hardware to prepare for install.

mash2 · August 2016

Where are you located (generally). At least some of us would show up for the "fun" of some "modding" on your vehicle. (I've done it a couple of times out on the west coast).

gooselady · August 2016

So I bought 12x2" wood screws. What size drill do I use to pre-drill holes? And I am pre-drilling only through the bench, right? Not into the rail?

jkjenn · August 2016

gooselady said:

Thanks for the offer, Verna. I think the bed rails may be beyond my pay grade. I've asked the DH if he could help, since, of course, the only reason I am putting in bed rails is because we have a trip planned together. I'm too hesitant to even drill the hole to install the SAE mount on the propane box.

Argh! I can do most other farm work, run machinery, pull stuck lambs, milk a cow, herd sheep, train sheepdogs, keep a garden, etc. But hand me a tool, especially a power tool, and I will look at you blankly.....

I didn't want to botch it, so I let the factory do it.

gooselady · August 2016

That is not a confidence builder, Jenn!

ScottG · August 2016

gooselady said:

So I bought 12x2" wood screws. What size drill do I use to pre-drill holes? And I am pre-drilling only through the bench, right? Not into the rail?

If you are installing from the back, drill through the bench with a bit the same diameter of your screw shank. I don't think I drilled into the rails, but if you are concerned about splitting (usually a problem in hardwood or when screws are very near an edge) you can continue into those with a bit that is smaller than your screw shank.

There's probably a rule for the exact size of bits you should use in each case, but I don't know it. Maybe Verna or another real woodworker can elaborate.

Verna · August 2016

When Scott says "shank" that means the solid part of the screw, not the screw threads. Hold the bit and the screw up, one in front of the other and make sure you can still see the threads.

@gooselady, 2" will be too long, come to think of it! I think the front panel of the bench is 1/2" and the slat is 3/4" at the most. 1 1/4" would be better.

gooselady · August 2016

Verna, I measured 1 3/8 " on the bench support and 3/4" rails. That gives me 2.125 inches total width, and I want a smaller size screw. Perhaps 1 3/4" is better?

Thanks for tip regarding shanks.

Verna · August 2016

OK, I didn't want to take the time to measure mine since I wanted to stop you. 1 3/4" won't be long enough.

You can always put a washer under the screw head. Go ahead and use the 2"--sorry. Are both sides the 2.125"? Measure twice, drill once!

Justjudy · August 2016

We installed cleats for the bed slats a couple of weeks ago. My husband insisted that the screws should go in from the front, so I insisted they be recessed a little and have "buttons" glued on. I love the retro look.

ericnliz · August 2016

Justjudy,GOOD JOB! Looks really nice! Tell the hubby great work!

Photomom · August 2016

I lay the drill bit on top of the screw and make sure I can see a bit of the screw threads on either side of the bit.

Theres' a a trick for making sure you don't drill too deeply and drill through the front of the rail. Measure the depth and wrap a piece of masking tape around the bit, then stop drilling when you get to the tape.

Get yourself some scrap lumber and plywood and practice a bit!

ericnliz · August 2016

Photomom, Really good advise!

Justjudy · August 2016

Thanks, ericnliz!

ericnliz · August 2016

Justjudy, You're welcome! Thank Photomom, she's the one who posted!

ScottG · August 2016

Verna said:

When Scott says "shank" that means the solid part of the screw, not the screw threads. Hold the bit and the screw up, one in front of the other and make sure you can still see the threads.

@gooselady, 2" will be too long, come to think of it! I think the front panel of the bench is 1/2" and the slat is 3/4" at the most. 1 1/4" would be better.

You're too kind, Verna--I think I was misusing the word "shank" but you have set me straight. Thanks for the lesson in woodworking terminology!

There is also a 3/4" framing member behind the 5/8" front panel--that's where gooselady got her 1-3/8".

Verna · August 2016

Thanks, @ScottG. It's been since last fall since I installed my Lagun table and the bed slat rails. I need to open that bench so I can install a 12V plug for my inverter and my portable DVD player and I'll review my work

I'm also working on my storage box for under the board at the rear of the T@B. I'm really looking forward to storage for small stuff.

Lil_Lucy · August 2016

ericnliz said:

gooselady, Pre-drill holes for screws so the wood does not split.

Here is a chart that shows what size your pilot hole should be drilled at.

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/r8/sfrkvklcbmza.jpg

gooselady · August 2016

Very helpful info. Thanks!

ScottG · August 2016

Verna said:

...
I'm also working on my storage box for under the board at the rear of the T@B. I'm really looking forward to storage for small stuff.

The more I think about it, the more I like that idea. I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with!

Verna · August 2016

@ScottG, I had hoped to get the plywood ripped to size yesterday, but all of the tornadic activity kept me away from the table saw.

Sharon_is_SAM · August 2016

Verna, were you close to all that weather?

Verna · August 2016

It was north of Indy, about 40 miles away. It sure looked bad all
afteenoon and evening. The storm that wouldn't quit. Storm chasers had been following it since Monday from Kansas until after dark last night. Little "possible tornado producing storms" kept popping up south of us and north of us. My brother watched a funnel in the sky go over his house about 7 miles from me. It dumped about 4" of rain on his neighborhood--flooded yard and 2" of water in his basement. Scary day!

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