Water Line Blow-Out vs RV Antifreeze...Experts please weigh in!

Cheryl74074 · October 2014

If you use an air compressor to blow all of the water out of your lines, why would you have to add RV antifreeze to fill all the tubing?

Shouldn't it be enough to do one or the other, but not necessary to do both?

(I know that you do need to put some RV antifreeze in the drains for the shower, sink, toilet, and the gray water and black water tanks.)

judymac · October 2014

Same question we are asking. We learned our dealer put RV anti-freeze in our Alde lines, now we can't use it until we drain the lines. Going to be cold here, so we can't figure out what to do.

Cyclonic · October 2014

I use air to blow out my lines. The system in a T@B is very small and it takes little time. I just key the compressor to about 25PSI and connect it with a blow out adapter (I got a nice brass one from Wal-Mart for just a few dollars), and open all of the valves, which for me include the drain on the electric water heater, the hot and cold on the sink, and the hot and cold on the outside shower. I also run the water pump for about 30 seconds. Last step it to pour a little bit of anti-freeze down the drain to fill the trap.

I use the blow out method because it is easy and because we camp year round, so I actually end up winterizing the T@Bpole several times each winter, after each trip. I will do the first winterization in a few weeks after a weekend trip to Hershey, then again after a trip in December, and finally after a trip (to Florida) in January, so it saves a lot of effort to not have to clean the system of antifreeze each time.

I have to find the thread, but I did post some pictures of the process.

judymac · October 2014

Thanks, Cyclonic. Our heater is an Alde, a bit different. Your method of,winterizing seems more simple. I wondered how we could drive from cold weather to a warmer place and clean the drains at a campground. Do you actually carry your compressor with you to ensure the T@B doesn't encounter freezing temp problems,on your return home from FLA?

jkjenn · October 2014

FYI, you can use a bike pump and blow out plug to clear tour lines, too. I just did that today because my air compressor did not work and is at the factory repair center.

I did both because we are expecting a cold and snowy winter this year. I might de-winterize once the compressor is back and just blow out the lines.

Cheryl74074 · October 2014

We used the blow-out method with an air compressor today. I'm hoping that's all we need to do- it was easy.

We have the Alde.

We're expecting freezing temps tomorrow night, so I hope more people will comment about whether or not this is enough.

judymac · October 2014

Is there anything more compact than husband's big compressor? Our thoughts are that if driving our T@B to warmer climate we would need for it to remain winterized until we reach the campground. While I am trying to learn to be a minimalist with her, I dread the thoughts of using my TV space for a large compressor. Is the bike pump sufficient in this case? Is it acceptable to drain this environmentally safe product in the campground dump? Thank you.

judymac · October 2014

Do you have this configuration? If so, should we assume that the valve in the upper right corner (silver in color) is the valve which would prohibit any water to the Alde. I am relating it to our main water shut off in our home. That valve has not been touched by us...YET

Nomad · October 2014

I bought a small compressor from Maynards (a midwest hardware chain) for $75. It is for inflating car tires, balls, rafts, etc. Has clips for connecting directly to the battery. I also bought a brass blowout connector that has a threaded stem just like on a car tire. Because of the threads, I can hook up / turn on the compressor, go inside and deal with faucets/valves while the small compressor runs.

When it's in it's case it measures roughly 10x8x4. Figured I probably should have one not only for the blowout but to keep all the tires properly inflated as I travel.

judymac · October 2014

Thanks. We have a small inflator but it tends to blow my 12V fuse in my Trailblazer. No battery clips on it either. Will share this info. Much better than carrying our big one.

Nomad · October 2014

You can get them with a cigarette lighter plug or clips - I opted for clips as it's easy to just open the propane cover and clip in - that is if you can easily get the battery cover off. It's then sitting right next to the water hookup and no vehicle needed.

Cheryl74074 · October 2014

Well, this thread got hijacked.

I'd still like to know if blowing out the lines is enough to winterize safely.

Cheryl74074 · October 2014

Judy- if you want to do the blow out method and THEN isolate the Alde, just follow the red and blue hoses from the Alde and close the valves that are closest to the Alde.

judymac · November 2014

Thanks Cheryl. Sorry if I high jacked thread. There are those who simply blow out the lines and pour RV anti/freeze into their traps and tanks. I imagine this is subjective. We had friends who blew the lines but didn't thoroughly winterized. Imagine how frustrating it wad when they took their first trip. I doubt anyone will answer your question with a simple yes or no. Good

Michigan_Mike · November 2014

Cyclonic said:

I use air to blow out my lines. The system in a T@B is very small and it takes little time. I just key the compressor to about 25PSI and connect it with a blow out adapter (I got a nice brass one from Wal-Mart for just a few dollars), and open all of the valves, which for me include the drain on the electric water heater, the hot and cold on the sink, and the hot and cold on the outside shower. I also run the water pump for about 30 seconds. Last step it to pour a little bit of anti-freeze down the drain to fill the trap.

I use the blow out method because it is easy and because we camp year round, so I actually end up winterizing the T@Bpole several times each winter, after each trip. I will do the first winterization in a few weeks after a weekend trip to Hershey, then again after a trip in December, and finally after a trip (to Florida) in January, so it saves a lot of effort to not have to clean the system of antifreeze each time.

I have to find the thread, but I did post some pictures of the process.

Here is the information you were referring to Nathan:

Cyclonic

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/comment/3690/#Comment_3690

I used a blow out plug last year to winterize, and it worked well. We take trips even in the winter, and this is the easiest way to do it.

Start by draining your hot water heater. I have an electric one under the sink, which I can connect a hose to to drain. I don't know the draining procedures for the Alde heaters. Also open the fresh water tank's valve up and drain that.

Put the plug in your city water hook up and set the compressor to about 25psi. Make sure to open all faucets, including the outdoor shower (we didn't use it, but it still had water in the lines) and run the water pump for about 30 seconds.

Once all the water is out close it up and pour a little bit of that pink antifreeze down the drain so that it fills the trap. All this should take you less then thirty minutes. The pictures are from me doing it at night after coming home in the snow last December.

deputydog · November 2014

I used the blow out procedure last year and it worked fine. Was told NOT to add. anti-freeze to lines because when alde heater is used in winter, hot water is also turned on even if no water in line. If line has antifreeze in it when/if it boils they do not know what fumes or problems may occur to lines. Alde works fine with line empty.

deputydog · November 2014

Just add antifreeze to traps of sinks, shower drain?,and small amount to fresh water tank 1/4 gallon, due to some water remaining after draining same :-@

CodeJunkie · November 2014

This is what I am taking away from this thread.

The Alde does not need water to run the heater.

IF I plan to use the Alde (heater only, not hot water) during months when temps may fall below freezing, then

1) drain all water lines and blow them out using the compressor

2) pour antifreeze into all drain traps and fresh water tank (do not pump antifreeze into the water lines)

IF I do NOT plan to use the Alde, it is OK to add antifreeze to the water lines (in addition to all traps).

I thought I had this all figured out, but my head is swimming from information overload on winterizing the T@B. It's a bit overwhelming trying to put all the pieces together. Is my summary above correct?

Cheryl74074 · November 2014

Debbie- Sounds good!

I'll just add one thing... if you have the bypass valve which enables you to isolate the Alde, then you can add antifreeze to the water lines, but make sure that the valves to the Alde are closed!

XPADREX · November 2014

I did both... emptied the lines, then filled with antifreeze. Interesting, this thing about no antifreeze in the alde water lines.... I wonder what that is all about, truly.

Cheryl74074 · November 2014

Because RV antifreeze is basically just ethanol, there is concern about using the Alde for heat (not hot water) and boiling the ethanol that would be in the water lines.

Wanderoo · November 2014

Xpadrex - A Yahoo Forum member called Alde UK last year and their answer was they are "concerned" it might break down the glycol which is used in the Alde boiler, over time, when the RV antifreeze circulates and recirculates. To be on the safe side, I am following their guidelines. :-SS

deputydog · November 2014

My alde did not work properly Unless I place switch to Hot water,even no water was in system.

XPADREX · November 2014

There is a part of me that wonders if the glycol prohibition is a prophylactic move against litigation for people drinking water that went through the system. As with how many licks to get to the center of a Tootsie pop, "the world may never know."

Corfu · November 2014

Hi, I have a config with Alde as Judymac pictured. Just winterized and here's what I did.

Total of 2 gallons of antifreeze. Probably more than I need but I used it all anyway.

Drain the water holding tank, black, and grey tanks.
Attach air to the city water inlet at 30-40 PSI
Line Blowout using each of the following as the air outlet in sequence:

Main sink Cold.
Main sink Hot.
(model S) shower sink Cold.
(model S) shower sink Hot.
(model S) toilet.
Alde heat line drain
Alde cold line drain
Repeat. That should assure that the Alde water tank is nice and dry.

judymac · November 2014

Ours is winterized and we may want to use ALDE only. How would you go about draining ALDE only? Marvin at factory said to open yellow valve but my husband isn't sure that is good enough. Air lock? We would use campground facilities for other things. Otherwise we are going to have to let our new T@B sit for 5-6 months. Boo! Your point #2: RV anti-freeze in cold water lines but not hot? Thank you.

ChanW · November 2014

Good explanation Steve.

Judy, if you're using the Alde only to heat the Tab, you don't need water in the hot-water system, thus you won't need to re-drain it.

If you want to use the Alde for hot (wash) water, you'll need to drain/blow-out the whole system again, to re-winterize when you're done with it.

Steve puts antifreeze in only the cold lines, because the Alde hot-water heater shouldn't have antifreeze in it while you're using the Alde for heat. Blowing the hot water lines out with air protects them.

--

Chan

2013 'S' Maxx

judymac · November 2014

Why is it safe/good enough to not put anti-freeze in hot water lines yet we do for cold? Is blowing out lines just not enough? We want to take all precautions. We aren't sure if opening yellow valve without another drain will get that RV anti-freeze out of Alde. Thank you.

ChanW · November 2014

I only use the compressed air method for winterizing the plumbing in our Tab, and don't use antifreeze.

It's easier and less messy, with minimal chemical stuff to deal with. I found that flushing the antifreeze out completely in the spring was difficult.

I have to do it all systematically, as Steve described, and I make sure to do it multiple times, tilting the Tab various ways to make sure all the water is out.

Others think it's 'better safe than sorry' by also adding antifreeze, in case some water has remained in the lines.

--

Chan

DurangoTaB · November 2014

I agree with Chan...and would add a comment I haven't seen mentioned yet, and that is to make sure your T@B is at least level, or leaning slightly to port (all the drains are on the left side). Ours is parked on a starboard leaning hill, and after using compressed air, then towing it to a flat spot...there was still some water in the lines.

judymac · November 2014

Any comments on how to get that RV anti-freeze out of our ALDE? We now know it should not have had it put in and we know it needs to drain. Our dealer did nothing wrong, it was just a lack of knowledge to them from LG. We suppose damage could be done if we don't drain it thoroughly before using HEAT only. We don't want to let this stop us from using until spring. Marvin @ the factory merely said open the yellow valve. We have a 3 valve system, not 5.

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