2014 S Maxx
2011 Tacoma 4cyl ... edit: 2022 Tacoma 6cyl - oh yeah!

A_Little_T@b'll_Do_Ya

Ratkity said:I vaguely remember one person had ONE fuse a fast blow and ONE a slow blow fuse in their Alde. The fast blow kept going out, so the owner replaced it with a slow blow. No more problems after that.
My theory was that people may be accidentally leaving on the manual Alde thermostat. Then they plug the camper into the campground power pole, causing a brief surge. I found several holes in that theory, however. Some folks had surge protectors (good ones). Others weren't even on 110V power and the thermostat was off.
Sorry, no answers here. I'm as flummoxed as you all!
As they always say, "to each his own" and I believe that should people find ways that allow things to work best for you personally, you should stick to your own game plan/procedures as we are all creatures of habit. Thus far my lucky string has continued and am only passing along a few tips that have worked well for Linda and I. 


I am guessing that the majority of these issues probably go back to the fusing of the Alde and the fact that the light fusing is so sensitive to any voltage imbalance that they blow quickly when the system senses what it considers to be a surge or potential fault. If the Alde units themselves were faulty the factory would be receiving an inordinate amount of repairs and potential warranty claims and to my knowledge this is just not the case.JohnDanielsCPA said:@Michigan_Mike, your "voodoo" is the one I've always used on all of my rigs, and I've never had a problem. However, to @ChanW's point, if fuses are blowing while off of shore power, that is a 12 volt issue, and a bad converter (surging et al) could certainly cause something like that. I believe T@Bs (at least the newer ones) use WFCO converters, but I'm not certain. I have not had any problems, yet, but if I did, that is certainly one area I would be scrutinizing. Of course, I am assuming the Alde is NOT the problem, and that could be a bad assumption.
I agree with your assessment that something is wrong when someone continues to blow fuses and disagree that the Alde is the weak point of the trailer. The Alde is a gem, the heart of my trailer and the most valuable piece of my trailer as an "all in one unit" that provides heat and hot water for me when camping and in remote areas. It is compact and efficient and I prefer it to separate heating units for heat/water.Ratkity said:@gbell When you don't plug into 110V and are only on battery, do you blow fuses? Your Alde 110V plug doesn't have to be in the socket if you don't want. No AC power will be going to it.
I was under the impression that this was happening on both battery power and 110V. Is it? If not, then I'd drop by an RV repair place to check out ALL your wiring connections to your converter for 110V. Something is loose or needs replacement.
I will see if I can get an answer from the factory and will post up any information they provide.Photomom said:I love the Alde and the ONLY time I've had a problem is when the 110v plug came out of the outlet while driving on a very bumpy road in a construction zone. BUT the engineer in me wants a definitive answer to the slow blow / fast blow fuse question. One of those is correct and the other is not.

From Elsie at the factory:Photomom said:@Verna and @Michigan_Mike would you be able to ask someone from the factory to check with Alde about the slow-blow vs. fast-blow issue? I would think since nuCamp buys Aldes in mass quantities they are in a better position to get an authoritative answer than us minions.
It is the fast blowing fuse, F3.15AL Fast-Blow Fuse 3.15A 250V Glass Fuses
There are 2 fuses in the system, no extra. They are available through nücamp or Amazon.
INTERRUPTING RATING: Also known as breaking
capacity or short circuit rating, the interrupting rating is
the maximum approved current which the fuse can safely
interrupt at rated voltage. During a fault or short circuit
condition, a fuse may receive an instantaneous overload
current many times greater than its normal operating
current. Safe operation requires that the fuse remain intact
(no explosion or body rupture) and clear the circuit.
I believe high breaking capacity fuses ("H") have a solid body instead of glass and are used where there might be enough current to cause a glass fuse to explode.

Well, now.. wait a minute... sometimes they're fun. Especially when there's sparklie things that shoot into the sky (fireworks).Photomom said:Explosions not good.

Pull both fuses and check them visually or with an ohmmeter. The first one you replaced may have blown again.dmerzbac said:When on a trip earlier this week to see the eclipse, I again blew one of the fast blow fuses. I replaced it with a slow blow that I had received from Elsie. No luck - the display did not come on. I then replaced the remaining fast blow with another slow blow and the display still didn't work. Everything was correctly plugged in along with a surge protector. I also plugged in to 15amp service when I returned home. I still can't get the display to work. Has anyone else had the same problem? What else do I need to check? Oh yes, I have ordered some fast blow just to check those again.
