Towing with Ford Ranger 4 cylinder

Adrienne · June 2018

Hello, I'm just beginning my journey into the world of RV camping. I have a 4 cylinder extended cab 2009 Ford Ranger with an automatic transmission. Does anybody have any experience pulling a T@B 320 with this vehicle, or a similar one. The dealer is telling me it would be okay, but it might be slow going on Hills. I don't want to put to much stress on my truck so that it is damaged. Thanks!

Sharon_is_SAM · June 2018

You will be happier pulling with a V6 and less risk to damage to your truck.

jgram2 · June 2018

Here’s a site with towing information for the 2009 ranger. It’s a place to start your inquiry-max capacity varies a lot depending upon the specific truck you have. Some folks tow with 4 cylinder engines with eco boost, whatever that is -:).

http://www.new-cars.com/2009/ford/specs/ranger.html#towing

Adrienne · June 2018

A new vehicle is not an option. And my Ranger does not have EcoBoost. 😞

ScottG · June 2018

A loaded T@B 320 would be pretty close to the 2240lb towing capacity given on the spreadsheet.

I towed a lighter trailer (~1500lbs) with a similarly powered 4-cylinder Nissan Frontier rated for 3000lbs. It was definitely slow-going on the hills. Your truck will work hard and you won't win any races, but if you stay within the specs you'll eventually get from point A to point B.

I don't believe EcoBoost has any bearing on your towing ability.

Sharon_is_SAM · June 2018

The 2.3l engine tow capacity is only 2240#. A safe 75% is 1680#. The base weights of the various Tab models with LP and battery are between 1850 and 2000#. So, the base weights are higher than the recommended 75% capacity of the truck. Have you considered a Tag?

dragonsdofly · June 2018

@Adrienne, what area of the country are you from, and what type of towing conditions do you expect? Towing in midwest flat Michigan is very different from towing in mountainous Montana. The same can be true of the differences in Maine and the desert southwest of Nevada or Arizona. So let's start with you vehicles tow capacity. I'm assuming you do not have a tow package on your Ranger. That 4 cylinder is going to be working very hard in all but downhill travel. Without a transmission cooler, heavier duty alternator, etc you may be pushing the limits of your vehicle. That's not to say it can't be done. If you are in a flat geographic area and your travels will be short, like to nearby state parks, then it is certainly possible. If you are planning longer, more geographically diverse trips, then there will be more strain on your vehicle. Remember your capacity has to include the trailer, weight in the 3 holding tanks, propane tank, spare tire, and all the gear you will take, barbeque, tents, chairs, carpets, clothes, food, tools and the like. First get the manufacturer's tow capacity, then the tongue weight max of your vehicle. From there you can get a feel of what your vehicle can handle. Because you have a pick-up, you will have some margin for payload, but that does not always translate into tow capacity. Seek the vehicle manufacturer's specs first. You mentioned your dealer thought it would be ok, but which dealer, RV or vehicle? Keep in mind that the RV dealer has in mind the end goal of selling a trailer, not necessarily protecting you and/or your vehicle. Good luck with whatever you decide. Welcome to the forum. -Denise

Adrienne · June 2018

Thank you, Denise. Yes, I'm aware the dealer has an incentive to tell me it's okay. That is why I'm proceeding with caution. I actually wanted to travel all over the place, but probably never more than a couple hundred miles a day. It would be just me in the vehicle itself, no pets,. My Ranger did come with a built-in tow receiver, but I don't think that translates to a "towing package". The dealer did say something about having to add some wiring to my Ranger for the brakes on the trailer. T@G might be an option, but I really wanted the shower, and toilet. I really need that more than the kitchen inside. I plan on spending a lot of time in this trailer. Thank you for all of the useful information.

rkj__ · June 2018

Well, it looks to me like a T@b would take you right up to your max tow limit, but probably not exceed it. Your biggest problem will be horsepower.

143 hp @ 5,250 rpm

I'm guessing you would be spending a lot of time driving at 4-5,000 RPM to get the power you need to deal with headwinds and slight or significant grades.

That means a few things.

1. Comfort. You will deal with more engine noise from the high RPM. Also, if your truck has air conditioning, that robs 15-25 HP. You may find yourself turning off the air conditioning, to free up some pulling power. That could make you hot, and have to deal with even more noise, when you roll down the windows.

2. Speed. Any significant hill on a highway may cause you to dip below the speed limit. Also, merging onto busy, fast moving freeways, with short on ramps could get a little hairy, as you will need more distance to get up to speed.

3. Wear. Towing increases wear on any vehicle, no matter how far under your tow rating the trailer is, but it is more significant when you are towing at your max. Your engine and transmission temperatures will be elevated. Depending on the OEM configuration, adding an additional external transmission cooler is a fairly inexpensive way to keep your transmission cool. Revving at 5,000 RPM won't kill your engine immediately. Using stuff wears it out. If you don't want to wear out your truck, don't drive it.

I hope some of my rambling helps your decision making a bit.

Adrienne · June 2018

Thank you, rkj. The air isn't a big issue. I am always cold, so I have built in air...lol. I drive with the window open a lot. I really don't plan on travelling on busy highways, but I get your point. I did a cross country motorcycle trip a decade ago and only spent about 400 miles on the interstate. I only did that much because, well, Texas and Oklahoma have a lot of wide open spaces with nothing in between. I will check into the transmission cooler thing. It will be hard to avoid hills as my daughter lives in Oregon, on the other side of some mountains. I just want to make sure I wouldn't start rolling backwards! So, what if I took out some of the stuff I don't need inside, to reduce the weight? I assume that would help. I only need the main part of the bed below the cabinets. I wouldn't need all of the extra seating on the side. I wonder if you can custom order without that? Or, if I buy used would there be a huge issue with ripping that out? I see some other brands of campers are available with showers/toilet that are a lower weight, but they are pretty darn ugly! Your rambling helps a lot. In my research, I saw a posting about not needing extra wiring for the brakes, like the dealer told me I would need. But, it was on an older model. Is this true? Something about SURGE brakes. I have no idea what that is. My truck is wired for trailer lights already. The truck only has 70,000 miles on it now, so it could stand to be used some. I'm kind of attached to it and don't have funds to purchase something else. Maybe I am just crazy, and I need to a dose of reality.....

rkj__ · June 2018

Adrienne said:

Thank you, rkj. The air isn't a big issue. I am always cold, so I have built in air...lol. I drive with the window open a lot. I really don't plan on travelling on busy highways, but I get your point. I did a cross country motorcycle trip a decade ago and only spent about 400 miles on the interstate. I only did that much because, well, Texas and Oklahoma have a lot of wide open spaces with nothing in between. I will check into the transmission cooler thing. It will be hard to avoid hills as my daughter lives in Oregon, on the other side of some mountains. I just want to make sure I wouldn't start rolling backwards! So, what if I took out some of the stuff I don't need inside, to reduce the weight? I assume that would help. I only need the main part of the bed below the cabinets. I wouldn't need all of the extra seating on the side. I wonder if you can custom order without that? Or, if I buy used would there be a huge issue with ripping that out? I see some other brands of campers are available with showers/toilet that are a lower weight, but they are pretty darn ugly! Your rambling helps a lot. In my research, I saw a posting about not needing extra wiring for the brakes, like the dealer told me I would need. But, it was on an older model. Is this true? Something about SURGE brakes. I have no idea what that is. My truck is wired for trailer lights already. The truck only has 70,000 miles on it now, so it could stand to be used some. I'm kind of attached to it and don't have funds to purchase something else. Maybe I am just crazy, and I need to a dose of reality.....

Another note, since you mention mountains, and Oregon... I'm not sure on your route, but McKenzie Pass is at 5,325 feet. Due to the thinner air, your 143 HP engine is only making around 120 HP at that elevation. Most would say that is pretty anemic. But, will you roll backwards? No. You will just need to be in a low gear, with your engine revving high.

I'm not positive what the ranger has for wiring, but my best guess would be that it has a flat 4 pin connector, that looks like this:

The T@b has a round 7 way plug, that looks like this:

The additional pins are for trailer brakes and charging the T@b battery while in transit.

It should not be too expensive to upgrade your ranger from the 4 to 7 way connector.

Additionally, you will need a brake controller unit, to control the electric brakes on the T@b.

This is assuming you are looking at newer T@bs. The older T@bs do have surge brakes. Surge brakes operate based on mechanical forces, and are not electrically controlled.

A good RV dealer can be a great resource for getting your vehicle set up to tow safely.

Adrienne · June 2018

Thank you, that is very helpful. They gave me a ballpark of $400-700 to do the modifications. Sounded high to me, by I really do not know. I have run into price inflation before, because I am an older, single female.

rkj__ · June 2018

Adrienne said:

Thank you, that is very helpful. They gave me a ballpark of $400-700 to do the modifications. Sounded high to me, by I really do not know. I have run into price inflation before, because I am an older, single female.

The brake controller I have (Tekonsha Prodigy iQ) sells for about $120 CAD online, and closer to $150-180 CAD at RV dealers. When I bought my trailer, the dealer sold me the brake controller for $200 CAD installed. I already had a 7 way connector. You can get more expensive brake controllers as well, for closer to $200 CAD for just the unit.

I'm not sure what the experience of others is, but I don't think you should need to pay too much more than $300 - 350 USD for a brake controller and 7 way wiring installed.

$400 - 700 is a wide range on that ballpark quote. To me, that sounds like "I don't really know, and don't feel like checking right now." I'd press for a more specific answer.

Adrienne · June 2018

Yes, I agree. Thank you!

Marceline · June 2018

Here’s my suggestion if your heart is set on a T@B.
Buy a used T@B and apply the money saved by not buying a brand new trailer to upgrading your tow vehicle. If you buy an older T@B with surge brakes (2013 and older) you won’t have the expense of a brake controller, saving you another ~$500.

Adrienne · June 2018

Thanks for the input. Another tow vehicle isn't an option, but am looking into other options also. The savings on a used TAB isn't enough to cover the cost of the difference in price for a new vehicle, from the pricing I have seen. I know my vehicle and how it has been cared for.

Ratkity · June 2018

Don't discount the wireless brake controller from Prodigy. She can transfer it to her new TV when/if the time comes!

Freshaire · June 2018

@Adrienne, pulling is one thing. Stopping is quite another. It is scary as all get out if you have to make a quick stop and your TV is at its max, or close to it. I am not the expert on RPMs and power and there are folks on this forum that are. I wonder if there are any concerns there?

Adrienne · June 2018

Yes, some have mentioned. Isn't that why the trailer has its own brakes?

Freshaire · June 2018

Surely the trailer brakes help. I am not familiar with the percentage of stopping the trailer brakes provide versus the TV. Personally, I wanted my TV to be able to be able to tow and stop the trailer on its own. The trailer brakes I consider added insurance.

Adrienne · June 2018

Ok. Thanks for the input. I am learning a lot. 😀

rkj__ · June 2018

The 4cyl ranger will have the same brakes as the V6 model, which is rated to tow much more than a T@b.

MuttonChops · June 2018

@Adrienne

Another voice questioning the safety/performance of a 2009 Ranger and T@B combination.

= = =

From your dual posts/threads here and on FaceBook it is clear you are struggling to decide if the Ranger can tow a T@B or not. At least one person has posted they did tow for a couple of years using a similar year 4-cyl Ranger. They however also said the trips were local and of short duration and they have since upgraded to a larger / more capable TV.

So to some extent your Ranger can tow a T@B, but should it . . . you have commented on how much you enjoy the Ranger and how well you have taken care of it. For the types of long distance, extended duration trips being planned I fear they will both destroy your beloved Ranger and place yourself and others at risk.

The 2009 2.3L I-4 Automatic Ranger was not designed for the towing environment you seek with a T@B trailer.

You stated originally the Ranger is an extended cab model with a 2240# tow rating. In 2009 Ford called an extended cab a Super Cab. Ranger 2009 sales brochure states a tow rating of 2080#, a GCWR at 5500#, and the TV GVWR at 4760#.

Tow Rating assumes the Ranger only has yourself and a full tank of gas. No clothes. gear, tools, or whatever. Any items placed in the Ranger decrease the tow rating by an equal amount. So if you had 200# of stuff with you in the Ranger; actual tow capacity drops to 1,880#. A T@B 320 S with propane and a battery weights ~1,850# and that is with no dishware, toilet paper, or even the leveling (lego) blocks that ship with it from the factory.

A nearly empty Ranger and empty T@B meet your factory specified TV tow capacity.

Beyond having TV performance issues or worse damaging the beloved Ranger . . . real world you will add gear . . . As you add stuff to the T@B you will be exceeding the tow rating and the GCWR. In a really-bad-day situation with you being found liable for a road accident an investigation by your insurance company will most likely find you have been overloading the Ranger and/or combined weights and could/might decline to cover your claim or the claims of other involved vehicles.

If you cannot do a TV upgrade, I encourage you to investigate trailer models in the 1,000 to 1,300# dry weight range. These won't have indoor shower/bath options but a few do have OK porta-potty or cassette toilet options and outdoor showers.

Ford Ranger Brochure Section

Adrienne · June 2018

Yes, the only difference is the horsepower, I believe. Hitch is rated at 3500, tongue weight at 350.

Adrienne · June 2018

@mutton chops. Thanks for the input. I am gathering as much info as possible, since I am new to this. I am confused as to why Uhaul woukd let me rent a trailer that weighs as much as the T@B, plus extra load weight, if it so unsafe.

dragonsdofly · June 2018

@Adrienne, part of the issue about the towing capability of a smaller vehicle is its weight, or mass. The smaller the vehicle, the less weight, the easier it is, especially in an emergency, for the tow package to get out of control. Better brakes might not help, more horsepower may not help, but the mass and weight of your tow vehicle can keep the tail from wagging the dog. The question may not be can my vehicle pull the trailer, but can my vehicle control the tow in almost every situation, as absolutely nothing is foolproof. Adequate horsepower and braking are of primary importance, but another major consideration is physics. Can the mass of my vehicle help control a bad situation. It is great that you are doing your due diligence.

Adrienne · June 2018

@dragonsdifly. Thank you. I am really trying to avoid being duped by a dealer.

Verna · June 2018

@Adrienne, I’m sure if you were to read the small print of the UHaul contract, you, the tow vehicle‘s owner, are responsible for ensuring your vehicle is capable of towing the rented equipment. This releases UHaul for any liability if an accident by you (heaven forbid!) occurs and you are found negligent due to overloading your tow vehicle.

And the last bit of information. A couple of years ago when another of these towing discussions came up, I called my insurance agent. Her answer to towing over your vehicle’s stated limits was that if the insurance company’s investigation showed you knew you were towing over your limits, the insurance company could decline to pay for damage to your “property “, and they “probably” would pay for the other party’s damages. Your information would be sent to the underwriting personnel, who would decide if they would still want to insure you.

And with insurance companies not liking to pay for some claims, they could easily Google the Internet and they would be able to trace a discussion, such as this one, to you, proving you had knowledge of towing capacity of your Ranger.

Adrienne · June 2018

Thank you for the input.

rkj__ · June 2018

dragonsdofly said:

@Adrienne, part of the issue about the towing capability of a smaller vehicle is its weight, or mass. The smaller the vehicle, the less weight, the easier it is, especially in an emergency, for the tow package to get out of control. Better brakes might not help, more horsepower may not help, but the mass and weight of your tow vehicle can keep the tail from wagging the dog. The question may not be can my vehicle pull the trailer, but can my vehicle control the tow in almost every situation, as absolutely nothing is foolproof. Adequate horsepower and braking are of primary importance, but another major consideration is physics. Can the mass of my vehicle help control a bad situation. It is great that you are doing your due diligence.

All good points.

In in this case, the ranger weighs roughly 50% more than the T@b, so I don’t think the tail is going to wag the dog. Check out the tow ratings on full size pickups. They are way higher than the truck’s curb weight in many cases.

lightningdon · June 2018

Upgrade the TV, then buy the T@B or T@G of your dreams and tow it safely, and without worrying that you will destroy your TV while doing so.

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