How exactly do you adjust the brakes? I have a T@B Max S with the Outback axles. I understood that there should be a small hole on the inside of the hub with a rubber grommet around it that, when removed, will show a "star" gear that can be adjusted to adjust the brakes. I am unable to find any hole with a rubber grommet, and looking inside what holes there are, I am seeing no star gear. So, I'm either looking in the wrong place, or my brakes are self-adjusting?
2022 T@B 400 BD
2019 Ford F-150 3.5L Ecoboost with Long Bed
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It can be a pain in the neck. I rigged up an L-shaped pry tool from a piece of flat stock to make it easier to lever it in the cramped space.
Tighten the brakes til they drag, then back off just enough so they don't drag.
2014 S Maxx
2011 Tacoma 4cyl ... edit: 2022 Tacoma 6cyl - oh yeah!
A_Little_T@b'll_Do_Ya
2019 Ford F-150 3.5L Ecoboost with Long Bed
There's a possibility that yours would be different from ours, ours being a 2014 with hydraulic brakes.
If I were you, I'd check the service diagram for your model, you might have it with the axle documentation that came with your Tab. There's a diagram of the inside of the hub, showing the brakes breakdown. It'll give you an idea of what you're working with.
I'm kind of at a loss right now, for various bits of info that I've dug up in the past. My Tablet took a shower the other day, and hasn't been the same since... (rain and electronics don't mix, eh?)
2014 S Maxx
2011 Tacoma 4cyl ... edit: 2022 Tacoma 6cyl - oh yeah!
A_Little_T@b'll_Do_Ya
2019 Ford F-150 3.5L Ecoboost with Long Bed
2014 S Maxx
2011 Tacoma 4cyl ... edit: 2022 Tacoma 6cyl - oh yeah!
A_Little_T@b'll_Do_Ya
2019 Ford F-150 3.5L Ecoboost with Long Bed
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf
I always figure if the drum doesn't feel hot after a short drive, then the slight rubbing is ok.
Then I try a bit of harder braking, maybe on a hill, stopping and checking to see if the brake drums got warm and are doing their job.
I found out the other day that it's pretty obvious when the brakes aren't working, when I forgot to return the 'back up release lever' to enable the brakes again, after backing up. Could feel the Tab pushing when braking on a downhill.
2014 S Maxx
2011 Tacoma 4cyl ... edit: 2022 Tacoma 6cyl - oh yeah!
A_Little_T@b'll_Do_Ya
2019 Ford F-150 3.5L Ecoboost with Long Bed
Further complicating my adjustment is that the drag on the wheels is not uniform--there seems to be a high spot that grabs a little harder than everywhere else. If in doubt, I also err on the side of loose rather than tight.
First, here's my view of the two adjustment holes I found on the right/passenger side of our T@B. On this side, the rear one gave me access, but on the driver side the forward hole may work better. On ours, neither hole on either side had any rubber plug, which makes me wonder whether we should get some.
This illustration of the part, which I borrowed for discussion, shows the small gear-like "star wheel" that needs to be turned using a screwdriver. Note that it functions like the head of a threaded bolt, screwing into a sleeve, such that when unscrewed (by leveraging the screwdriver upwards), as indicated by the curved arrow, it pushes the assembly apart. This adjustment then pushes the two brake shoes apart & against the inside of the brake drum, tightening the grip.
At least, this is my understanding from studying all the parts in the pictures - please correct me if I am wrong.
This video frame shows the two access holes & the star-wheel rod between the two brake shoes at left & right. This is a left/driver side brake, so the nearest access hole is the forward one.
Here is a broader view of a right/passenger side brake assembly, where I've drawn the approximate locations of the access holes on the other side. Although the closest access hole is different on left & right sides, the adjustment direction is the same on both - upwards to tighten and downwards to loosen the grip.
Tip: If you get "up-tight", you won't forget which way to turn it!
Actually, "up tight & out of sight" seems fitting too, since you're pretty much working only by feel. While you can't actually see the wheel turn, you can feel it click into the next position.
TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6)
RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
2019 T@B 320 S Boondock Edge named "Binky" | TV: 2016 Chevy Colorado Z71 with full tow package and a Leer Cap for lots of storage
I'm New to nuCamp and TearDrops but have owned a Class A in the past
What needs to be noted is that this does not directly have anything to do with adjusting the brakes. It is possible that using the brakes more carefully and evenly may reduce the pad/drum wear, but it does not prevent it. It also must be noted that the controller does not in any way affect the brake/drum clearance that must be maintained for proper braking. As brakes wear (pads get thinner/drum wears down) the clearance between them changes. The star adjuster procedure that has been well described in this thread explains how to maintain the correct clearance. That the brakes are properly adjusted is a presumption that brake controller manufactures assume as a given. Carefully using controller boost does not eliminate the need to properly maintain the brakes. Not that you suggested that. You didn't. But, just to be safe and make sure that anyone new to folks working on brakes understands, the brake boost does not alter the brake pad/drum clearance. Does that make sense???? I hope so.
Raybestos H1456K Professional Grade Brake Backing Plate Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002EP9U50
I was able to quickly push them on by laying on my back & reaching around behind the wheel with one arm - no need for a jack. What's nice is that they have a lip at each end of the inner side, and I suspect the commonly missing plugs may not have this lip to hold them in. They don't cost much, so I got two sets in case any of the new ones go AWOL.
TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6)
RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6)
RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
2019 Ford F-150 3.5L Ecoboost with Long Bed
http://trailerparts.com/pdfs/Dexter122.pdf
PS: There is also a more extensive "complete service manual" ("600-8K_Complete_Service_Manual.pdf"), but I could not get into dexteraxle.com today..
https://www.dexteraxle.com/docs/default-source/dexteraxle/product-documentation/manuals/600-8k_complete_service_manual.pdf
TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6)
RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
2020 320S Boondock Lite (silver w/blue)
2019 Subaru Ascent Premium
If you are certain that you are not hearing a hitch clunk you could try adjusting the brakes. I'd be inclined to pull the wheel and make sure that the drum is properly installed and check that the springs are properly installed. Then I would put it back together, torque the castellated nut, lugs and properly adjust the brakes before taking it for a test drive. If you worked on a Vdub you should have no problem with the T@B.
It's a good idea to get into the habit of checking the wheel lugs and brakes within the first hundred miles after they are serviced and also if they are new.
2019 T@B400 Boondock Lite "Todd"
Cheers
https://www.dexteraxle.com/docs/default-source/dexteraxle/product-documentation/manuals/600-8k_complete_service_manual.pdf