How Does Hooking Up to City Water Work

tpurr02

I have had this question for a long time but I dreaded asking it because it seems so elementary that I should know the answer, but I don't and I can't get a straight answer even on Youtube.  So, here it goes....
When I hook up to city water, and turn it on, do I keep it turned on or do I turn it off until I need water?  Meaning if do not need water, the city water spigot if off, but if I need to wash the dishes, I go back outside and turn on the city water spigot and then turn on the faucet inside.    If the water is turned on continuously, where does it go?  It's not filling my fresh water tank is it?  If yes, won't if overflow?  Also, do I need to turn on the water pump if I am hooked up to city water?   

Thanks for your help!

RZRBUG

The city water and water tank are not connected.  You do not need to turn on your inside water pump if connected to city water.  It only operates the fresh water tank.  You can turn on the city water and leave it on.

If you haven't already, you probably should get a pressure regulator that screws onto the end of your hose, then connects to the T@B.  Many campgrounds have pressure that is too high for the T@B.

RZRBUG

The regulator looks like this and can be bought in the RV section at Wal-Mart, or any RV supply store.

BTW, the only bad question is the one not asked.

jkjenn

City water is "on demand", meaning, once you turn it on outside, it will be immediately available when you open a faucet inside.

Pressure regulator is a must. A big rig owner parked next to me in Moab late year recommended putting the regulator between the hookup at the campground and your hose. He said leaving the hose n the sun will build up some pressure and putting the regulator first could help offset that.

RZRBUG

Jenn, if the heat from the sun can build up pressure in the hose (and it can to some extent), doesn't it make sense to put the regulator next to the T@B?  I mean, if you put the regulator at the campground connection and the sun builds up pressure past the regulator, that pressure is then unregulated at the trailer connection.

mawebb

In terms of turning off the city water when water is not being used, there is no need to do so. As stated in other posts, you need to use a pressure regulator to protect your T@B plumbing. Connect it between the campsite tap and your potable water hose. This will protect your hose as well as your plumbing. I would, however, recommend turning off the water supply when you leave your campsite for some time.  This will prevent any nasty surprises, as the system is comprised of plastic pipes, many of which are compression fittings that can fail, albeit unlikely. 

And back to the term of "potable water", that means drinkable water. Standard garden hoses are not suitable for drinking water as they can harbour bacteria and some have fittings that use lead. Make sure you hose is rated "potable" and remember to keep you "potable" hose separate from you sewer hoses and adapters. They also recommend you sanitize the hose occasionally. 

meklof

Connecting to city water is a great way to get plenty of water (until your gray water tank is full, that is. . Still I recommend that you check your water connections in the T@B when the water is turned on outside. The older T@B trailers like ours use mostly hoses which can easily leak at the connections if you have too much water pressure even with a pressure regulator. I am not sure how solid the pipe/hose connections are in the newer trailers but I have seen leaks in a newer T@B's as well as older ones if the pressure was too high. We usually turn off the water at the source when we do not use it for a long period during the day just to be on the safe side.
Wishing you a season filled with happy outings with your T@B

kybob

I was wondering about that, too. Thanks for asking this question tpurr02!

ChanW

Yes, use a pressure limiter, and check all your pipes after they've been used for a little while, even in the newer Tabs.

I found, after a few weeks of using our new LG Tab, that one of the fittings supplying the shower faucet had been leaking. It had dripped down the pipe leaving a moist spot on the Tab floor framing. I was lucky to have found it so early, as it would have rotted the wood over time.

(After looking it over, I could see that the problem stemmed from poor installation of the plumbing fixture. The fitting was being squeezed by the wall's screw-on access panel, making it leak. I was able to space the panel away a bit, giving the plumbing more room.)

Good idea to regularly check all plumbing connections for dampness.

Nomad

"wall's screw-on access panel" - that exterior panel by the driver's side bench seat?

ChanW

Yes, sorry. It gives access to the back of the shower fixture, for service and replacement (or stopping leaks!) There wasn't enough space in the thickness of the wall cavity to allow room for the el fitting attached to the faucet fixture. I think I spaced the panel out around 1/8" to give more clearance.

Nomad

Thanks - Gonna have to check that.

ChanW

If you look in the bench seat, directly below the wall cavity, you'd be able to see if there'd been any leaking. But then again, if the panel is rubbing against the fitting, it could loosen it over time with the vibration of travel...

I did tell LG about it. I'd expect they've corrected the problem in their design.

Michigan_Mike

Great discussion, great questions and excellent feedback!   And as noted, the only dumb questions are the ones not asked.   The above points listed are well taken and make perfect sense and even an old salt like me can learn something new.

Some observations made and noted for old & new:

• City Water Hook-Up - supplies water directly into the trailer from park spigot.
• Fresh Water Hook-Up - Is filled from the side port and pumps up into trailer via trailer pump as needed.
• Pressure Valve - Use to regulate incoming pressure from park's water hook-up.
• Shut off water when not in use or when away for extended periods!  Good advice for sure!
• Inspect & check trailer plumbing and fixtures -  very important to routinely check your fittings for leaks, wear or damage.  Check inside the trailer and even beneath the trailer for any signs of leaks, etc.  

Water damage can be serious and this is a great discussion as I do know that from time to time there are issues that have been discovered in the trailers by owners whether it be from Mother Nature or via a loose or defective fitting.   Water is the most invasive and erosional element on the planet and will find it's way into any opening, whether large or small.   I know that I do my best to shut off water in my home (flipping the main breaker on my pump) and also shut off my outside faucets on the house.  And with horror stories of broken/frozen pipes, cracked fittings via frost/winter temperatures, I have installed the braided hoses on my washer in the laundry room.  Unfortunately, many of these tasks and upgrades have come via the agony and misfortune of friends, neighbors and family members and personal experience.  

Thanks to all who have contributed as we can all learn and benefit from these types of discussions.  

Well done!
  

Nomad

Mike - Think I'd remove the "hook-up" from fresh water - implies you hook something up similar to city water. Fresh-Water Port?

tpurr02

Thank you everyone for all the terrific information and recommendations.  I am so relieved!

Nomad

Sandra - No, it automatically switches if you're hooked up. My guess is it's probably controlled by the water pressure from the hookup.

ChanW

Sort of.

There's only a wall switch for the pump that's used for the on-board water. 

It should be noted that it should never be switched on when using city water.

Ratkity

Michigan_Mike said:

....
Water damage can be serious and this is a great discussion as I do know that from time to time there are issues that have been discovered in the trailers by owners whether it be from Mother Nature or via a loose or defective fitting.   Water is the most invasive and erosional element on the planet and will find it's way into any opening, whether large or small.   I know that I do my best to shut off water in my home (flipping the main breaker on my pump) and also shut off my outside faucets on the house.  And with horror stories of broken/frozen pipes, cracked fittings via frost/winter temperatures, I have installed the braided hoses on my washer in the laundry room.  Unfortunately, many of these tasks and upgrades have come via the agony and misfortune of friends, neighbors and family members and personal experience.  

Thanks to all who have contributed as we can all learn and benefit from these types of discussions.  

Well done!
  

Non-T@B experience. New old house with full basement, clothes washer included with non-braided hoses. It was on my list to change those hoses out! Several months later, woke up one morning to a strange sound from the basement. Split hot water washing machine hose, pointing straight up at the basement ceiling. Not just a flooded basement, but the water hit the ceiling and sprayed down like a sprinkler system. *sigh* Lesson learned. Always use braided water hoses for the washing machine.

Cheers!

ChanW

re: braided washing machine hose, or braided supply lines...

Be sure the ones you get are certified by a US or Canadian plumbing performance standards organization like UPC, IAPMO, or CSA. It'll have their mark on it.

There's some real junk that comes into the big-box stores, usually made in China for the US market, designed only to look good... ie: pretty braided hose. 

Seen some failures in that stuff. Not pretty when it fails. The braiding can separate and allow a bubble in the hose, or can separate from the end fitting, and the end fittings can corrode right off the hose.

So, just cuz it's braided don't make it good... 

There's a guy somewhere online that decided to make a reliable industrial-strength washer hose (I think he uses hydraulics parts), and sell them as a side business. I got some, and they're pretty impressive hoses, (as hoses go... grin)

jkjenn

RZRBUG said:

Jenn, if the heat from the sun can build up pressure in the hose (and it can to some extent), doesn't it make sense to put the regulator next to the T@B?  I mean, if you put the regulator at the campground connection and the sun builds up pressure past the regulator, that pressure is then unregulated at the trailer connection.

That is what I wondered, too. There seems to be 2 very different schools if thought, but it does make sense to me that replacing a hose is better than dealing with damage from the pent up pressure.

But, I will say, no issues from hose laying in full sun in July in Moab.

gbell

New question regarding city water and cabinet. . We are in Wyoming camping with city water and even with a regulator on we found a water leak. Exacty where I don't know. Unfortunately it is under the cabinet bottom shelf of our t@b max s 2016. And some under toilet area that I could feel.I don't think it was for long but long enough.  I turned off the city water line etc and dried out the cabinets as well as possible. 

How can I possibly get under the piece of wood too see what is going on. None of the water lines that I could see or feel were wet, so it must be under the wood shelving somewhere.  One thought I had was could it have run in from the entrance port? Because of too much pressure, even with a regulator?
Any ideas would be great. 

Does anyone think that I could use the fresh water tank and lines, and pump or could theses be compromised? 2 week trip. Ohhhhh.

cmac

Call me anal if ya want, but I use 2 regulators:  one at the faucet and one at the T@B for our clamshell.  Gets the pressure down to about 25/30 psi which is enough for the kitchen sink faucet and I don't have to worry about leaks.  I also turn the supply faucet off at night and during extended absences from the trailer just to be safe.  I already repaired/replaced the kitchen sides and floor once and it is no fun - due to the famous clamshell hatch leak.
John

Michigan_Mike

gbell said:

New question regarding city water and cabinet. . We are in Wyoming camping with city water and even with a regulator on we found a water leak. Exacty where I don't know. Unfortunately it is under the cabinet bottom shelf of our t@b max s 2016. And some under toilet area that I could feel.I don't think it was for long but long enough.  I turned off the city water line etc and dried out the cabinets as well as possible. 

How can I possibly get under the piece of wood too see what is going on. None of the water lines that I could see or feel were wet, so it must be under the wood shelving somewhere.  One thought I had was could it have run in from the entrance port? Because of too much pressure, even with a regulator?
Any ideas would be great. 

Does anyone think that I could use the fresh water tank and lines, and pump or could theses be compromised? 2 week trip. Ohhhhh.

You have the S model so it could potentially be occurring via the shower or possibly leaking at the pump connections behind the access door in the shower area.  It's not to say that you don't have a leak beneath the cabinet, but maybe the water is leaking in the shower area and flowing underneath your cabinet?  If the water is beneath the cabinet area I would suspect that it also could be leaking from the faucet fittings where the water lines screw onto the faucet fixture threads at the sink and water could easily be running down the line onto the floor beneath the cabinet.  I doubt that there would be any fittings under the cabinet area and would suspect that it is originating at the faucets (and then running down and pooling beneath the cabinet) or potentially in the shower area via the shower (running underneath the shower), toilet water supply, etc.  

There is an access panel for the shower on the wall outside the shower and you could easily open it up and see if there is any leaking behind the shower head and faucets.  Additionally you can open up the bench directly behind the shower area and take a flashlight and look into the floor area behind the shower for any evidence of water.  I know that Verna had a small leak about a year ago behind the shower wall and it originated at the shower head fitting behind the wall, just inside the access area.  

Verna noticed a water leak in her trailer and the factory found that the fitting to the shower head behind the wall access panel was leaking.....  Have you checked the small access door beneath the Norcold frig?  I had a water entry issue there and the factory found that a screw outside the trailer on one of the Norcold's intake/exhaust ports was missing silicone and allowing water to enter the trailer in massive downpours of rain.  Since water is the greatest erosional force on the planet it also will easily find it's way into any crevice or opening provided and wreaks havoc for all of us.  

And as noted, a pressure valve should be used (sounds like you have one already) on the hose fitting at the campground water source to cut down the pressure to the trailer as it helps.  

Sharon_is_SAM

If you have a plumbing leak leading to your sink, it will still leak using the fresh water tank and pump.  Lower pressure, but it may still leak.  Try getting a new pressureregulator and see if that works.  They have been known to fail.  Where are you locating your water pressure regulator?

gbell

I will try a new pressure regulator. Maybe two. Norcold areas are all sealed. I will open to the shower access next stop and see if anything is leaking. I am afraid it could be behind the toilet area. How in the world would they fix some place like that?

Michigan_Mike

gbell said:

I am afraid it could be behind the toilet area. How in the world would they fix some place like that?

They build the trailers and assemble things during the build.  They also do various repairs and trouble-shoot the trailers and know them inside and out.  They will figure things out and repair the issue.