Depends on how risk averse you are. If you intend to only boondock and never connect to shore power then probably you probably don't need anything. If you do intend to connect to shore power at a state, national, or commercial park it might be a good idea. However, a "surge protector" is a limiting term. You probably want an "energy management system." A surge protector will only protect your camper from a voltage surge. Those happen but are not particularly common. What is more common are voltage drops (when everyone in an RV park turns their AC on at the same time), improperly wired electrical pylons (220 vac instead of 120 vac), reverse-polarity situations (when the RV park either has electrical issues or a less than knowledgeable electrician), or even out-of-range frequency power. I use, and recommend, the Progressive Industries EMS-PT30X. It is not a cheap item, but neither is re-wiring your trailer. Its real value is that it will analyze the power at the pedestal and not allow power to flow to the trailer if there is an issue. Also, if a problem develops while you are connected (a surge, a brown-out, etc.) it will disconnect you from the electrical system. I think there are others here with the same system who will recommend it.
Please note the hard-wired Progressive Industries unit will not work off a generator (Honda, etc.). The generator has a "floating ground." You'll need to rig a special 3-W plug in order for it to work. Search YouTube for several videos.
2016 Outback 320 with a 2010 Ford Expedition, 2024 Ford F150 Supercrew short bed.
I think a surge protector or energy management system is a good idea. In fact, I've have great intentions to invest in one for the last five years... ;-)
I agree that it all depends on your risk aversion and how you use your camper. I camp without shore power at least half the time. When I do have hook-ups, I check the pedestal for voltage and polarity before plugging in. This does not require a fancy EMS as it can be accomplished with an inexpensive hand-held tester. My T@B does not have an air-conditioner, the appliance probably most susceptible to voltage fluctuations.
The rest is a calculated risk, with a dose of cheap and lazy thrown in. Maybe next season... :-)
I agree with scott, I believe that it is another optional gadget. With that said, I have the hardwired version and it has disconnected a couple of times from voltage sag at two different campgrounds. It is anybodys guess whether there would have been any damage.
I fall into the better safe than sorry.
2009 GMC Canyon, 3.7 liter 2020 320s Boondock lite, With Lots of mods
I think a surge protector or energy management system is a good idea. In fact, I've have great intentions to invest in one for the last five years... ;-)
I agree that it all depends on your risk aversion and how you use your camper. I camp without shore power at least half the time. When I do have hook-ups, I check the pedestal for voltage and polarity before plugging in. This does not require a fancy EMS as it can be accomplished with an inexpensive hand-held tester. My T@B does not have an air-conditioner, the appliance probably most susceptible to voltage fluctuations.
The rest is a calculated risk, with a dose of cheap and lazy thrown in. Maybe next season... :-)
YMMV!
That's an interesting approach and perspective. I do have A/C and I can see the value of having something to govern the power supply to my trailer. (I will usually use shore power at least as my plans stand now-I've only just bought a Tab though, so who knows where it might take me down the road.) I'm suffering from an attack of cheapskate-itis when it comes to fully featured $200+ surge guards like the above-mentioned Progressive Industries EMS-PT30X. But I don't want to needlessly risk damage to my trailer systems. I wonder if a combination of a tester like you use and a basic (sub-$100) voltage regulator/surge protector would suffice? Of course at that point you've probably spent nearly enough to buy a full-feature model anyway. Are there any sub-$100 models that would offer adequate protection from voltage irregularities if I were less concerned about testing the power source? Most of the places I hope to stay are popular enough that they should have their power-supplies properly sorted by now.
@stevef, I haven't shopped surge protectors for a while but my impression was that the while they come in a wide price range, the "good" ones will easily top $100. If I'm wrong about that someone please correct me!
However, I suppose anything is better than nothing.
I've removed the air conditioner and entertainment gee-gaw, and my 2015 does not have many of the electronics installed in newer models. The only device that I suspect may be susceptible to voltage variation--and this is just an unfounded guess--is the WFCO converter. However, if needed I could probably treat myself to a new one of those for less $$$ than a quality EMS.
My experience this summer with the Progressive Industries EMS was an eye opener....a good experience.
Indianapolis was experiencing hot temps in the upper 90’s. I was in an RV park with 136 other camper ranging from pop ups to truck campers to 43’+ Class A big rigs, and one really great looking T@B 400 😉.
My Cool Cat was giving me every indication it was “short cycling” and not keeping the 400 cool during the sunny daytime hours. Surprisingly because this was the second spell of extremely hot temps for Indy.
But, after talking to the office, the Local power company had discovered a defective part in the distribution of power to not only the RV park, but also the residential customers further down the road. We were not being given enough power. When I thought the Cool Cat was short cycling, the EMS was actually shutting the Cool Cat down rather than risk it being damaged be the low voltage. After 3 days, the weather broke and the defective power part was replaced.
So, without any intervention on my part, the EMS automatically chose the proper path to take to save me from having to replace the Cool Cat. I like my EMS. It is worth the money I spent on it.
The factory installed it and I do not know which model it was other than around $200 Plus or minus. It is the Progressive Industries brand.
Verna, Columbus, IN 2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B” Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
I have the Progressive EMS and use it everywhere, even when hooked up at home. I learned this painfully when a low voltage surge (we live in a rural area) ruined my converter. The bill for a new converter cost more than an EMS. Yes, I'm a believer and I use it now whenever plugged into shore power.
Good info, @T@Balong. While I understand electricity and wiring, the electronics within a converter are outside my pay grade. I'm not surprised they would be susceptible to damage from voltage spikes or brown outs.
Regardless--assuming I do the work myself--I could replace my converter for <$150. Not that I'd want to. So I'm stickin' to my story! Sort of... :-)
I think the EMS is the device I need with the power issues I encounter. My question would be then do you buy the 50 amp or the 30amp version? Do most camp grounds run 50AMP? Thinking then you could get the dog bone adapter to use your 30AMP power cord. Just another newbie asking more questions.
To @Verna 'a point, an EMS does far more than protect your convertor, it actually protects expensive appliances, like your AC and Alde. It will also protect you from RV hot skin.
Mine has also saved me during low power periods when the infrastructure was stressed and also from bad wiring at park pedestals. It also spared me from a surge from lightning once.
Not cheap but so worth it. I love the permanent install because it can be a "fix it and forget it" install.
Learning about the EMS was one of the many things I picked up from the Yahoo group owners.
2021 T@b 320 Boondock "Mattie Ross" | 2021 T@b Nights: 239 | Total nights in a T@b 455 | 2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee L Overland | T@b owner since 2014
I think the EMS is the device I need with the power issues I encounter. My question would be then do you buy the 50 amp or the 30amp version? Do most camp grounds run 50AMP? Thinking then you could get the dog bone adapter to use your 30AMP power cord. Just another newbie asking more questions.
Amperage ratings are based on how much power you are drawing with your electrical devices. Even if the campground pedestal is capable of delivering 50 amps, your T@B will never draw more than 30 amps.
As Sharon noted, you will need an adapter to plug your 120V/30A cable into a 240V/50A receptacle, but your 30A EMS will be sufficient.
@tabaz I have that same power management system. My Honda Generator has a link between the white neutral and the ground (frame). It runs without any modifications at all to the plug. I do carry a long ground lead which I clamp to the generator and either a water pipe or drive a copper rod into the ground.
I recently purchased a used 2016 T@B320S and I decided to have a 30AMP service installed at my home where the trailer is parked. Though the home is equipped with a surge protection system, I went ahead and ordered a surge protector for the trailer itself. I have returned to RVing after being absent for a number of years, and I have seen the weirdness in the past with the miswired and or otherwise sketchy RV parks power systems to know it is better to have that protection available.
I believe that it is better to spend a bit more money now than blow the bank later.
Comments
2014 S Maxx
2011 Tacoma 4cyl ... edit: 2022 Tacoma 6cyl - oh yeah!
A_Little_T@b'll_Do_Ya
If you do intend to connect to shore power at a state, national, or commercial park it might be a good idea. However, a "surge protector" is a limiting term. You probably want an "energy management system." A surge protector will only protect your camper from a voltage surge. Those happen but are not particularly common. What is more common are voltage drops (when everyone in an RV park turns their AC on at the same time), improperly wired electrical pylons (220 vac instead of 120 vac), reverse-polarity situations (when the RV park either has electrical issues or a less than knowledgeable electrician), or even out-of-range frequency power.
I use, and recommend, the Progressive Industries EMS-PT30X. It is not a cheap item, but neither is re-wiring your trailer. Its real value is that it will analyze the power at the pedestal and not allow power to flow to the trailer if there is an issue. Also, if a problem develops while you are connected (a surge, a brown-out, etc.) it will disconnect you from the electrical system.
I think there are others here with the same system who will recommend it.
https://www.progressiveindustries.net.
2024 Ford F150 Supercrew short bed.
I fall into the better safe than sorry.
2020 320s Boondock lite, With Lots of mods
That's an interesting approach and perspective. I do have A/C and I can see the value of having something to govern the power supply to my trailer. (I will usually use shore power at least as my plans stand now-I've only just bought a Tab though, so who knows where it might take me down the road.) I'm suffering from an attack of cheapskate-itis when it comes to fully featured $200+ surge guards like the above-mentioned Progressive Industries EMS-PT30X. But I don't want to needlessly risk damage to my trailer systems. I wonder if a combination of a tester like you use and a basic (sub-$100) voltage regulator/surge protector would suffice? Of course at that point you've probably spent nearly enough to buy a full-feature model anyway. Are there any sub-$100 models that would offer adequate protection from voltage irregularities if I were less concerned about testing the power source? Most of the places I hope to stay are popular enough that they should have their power-supplies properly sorted by now.
money I spent on it.
2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B”
Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
Mine has also saved me during low power periods when the infrastructure was stressed and also from bad wiring at park pedestals. It also spared me from a surge from lightning once.
Not cheap but so worth it. I love the permanent install because it can be a "fix it and forget it" install.
Learning about the EMS was one of the many things I picked up from the Yahoo group owners.
2021 T@b 320 Boondock "Mattie Ross" | 2021 T@b Nights: 239 | Total nights in a T@b 455 | 2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee L Overland | T@b owner since 2014
I have returned to RVing after being absent for a number of years, and I have seen the weirdness in the past with the miswired and or otherwise sketchy RV parks power systems to know it is better to have that protection available.
I believe that it is better to spend a bit more money now than blow the bank later.
Tow Vehicle - 2018 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited
Trailer - 2016 T@B320S