No more bent Jacks - Installing a Jack-e-up on a 320 Boondock

Cherokee

Don't let this happen to you - taken from the web:

How it happens -note the jack embracing the trail:

Note: this can happen on the street to

The fix:

After hitching, the jack is cranked down, twisted and removed:

Note that the placement of the Jack-e-up conflicts with the tire support framing.

We through bolted thru steel tubes cut to length above our Lock-n-roll coupler to allow the device to mount:

Note: due to the superior engineering of the Lock-n-Roll system, the safety chains are superfluous and we no

longer let them drag on the trail. However, we add them back when we air-up to appease the authorities.

   

Removed from the TV, the Jack is extended to engage the device above our Croft 10" Jack wheel

CHEERS!

Denny16

Nice looking setup.  Did you find yourself in situations when the original hitch didn’t offer enough movement between the trailer and TV?
cheers

Cherokee

Denny16 said:

Nice looking setup.  Did you find yourself in situations when the original hitch didn’t offer enough movement between the trailer and TV?
cheers

Thanks! The lock-n-Roll was added shortly after we got the trailer - preempting the sad stories I herd about a 2" ball and NuCamps good, but constraining coupler. Unfortunately, I waited till I bent a Jack to order the Jack-e-up. Fortunately, trailer jacks are $60 cheep, but getting home with a bent one requires too much time bonding with a bottle jack. - Cheers 

gulfarea

Cherokee, on my Jack-e-up I cut out this area of the Jack-e-up and removed the aluminum rail. Now I can swing my Jeep tale gate open for access into the Jeep after removing the jack. Art

gulfarea

Here is photo Art

Cherokee

gulfarea said:

Cherokee, on my Jack-e-up I cut out this area of the Jack-e-up and removed the aluminum rail. Now I can swing my Jeep tale gate open for access into the Jeep after removing the jack. Art

Looks like a good solution. A little cutting gets you to the same place my longer bolts produced.

Tampakayaker

Cherokee said:

Denny16 said:

Nice looking setup.  Did you find yourself in situations when the original hitch didn’t offer enough movement between the trailer and TV?
cheers

Thanks! The lock-n-Roll was added shortly after we got the trailer - preempting the sad stories I herd about a 2" ball and NuCamps good, but constraining coupler. Unfortunately, I waited till I bent a Jack to order the Jack-e-up. Fortunately, trailer jacks are $60 cheep, but getting home with a bent one requires too much time bonding with a bottle jack. - Cheers 

That Lock n Roll is pretty impressive.

Cherokee

Tampakayaker said:

Cherokee said:

Denny16 said:

Nice looking setup.  Did you find yourself in situations when the original hitch didn’t offer enough movement between the trailer and TV?
cheers

Thanks! The lock-n-Roll was added shortly after we got the trailer - preempting the sad stories I herd about a 2" ball and NuCamps good, but constraining coupler. Unfortunately, I waited till I bent a Jack to order the Jack-e-up. Fortunately, trailer jacks are $60 cheep, but getting home with a bent one requires too much time bonding with a bottle jack. - Cheers 

That Lock n Roll is pretty impressive.

Thanks! Check out it's advantages:

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/9352/lock-roll-hitch-coupler#latest

jkjenn

Cherokee said:

Denny16 said:

Nice looking setup.  Did you find yourself in situations when the original hitch didn’t offer enough movement between the trailer and TV?
cheers

Thanks! The lock-n-Roll was added shortly after we got the trailer - preempting the sad stories I herd about a 2" ball and NuCamps good, but constraining coupler. Unfortunately, I waited till I bent a Jack to order the Jack-e-up. Fortunately, trailer jacks are $60 cheep, but getting home with a bent one requires too much time bonding with a bottle jack. - Cheers 

I think a lot of those stories are user error, from people who have never towed before. If there is weight forward on the hitch, people will have difficulty closing or opening the coupler. Move to a level spot and you are good.

Cherokee

jkjenn said:

Cherokee said:

Denny16 said:

Nice looking setup.  Did you find yourself in situations when the original hitch didn’t offer enough movement between the trailer and TV?
cheers

Thanks! The lock-n-Roll was added shortly after we got the trailer - preempting the sad stories I herd about a 2" ball and NuCamps good, but constraining coupler. Unfortunately, I waited till I bent a Jack to order the Jack-e-up. Fortunately, trailer jacks are $60 cheep, but getting home with a bent one requires too much time bonding with a bottle jack. - Cheers 

I think a lot of those stories are user error, from people who have never towed before. If there is weight forward on the hitch, people will have difficulty closing or opening the coupler. Move to a level spot and you are good.

You are correct about moving to a level spot, but that's not always easy to find where I take my T@B. When I picked up my trailer, the dealer had to rock the trailer back and forth to get it to latch. Perhaps, I should have clarified that the limited range of movement in a  NuCamp coupler is what I herd about - Note this is not an issue on the street. As I said, it is a good coupler. However, not all ball couplers perform the same, and for my  use, range is important. It would be physically impossible to match the movement of a lock-n-roll coupler with a ball. When T@B owned Little Guy, they put a different coupler on the Rough Rider off road teardrop for the same reason I changed mine.The Range of the stock coupler is documented here:

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/9352/lock-roll-hitch-coupler#latest

jkjenn

Cherokee said:

jkjenn said:

Cherokee said:

Denny16 said:

Nice looking setup.  Did you find yourself in situations when the original hitch didn’t offer enough movement between the trailer and TV?
cheers

Thanks! The lock-n-Roll was added shortly after we got the trailer - preempting the sad stories I herd about a 2" ball and NuCamps good, but constraining coupler. Unfortunately, I waited till I bent a Jack to order the Jack-e-up. Fortunately, trailer jacks are $60 cheep, but getting home with a bent one requires too much time bonding with a bottle jack. - Cheers 

I think a lot of those stories are user error, from people who have never towed before. If there is weight forward on the hitch, people will have difficulty closing or opening the coupler. Move to a level spot and you are good.

You are correct about moving to a level spot, but that's not always easy to find where I take my T@B. When I picked up my trailer, the dealer had to rock the trailer back and forth to get it to latch. Perhaps, I should have clarified that the limited range of movement in a  NuCamp coupler is what I herd about - Note this is not an issue on the street. As I said, it is a good coupler. However, not all ball couplers perform the same, and for my  use, range is important. It would be physically impossible to match the movement of a lock-n-roll coupler with a ball. When T@B owned Little Guy, they put a different coupler on the Rough Rider off road teardrop for the same reason I changed mine.The Range of the stock coupler is documented here:

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/9352/lock-roll-hitch-coupler#latest

Yup. The Lock and Roll has its place. I almost put one on my old M416 trailer. The average T@b user doesn't need to make the change. Probably best for those doing serious off roading. 

I typically do fin by just pull to a non sloped area releasing the coupler but moving the T@b very slowly into place. It is more about not having weight forward on the hitch than being perfectly level.

Cherokee

jkjenn said:

Cherokee said:

jkjenn said:

Cherokee said:

Denny16 said:

Nice looking setup.  Did you find yourself in situations when the original hitch didn’t offer enough movement between the trailer and TV?
cheers

Thanks! The lock-n-Roll was added shortly after we got the trailer - preempting the sad stories I herd about a 2" ball and NuCamps good, but constraining coupler. Unfortunately, I waited till I bent a Jack to order the Jack-e-up. Fortunately, trailer jacks are $60 cheep, but getting home with a bent one requires too much time bonding with a bottle jack. - Cheers 

I think a lot of those stories are user error, from people who have never towed before. If there is weight forward on the hitch, people will have difficulty closing or opening the coupler. Move to a level spot and you are good.

You are correct about moving to a level spot, but that's not always easy to find where I take my T@B. When I picked up my trailer, the dealer had to rock the trailer back and forth to get it to latch. Perhaps, I should have clarified that the limited range of movement in a  NuCamp coupler is what I herd about - Note this is not an issue on the street. As I said, it is a good coupler. However, not all ball couplers perform the same, and for my  use, range is important. It would be physically impossible to match the movement of a lock-n-roll coupler with a ball. When T@B owned Little Guy, they put a different coupler on the Rough Rider off road teardrop for the same reason I changed mine.The Range of the stock coupler is documented here:

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/9352/lock-roll-hitch-coupler#latest

Yup. The Lock and Roll has its place. I almost put one on my old M416 trailer. The average T@b user doesn't need to make the change. Probably best for those doing serious off roading. 

I typically do fin by just pull to a non sloped area releasing the coupler but moving the T@b very slowly into place. It is more about not having weight forward on the hitch than being perfectly level.

Wasn't the M416 was a Vietnam era Military Jeep trailer? Do you still have it? You're right that most T@B owners don't need a Lock-n-roll hitch; but when I saw Mandy's video showing NuCamp coming up to hers with a jig to lift her 320 up to replace the frame, I vowed to get one prior to attempting any 4x4 road in my Boondock tougher then a well graded one. 4X4 experience does tend to change one's prospective. I've hitched my TAB on a steep slope that I couldn't have with a ball. However, your method sound's like good advice for a ball coupler though. The Jack-e-up compliments the set-up to.    

bergger

The lock n roll is a great off road hitch.  I had one on my overland trailer about 15 years ago.  Worked great.  However if anyone is considering this type of hitch for their 320 or Tag BD I recommend using the Max Coupler over the lock n roll.  I used one on my second off road trailer and in my opinion it has a few advantages over the lock n roll.  It's quieter and I never had an issue with it binding up or sticking when trying to un-hook it.  Sometimes the lock n roll latching plates will stick or bind up and can be difficult to open.  The max coupler just has a pin to pull.  But both great options.  However on my latest trailer, a 400 I don't think either will be needed!  

gspdx

@bergger: why do you think you won't need the articulating hitch for the 400?

The reason I ask is I have a 400 and don't plan to convert.  I do plan to go into more remote areas but will just be getting more off the beaten path this year.  I don't think I will be going as far as @Cherokee but still it only takes one dry creek bed to complicate a perfectly fun drive!

When I lived in Utah I had a pop up camper and I camped with people that had big trailers and they dragged those things into some unbelievable places.  Nobody ever worried about that.  The all had standard balls with WDH setups and I can remember following them up some really serious mountain forest roads and watching the trailers sway back and forth and wondering when one was going to go over on its side!

bergger

gspdx said:

@bergger: why do you think you won't need the articulating hitch for the 400?

The 400 won't be able to be towed any place where a lock n roll or max coupler is needed.  The places I took my old trailers were crazy and the looks I got from people who saw me in those places validated that.  A max coupler was necessary, not so much for the trailer rolling, they won't stop that from happening, but for keeping it attached to the truck.  A 2" ball will pop off in extreme terrain.  My last trailer was an off road A-frame with a standard 2" ball and I took that down some really good roads here in Colorado with no issues.  Probably places I won't take the 400 but who knows maybe I'll try.  A few dry creek beds and off camber forest roads are no problem for a standard 2" ball when carefully towed.  But I have heard the standard coupler on the 400 can be finicky so maybe in the future I will have a max coupler added.  They are easy to hook up and un-hook in my opinion.  

Cherokee

bergger said:

The lock n roll is a great off road hitch.  I had one on my overland trailer about 15 years ago.  Worked great.  However if anyone is considering this type of hitch for their 320 or Tag BD I recommend using the Max Coupler over the lock n roll.  I used one on my second off road trailer and in my opinion it has a few advantages over the lock n roll.  It's quieter and I never had an issue with it binding up or sticking when trying to un-hook it.  Sometimes the lock n roll latching plates will stick or bind up and can be difficult to open.  The max coupler just has a pin to pull.  But both great options.  However on my latest trailer, a 400 I don't think either will be needed!  

Odd, though I've towed my 320 Boondock through several trails, the rock & roll hitch has never bind. However, sometimes a light tap is needed to dislodge the swinging plates. Lubrication that doesn't collect dirt is important - silicone spry seems to work best for the hitch and my exposed stabilizer screws. If any coupler reaches the limit of it's range, and the TW and trailer continue on opposing paths, something has to give. The cold rolled channels that make up NuCamp's frames can bend or twist when this happens. With the larger mass and greater tongue weight of a 400, a Jack-e-up is a great accessory as well. If a max coupler suits you - put one on - as the range of motion in NuCamp's coupler is quite small:

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/9352/lock-roll-hitch-coupler#latest

Personally, I find the lock-n-roll easier to deal with then the ball coupler that came with my trailer. If the max is as easy to hitch and unhitch - buy it

gspdx

@bergger Good info.  Pretty much what I was thinking.  No serious off-roading with the trailer.  Will be heading out into the boonies as soon as it warms up a bit.  On the other side of the Cascades the lows are supposed to be in the teens next week.  

Cherokee

Boondocking in solace!

jkjenn

Cherokee said:.

Wasn't the M416 was a Vietnam era Military Jeep trailer? Do you still have it? 

Yup. Most made right here, in western Pennsylvania.

I sold it when I bought my T@b. 😁



I stuck with the Pintle hitch but either the Max Coupler or the Lock and Roll would have been better choices.

I sold it to a guy outside of Akron back in 2014.

VictoriaP

@jkjenn Great shot, as always! What did it look like set up? I’m guessing that’s a rooftop tent?

jkjenn

VictoriaP said:

@jkjenn Great shot, as always! What did it look like set up? I’m guessing that’s a rooftop tent?

Yup! Here it is in Yellowstone. Yes, that's snow.

VictoriaP

@jkjenn Brrrrr.....! Makes me grateful for the Alde. But what a terrific setup, better than having to climb on top of the Jeep.

jkjenn

VictoriaP said:

@jkjenn Brrrrr.....! Makes me grateful for the Alde. But what a terrific setup, better than having to climb on top of the Jeep.

Climbing up on the rooftop wasn't so bad for sleeping, it was trying to get everything tucked in and zipped when I packed up that was the challenge.

Funny story about the rooftop setup: my first night in it was on the beach at Lake Erie.....during a windstorm....the whole Jeep shook all night. Although I felt plenty safe, it was loud!! I barely slept.

VictoriaP

jkjenn said:

VictoriaP said:

@jkjenn Brrrrr.....! Makes me grateful for the Alde. But what a terrific setup, better than having to climb on top of the Jeep.

Climbing up on the rooftop wasn't so bad for sleeping, it was trying to get everything tucked in and zipped when I packed up that was the challenge.

Funny story about the rooftop setup: my first night in it was on the beach at Lake Erie.....during a windstorm....the whole Jeep shook all night. Although I felt plenty safe, it was loud!! I barely slept.

I really love this shot. Just screams “adventure” to me!

My first night in the Tab was in a windstorm with 70 mph gusts. Stabilizers down and tail into the wind, that thing did not move. Good thing I sleep with earplugs though.

Cherokee

jkjenn said:

VictoriaP said:

@jkjenn Brrrrr.....! Makes me grateful for the Alde. But what a terrific setup, better than having to climb on top of the Jeep.

Climbing up on the rooftop wasn't so bad for sleeping, it was trying to get everything tucked in and zipped when I packed up that was the challenge.

Funny story about the rooftop setup: my first night in it was on the beach at Lake Erie.....during a windstorm....the whole Jeep shook all night. Although I felt plenty safe, it was loud!! I barely slept.

Cool shot! - My wife spent a lot of time crouching behind a jeep wheel cooking to avoid the wind. I could never talk her into a roof top tent - she gets motion sickness and the border collie doesn't like climbing ladders. So we stayed on the ground before we bought the T@B:

ddp

Does anyone have experience with security locks on the articulating hitches?

Cherokee

ddp said:

Does anyone have experience with security locks on the articulating hitches?

While EVERYONE has a 2" ball on the back of their Pick-up, very FEW people have an off-road hitch. I have a few links before a master link on my safety chains. I remove the rest so a person can't grab the chains an drive away. In addition, I lock one of my wheels. I've been all over the USA in the last 5 years - no theft