New owner of a 2020 [email protected] 400 BDL

MischiefBrewingMischiefBrewing Member Posts: 3
edited May 15 in Introductions
Hey all!
I've found so many answers on this forum so I decided to join.
Received delivery after a smooth online purchase process and have been accessorizing and testing it for about 2 weeks now waiting for camp sites here in Vermont to open up.
I'll start with some problems I'm having and unable to find answers online for while waiting on the dealer service to get back to me.
1. Water pump priming issue: I found 2 threads talking about people with this same problem but none had definitive "solved" answers in them.  When not hooked up to city water, the pump pulls water out of the CW tank but seems like it's drawing in as much air as it is water and sputters continuously and never reaches full pressure to shut off.
I've tried hooking to city water and clearing all air from the lines, but when unhooking and switching back to pump, it goes back to sputtering within seconds.  I've removed the draw line at the pump and blown into the tank and hear it bubbling, so the line reaches into the water fine.  There is no debris at all in the filter and no kinks in any of the lines.  Totally baffled and frustrated by this.
2. Front window screen doesn't fold itself back up to close all the way.  Haven't played with it much, but seems like the springs are a little weak.
3. Installed the Takonsha P3 brake controller on my 2017 toyota tacoma TRD sport.  Hooked up the [email protected] and went out on the empty road to set the power levels.  Hit max power (14) and still couldn't get the trailer to lock up.  Saw a thread somewhere that the trailer brakes need to be adjusted.  It's been too miserable out to crawl under it but hoping it's an easy adjustment, anyone done this?

That's it for problems, now here's a little of what I've found out that might help others doing searches...
1. For a 2017 Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport with 265/65/17 tires and no lift, the [email protected] 400 BDL sits near level on a hitch with no drop.  The 3" drop hitch I had left the wheel on the jack very close to the ground, which would be bad with the dirt roads I end up on to get to some of the white mountain camping sites.
2. Mirror extenders are worth every penny:  I have a pretty small driveway space for storage and the tacoma, being a pretty narrow mid-sized truck can't see around the [email protected] very well. 
3. Read the 3-star reviews on Amazon to understand how the product really is.  5-stars are nice but don't tell you much and are sometimes bought by companies and 1-star are downright depressing and likely 1-off manufacturing problems (unless there are a bazillion of them).  The 3-star reviews are the people who don't like something about it, but are likely still using it.  This is how I decided on the sewer line, fresh water hose, tea kettle, and all the other "additional costs" this trailer has brought.

Can't wait to get to a campsite!


  • dragonsdoflydragonsdofly Member Posts: 1,244
    @MischiefBrewing, although the owner of 320, plumbing is plumbing. The pump sputtering is indicative of air entering the lines somewhere. There is either a split line or loose fitting somewhere in the trailer's plumbing lines. Although a bad gasket at any of the faucets can cause this, it is extremely unlikely. I'd begin at the fresh water tank and check all seals and lines from the fresh tank to the water pump. Since water is thicker than air, it is sometimes hard to detect a leak because the water isn't dripping visibly, only air is taken in when the pump engages. Until of course, the leak gets worse and the leak becomes visible or detectable. Our resident experts will chime in soon. Good luck with this. -Denise
    2017 [email protected] sofitel([email protected])TV 2015 Silverado 2500hd(Behemoth). Wyandotte, Michigan.
    Draco dormiens numquam titilandus.
  • DougHDougH Member Posts: 607
    edited May 15
    @MischiefBrewing ; WELCOME!  Like @dragonsdofly I have a 320, but have frequently had difficultities priming the water pump.  I follow the forum suggestions doing everything you already tried (checking the filter, blowing air down through the intake tube in case of debris, checking the tightness of the connections to the pump).  I usually also try filling the toilet when pump is first on. That seems to help due to the proximity and lower height than the pump. Once primed (80% of the time), I can be fine for a couple weeks, or until the next time I drain the tanks. I've been told to consider replacing the water pump, but haven't bothered to yet.  Eventually (60-90s) I get enough pressure, even on the occasional days when it isn't enough to automatically turn off the pump.

    Adjusting the brakes is easy and I have the same brake controller.  You could try flipping the P3 manual brake lever when on gravel first to see if it locks up then... to at least know if the brakes are close to correct.  If not, jack up a wheel, use a flat head screwdriver (though you can buy a drum brake adjustment tool) to rotate the drum tightness screw by flipping it up on one side and down on the other (as I remember it) until it barely scrapes or slows the wheel as you turn it, then back off slightly.  Once done you'll rarely have to do it again.  I've only done it twice, once after the dealer repacked everything, but forgot to adjust the brakes. Another time when it was pulling to one side a little when braking.  There's a thread or two with full descriptions and even pictures.  Or at least that's the 320 process.

    UPDATE:  Forgot to mention I use a tire/toy inflator to push air through intake line to the pump.  And most important, I slowly fill the toilet for the first 20 seconds the pump is on when first pressurizing.   P.S. not an expert, but love my [email protected]
    2014 328d diesel wagon, 2016 [email protected] S Max, D/FW Texas

  • MuttonChopsMuttonChops Member Posts: 709
    @MischiefBrewingWelcome to the Family
    Water Pump Pressure:
    = 1 =   How long do you wait before giving up?
           My pump takes forever (5-10 minutes) to reach pressure, then need to run taps to
          bleed air, and pressurize again before it is 'normal'.

    = 2 =   My pump also gets stuck/confused and can't detect pressure.
           Have found a quick open/close of sink cold water tap will get the pump to stop.
           This problem most often happens after filling an empty fresh water tank.
    2018 [email protected] 320 Spitched axle, 3020HE
    TV: 2017 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
    Adventures:  23       Nights:  155 
  • Sharon_is_SAMSharon_is_SAM Moderator Posts: 5,197
    @MischiefBrewing, will the pump suck if you remove the intake tube and try to draw water from a bucket?  If it does, the pump is good and you may either have a crack in the plastic filter housing or you may have a fresh water outlet obstruction.
    Sharon / 2017 [email protected] CSS / 2015 Toyota Sienna Minivan / Westlake, Ohio
  • MischiefBrewingMischiefBrewing Member Posts: 3
     Found it! Cracked filter housing. 
  • Sharon_is_SAMSharon_is_SAM Moderator Posts: 5,197
     Please let us know how you repair this.  It would be a good part to keep on hand.
    Sharon / 2017 [email protected] CSS / 2015 Toyota Sienna Minivan / Westlake, Ohio
  • Denny16Denny16 Member Posts: 470
    good job, that was a hard one to spot.
    2018 TaB400, Jeep Gladiator truck, Northern California Coast
  • MischiefBrewingMischiefBrewing Member Posts: 3
    edited May 21
    Since the dealer refuses to return my calls and I'm going boondock camping this weekend, I decided to pull a screen from my basement sink faucet and connect the CW tank hose directly to the pump without the pre-filter with the screen at the connection.  System works perfectly and it gives me time to harass the dealer into replacing the part.  I was thinking of trying to JB weld the crack but it goes all the way through the threads so it isn't likely to work.  Super glue isn't water proof so also not an option...
  • falcon1970falcon1970 Member Posts: 508
    Except for the part of the crack across the threads, you might try smearing several overlapping layers of "Amazing Goop" across the crack on the outside of the fitting.  Goop is available at Lowe's, Home Depot, and most hardware stores.  It may be labelled as "plumbers" Goop or some other trade but it is all the same stuff.  Smear it well across the crack and use several layers.  You can use a hair dryer to "skim over" the surface and then apply another layer.

  • crohrbachercrohrbacher Member Posts: 11
    You can get another filter on Amazon:

    Charles / 2020 [email protected] 400BDL / 2019 Ford Ranger / Cibolo, TX
  • ChrisFixChrisFix Member Posts: 87
    That looks like a good spare part to order!
    After two years of looking and considering...finally the proud owner of a 2021 [email protected] 400 Boondock!
    2020 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E with Redarc Trailer Brake Controller
  • BaylissBayliss Member Posts: 515
    @MischiefBrewing said "The 3" drop hitch I had left the wheel on the jack very close to the ground, which would be bad with the dirt roads I end up on to get to some of the white mountain camping sites."

    If I am understanding the above statement correctly, it sounds like you are towing while the wheel on the jack stand tube is still attached.  You should remove that wheel while towing.  That will eliminate it possibly scraping the ground, plus avoid  losing the wheel while towing.
    2019 [email protected] 320 S Boondock Lite; Alde Compact 3020 Boiler; 2007 Toyota Tundra TRD (5.7L V8)
    Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)

  • Denny16Denny16 Member Posts: 470
    You  could try contacting nuCmp Warranty dept directly, advise them the dealer is not responding and they might arrange to get the part sent directly to you.  Send them the photo also.
    2018 TaB400, Jeep Gladiator truck, Northern California Coast
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