I've read many of the posts here about maintaining the Alde system in my Tab 320. The manual that came with my Tab states the following:
"
BLEEDING THE SYSTEMDepending on how the pipes have been fitted, air pockets
may form when the heating system is filled with glycol
fluid. A sign that there is air trapped in the heating system
is that the heat released into the pipes only extends
2-3 feet or so from the boiler, even though the circulation
pump is operating.
In newly filled heating systems, small air bubbles can
form in the expansion tank, creating a gurgling sound. If
the circulation pump is stopped for a few seconds, the
bubbles will usually disappear; however, if the problem
persists, bleed the heating system to remedy the problem.
Automatic BleedingAll boilers sold in North America come with an automatic
air vent (see Figure 8), which will bleed the heating system
automatically. If you do not have an automatic air
vent, a bleeder screw is fitted to the outgoing pipe for
manual bleeding."
My question is why would I still hear the gurgling sound described above, if my Alde has automatic bleeding? There is no bleeder screw, so I cannot bleed it manually.
Comments
Thanks, Jerry
2019 Honda Pilot AWD and 2018 T@B 320-CS hanging out on the left edge of Lake Erie.
POST BY @Michigan_Mike:
"Here is some information and recommendations from Austin Jones at the nuCamp repair shop.... In a nutshell Austin recommends that owners have this task done professionally and via a certified repair person to eliminate damaging your unit and protecting your investment. Don’t shoot the messenger. 😀👍🏻
Alde & myself recommend using the proprietary pump to pump the fluid out of the system while pumping new in much like a transmission flush. This alleviates the need for a time extensive bleeding prosses and a lot of frustration. If you do not have a pump it is almost impossible to get all of the old fluid out of the system by just draining it out of the low point drain through the floor leaving sediment & tired old fluid in the system. Once you are refilling the system it may help to turn the pump speed up to max for a bit to help push the air bubbles out quicker. The glycol can also be tested via PH paper to see the quality of the glycol as well if you are on the fence about changing it. Sometimes the glycol can last several years if it is not used much.
The biggest thing to watch is if you are bleeding the system, is to unplug the 110 plug, so that in the event of the system calling for heat on shore power it will not burn up the heating elements if there is not adequate fluid in the Alde.
Final thoughts. If you are questioning your capability, pay to have this service done by a professional. If you are doing the change without a pump, drain it the best you can, unplug the 110 line to the Alde to avoid the system kicking on & cooking the heating elements. Only use Century transfer glycol or Alde’s brand of glycol.
Thanks,
Austin Jones"
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
Thanks, Jerry
2019 Honda Pilot AWD and 2018 T@B 320-CS hanging out on the left edge of Lake Erie.
WOOPS! There was more to that info from Austin.......I missed it when cutting and pasting. Please see my earlier post for the full info provided by Austin at nuCamp (last two paragraphs of his message, which I have added to my earlier post.) Sorry about that. (Greg)
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
Thanks, Jerry
2019 Honda Pilot AWD and 2018 T@B 320-CS hanging out on the left edge of Lake Erie.
cheers