Boondocking/"Moochdocking" electrical hookup?

Ponzi

If you want to use your T@B at home on your own property as, say, a guest bedroom, how do you connect up electricity?

I don't think any standard home wiring has plugs for 30-amp cords, so how do you run power from a standard 120-volt socket into a connection on the trailer?

Thanks in advance.

rh5555

I use one of these, and then a heavy duty extension cord to a 20A socket

20A is generally more than enough to power everything in your trailer (unless you're using a hair dryer while running the coffee maker and the A/C is running...)  If you draw more than 20A, you will know, because your circuit breaker will trip in the house.

CrabTab

Here is an example of a 15 Amp to 30 AMP  adaptor to get...

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Road-Home-12-In-RV-Electrical-Adapter-Fits-15-Amp-Male-to-30-Amp-Female-with-Pull-Out-Handles-Type-12-3-SJTW-30-Amp-125-V-to-4-Degrees-Fahrenheit-Cold-Weather-Jacket-Black-with-Yellow-Handles/1002699848?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-rpe-_-google-_-lia-_-208-_-tubulardrainage-_-1002699848-_-0&store_code=86&placeholder=null&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIodal6Iuq6gIVmY7ICh3MCQffEAQYASABEgJwqfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Others will undoubtedly chime in with more details/options...

Edit: Just remembered, an electric clothes dryer is usually a 30 AMP device

VictoriaP

An simple plug adapter like this was included by my dealer at the time of sale. Worth looking through anything you received for something similar. You can pick up adapters at any RV store, or online.

https://smile.amazon.com/Conntek-14101-TT-30R-Plug-Adapter/dp/B001TO4WCS/

jameskuzman

We keep our 400 plugged into a 15 amp garage outlet using a "dog bone" (30A to 15A) connector 24/7 when we're not camping, and I use it as my "getaway room" for reading, relaxing and napping year 'round. 

As for determining what you can run on 15A, you'll need a little math and have a little information about how much power various things draw. 

The formula is pretty easy: We need to solve for current here, and current is equal to wattage divided by voltage. 

To find out what your current capacity is, look at the breaker that controls the outlet you want to plug into. It will likely be either be 15A or 20A.

We know the voltage is 120 volts. 

Determining the wattage of the various devices will take a little homework, but some of the figures are available on manufacturer's spec sheets. Here's the data on the big power hogs.

Dometic lists the 10,500 BTU CoolCat used in the T@B 400 as using 1,330 watts when cooling, 1,048 when used as a heat pump.

The 5,000 BTU units in most of the 320's will use about half that, so around 650 watts. 

**Note that this is operating current, and there will be a momentary spike in current draw when the compressor first starts up; normally this will not trip a breaker, but if it does, don't continue to try and use it.**

The Alde on the 1kW setting uses 900 watts; on the 2kW setting it uses 1,800 watts. 

The High Point microwave in the 400 uses 1,350 watts. 

So let's plug in some numbers assuming you have a 15A circuit in the garage like I do. 

CoolCat: 1,330 watts divided by 120 volts = 11.08 amps - good to go on a 15A circuit.

Window-style A/C: 650 watts divided by 120 volts = 5.41 amps - also good on a 15A circuit.

Alde heat on 1kW setting: 900 watts divided by 120 volts = 7.5 amps, with plenty of room left over for the circulating pump (minimal draw). 

Alde heat on 2kW setting: 1800 watts divided by 120 volts = 15 amps - so no go here; it's at the maximum before you even factor in the circulating pump or any other potential draws. 

Microwave: 1,350 watts divided by 120 volts = 11.25 amps - so that'll work, but obviously not with the Alde or either style A/C on.

One thing I haven't factored in here is other devices that might be drawing current at the same time. Most devices other than the ones listed above are very low draw, but having multiple things on adds up, and current is an additive calcluation.

The lighting is LED, so minimal draw there. There's some draw all the time from the radio and TV and from the CO detector, but again, minmal. The Fantastic Fan draws around 2A at high speed. Refrigerators will vary from model to model. 

A couple of other safety-related things: Put your hand on the adapter and the outlet into which it is plugged once you've run something big like the A/C for a few minutes. If it feels hot, even if the braker didn't trip, DISCONNECT IT IMMEDIATELY. If the breaker keeps tripping, DISCONNECT AND STOP USING THAT OUTLET until you can get an electrician in to asses the situation. Safety over convenience, always!

Hope this helps some.

Jim

Denny16

I had an electrician hook up a 30amp RV type outlet on the side of my garage, to plug the TaB 400 into.  This setup,works great.
cheers.

Michigan_Mike

Go to Walmart and buy the 30 amp to 20 amp plug adapter (about $7.00) in the RV supply aisle.  Don’t forget your mask!  😀👍🏻

ChrisFix

My T@B 400 is plugged into an existing 20A outlet in my garage (using a dogbone adapter) and it works perfectly. Even a 15A (which is the minimum circuit you'll have in your house) will work perfectly to keep the battery and refrigerator running full time if you want, and to run the air conditioner as needed. For my use case, I can not see any need to install a dedicated 30A circuit for parking my camper at home.

Tampakayaker

I had my son, an electrician, install a 30 Amp box/outlet next to my existing breaker box on the outside of the house (no garage). I didn't have a nearby 15/20A outlet outside that would've been safe to run the T@B cord to.  I think the parts including a new breaker came to about $30-40. Parts are available at HD or Lowes. If you are handy you can install it yourself without an electrician.

Sharon_is_SAM

@jameskuzman - thank you for that info.  I copied it for my folder.  The question always comes up and I can never remember what combination of appliances is safe to run.  

ScottG

I agree that a 30A receptacle is not really necessary under most circumstances. However, if you do install one (or hire someone to do it) be attentive to the details. Though they may look similar, not all big outlets are the same. A 120V/30A RV receptacle has a very specific configuration both on its face and in how it is wired. It is not the same as a 120V/30A "standard" receptacle, or a 120/240V/30A receptacle typically installed for an electric dryer.

There have been reports in the past of incorrect receptacles being installed, even by electricians!

jameskuzman

ScottG said:

I agree that a 30A receptacle is not really necessary under most circumstances. However, if you do install one (or hire someone to do it) be attentive to the details. Though they may look similar, not all big outlets are the same. A 125V/30A RV receptacle has a very specific configuration both on its face and in how it is wired. It is not the same as a 125V/30A "standard" receptacle, or a 125/250V/30A receptacle typically installed for an electric dryer.

There have been reports in the past of incorrect receptacles being installed, even by electricians!

Too true. Lots of horror stories on various RV forums when someone just asked for a "30A plug" either without being very specific about its intended use, or when an electrician, out of habit, puts in a 240/250V plug because they are so much more common.

An RV converter gets very unhappy very quickly when it's fed with 240V, and it doesn't take long for wiring to start melting.