Surge protector

pak

I always use one and plug it in first to see if things are correct. One place we stopped the protector indicated an open neutral. Worth every cent!

N7SHG_Ham

Coming up on two years for mine, but way it worked was I bought the EMS and had it drop shipped to NuCamp. It was installed in the service department after my unit came off the line and I paid NuCamp directly for the additional labor.

No idea if it still works that way.

ReenieG

Would someone share a link to an internal surge protector please?

TIA

Dutch061

https://www.amazon.com/PROGRESSIVE-INDUSTRIES-HW30C-Hardwired-Electrical/dp/B002UC6RSA/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=EMS-HW30C&qid=1606073181&sr=8-2

This is what I ordered to install when my camper comes back from service.

Brad

ReenieG

@Dutch061 thank you!

This was the same one I pulled up from reading this comment thread, but good to know it's what you used and apparently works! Does it come with installation instructions? I'm going to attempt to tackle this myself. I suppose there are some YouTube vids that will help.

PNWtabber

I learn something from this group every day.  

rh5555

I'm going to repeat this because it could avert a semi-disaster:  The display that comes with the progressive industries protector

has a very bright red LED display which you cannot dim.  It also changes the information it displays about every second and is very distracting.  I, fortunately, mounted mine inside the wardrobe where it cannot be seen at night.  The protector itself is an excellent bit of kit, and I'm very happy with it.  Just think a bit about where to mount the display!

PNWtabber

Now, my head is spinning.  How does one hardwire an EMS??  Is this something that should be done in an RV shop? 

Verna

@PNWtabber, if you search for Progressive Industries EMS, or EMS, I remember a post about how it was installed in a 2015 T@B S Max. The same method was used by Austin to install the one in my new 320. 

rh5555

Wiring up an EMS is pretty straightforward.  The toughest bit is trying to figure out where to locate it.  I put mine under the wardrobe, which got it out of the way, but was pretty awkward to do the wiring.  The steps are:

1. Undo the screws that hold in the 30Amp receptacle on the side of your TAB
2. Pull it out enough to get to the screws on the back, which you undo.
3. Route the power lead you just disconnected and attach to the output terminals of the EMS threading the current sensor onto the black wire
   
4. Connect new wires to the 30 Amp receptacle.  These wires need to be 10 AWG.  You could use Romex or solid copper individual wires for this, but I found stranded wires to be easier to manage.  I used about 5 feet of green, black and white and then used spiral wrap to keep them all neat and tidy
   
5. Feed these wires back into the TAB and re-attach the 30 Amp receptacle to the side of the TAB
   
6. Route these wires to the EMS and connect to the input terminals
7. Mount the EMS, connect and mount the display somewhere not too visible (because it is bright and distracting)

PNWtabber

I won't lie, y'all got me scared about my upcoming trip to the Washington coast.  I will have an electrical hookup at a state park and I have no surge suppressor/EMS and don't know that I will have time to acquire one before I go.  

Denny16

You can buy an external one that connects to thenRV Park hookup, and you plug the TaB cable into it.
cheers

Dutch061

I have to be honest, I have never used one in any of the 4 RV's I have owned. However, since it appears our 2020 400 BDL will be the camper we use until our "season of life camping" is over; I decided to buy a hard wired and install it rather than having more stuff to deal with when camping. It will simply always be there.

If desired, you can always buy a tester for the 15 Amp Outlet and use a 15 Amp Adapter on the end of the cord. The tester would allow you to check the outlet for wiring or ground problems before you plugged in. 

Something like this

https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Receptacle-Outlet-Ground-Tester/dp/B0012DHVQ0/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=15+amp+outlet+tester&qid=1606097348&sr=8-12

Brad

PixandMsBee

Verna said:

Last summer, the local power company had a component become defective in the power substation, and low power was being delivered to the RV park I was staying at. I thought my CoolCat was short-cycling and that it was unable to handle the high 90’s temps we were having. 

Nope, the Progressive Industries EMS installed when I purchased my 400 was denying the voltage to pass through to my 400. It actually saved the CoolCat and other components that could have been damaged or destroyed by the low voltage. I was money ahead by purchasing the EMS because a new CoolCat would certainly have cost more. 

A thought to help with your decision....you can’t see electricity, whether high, low or within limits, but it can damage in less than a blink of an eye, or it can just continue powering your components.

PixandMsBee

Does your make a humming noise? I am concerned about hearing the noise in the T@B.

PixandMsBee

rh5555 said:

I'm going to repeat this because it could avert a semi-disaster:  The display that comes with the progressive industries protector

has a very bright red LED display which you cannot dim.  It also changes the information it displays about every second and is very distracting.  I, fortunately, mounted mine inside the wardrobe where it cannot be seen at night.  The protector itself is an excellent bit of kit, and I'm very happy with it.  Just think a bit about where to mount the display!

Does the unit itself make a humming noise? I am a very light sleeper and this concerns me.

Denny16

You can get the external model, which mounts to the power pedestal outside of the TaB, no noise no lights inside the TaB.  This is what we use, and it is plug and play type setup.  We lock it to the pedestal to prevent it inadvertently walking away.
 Cheers 

PixandMsBee

Denny16 said:

You can get the external model, which mounts to the power pedestal outside of the TaB, no noise no lights inside the TaB.  This is what we use, and it is plug and play type setup.  We lock it to the pedestal to prevent it inadvertently walking away.
 Cheers 

this one?     Portable RV Surge Protector Portable EMS-PT30X RV Surge Protector : Amazon.ca: Automotive

PixandMsBee

This one?      

Portable RV Surge Protector Portable EMS-PT30X RV Surge Protector : Amazon.ca: Automotive

Sharon_is_SAM

Yes.

Dutch061

The Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C has a very slight hum, I too was concerned about the noise. But what I found is that I can't hear it anyway, mine is mounted underneath my closet to the floor.



I put the display outside access hatch on the street side. This way I can easily flip the bypass switch if I am using my genny.



Brad

Denny16

PixandMsBee said:

Denny16 said:

You can get the external model, which mounts to the power pedestal outside of the TaB, no noise no lights inside the TaB.  This is what we use, and it is plug and play type setup.  We lock it to the pedestal to prevent it inadvertently walking away.
 Cheers 

this one?     Portable RV Surge Protector Portable EMS-PT30X RV Surge Protector : Amazon.ca: Automotive

Yes same type, but a different brand, ours is a Progressive Indst. brand.

Denny16

Brad, you do know that if your water pump or water lines in there leaked, it might get the Surge unit wet?  I would have mounted it on the front blank panel.  

Also from your photo (see below) the big hole the water tank fill tube goes through is open to the outside of the trailer.  What you see in the hole is the top of the water tank, which is a odd 1/2” to 1-inch be,ow the trailer floor, which is big enough for a mouse to get in!  We had a lot of dust get in here from driving on unpaved fire roads.  You might want to consider sealing this up.

Move Surge Protecter to area in red box.  The red circle is the hole through the floor to the water tank top.
Cheers

Slackers

There's also a Progressive Industry built-in version with an LCD internal display.  That's what we have.  If something goes wrong with the power I can lift up the bench and look at the display.
@Dutch061 as an alternative you could raise the surge protector with a floor mounted block of wood if the 30 amp line is too short for the suggested location.

Maxcamp

Per email clarification, Progressive Industries is using a newer sensor magnet* that is bi-directional and does not need specific orientation, contrary to printed and online directions that call for orienting "green marking/arrow" to one side.  My device has no markings at all.  PI eventually emailed:

"The new sensors that have “Tiger” printed on the label do not have arrows because they are not directionally sensitive. These sensor/s can face either direction and read current accurately." 

*[The sensor magnet is D shaped and you run the black output wire through it.]

You can fish the readout wires through the bath wall using a metal fishtape having no end hook.  Lots of stuff for a hook to hang up on.

The HW-30C has a Normally Open contactor between power IN and power OUT.  So no power to your rig unless it 'okays' the incoming power condition, which takes a good 15-30 seconds after plugging in.  It then closes the contact with a clunk and energizes your rig - you can watch it in action with the cover off.
Yes it hums. 

I watched it de-energize and re-energize the rig during several bouts of Low Power (<104v) over several hours working on the camper interior.  My home meters at 118v, the fluctuations of unknown origin are startling.  The HW30C rejects generator power (122v!) unless a grounding plug is used on generator to connect return to ground.

A worthy investment.

Dutch061

I appreciate the feedback and concern about water, but I would submit to you that it would have to get at least 1" deep to get inside the "box" of the surge protector. The top fits very tightly and reaches the outside edge of the "box", so the only way water will get in is if the water were to get deep enough to enter the pass throughs for the wiring. Which means it would have to be deeper than the cold-water line that is below the 10-gauge going out on the right side to the PDC in the camper. 

@Denny16, I understand about the "opening" for the fill hose and vent. We don't have mice problems where I live but we have tree rat problems (aka squirrels). However, I agree that I should seal this up or at least put some steel wool in it to keep things with teeth out.

Brad

Denny16

I agree about flooding from a leak would not be likely, espwithnthe drain hole above the water tank. I was more concerned with water spraying down from a leak at the pump or in the Pex connectors above the box.  But hey, I am sometimes overly cautious… 
cheers

Dutch061

@Denny16, No worries! I understand being "overly cautious" as I am told that I am too conservative all the time! Although it makes for some very interesting conversations with people.

Brad

Denny16

I bet it does Brad, same here.  Have a grand weekend, and stay safe.
 Cheers 

Roamy400

I have installed both a Hughes autoformer and power watchdog-epo in our T@B400 Solo. Had room to put them both in under the lift up seat/bed section on the drivers rear side near the Alde system. In my eyes, cheap protection for all of the expensive electronics inside.