2021 320S Boondock - System Details?

GC3

My unit still in production. Can someone point me to a reference that has the technical details of the battery, electrical and solar system, to include capability, make and model of the components?  Consulting with a local technician on the right mods for my needs, so hoping to find something  useful to communicate the starting point.

Verna

GC3, we really don’t have any technical info on the 2021 320 models. They are still so new and the owners haven’t given us the info. Please contact your dealer for any info they might have. 

When you get the info, it sure would be nice to share it with us so we can build up out knowledge. 

We do know there is a new water system, the same Air8 A/C unit as last year, the same Alde as last year and that’s about it. There’s a new AC/DC Isotherm fridge, a new stove with igniter, new faucet in the kitchen sink and the new cassette toilet with sink. 

You can search on 2021 to see what info you can find, also.    

Sharon_is_SAM

The battery is provided by your dealer.  

VictoriaP

And the exact battery installed on a 320 varies based on what your dealer has in stock. This can be negotiated, I had mine upgraded from group 24 wet cell to a group 27 AGM before it left the dealer’s lot.

GC3

Buying from a local CO dealer without a great reputation for service, etc. So am not confident that's my best option for info or upgrading. But I'm going to ask again. 

ontheroad

@GC3...if you're on FB...@jkjenn..has been putting out some amazing videos..FB T@B Camping Trailers...or Google Jenn Grover on you tube videos...

1991sb

I asked about the solar “ package” listed on the window sticker on our new 2021 T@B 320 S and was provided these from Nucamp tech support. Hope they help

MarkAl

Be aware the "Sunflare Solar.pdf is out of date for the 2021 320s. I was advised by nuCamp that the new panel is 105 Watts.

GC3

Dealership says standard battery in my package is single 12v Interstate marine lead acid. Offered $600 upgrade to two 6v "extreme duty" version of the same thing. I'm thinking not a very good deal....

jkjenn

GC3 said:

Dealership says standard battery in my package is single 12v Interstate marine lead acid. Offered $600 upgrade to two 6v "extreme duty" version of the same thing. I'm thinking not a very good deal....

No, you can upgrade to 2, top of the line AGM golf cart batteries for that.

Alex_Outdoors

Since we're discussing batteries ... for the new TAB we are buying, I have on hand a "Vmaxtanks VMAXSLR125 AGM 12V 125Ah SLA Rechargeable Deep Cycle Battery" I bought to run AC lights through an inverter during an art show, and have been refreshing approx monthly. Have a box for it. May need it for that purpose again - but not any time soon :-( Debating whether to get the basic install from the dealer and start with that and switch to this later, or just use this? The "you'll fry your first battery while you learn" comment in the other thread has me thinking to just take the dealer stock one to start, but would appreciate suggestions. 

Thanks - Alex

pthomas745

I've been lucky not to kill my first trailer battery.  It is almost 4 years old now. ( I destroyed several while tent camping with my first too small solar panels.)    I fumbled around a bit at first, but with the help on this Forum I learned to monitor my battery.  I learned what an amp hour was, how many I had to use in my battery and how many amp hours my trailer might use.  I used the simple plug in monitors and watched my voltage levels and had a copy of the "State Of Charge" chart taped to the Tab walls, taped another to the top of the battery box.  This strategy worked for the whole first year.  One day the plug in meter fell into the sink and fried.  I went out and bought a 20 dollar multimeter, and sat at the campsite and learned how to use it.  Then I learned what a 'rested" battery was, and with the multimeter I realized my power use and battery status were much better than I thought. I get more from my simple battery than I ever imagined.

Tonight on Facebook there are multiple owners with failed solar installs and "no power from the batteries" and because they don't have a simple multimeter or a plug in battery meter they are completely lost to find a solution or sort out answers.   Not their fault, really. This is not a skill I ever thought I would have or even needed.   But anyone who wants to "boondock", who hasn't sorted out how to monitor a battery might have problems.

Verna

Not all of us fried our first batteries. My first battery on my T@B S Max was traded in for one of my two 6V golf cart batteries six months after I got the T@B. My two 6V AGM batteries in my T@B 400 are still chugging along very strong. 

I read a lot and I knew what not to do. 

Sharon_is_SAM

I wonder if the nuCamp Repair dept would fit two 6 volts on a new trailer coming off the line. Never hurts to ask.

Sean_Deb

I don't believe they can ship on a delivery truck with "live" batteries on board.

Sharon_is_SAM

Well they ship the 400s with a battery in place. They could simply create the space required for 2 batteries and let the dealer place the batteries, too.

Denny16

The front gas/battery tub is shipped inside the TaB, but the 6VDC AGM batteries nuCamp uses for the taB 400 may be too big for the 320 battery area?

Cheers

Sharon_is_SAM

So, we had our tub customized to fit a 150 amp AGM battery.  The factory welded a new battery and propane frame as well as a custom battery box.  The battery was shipped to our dealer and they assembled the tub components.  I think you can still have this done after the production line.  And you are right, they don’t ship the batteries in the tub - my bad.

Denny16

No worries, and you have a great suggestion about after-build add on in the repair shop.
cheers

jkjenn

Denny16 said:

The front gas/battery tub is shipped inside the TaB, but the 6VDC AGM batteries nuCamp uses for the taB 400 may be too big for the 320 battery area?

Cheers

Nope! Plenty of room.

ontheroad

@jkjenn, @Denny16... especially with the new and improved 2021 front tub!

GC3

Here's the response from Creed at Nucamp Customer Service:

"We don’t have any schematics available at this time. but I will try to list some of the electrical components.

 Solar Controller – Victron Smart Solar Controller 75/10 https://www.victronenergy.com/solar-charge-controllers/smartsolar-mppt-75-10-75-15-100-15-100-20

 Converter – WFCO 8700 series https://wfcoelectronics.com/product/wf-8735-35-amp/

 Solar Panel – 105Watt Sunflare Flexible solar panel

 That’s really all I can think of that you’ll need when – if there other electrical components that you need info on please let me know "

ontheroad

@GC3...at the bottom of the nuCamprv.com web site you can download the manuals ahead of your trailer arrival...also the winterizing steps are there too..I found the more I learned before purchasing/ picking up the less frustrating it was...oh and yes driveway camp too... it's worth it!

mrdeepfryguy

@gc3. Here are some pics / specs on the Air8 A/C unit

Aray

Received an email from Raphael at T@B today saying Air8 is now 6500 BTUs.

DougH

I use an LG window unit in my 320.  Their 6000BTU models list at ~500W (https://www.lg.com/us/air-conditioners/lg-LW6019ER-window-air-conditioner 480W)(https://www.lg.com/us/air-conditioners/lg-LW6017R-window-air-conditioner 520W).  Makes it more feasible to run off solar and batteries for a few hours.

So why is the Air8 almost twice the power requirement?

jkjenn

DougH said:

I use an LG window unit in my 320.  Their 6000BTU models list at ~500W (https://www.lg.com/us/air-conditioners/lg-LW6019ER-window-air-conditioner 480W)(https://www.lg.com/us/air-conditioners/lg-LW6017R-window-air-conditioner 520W).  Makes it more feasible to run off solar and batteries for a few hours.

So why is the Air8 almost twice the power requirement?

It's less than 11 amps. Still less power than the Norcold three way on DC. 😁

It does a lot better job. The window units never pulled out that much moisture and the Air8 does a great job dehumidifying. Also, it would take more power to blow air through the ducts.

DougH

@jkjenn True that.  My new ICECO GO20 12V fridge uses up to 50W when cooling down in combination fridge / freezer mode, but uses half that when in average fridge mode.  And I read with sadness about all the woes folks have cooling down the Norcolds, so ran another test a couple days ago, now that I've had the ICECO over many more miles of bumpy roads. Starting in the 80s in the morning for fridge temperature, it was at freezing in under five minutes.  I wish absorption fridges would just depart the RV industry, or at least be gone by the time I try to buy my next camper.

Some of the window A/C units have a dry mode, but I've never been able to find any specs on how many gallons a day they can take out of the air.  The southern coast states would almost be livable in summer if HVACs could just keep the humidity at 45%.  We just sprung for a brand new SEER 17 two stage variable speed heat pump for the stix-n-brix (old unit croaked).  When it's above 100F, we're lucky to keep the internal humidity at 65%.  Yuck.  Our installer said the unit could only pull out 6-8 gallons a day for an average size house.  Sounds like, for its size, the Air8 dehumidifies much better.