Winter Storage Ventilation

PNWtabber

I have seen in multiple places, including an email from Pahaque, that ventilation of the trailer is critical to controlling moisture.  Even the instructions for the little Caframo electric heater/dehumidifier I just purchased mentions ventilation.  I am near Seattle, so moisture management is something I am taking to heart, especially in winter.  Question is, how do you ventilate a trailer in winter when it is wearing its cover?  Should I slightly open a window or the ceiling vent under the cover????  Thanks all.

Denny16

I would do both, to create cross ventilation.  I also plan to run a small fan to help circulate air in the TaB 400.
cheers

PNWtabber

The Caframo Stor-Dry has a low wattage heater and a fan. From the manufacturer:  "The Stor-Dry low wattage warm air circulator is the “must have” product for the winterization season. The model 9406 Stor-Dry combats mold, mildew and musty odors in any boat or RV that is closed up or winterized. This dual action air dryer uses a low wattage heating element and internal fan to both heat and circulate the air. The heat and circulation prevents stale air pockets which in turn prevents mold or mildew from forming."

https://www.caframobrands.com/9406caabx.html

Denny16

Nice find, it should work to control moisture and et all,
cheers

PNWtabber

@Denny16 -- someone in the facebook group recommended it.  I also have a dri-z-air unit in the trailer (courtesy of the previous owners).

I am a little concerned if I open the vent under the cover, that I will forget it is open when I take the cover off and somehow damage the vent cover.  I may have to post a sign for myself. 

DanManz

Ours went into unheated indoor winter storage at the local fairgrounds this past week.  I cracked the main roof vent and the galley window just as I did last year.  No evidence of any mold or mildew.  I also left the refrigerator and freezer propped open with an open box of baking soda inside.  

PNWtabber

@DanManz -- mine is outdoors but under a Pahaque cover -- at the moment, anyway.

Denny16

Our TaB400 is tucked up between two outbuildings to protect for winter winds, otherwise uncovered and exposed to rain.  We leave the roof vent cracked and Alde set to 50F to keep moisture down.  But this year, I think I will just run a fan, or get the Stor-Dry unit.  Need to cut down our electrical use this winter, until I can add some more solar panels to the ones we got installed this year.  But in winter, we are only getting 50% capacity out of the panels.
cheers

Slackers

Last winter our 320 was stored outdoor under a fabric cover.  All windows were left in the vent position and the roof vent "cracked" open.  The @DanManz tip regarding venting the refrigerator sounds good too.

Denny16

Yes, I leave the washroom, wardrobe locker and fridge doors open slightly to allow air movement in those spaces, as well.
cheers

ScottG

I guess I'm clearly in the minority here, but I button my T@B up tight when it sits under its winter cover. When it's below freezing and I'm not in there there is not much moisture being generated. I haven't noticed any condensation in five winters, and frankly I'm more worried about little critters squeezing through those gaps and taking up residence than I am about a little potential moisture.

Of course, YMMV, particularly if you live in warmer, wetter (i.e., not frozen) climate.

Tampakayaker

We had our 320 under a cover from late winter to a couple of weeks ago here in sunny/rainy/humid FL.

We had the standard roof vent so to keep rain out that stayed closed.

I opened all 3 windows to the first security latch/barely opened position and pulled the screens down to keep "visitors" out.

Put a dollar tree generic damp rid in a plastic tub on the floor.

Opened the fridge door and put the latch pin back in so the door stayed open.

I checked on it every couple of weeks, especially after a heavy blowing rain to make sure rain didn't get up thru the open windows.

Changed out the damp rid once.

PNWtabber

@Tampakayaker wow, I've only had the trailer since September and have already changed the dri-z-air crystals twice!

MarkAl

As this is our first winter I also am looking for the least cost but low mildew solution. Seems @Denny16 has the easiest - just run the Alde at low temp but this involves the expensive (I think) Alde running all winter (at a low setting). I'd think the Light bulb / fan would be cheaper but is it as effective? I used the dessicant in our airplane and it was messy & required replenishment we much preferred a low wattage heater (the plane was used maybe every other week). So in the wet PNW winter other recommendations? 

Horigan

We've had two T@bs for five years in the Seattle area with just a cover and two windows cracked during winter storage.  We've used no desiccant or fans and we haven't had any issues with mildew or mold smell.  Every time we've checked on it it seems to be well ventilated. 

PNWtabber

Good to know, @Horigan.  Guess I need to go crack a window or two.

MarkAl

Great, this is a good data point to go from.

bergger

ScottG said:

I guess I'm clearly in the minority here, but I button my T@B up tight when it sits under its winter cover. When it's below freezing and I'm not in there there is not much moisture being generated. I haven't noticed any condensation in five winters, and frankly I'm more worried about little critters squeezing through those gaps and taking up residence than I am about a little potential moisture.

Of course, YMMV, particularly if you live in warmer, wetter (i.e., not frozen) climate.

I'm with you.  I also button it ours up tight but I do live in Colorado where we sometimes forget what humidity and moisture are!  Bone dry here and we mostly worry about things drying out too much.  

Simbionic

I live in NE Florida (mold capital of the world) where it’s hot and humid. I store my Tab400 next to my house and have access to an outlet. Am I best of with a dehumidifier or simply keeping the unit ventilated? Seems a dehumidifier is best??

Simbionic

I also see using the camper at least 3-5 days/month all year long. 

Michigan_Mike

Simbionic said:

I live in NE Florida (mold capital of the world) where it’s hot and humid. I store my Tab400 next to my house and have access to an outlet. Am I best of with a dehumidifier or simply keeping the unit ventilated? Seems a dehumidifier is best??

I would crack the vent a bit to allow the unit to breath and adjust to outdoor temperature changes.  One other thing I’d recommend for those who leave trailers uncovered in areas of high wind, make sure that the vent handle is somehow held or secured in place.  I stored a trailer in Florida one year and the constant buffeting of wind against the roof vent cover actually forced the vent to the fully opened position over time via the wind and vibration created.  The handle moved ever so slightly over time and the vent was opened up to the maximum height.  Luckily I didn’t get any rain in the trailer.  

Tampakayaker

Simbionic said:

I live in NE Florida (mold capital of the world) where it’s hot and humid. I store my Tab400 next to my house and have access to an outlet. Am I best of with a dehumidifier or simply keeping the unit ventilated? Seems a dehumidifier is best??

See my earlier post on this thread.  We live in Tampa

PNWtabber

I was puttering around in my T@B today and discovered what appears to be condensation in the cabinet below the sink.  The people I bought from in September said it had been winterized, so there wouldn't be any source of water (i.e., the moisture shouldn't be from a water leak).  I took everything out of the cabinet and left the door open.  The trailer is under a Pahaque cover and I have a Caframo "stor-dry" unit running to circulate air (see youtube link).  Is it normal to get condensation under the sink?  The pipes are particularly wet.

https://youtu.be/ipwet25T7Q8

VictoriaP

Condensation in the cabinets isn’t uncommon. All of them should be open for air circulation.

Edit to add: also note that any time you snugly cover something, you’re restricting the airflow inside it, even if the cover is supposedly breathable. Case in point, covering a gas grill can lead to dampness inside it, which can lead to mold over the course of winter. Leaving the grill uncovered but under the house eaves, you have less cleanup to do in spring. Which is why I no longer cover my Weber Q.

Not saying “don’t cover your Tab” here, just that you may well have a harder time taming the moisture problem in a humid climate with a covered trailer than you would if there was simply a roof over it. I’d add a couple of DriZAir buckets in addition to the StorDry if you’re already dealing with condensation issues this early in the cold season.

PNWtabber

Thanks, @VictoriaP.  I had left the wetbath door open, guess I'll have to find a way to do both.  

VictoriaP

PNWtabber said:

Thanks, @VictoriaP.  I had left the wetbath door open, guess I'll have to find a way to do both.  

A piece of pool noodle, sliced open, works well to hold open the lower cabinet doors. Or a rolled hand towel.

PNWtabber

Checking back to thank everyone for their suggestions.  I'm in the Seattle area and our winter temps are usually in the 40s and rain keeps things nice and damp.  Ventilation definitely seems to be the key to reducing or preventing condensation.  After returning home from a very soggy trip to the Washington coast, I put the windows in the vent position and kept the Alde set at about 55F for a few days to try to dry things out -- all cabinets open.  I now have the trailer in what I'm calling "storage" mode (Alde off, Caframo Stor-Dry on, Dri-z-air refilled, all cabinets open, windows in vent setting, and Pahaque cover on).  Not sure about opening the roof vent with the Pahaque cover on the trailer, I'll have to see if that can be done without putting undue pressure on the vent.   I'm also going to get some foam pipe insulation for the cabinets to make sure they stay vented (pool noodles being a rare commodity this time of year).

Now to plan my next outing!

Sharon_is_SAM

Not sure if you remove your cushions, but I discovered some mildew under the bottom of the bench cushions in the area of the vinyl fabric.  We have since slipcovered the bottom cushions eliminating the vinyl fabric touching the wood bench.  No further problems.

Horigan

What I do on the roof vent is to open it slightly, close the lock and lower the vent so it rests on the lock.  Has worked several seasons with no issues.

PNWtabber

Sharon_is_SAM said:

Not sure if you remove your cushions, but I discovered some mildew under the bottom of the bench cushions in the area of the vinyl fabric.  We have since slipcovered the bottom cushions eliminating the vinyl fabric touching the wood bench.  No further problems.

I didn't even realize there was vinyl on the bottom of the cushions!  I don't have a good place to put them in the house.

dragonsdofly

@PNWtabber, no need to put your cushions somewhere else. Just put a textured fabric (for air flow) under the cushions. I suggest thick terrycloth towels. The nubby texture allows for air movement and helps prevent condensation from forming. If not extra bath towels, even a good kitchen dish towel will do.