Leveler pros and cons

CharlieRN

We found out today that our 320 BD ordered back in August is supposed to be shipped from nuCamp late this week. Now that we're getting close to picking it up, we need some essentials like wheel chocks and levelers. With regard to the latter, there are a lot of choices but all fall into one of three categories: Blocks (Leggo-type or home-cut cribbing), curved levelers and mechanical. Based on what I've seen on the forum, there seems to be a roughly equal split in use among all three. Here's my summary of the pros & cons of each.

Blocks - homemade. Pros: very inexpensive, infinitely variable combinations. Cons: hard to store, Jed Clampett vibe (I'll concede this could also be a "pro".)

Blocks - Leggo type. Examples: Lynx Levelers, Camco FasTen. Pros: ease of use, application flexibility, durable. Cons: somewhat bulky, need more room to store.

Curved. Examples: Anderson Rapid Jack, Kohree Camper Leveler. Pros: very easy to use, moderate cost. Cons: reports of slippage on some surfaces, some reports of premature failures & breakage.

Mechanical (crank-type.) Examples: BAL Trailer Tire Leveler, EZ Leveler. Pros: easiest to use, quickest setup. Cons: highest cost, bulky, heavy, requires some maintenance, supplied ratchet wrench (Bal model) almost universally disparaged.

While the ease of use of the BAL is very appealing, it is expensive, particularly if you also get the "pizza box" to house it. I'd love to hear from the T@B community about the above assessment. Particularly appreciate hearing what I may have missed or gotten completely wrong. 

N7SHG_Ham

Two seasons on the Anderson with a Tab 400, no issues. Infinitely variable lift from zero to max of the device and easy to use, place device and move onto it until level side to side. Unhitch and level front to rear and done. There is no maintenance on them either. I bought the kit with chocks, step, leveler and a hitch support block, all comes in a storage bag.

WayneW

I’ll admit I’m in the Jed Clampett camp. I have a darigold milk crate bolted to the front rack with an assortment of 1x6, 2x6, and 4x4 boards. But they are all cut real pretty! And no, Granny is not sitting up on top in a rocking chair. 

I find I don’t use blocks very often. Most campgrounds, whether state, federal or private seem to have fairly level sites. And when I’m boondocking (most of the time) it’s seems I’m able to find a spot that’s “level enough”.  I’m not too picky about my eggs sliding to one side of the skillet. 

And I can always burn the boards in the campfire if need be. Just don’t try that with the plastic camco leggos!

ScottG

Hey hey, now, I resemble that comment about the Jed Clampett vibe of homemade blocks.  ;-)

That all I've used for six seasons. I carry two pieces of 2x10 (1-1/2" thick each) and a piece of 3/4" plywood, so can lift from 0 to 3-3/4" in 3/4" increments. So far I've never needed more than that, but if I did I'm sure I could improvise. Although you said they were bulky, they are probably the least bulky of all these options.

The biggest drawback is that getting onto them when they are stacked three high can be tricky, as they like to slide off each other. Sometimes I stagger them to make a small ramp, and I've found it's much easier to pull up onto them then to try and back on. So takes a little skill--nothing wrong with that.  :-)

pthomas745

When I got out with the trailer, I noticed things I never thought about before.  Like the "Jed Clampett" kind of setups for leveling.  There are so many different hacks and things that people do that "just work".  I use Lego blocks all around the campsite for all sorts of things, not just level.

The BAL leveler is best for me because I usually am out there solo, and it is the easiest to deal with. I can hardly back up.  How am I supposed to hit the blocks or ramps without having to "get out and look"?   The Universally Disparaged Wrench is still working after several years.  I carry a spare socket, just in case.  The BAL is bulky, and you have to be careful carrying it around.  I don't use a "pizza bag".  I wrap the screw in foam pipe insulation to keep the dirt off. 

After a couple of trips I learned the most important thing about leveling:  park in a level spot.  What your eyeballs tell you is "level" and what your trailer thinks is level are two different things. 

Tabaz

The ONE thing I like about my BAL, is that you can get 10" of rise.  For ease of use, I use a long ratchet bar to raise and lower.  Yes, it's very heavy and bulky.  Yes, you need a pizza delivery storage bag. BUT, it is rock solid and will not shift or move.  Tried the Lego blocks and Anderson, just didn't work for me.

mntrails

I too am in the Clampett category.  My boards are 5/4 x 6 decking (1" thick) and each is incrementally shorter than the next so they can make a staggered ramp.  The tread of the 320 BD tires seems to grab the end of each such that I haven't had any issues with them sliding around.  They tuck away and store pretty easily in storage bins on the front of the BD platform.  I have a little experience with the legos - they're a really nice solution but I'd have to say, these take less space.

Dutch061

Anderson with a Level Mate Pro, so simple my wife could do it. Put the leveler in front of the low side (observed with the Level Mate Pro) and drive forward until it is level. I can be set up and relaxing while most others are still playing with their wooden blocks, BAL, or otherwise.

In addition, the Level Mate Pro can store the hitch position when you disconnect and also allows you to see how far off level the trailer is before you even try. Anderson is limited to 4 or 5 inches but you shouldn't need more than that. We boondock, almost exclusively and I have no issues getting level. 

Brad

Tabaz

I need to throw this into the discussion.  I've been using the LevelMate Pro for several years.  Before getting to your campsite, you go into your trailer and turn the unit on.  Get back in your TV, access their app on your smartphone.  Now drive around looking for that perfect area to drop anchor.  The Pro will give you real-time readings as to how level the trailer is (front to back, left to right).  So now you stop and are ready to level the trailer.  The Pro will tell you exactly how many inches of rise needed for the low side.  If you're using the Anderson type, simply place the Anderson on the low tire, get back in your TV and slowly drive until the trailer is level on the Anderson.  If using the Lego's, the Pro gives you (in inches) how many blocks to use.  That's all too much work for me, so I simply put my smartphone next to the BAL and start cranking away.  Can't say enough how impressed I've been with this device.

https://logicbluetech.com/levelmatepro/

Tampakayaker

BAL leveler for the win.  Cut pool noodle on the thread to keep it clean and to prevent banged shins. Wrench works fine.  I made a bag out of an old crib mattress cut down left one side longer for a flap and elastic cord around it to hold it closed. 

Lego blocks for the stabilizers if the ground is iffy.

Marceline

I used the BAL leveler for the first year or so. I use the cheapie B&D power drill that I keep in the trailer to wind it up until it meets resistance then wind it the rest of the way with supplied ratchet. It works but it can be a bummer in 100degree heat. If you get a beefier drill I think that you could lift the trailer with it. I think that the best use for the BAL is when you have two people to spin the trailer for a prettier view and you need to level the trailer without the TV. But if you're new to having a trailer and you're worried about not getting the blocks right, the BAL is a pretty idiot-proof way of leveling a small trailer.

These days I mostly use the lego blocks. Over time I've gotten pretty good at guesstimating how many layers I'm going to need. I build my pyramid in front of the tire and pull forward onto the stack. Pulling forward (instead of backing up) also helps with the hitch binding problem. Like someone else mentioned, there are lots of uses for the legos. I put them under my tires when I leave my trailer on my friends' back 40 so that they don't sink into the grass. I also stack 3-4 of them to put under the front jack post so I don't have to crank it so much.

I recently bought an Anderson-style wedge leveler but forgot to try it out last weekend.

tteam

We use the BAL leveler too, It allows us to reposition the camper where we do not have the ability to fit the tow vehicle to run up on blocks. I have had some trouble using the wrench.  With the larger Boondock tires it can be a hard fit and I need to scrape away some of the ground on one side to get it to fit.  I now have a ratchet bar so I may use that when I have issues with the wrench.  My wife made a carrying case out of heavy weight fabric.  

rhyno

We used an Anderson type leveler on our old 34ft Rockwood and added grip tape to avoid slippage. We will bring that along for our new T@B along with a stack of lego blocks for the tongue and jacks.

dsfdogs

I use the lego style blocks and also bought the chocks that lego-fit onto them. I place the blocks in front of the tire, with the chock in front, then pull forward (I don't worry about pulling too far forward and off the blocks then).

I've used the blocks for other purposes too, like under the jack post if I needed extra height. 

As a solo, I think the Anderson levelers would be tough without the Levelmate, so haven't tried them.

I tried the Bal and did not like it one bit. It's heavy and very awkward and takes forever to crank up even and inch or two. I also didn't like that the paddles that cradle the tire when flat, are only cradling the outer edge of the tire when raised.

4ncar

Just call me Jed!🙋🏻‍♂️

Slackers

We use both the Anderson Leveling system "wedge" and a Clampett stair-step hack.  The latter consists of scavenged screwed and glued deck boards.  We mostly use the Anderson system, but if the ground under the tire is some-what soggy or sandy we take the Clampett approach.  For good measure we take an additional deck board to place under either the Anderson system or Clampett stair-step.  The board may also be used on the high side again if terra-firma is not so firm.   Lastly we have cut up  a few other deck board squares for placement under the stabilizer jacks.  I guess we can call the Clampett hack the "Stairway to Even."

GatorEgg

BAL.  That’s it.  I’ve got my trailer set up, plugged in and leveled by myself in 10 minutes while wife is inside prepping dinner.  Watching folks in next campsite over jockeying their trailer back and forth on legos, yelling at each other, while my dinner is on the grill.
It stores simply in the Outback propane box with its wrench.  I do carry the legos for use under stabilizers if they don’t reach the ground due to troublesome sites.

Mouseketab

Since I use a power mover to put the camper in position, I LOVE my BAL. I have been very neglectful for 14 years. I don't baby the screw, and use the original ratchet, and don't have a pizza bag. It just works!

Tabaz

CharlieRN - as you can tell from the responses to your question, leveling your trailer is a VERY personal event.  You'll eventually get it dialed-in like the rest of us.  If finances are sufficient, you'll buy the BAL, Legos and Wedges, and then find the ideal method that works for you.  If lucky, you'll only spend money on one of these.  In the great scheme of things, these are great problems to have. 

Michigan_Mike

It’s a whole new world out west and some mountainous areas will test your skills and no doubt the Jed Clampett approach will solve most issues.  I remember driving out to the Great Sand Dunes area with my former 320 and the place was full up.  Decided to take the trailer up to Zapetta Falls and when we finally made it to the top (after creeping along over rocks for 30-40 minutes) after traveling over rough terrain (my wife was livid! 🤣😂), found a bunch of spring break college students partying away.  The only open spot was marked “camp host” so i backed in along a cliff, set the parking brake, jammed some boulders in behind the trailer tires (just in case) and spent the rest of the night listening to the 20-30 mph westerly gusts hitting the trailer broadside.  I had to raise the tongue of the trailer up to hit level, dropped the stabilizers down as far as they’d go and left the safety chains hooked to the truck “just in case!”  I get the jaundiced eye every time I bring that story up!!!  🤣😂🙀 

CharlieRN

Thanks to all for the responses. While BAL users may not be the most numerous, they are undoubtedly the most enthusiastic.

I am going to adopt a go-slow approach. I have plenty of scrap dimensional lumber around and so can experiment a bit before spending money on any of the commercial offerings.

Again my thanks - this is a great forum.

ScottG

CharlieRN said:

...
I have plenty of scrap dimensional lumber around...

Ok, I confess this was ultimately my motivation as well. Every so often I think about upgrading to those slick lego thingies, but meh, there's still scrap wood in the shed!  :-)

jkjenn

Tabaz said:

The ONE thing I like about my BAL, is that you can get 10" of rise.  For ease of use, I use a long ratchet bar to raise and lower.  Yes, it's very heavy and bulky.  Yes, you need a pizza delivery storage bag. BUT, it is rock solid and will not shift or move.  Tried the Lego blocks and Anderson, just didn't work for me.

This is all true, but I go with the Anderson.

Why?

Easier, don't have to worry about dirt and sand in the threads, and takes up less space.

But, if you do a lot of boondocking (undeveloped campsites), the BAL is the way to go.

Verna

My two cents....I purchased a BAL leveler and it was just too much work for me. The new owner of it discovered it needed some lubricant and I believe a new screw. I still don’t want one again. 

As a woodworker, I have plenty of hardwood scraps, but I put use those for my art. The few dimensional scraps I have are saved for those “gotta use this” Verna-do tasks. 

Legos are easy for me. My original package had 8 Legos. But, I was a camp host one summer and I needed 9 Legos for the passenger side tire. The new packages had 10 in them , so I now have 18 Legos. That’s OK because they work for leveling my portable step, tables, chairs, etc. Hint:  if it is very muddy, place the Legos upside down. They will be easier to remove when leaving. 

I do also use a package of 4 stabilizer plastic pads for the tongue jack (in addition to 4 for the stabilizers). You ask why....sometimes, depending on the difference of level of the truck in relation to the level of the T@B, the tongue jack may not be long enough. So, if I place a stack of 4 pads under the tongue jack, I can always hitch or unhitch. 

db_cooper

I only use the BAL for when we are ski camping.  After trying to drive up on lego blocks on ice unsuccessfully and then helping other campers do the same thing unsuccessfully I decided to get the BAL.   For all other seasons I'll just take the blocks.

PNWtabber

Tabaz said:

I need to throw this into the discussion.  I've been using the LevelMate Pro for several years.  Before getting to your campsite, you go into your trailer and turn the unit on.  Get back in your TV, access their app on your smartphone.  Now drive around looking for that perfect area to drop anchor.  The Pro will give you real-time readings as to how level the trailer is (front to back, left to right).  So now you stop and are ready to level the trailer.  The Pro will tell you exactly how many inches of rise needed for the low side.  If you're using the Anderson type, simply place the Anderson on the low tire, get back in your TV and slowly drive until the trailer is level on the Anderson.  If using the Lego's, the Pro gives you (in inches) how many blocks to use.  That's all too much work for me, so I simply put my smartphone next to the BAL and start cranking away.  Can't say enough how impressed I've been with this device.

https://logicbluetech.com/levelmatepro/

Hi Tabaz:
I bought a LevelMate Pro.  Where did you mount yours?  I have a 2018 320S Outback.

Peggy