Replacement 30 amp receptacle

agilityvisionagilityvision Member Posts: 7
Anyone know where to order a replacement 30 amp receptable that is on the outside of the Tab 400. I got to campsite last night and when I plugged in I had no power. Power watchdog device said everything was good from the pedestal and the lights were lit on the power cord. But nothing inside. I tried flipping all the breakers back and forth.  I noticed this morning that two of the prongs are loose in the receptacle. Either that or wire came loose on the road. Was working when I left as I was plugged into cool the fridge down.
Thanks for any help

Comments

  • Sharon_is_SAMSharon_is_SAM Administrator Posts: 9,760
    Can you run on battery?  If so, is it possibly a converter problem?
    Sharon / 2017 T@B CSS / 2015 Toyota Sienna Minivan / Westlake, Ohio
  • Denny16Denny16 Member Posts: 5,431
    edited June 2021
    Or the wire connection on the back of the receptacle came loose.  You really need a multimeter to diagnose what the issue really is.  What model TaB do you have?  You can get a replacement receptacle from a Marine Supply source, or order one from nüCamp through your dealer.  Amazon has some boat hardware bits, and might have one also.  It is a Marinco 30-amp Inlet (receptacle).  You need to add some sealant to the rear of the connector against the TaB body.
    cheers
    2018 TaB400 Custom Boondock,  Jeep Gladiator truck, Northern California Coast.
  • agilityvisionagilityvision Member Posts: 7
    I have battery power, I just can't run the A/C most importantly. but none of the outlets have power or the microwave, etc. So no juice is getting inside. It's a Tab 400 2020
  • Denny16Denny16 Member Posts: 5,431
    edited June 2021
    You can access the inside of the 30-amp receptacle from inside the hanging locker, lift out the bottom panel and you will see the wire cable coming from the receptacle and going to the converter.  If you have the three-way fridge option, this is behind the under fridge locker, which requires removing the woodwork.
    cheers

    2018 TaB400 Custom Boondock,  Jeep Gladiator truck, Northern California Coast.
  • N7SHG_HamN7SHG_Ham Member Posts: 1,261
    If you end up replacing, I would consider changing to a Smart plug, eleminates the frustrating locking ring 
    2019 T@B 400 Boondock Lite
  • agilityvisionagilityvision Member Posts: 7
    N7SHG_Ham said:
    If you end up replacing, I would consider changing to a Smart plug, eleminates the frustrating locking ring 
    Do you have a link to the Smart plug? I haven't heard of it, but it's sounds like a good idea because the screw on on is a bit of a pain.

  • BaylissBayliss Member Posts: 1,357
    2019 T@B 320 S Boondock Lite2007 Toyota Tundra 4x4
    (Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
    Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)


  • Denny16Denny16 Member Posts: 5,431
    edited June 2021
    Bayliss, that is interesting info about the Smart Plug.  A good locking Marine grade connector (you can replace the screw on ring with a bayonet type quick twist on the cable quite quickly which will work with thenTaB inlet connector), is going to do the same thing.  Surface area of the plug only needs to be equal with, or be slightly larger, than the surface are of the wire, which the Marinco connector supplies.  That said, seems the Smart Plug would also work, but the downside is you need to replace the cable also, and spend more $.
    cheers
    2018 TaB400 Custom Boondock,  Jeep Gladiator truck, Northern California Coast.
  • bjn2bjn2 Member Posts: 95
    A marine inlet with a bayonet collar is not equivalent to a SmartPlug. The standard NEMA twist-lock prongs have a small fraction of the electrical contact area that the SmartPlug provides. The twist lock design gives you even less contact when you haven't properly twisted the NEMA-type connector after insertion. The poor contact is why NEMA twist connectors can melt or catch fire.

    You do have to also spend money for the SmartPlug cord end, but if you're handy, you can retrofit an existing cord with a replacement connector. One costs about $70-$100 but is less expensive than buying a complete cord with a SmartPlug connector.

    There's still a weak link in that the end of the cord that plugs into the shore power source has the usual prongs and twist issues, but that point is a better place to have overheating vs. on the trailer itself.
    Utah-based
    2023 T@B 320 S Boondock
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