Exterior SAE Connector as 12v Power on 400

CrabTab

manyman297 said:

The networking feature of the Victron charge controllers is something to consider as @AnOldUR points out. And I'm not sure what IP rating of those are but I don't think they can be outside in the elements (mounted on the backside of a solar panel for example). I know Renogy might have an MPPT charge controller that's exterior rated but then you lose the networking feature. 

@AnOldUR is right about the networking. Then you should consider what @ScottG said and add another port.

The Victron MPPTs are IP43 rated.

I actually went another route and chose 'One ring to rule them all'. I installed a 20A Victron (mounted in my tub) that controls my rooftop and briefcase panels.

Decisions...decisions...

Viajero

Thanks for the reply’s on storage. Think we’ll see how it goes with the stock panel first. In a pinch we can always pull from the Tesla battery via the Victron 12-12-9. Still have to work out the details on where to put it. Closer to the battery is better I’m sure. 

Our T@B 400 still has to be built. Has anyone ever asked for a second solar panel on build. Wonder if there is even room for it on the roof. 

AnOldUR

Viajero said:

Has anyone ever asked for a second solar panel on build. Wonder if there is even room for it on the roof. 

Except for being overloaded with work, I'd think that nuCamp would add a second panel. Regardless, you should consider that while camping parking in the shade has it's advantages. Having a solar suitcase that you can place out in the sun can give you the best of both worlds.

Viajero

AnOldUR said:

Viajero said:

Has anyone ever asked for a second solar panel on build. Wonder if there is even room for it on the roof. 

Except for being overloaded with work, I'd think that nuCamp would add a second panel. Regardless, you should consider that while camping parking in the shade has it's advantages. Having a solar suitcase that you can place out in the sun can give you the best of both worlds.

Very good point. Thanks

Denny16

I do not know where you would put a second PV panel on top a TaB400, the factory panel/panels occupy most of the available space between the roof vents and large rear Stargazer window.  On a TaB 400, if you want more solar, the portable external panels are your best option, and you have a factory SAE plug provided for that purpose.  

cheers

manyman297

There is room on the front roof of the 400 similar to how the 320 panel is mounted. I’m not sure where you’d route the wire down though. As @Denny16 states, an external panel is the best option and gives you the most flexibility. 

Denny16

The front of a TaB 400 only gives you about 4-feet of vertical area available by 6-feet wide.  The curve is fairly tight also, going from a rearward slope to a forward front, curving around 85-90 degrees on a 2-foot radius.  I think this would be a bit of a tight fit for a PV panel?

Cheers 

manyman297

I would think that the 400 has more surface area and a less steep curve to it vs the 320 but that’s just eyeballing it.

Denny16

The 320 front is more of a continuous curve, with a larger radius, where the factory solar panel mounts, above the window up to the roof vents.  I d not know what the space length is between the top of the window and the front of the vent.  A TaB320 PV panel might fit, if the panel is 4-feet or less in length? Perhaps someone with a 320 could give us this dimension.

Cheers 

Horigan

I put two Renogy flexible 100W panels on my 400, one behind and one in front of the roof fans.  I didn't feel the forward installation was too curved.  The panels are 48" x 21" and there was plenty of room between the roof fans and the front window.

Though the front panel isn't shown, here are some pics of the install that show the roof penetration and give you an idea of the panel width.

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/13562/my-t-b-400-solar-install#latest

Denny16

Grand, good to know the size of the Renogy 100-watt panel.  That panel should work on the front of the TaB400, and route the MC4 cable down a roof gland next to the holding tank/plumbing vent pipe, then down to the MPPT.

The factory solar install is around 190 watts, and the Victron 75/15 MPPT controller installed is only good for 200 watts.  So the additional 100-watt panel would require its own 75/10 MPPT controller or change the 75/15 for the next size larger (which is more $ than adding a second 75/10 or 75/15.  I went with adding a second 75/15 for my portable 200-watt panel setup.

So @manyman297 to answer your question, looks like an additional 100-watt Renogy panel would fit on the front back up against he vent and not have a tight curve to it.
 Cheers 

manyman297

Yeah, when I installed a maxx fan this fall I noticed how large that space was and thought it was the perfect spot to add more on-deck solar. Not sure I’d like the look of a panel up there though. 

I know the newer panels used on the 2021-22 400s is 160 watts. The older panels were 190 watts I believe. 

Denny16

That sounds about right, my 400 has a factory installed 194-watt. single solar panel on the back roof above the Stargazer window.
cheers

tphaggerty

I put 2 Renogy 175W panels on my 400, one on the front curve and one on the back. Plenty of space. Mine are wired in series, less wires and better low light performance due to higher voltage supplied to the controller (maybe).  Wires run inside the black moulding to the bottom of the tab then up through the bottom battery vent. In full sun, I’ve see 18+ amps charging.

One advantage of an MPPT controller is that it can do voltage conversions (buck down), so 24V panel setup (2 12v panels in series) to 12V batteries. I don’t believe that a PWM controller can do that (though I could be wrong).

I have a 100w suitcase as well. None of it is very effective for typical northeast woods camping unfortunately. If I had a chance to do it again, I would keep the suitcase, not add the rooftop solar, add a 3rd LiFePo battery and install a Dc to Dc converter in my TV (which I plan to do anyway, might still add the 3rd battery too). 

JeffroNC

This thread got me thinking.
I just installed a DC-DC charger in the back of my truck and wired it to the junction box on front of the TAB. It uses the existing wiring in the TAB to the battery. I am aware there is voltage drop but my charge rate went from 2 to 19 amps even during absorption. I might upgrade the trailer wiring when I replace the batteries.
So, now I have a high current connector going to the TAB battery out at the tongue. I will connect a suitcase solars panel there with a controller to supplement the factory panel. I really want to leave the generator home.


Back to the topic of this thread, I have a portable fridge in the back of the truck which is powered by the truck battery through a relay that turns on when the engine is running. I needed a way to power my portable fridge when the truck was parked so I made up this pigtail.
Link to plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014FEV6EU/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_RZ5YSAKER8MCQT2JZD8N?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Link to socket
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G8WLW2Y/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_VN0M2Q4KJSQQYQCWR8VF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1


I plug my portable fridge/freezer into the camper when parked and the main battery has no trouble running it and the built in DC fridge as well.

This is very helpful when traveling. I will probably plug the fridge in there when I have it out of the truck at the campsite. Thanks for helping me think of this.