I purchased two Bluetti PV200 solar
foldable panel (400 watts /20 amps) that I occasionally use when
boondocking in remote areas. I did not want to spend the money on a
Victron so I installed a cheep ($24) Amazon WERCHTAY 30A MPPT Solar
Charge Controller inside the camper between the outside SAE Connector
and batteries. The controller works well for me, it does not have
Bluetooth and I installed it under the rear bed so I cant see the
display but using the Victron BMV-712 Monitor I can see the increase
in wattage when I plug the panel in. When plugging into the outside
SAE Connector check that the polarity with the panel, my polarity was
off and I needed a adapter to correct it.
So just checking that I get this - the panel needs a controller to manage the recharge phases, and to control the voltage going in to the battery. But in my new tab 400, the solar connection goes right to the battery. So a suitcase connected through a controller would mean that my battery actually has 2 such controllers connected to it, each performing a similar function. I could choose an non-built in controller for the suitcase, and if I get a Victron it can be monitored through the same app as the intrailer controller. Do I have that right? 😀
Not quite. You need just one controller between the panels and the battery, either integral with the suitcase panels, or installed in the trailer. The simple option is get a suitcase panel with integral controller and plug it into your solar port that goes directly to the battery. The other more complex option cited by @subkron, is to install a Victon controller between the solar port and the battery, then use a suitcase panel without an integral controller plugged into the solar port. The benefit, as cited by @subkron, is the improved integration of the Victron devices.
We did the same thing. But the two controllers if using a solar suitcase built in controller, it still works, with each controller working independently of each other. Having the two Victron controllers, allows you to network them together for an even more efficient setup, with the panels generating the most, having priority over the other power, both of which are sent to the battery (see below comment from subkron. Cheers
2018 TaB400 Custom Boondock, Jeep Gladiator truck, Northern California Coast.
with the panels generating the most, having priority over the other. Cheers
@Denny16 For the (2) networked Victron controllers I'm not sure they are actually prioritized. If I recall (my T@B is not nearby) you can view the output of each controller independently, however there is a view that shows the "networked" solar (I think that is what they call it) that is the sum of the two. So in reality they don't prioritize, they just continually put out whatever each is cable of to provide the summed charge current into the system. If one was putting out 5A and the other is putting out 2A (in the shade), a priority scheme would only put out 5A, but the networked value would indicate 7A.
2022 T@B 400 Boondock 2015 RAM 1500 Outdoorsman Quad Cab South Jersey
@Bobby4 Yes, that is exactly what I did. I purchased another Victron controller MPPT 75/15 and mounted it next to the existing Victron in my 400. Then I just cut the 2 wires from the external solar connection to the battery and extended the 4 cut ends to the new Victron controller. You connect to both with the Victron app, assign them to the same network and they play nicely together. I purchased a 100W Renogy Eclipse suitcase without controller (and needed to purchase cabling) but it works great.
Am about to do the same. Had to wait for the underbed storage to be emptied. Did you add a fuse between suitcase collector and controller? Then another fuse between controller and battery connection? Thanks!
2020 T@B 400 BDL towed with 2019 Nissan Frontier Pro-4X Silver City, NM
@Bobby4 I have a portable panel with my 2017, with a separate controller. I can easily swap out cables on the controller (go from SAE to battery clamps, for example) and can charge practically any battery in the campground. I carry a spare battery on some trips, and I can charge it with battery clamps. There are several kinds of "quick disconnects" that make changing out the cables pretty easy.
@Bobby4 I have a portable panel with my 2017, with a separate controller. I can easily swap out cables on the controller (go from SAE to battery clamps, for example) and can charge practically any battery in the campground. I carry a spare battery on some trips, and I can charge it with battery clamps. There are several kinds of "quick disconnects" that make changing out the cables pretty easy.
That is awesome, can I ask what brand the disconnects are or the source?
Finally got under-bed area opened up. Will be leaving wire with mc4 connectors at backside of passenger side external storage area for connection to suitcase panels. Then wire to pass through drilled hole in birch plywood leading into under-bed storage area by battery compartment panel. Can I simply mount Victron Controller and in-line fuse (gingerly) to battery compartment panel, wire them in and finish with ring connector to positive and negative hubs?
Also, should the negative connection be down in the hub with the giant wire I had to use for Victron BMV712 installation or can it be added to the vertical post where the BMV 712 is installed?
@Dutch061, when AGMs peter out (hopefully not in near future), will replacement lithium batteries likely fit in battery compartment or will they sprawl into storage area? I realize battery footprint/heights are changing with advances in technology.
2020 T@B 400 BDL towed with 2019 Nissan Frontier Pro-4X Silver City, NM
Just noticed the Victron MPPT 75/15 controller has its own 20 amp fuse. The one installed for roof panels looks like it has a circuit breaker between it and the hub. Is the on-board fuse in the controller adequate or should I go ahead with an in-line fuse between controller and hub?
2020 T@B 400 BDL towed with 2019 Nissan Frontier Pro-4X Silver City, NM
Mine doesn’t have the additional fuse, just the one in the controller. The external fuse is easier to get to, and will not hur. The fuse between the controller and solar panel is also highly recommended, to prevent a wiring short from causing any damage. I think of the fuses/circuit breaker as extra protection and insurance. Whilst not technically required, nothing wrong with a little extra protection. Cheers
2018 TaB400 Custom Boondock, Jeep Gladiator truck, Northern California Coast.
@Bobby4 there are several different kinds of "quick disconnects" that owners have used. Anderson Powerpoles, one called Powerwerx ( I just noticed a Mc4 to Powerwerx cable on Amazon). The SAE type disconnects. Probably more. When you start looking around online, you can probably find cables with many possible combinations of disconnects. ( I just found an SAE to Powerwerx cable!)
I kept it easy on myself and stayed with what I understood, and have SAE cables from my controller to the cables for the trailer's port and to the solar panel. It took me up to last year to finally clean things up, put everything in a nice junction box. The problem I always had with a "standalone" controller that I was always moving the controller around, and the cables would get a bit loose at the controller. I discovered Wire Pins, little ferrules that crimped to the ends of the cables, and they make a solid connection at the controller. There are "gland nuts" that hold the cables firmly where they enter the box that provide strain relief. I have crimped SAE cables at the end of the solar panel cables, and the long cable in the picture just plugs right in to that cable. There is a separate SAE cable that plugs into the short cable, and that goes to the trailer port.
It took a while for me to get to this point: I had to learn how to make a decent crimp. What a gland nut was. What a wire ferrule was. Some of my other pictures of my earlier setups look, well, sloppy...but they worked!
There are plenty of posts from people here who put together some really nice setups, and I was inspired by all of them.
This thread shows a couple of installs that show the Anderson Powerpoles, and a few others. And, the very famous @Ratkity Solar Lunchbox.
@pthomas745 ....and The Solar System lunchbox solar controller still lives and keeps my battery topped off at home (I tend to camp in shady spots). The lunchbox tis a little faded, but still shelters the controller and its bluetooth connection!
2017 820R Retro Toy Hauler from 2015 Tabitha T@B from 2009 Reverse LG Teardrop (but a T@Bluver at heart)
Comments
I purchased two Bluetti PV200 solar foldable panel (400 watts /20 amps) that I occasionally use when boondocking in remote areas. I did not want to spend the money on a Victron so I installed a cheep ($24) Amazon WERCHTAY 30A MPPT Solar Charge Controller inside the camper between the outside SAE Connector and batteries. The controller works well for me, it does not have Bluetooth and I installed it under the rear bed so I cant see the display but using the Victron BMV-712 Monitor I can see the increase in wattage when I plug the panel in. When plugging into the outside SAE Connector check that the polarity with the panel, my polarity was off and I needed a adapter to correct it.
2013 Toyota Highlander 3.5L V6
Cheers
For the (2) networked Victron controllers I'm not sure they are actually prioritized. If I recall (my T@B is not nearby) you can view the output of each controller independently, however there is a view that shows the "networked" solar (I think that is what they call it) that is the sum of the two. So in reality they don't prioritize, they just continually put out whatever each is cable of to provide the summed charge current into the system. If one was putting out 5A and the other is putting out 2A (in the shade), a priority scheme would only put out 5A, but the networked value would indicate 7A.
2015 RAM 1500 Outdoorsman Quad Cab
South Jersey
Cheers