Before you buy your T@b: Battery life & maintenance

jkjenn

The T@b is the first RV many of us ever own. I thought I would pass along a few things I wish I had known, from day 1, about battery life and maintenance. These are things dealers should educate new RV owners about, but most often do not. I am hoping some of our battery experts will jump in and correct anything I might have wrong or add to what I have in this post. Most of the items below have more than one other thread with more details and a good search of the forum on the topic will be your guide.

Your battery requires active management, unlike your car battery. This is not unique to the T@b. RVs, including the T@b use deep cycle marine batteries, by default.

You must ensure that you maintain the proper water levels (for lead acid batteries.) You can pick up a hydrometer and do a YouTube search for checking the battery levels in your battery. It is pretty simple stuff.

Some people want to move the battery inside of their T@b to manage their tongue weight or for other reasons of convenience. This is OK if you have an AGM or a very well ventilated lead acid battery. Lead Acid batteries must always be well ventilated.

You must make sure your battery does not discharge below 50%. This is unlike the lithium ion batteries you are used to using with your consumer electronics devices. A simple voltmeter will help you keep track of that. The graphic below is a good chart for tracking your charge status and battery health. You will ruin your battery if you let it go below more than 50%.

There are things that will cause a phantom battery drain. They include the LP Detector, Smoke detector, Jensen, and even the USB/12v outlets. They arte very small drains, but over time will discharge your battery. When the T@b sits idle, you must maintain the charge. You can install battery cut-off switch to prevent phantom power drain as well as to prevent your TV battery from being run down when you park for a while to eat, shop, or whatever else crosses your path. There are plenty of videos on YouTube to walk you through that. You can also keep it maintained by plugging it in at home (using a pigtail adapter) or by using a solar panel to keep it charged. The Teardrop Shop offers the Goal Zero maintainer, which is a solar trickle charger. Lastly, you can opt to pull the battery from the T@b and charge at home, using a battery tender.

Most dealers install something like a 100ah Interstate Group 24 battery. This is sufficient to use for running the lights and a little use of the fan or water pump. It is not great, on its own for boondocking for more than a night or two. If you plan to boondocks, you will want either 120 watts or more of solar, to upgrade the batteries to 2 6v golf cart batteries, upgrade your 12v battery or add a second 12v battery, or to use a generator. You can do any or all of these options to extend your use. The golf cart batteries will increase your amp hours from 100 to 225. 

There is a 30 amp fuse connected directly to the battery. Make sure to check this fuse when troubleshooting 12v power issues in addition to the fuses in the convertor. FYI, to tell if a fuse is blown, pull the fuse and look at the wire that goes between the 2 prongs inside of the fuse. If that is broken, the fuse is blown.

The fan, Jensen, water pump, outside light and light above the kitchen sink (at least on my 2015) seem to use the most power. You can help extend your battery life by using other battery operated lights. The 3 way fridge on battery should only be used for short periods of time (15 min) or if being charged by the TV. There is a pretty broad range of TV charging efficiency when it comes to battery charging and using the fridge. My 2011 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sahara, can't quite keep up with charging and fridge use. The 2 way fridge uses less battery than the 3-way, but will still be a huge power draw. There are a few threads on this topic. Search for: Normal battery drain.

There is a lot of information in other threads on solar if you want to learn more about solar.

Verna

One quick comment. Just because you have a "12 volt" battery , the 50% mark to never go below is NOT 6 volts, but rather 12.25 volts, as shown by Jenn's chart above. 

Photomom

Awesome post! Really helpful for us newbies!

jkjenn

Verna said:

One quick comment. Just because you have a "12 volt" battery , the 50% mark to never go below is NOT 6 volts, but rather 12.25 volts, as shown by Jenn's chart above. 

Great clarification. Thanks, @Verna. 

Nomad

Not sure about dealers installing a Group-27, mine is a 24 and both MN dealers install 24s - One told me that the T@B battery box bracket wasn't large enough for a 27 - I never checked or verified this as I was a know nothing rookie at the time.

jkjenn

PXLated said:

Not sure about dealers installing a Group-27, mine is a 24 and both MN dealers install 24s - One told me that the T@B battery box bracket wasn't large enough for a 27 - I never checked or verified this as I was a know nothing rookie at the time.

You are right. Will update.

jkjenn

This is the battery my dealer installed in my T@b when I bought it: http://www.interstatebatteries.com/Products/RT/PID-HD24-DP(Automotive+Truck).aspx?dsNavigation=Nrc~id-3,N~4294784989-4290241168-4283758510&Title=Pure+Lead+HD24DP+replacement++battery

Verna

Thank you, Jenn. Very good info.   Dutifully bookmarked

mickietucs

PXLated said:

Not sure about dealers installing a Group-27, mine is a 24 and both MN dealers install 24s - One told me that the T@B battery box bracket wasn't large enough for a 27 - I never checked or verified this as I was a know nothing rookie at the time.

  Uh oh - my dealer said he was going to put in a Group 29! I'm wondering now....will find out when I go pick it up!

mash2

Before I move my battery, I did install a Group 27 battery in an '06 T@B.  Length of group 27 is 12 inches while group 24 is 11.13 inch.  Measure the battery tray to see if the newer T@B can hold one (the height is slightly smaller on group 27 an width is similar (6.6 vs 6.63).  Group 29 batteries are 13 inches long and 6.8 vs 6.6 inches.

Nomad

Thanks mash2 - I requested a 27 but the dealer did a 24. Everything works fine for my style of camping but would like a little more battery. Two sixes sounds like too much work - when you're on the road full-time, major stuff requiring lots of tools just ain't in the cards - and maybe overkill for me.

Nomad

boo - Sure, the Zamp connector on the propane box goes direct to the battery. If you wanted the most efficient charge without any draw on the battery you could pull the fuse or add a cut off switch then all the charge would go to and stay in the battery.

Ratkity

PXLated said:

boo - Sure, the Zamp connector on the propane box goes direct to the battery. If you wanted the most efficient charge without any draw on the battery you could pull the fuse or add a cut off switch then all the charge would go to and stay in the battery.

Wait! The ZAMP connector has reversed polarity (positive and negative). You can reverse the red and white wires from the Zamp plug on the battery and you'll be golden to use a regular charger there with standard SAE plug. You might want to make a note to yourself if you ever decide to buy highly over-priced and inefficient (IMHO) Zamp solar chargers that you reversed the Zamp wires.

PX's suggestion for direct and most efficient charge is to pull fuse is best and use a charger  Use the alligator clips from your battery charger to the battery and let it do it's thing after pulling fuse and setting it somewhere you'll be able to find it. After several hours of charging and removing (disconnecting) the charger, open the battery lids (there are two - 3 cells each) by gently rocking the lid back and forth while pulling up and check the distilled water level. It should just cover the plates (I'm boldly assuming you have a lead-acid flooded battery from the dealer - if AGM or Gel, ignore). Aa always, keep spare 30amp fuses (or 25a, depending on what you have) in case there's a surge that blows the fuse when you put it back into the inline fuse protector holder. If you want a fully charged battery, leave the charger on overnight.

There's a named-brand product called "Battery Tender" that comes highly recommended and comes with a myriad of different connectors that'll keep your battery charged up in "float mode" if you don't want to invest in solar like the tiny Harbor Freight 5W solar charger (I used one and it failed). Battery Tender also makes "chargers" combined "tenders" (tenders are basically a float chargers - I keep one on the Harley battery when I'm not on it and riding )

Please, Do NOT use the SAE connector plug the Battery Tender into the Zamp solar panel connector. Like I said before, those wires are reversed. You won't get any juice to the battery because the reverse polarity mechanism in the tender and in the camper will engage. 

edited cuz I can't spells

Nomad

Ratkity - Didn't mean to imply using the Zamp plug, only that the Zamp's are connected directly to the battery so yes you can plug other things directly.

Quote = "decide to buy over-priced and inefficient" -- Love how political solar panel opinions are. My Zamp's work just fine and were the easiest most efficient way to get solar, without a lot of time and research, as the T@Bs are already set up for them.

boo - You'll find I like Zamp, Ratkity probably likes Renology (or anything but Zamp), Jenn likes Goal Zero :-)

ChanW

Good write-up Jenn.

Another item in the preserve-your-battery arsenal is having a battery isolator installed in your TV.

To avoid sucking all the charge out of the battery in your TV - for example when leaving the 3-way fridge on 12v while still connected to your TV - a battery isolator will keep the two batteries separate, yet still allow the TV's alternator to charge them both.

This way you won't end up with a dead battery in both the Tab and the TV, if you forget to switch the fridge from 12v when you stop for a long supper.

jkjenn

ChanW said:

Good write-up Jenn.

Another item in the preserve-your-battery arsenal is having a battery isolator installed in your TV.

To avoid sucking all the charge out of the battery in your TV - for example when leaving the 3-way fridge on 12v while still connected to your TV - a battery isolator will keep the two batteries separate, yet still allow the TV's alternator to charge them both.

This way you won't end up with a dead battery in both the Tab and the TV, if you forget to switch the fridge from 12v when you stop for a long supper.

Very true, @ChanW. It should be noted that there are mixed views on installing a battery isolator in the TV. My dealer wouldn't due it because of concerns of what it can do to the TV. I have said read some similar views. I know the offroad community uses them and I have personally, never heard of an isolator gone awry. Personally, I could go either way on it. 

mash2

I have an isolator.  I added it after I drained the car battery a couple of time leaving the T@B hooked up and forgot to unplug the 7 way connector.  I am not aware of any significant issue that would impact the TV.  My understanding is that if the isolator malfunctions, the the engine will not charge the T@B batteries, but will not negatively impact the TV system.  What did your dealer say that it could do to the TV?  My dealer had exactly the reverse position (I did not buy from the dealer so they had no gain from their opinion).  For me it is good to know that if I park somewhere with the T@B I don't run the risk of draining my TV battery.  I would think with a 3 way frig this could be a lifesaver (given the 3 way heavy draw in DC).

Verna

Ratkity said:

PXLated said:

boo - Sure, the Zamp connector on the propane box goes direct to the battery. If you wanted the most efficient charge without any draw on the battery you could pull the fuse or add a cut off switch then all the charge would go to and stay in the battery.

Wait! The ZAMP connector has reversed polarity (positive and negative). You can reverse the red and white wires from the Samp plug on the battery and you'll be golden to use a regular charger there with standard SAE plug. You might want to make a note to yourself if you ever decide to buy highly over-priced and inefficient (IMHO) Zamp solar chargers that you reversed the Zamp wires.

PX's suggestion for direct and most efficient charge is to pull fuse is best and use a charger  Use the alligator clips from your battery charger to the battery and let it do it's thing after pulling fuse and setting it somewhere you'll be able to find it. After several hours of charging and removing (disconnecting) the charger, open the battery lids (there are two - 3 cells each) by gently rocking the lid back and forth while pulling up and check the distilled water level. It should just cover the plates (I'm boldly assuming you have a lead-acid flooded battery from the dealer - if AGM or Gel, ignore). Aa always, keep spare 30amp fuses (or 25a, depending on what you have) in case there's a surge that blows the fuse when you put it back into the inline fuse protector holder. If you want a fully charged battery, leave the charger on overnight.

There's a named-brand product called "Battery Tender" that comes highly recommended and comes with a myriad of different connectors that'll keep your battery charged up in "float mode" if you don't want to invest in solar like the tiny Harbor Freight 5W solar charger (I used one and it failed). Battery Tender also makes "chargers" combined "tenders" (tenders are basically a float chargers - I keep one on the Harley battery when I'm not on it and riding )

Please, Do NOT use the SAE connector plug the Battery Tender into the Zamp solar panel connector. Like I said before, those wires are reversed. You won't get any juice to the battery because the reverse polarity mechanism in the tender and in the camper will engage. 

edited cuz I can't spells

Ratkity, if you read the sticker next to the plug you've referenced, the plug is set up for Zamp's polarity. It is not reversed for the purpose it was set up for. Battery Tender does have the opposite polarity, but that is not the intended purpose of the plug. Should you choose to change the polarity to suit a different application, that is not my business, and you do not need to tell everyone that Zamp is wrong, because they aren't, in the application intended.

I added the necessary plug for Battery Tender and wired it per Battery Tender's instructions on my Silver Shadow. When I needed to connect the Battery Tender, I pulled that connector from the battery compartment and used the plug intended for the Battery Tender. 

jkjenn

mash2 said:

I have an isolator.  I added it after I drained the car battery a couple of time leaving the T@B hooked up and forgot to unplug the 7 way connector.  I am not aware of any significant issue that would impact the TV.  My understanding is that if the isolator malfunctions, the the engine will not charge the T@B batteries, but will not negatively impact the TV system.  What did your dealer say that it could do to the TV?  My dealer had exactly the reverse position (I did not buy from the dealer so they had no gain from their opinion).  For me it is good to know that if I park somewhere with the T@B I don't run the risk of draining my TV battery.  I would think with a 3 way frig this could be a lifesaver (given the 3 way heavy draw in DC).

@MASHit's been so long that I don't remember what they said.

ChanW

Hmmm. Never knew there was a controversy.

Maybe it depends on the type of isolator.

I'm happy with ours. It's saved me a couple of times.

Ratkity

ChanW said:

Hmmm. Never knew there was a controversy.

Maybe it depends on the type of isolator.

I'm happy with ours. It's saved me a couple of times.

I apologize for the way my post came across. I should have said there was an adaptor for the SAE plug set up for the Zamp and to beware of the wiring issue and left it at that. I'm sorry for any upset feelings I caused anyone. While there's a road out there paved with good intentions, my post was initially started to prevent damage and ended up on that road. Again, I'm sorry.

Jimbo

Can anyone share a video of a battery cut-off switch installation?

jkjenn

@Jimbohere are several: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=rv+battery+cut+off

Jimbo

unable to play video

Nomad

Getting an error also - the error message looked like it was a YouTube problem, not the link though.

NomadPilgrim

Reading this in the dark as we are boondocking and the battery only lasted a day.  An awful lot for a newbie to digest.  Thanks Jenn, tomorrow will be busy. And expensive. -Lisa

RollingLagrima

I hope you are not somewhere deathly warm without AC or FF.  Don't forget to check fuses. It could be as "simple" as that.

Kats

We've learned a lot of tricks, many from this forum. Here is what we do, and please correct me if we are doing something wrong here:
(1) When the T@B is not in use, we pull the fuse and store it in the trailer, same spot every time. 
(2) We charge the battery with either the Zamp or shore power.
(3) We treat the fridge as a giant cooler. If we have no shore power, we run it on propane for a few hours during the day, then shut it off completely after the sun goes down. Everything stays cool. We also bring a cooler to keep things really cold until we need to access them. We leave the Zamp plugged in and charging during the day.
(4) Whenever possible we take out the fuse at the battery to save power. 
(5) Always check the Zamp to make sure that it is charging and that there isn't an error message. If there IS an error message, start trying to solve the problem at the battery and then work your way out to the Zamp itself. One time it didn't charge and it was the simplest of issues--we didn't have the connectors fully set in. Imagine that--a combined 30 years of education between the two of us and we can't use a battery charger without supervision! 
(6) Chances are that you won't starve, freeze, or broil to death..however, you had better make sure that your fire extinguisher is charged and ready to roll, as well as easily accessible. 

Nomad

3) If you're on propane, why shut it off? to save the battery draw it still consumes? -- Since you have solar, does it not charge the battery enough to be able to run the fridge all night?
I run mine 24/7 when on propane/solar with no problems.

jkjenn

PXLated said:

3) If you're on propane, why shut it off? to save the battery draw it still consumes? -- Since you have solar, does it not charge the battery enough to be able to run the fridge all night?
I run mine 24/7 when on propane/solar with no problems.

Agree. It uses very little battery when on propane. I used it all weekend.

sbutzen

For those interested in using a battery tender to keep their T@B battery charged, for simplicity, I purchased this SAE adapter http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AHCWGOO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01 which allows you to plug the battery tender directly into the ZAMP port.  Works well.