2021 T@b 400 Trim coming off

bergger

This past weekend, when on a trip I noticed the trim on our 400 coming loose in a few areas.  It is the trim that covers the seams where the side walls and roof join together.  It is coming loose where the trim pieces join together. It was very obvious in one area so I looked at the rest of the trim and found more coming loose.   One piece also has a crack in it.  When pushed back down behind the keder rail it of course just pops back up out of place.  There are oval holes in the trim part that tucks behind the keder rail that appear to have the bottom portion missing.  Others do not have that part missing.  I assume that those holes are where screws attach it to the trailer??  However I am not certain about that as I can not see behind the keder rail to find out exactly what is holding the trim on.   

I contacted NuCamp Warranty and was advised that the issue is out of the one year warranty and not covered under the three year structural warranty.  However they said they would send me 5 pieces of trim at no charge.  I have asked them how I am supposed to remove the old trim and install the new trim but have not heard back yet.  I also have yet to contact the closest dealer to me about this as I am waiting to get more info from NuCamp.  In the meantime does anyone know how the trim is attached and how to do this?  Just looking at it it does not appear to be an easy job.  But if nothing is done the trim will continue to loosen and I'm sure will eventually come off while traveling.  It is a bit disappointing after 2 1/2 years of use with only about 4500 miles of travel. 

The red arrows show the trim pieces that are coming loose and or have cracks and the green arrows show the areas of the trim that are coming loose. 



Here is the worst part and what I initially noticed while camping.  



Here is behind that the area pictured above.



Here is a crack and loose area on the drivers side of the trailer.



Any others with experience in this area and how to replace or repair it?

manyman297

I haven’t had to replace mine yet but I know that the screws holding the keder rail on also hold the trim on. Just remove the black plastic that’s inserted in your rail. That’s meant to be disposed of anyway. You’ll see the screws. Just be sure to put some new butyl tape behind each screw after reattachment so you don’t get any water going into the wall of the trailer. There’s also a bead of sealant that you’ll also break once you unscrew the rail (the visible bead you see running along the rail and wall). That also will need to be reapplied.

bergger

@manyman297 thanks.  I never used the keder rail so I never removed that plastic strip.  Now the job does not look so bad.  One thing I did is go around and check all the screws hold the rail on.  Many were loose so I tightened them up.  This also made me check the screws on the fenders and found them to begin loosening too.  I had two on the bottom of the fender, for the fender and lower trim, that had backed out over 1/4".  Checking all those will now become another addition to my yearly preventative maintenance and checks.  I also think I will add an extra screw to the keder rail and trim where they join together.  

manyman297

I need to check those fender screws too.

Duchene

My 2018 T@B 400 is also experiencing the same problem.  There are two places that Nucamp put screws in the top of the trim that have broken free by shrinkage.  Also experiencing cracking and strinking at or near the joints in the trim.  I will be contacting Nucamp about this issue. 

djc

Same problem for us also.  in fact 2 sections flew off on the highway.   

Hopefully Nucamp will come up with an installation procedure and perhaps modified parts to prevent this from reoccurring.  

bergger

There should not be any screws in top of the trim. Wonder if the dealer did that? The trim is held on with the metal keder rail and screws. After I found some cracks in mine last year I pulled the keser rail trim, the black strip, and found several screws that had loosened over time. Checking all the screws for the keder rail/trim and for the fenders is now part of my annual PMC. Where the trim cracks at at screw point simple drill a new pilot hole close to it and either move the screw or add another one. They should add some 3M tape on the trim as well as the screws. 

85Redwood

Yep...I have the same problem on my 2021 400 😠

djc

I wish Nucamp would provide a retro fit or something. My 2020 trim is a mess also.  Looks just like yours on one side and my other side is missing altogether as it flew off some where on the highway. I am relived that the trim that flew off  my trailer didn’t hit a car and cause an accident that hurt someone or worse.  Maybe a recall is required and a permanent fix and solution should be provided.  

ScottG

bergger said:

There should not be any screws in top of the trim. Wonder if the dealer did that?

...

I think the screw is intentional, though not a great design. My 2015 has a screw in that location, albeit buried in caulking. As you can see in the photo, it also cracked in that location. At least it has remained stable all these years.

JamesC

This discussion prompted me to examine the trim on my 2018 400. To my relief there are no cracks and very little loosening of screws on the keder rail. Not sure why mine is holding up so well. The only similar issue is a few bubbles in the decal near the bathroom window. Perhaps it’s related to the mild weather in our region or keeping it under a carport when not in use. 

djc

I think temperature swings have a lot to do with it.  Nucamp’s design does not use the appropriate material for all the conditions that the trailer might encounter.   

AnOldUR

Like @ScottG said, there is a screw through the top of the trim that ultimately cracks the trim because it concentrates too much force in a small area. Although mine is broken like his underneath it, so far the large stainless fender washer I'm using is holding the trim down and there has been no further damage.

bergger

Our 2021 has no screws in the top of the trim.  I wonder if that was something they did on earlier models? I agree that the way the trim is attached is not the best.  It does require inspection at least once a season.  I learned this after ours just started to come a little loose.  Simply push the trim down below the keder rail and retighten the screws.  As I've mentioned I also added an extra screw at the trim joints.  

If they used 3M tape and had the trim manufactured where the joints actually attached to each other and reinforced the locations where the screws attach it I think it'd be just fine.   As it is, you really need to keep an eye on it and as soon as you see it start to pop up you need to tighten it back down.  

You can see in the picture poste by @85Redwood where the problem starts.  The oval holes where the screws go through break.  They should be oval holes and not cutouts as seen in his photo.  Once the bottom of the oval hole breaks off the trim works itself up and out from behind the keder rail due to vibration.  The screw no longer holds it on it's just held on from the pressure of the keder rail.  Then if not noticed and corrected the wind can catch it and rip it off.  That's why I drilled some small pilot holes and added a few extra screws.  The holes I drilled in the trim are much smaller than the factory ones and I believe less likely to crack and break.  But only time will tell.  

johnfconway

Thanks as always @bergger for the heads up! Got ladder out and tightened everything down. No protruding screws, but some needed up to 7 normal wrist action turns (which are about a quarter of a turn each). Some needed no tightening at all. Added it to Spring maintenance list.

bergger

@johnfconway if you did not check the screws on the fenders when you checked the trim make sure you do that.  I also had several of those loose.  

djc

I’m going try some all weather gorilla tape over the oval holes to help reinforce the holes along with some silicone caulking in strategic spots to adhere the trim to the rail.  The trim will likely still crack but hopefully it will prevent it from flying off as I am driving, potentially causing an accident.  

Bottom line is NuCamp chose the wrong type of material for the trim and the conditions that will be encountered. Trim pieces you have on your car don’t split and crack when exposed to the elements. 

I suspect that cost was the biggest factor in their decision to use this type of plastic.  

johnfconway

bergger said:

@johnfconway if you did not check the screws on the fenders when you checked the trim make sure you do that.  I also had several of those loose.  

I did check. Each screw required the same quarter turn. I think the RV service place (who are excellent) took them off when servicing bearings last spring. They torqued to the same feel. Plastic to Azdel... they know how easy it can be to strip a screw.

85Redwood

My pic earlier in this thread was taken just before leaving for a 10 day trip....my trim piece came off sometime yesterday:

When the trim was still on and I was sitting beside the camper as the morning sun was getting stronger the trim was audibly creaking as it warmed up...my hypothesis is that in addition to brittleness it expands when heated which leads to stress cracking.

I can replace it with the same material but the definition of insanity comes to mind.

Anyone have an idea for a decent, nice-looking alternative (i.e., not eternabond 😒)?

johnfconway

85Redwood said:

I can replace it with the same material but the definition of insanity comes to mind.

Anyone have an idea for a decent, nice-looking alternative (i.e., not eternabond 😒)?

Sorry to see that!

They must have changed T@B 400 trim from white to dark gray or black for 2021 model year (unless trim color was an option?). Our off-the-lot 2020 happened to have white trim. Other than a few spots that sport a beige-ish stain, the white trim seems pretty stable. Once the cover is off (mid-April to November) ours sees unrelenting SW New Mexico sun.

Two-tone trim (if NuCamp would sell it in pieces)?

djc

Exactly what my tab 400 looks like 2 missing on passenger side.   Also loose trim on drivers side.  

 i reached out to Nucamp and they offer no support as far as resolving the issue other than selling me replacement pieces.

Sharon_is_SAM

@85Redwood and @djc, short of using a 3 D printer to create trim replacement sections  (which would not solve the installation design issue), what about trying to find some kind of wide, black weather stripping?  Rubber or a heavy vinyl.  It is strictly cosmetic.  I know it is very costly to replace the original and you are risking the trim cracking and flying off again anyway.  Thinking garage door rubber seal, automotive window seal, car door rubber strip, etc.  Trim Lock makes of variety of products of many sizes.  

Bayliss

@85Redwood and @djc, in addition to Trim-Lok, a couple other possible sources are https://www.steelerubber.com/camper-rv/insert-trim and https://uni-grip.com/ .  You might want to send those (and any other similar source) some photos of  your trim and see what they might suggest.  Maybe there is something close that you can modify to be aesthetically pleasing.  I will be following this to see if you come up with anything.  Good luck!

Bayliss

Looking again at the photo by @85Redwood (i.e., posted April 23rd), if the plastic trim is still partially attached to the trailer, why not remove the screws from the keder rail and pre-drill some new holes through the plastic trim (so the plastic doesn't crack) adjacent to the original screw holes, and then re-secure both the trim and keder rail to the trailer?

I just recently removed the plastic trim and partially detached the keder rail on my 2019 320 S Boondock Lite to resecure the rubber flap seal.  In that process, I discovered that there are a few screws that secure the plastic trim to the trailer wall, which are concealed under the keder rail.  You likely won't see those trim screws (at least completely) unless you first detach the keder rail.

Before detaching the plastic trim, I marked those few screws with green painter's tape (see second photo) so it was clear where I needed to reattach the screws and secure the plastic trim.  The photo is a good depiction of how the plastic trim screw is concealed under the keder rail (which itself is held in place by several more screws.)

The third photo shows a closeup of the black trim and two holes (to secure the black trim) marked with the green painter's tape.  All the remaining screw holes are for attaching and securing the keder rail over the plastic trim.

Removing and reattaching the black trim and keder rail was an easy process and did not really require much time or effort.  It will help to add some caulk to the screw thread before reinserting them to prevent water intrusion in those areas.  Similarly, put a small bit of caulk in any original holes that will no longer be used.

bergger

As I mentioned when I started this thread I also drilled a few new holes and added a few new screws.  I also make it a point to look at the trim before and during trips.  Since I added a few new screws near the joints, and tighten the screws every spring I have not had any issues.  Also I always carry duct tape  or gorilla tape and eterna bond tape in case I need to do a temporary repair on the road.  If it starts to separate on a trip a good tightening down of the screws with the addition of some tape would probably get you home where a better repair can be done.  

I just uncovered the trailer today from winter storage and checked every exterior screw I had access to all over the trailer.  It's a good thing to do every spring.  The trim screws I tightened last summer when I encountered this issue were still tight for the most part.  A couple just slightly loose.  

pattygiffin

I appreciate all the input about the trim coming off and consequently pulling out the screws from the keder rail.  I am planning to try the multiple screws approach but am not hopeful.  The black trim responds to temperature and I live in Bend, Or where it goes down to the 30s and 40s at night and up to 70 and 80 during the day.  I have been hand tightening the screws for a few years now ever since I noticed it splaying out off the back of the trailer.  I was going to use longer screws in the places where there were screws that backed out.  I don't know how to get the trim pliable enough to stay put on the body of the trailer while I get all those screws in...hair dryer?  Or how to clamp it while the glue dries. I have a 2015 T@B which I have driven cross country and down Baja and camping all over the Northwest and CA.  I am not great with tools but I am learning!  Sorry the pictures are cattywompus.

Gkopan

On my new2me 2021 400 BD, the lower front driver side plastic trim piece was cracked almost apart just ahead of the wheel trim when I bought it and it came with a replacement. I removed the broken one and discovered the new one will need bending quite a bit further (and shortening) in order to fit. Any suggestions for bending (heat?) that won't weaken the material at the bend? Also, what sealant to tack the wider blk trim to the non-keder-rail edge of the plastic trim piece on the roof? Thanks!

b407driver

Anyone happen to have a source for these relatively unique screws used through the keder rail? I need to get my trim tacked back down as well, but I'm assuming NuCamp uses this particular screw since the the application is into fiberglass, etc. 

lkc001

I have a 2017 Tab 320S and am also having same issues--I almost lost a long length of the pliable rubber trim on a trip that is under the plastic black trim.  I taped it down with duct tape to make it back home then used GOOP to reattach.  The GOOP works really well for that pliable rubber gasket stuff, but is messy.

Have several places around the hard plastic trim where the trim that holds the screws completely broken off so I also need to remove keder rail, all trim, redrill holes next to broken holes and replace screws,caulk, blah blah blah.  Everywhere--along the roof line front to back, wheel well plastic trim, etc am starting to see this in spots.  Plus have some news cracks in trim on roof from hail damage.  

Anyone know if there is a black self leveling caulk or something to use to cover up a crack to prevent water intrusion on this plastic?  One of the cracks from hail is going to require caulk or entire replacement of the shroud across the entire back of the trailer, but the crack is small and I'm not up to that project or the cost.  

Am also very disappointed that I am now looking at this being an ongoing issue going forward.  Live in Colorado where we get high temps in summer and well below freezing for weeks on end in winter and even though I cover trailer during the winter it can't stop the temp fluctuations. 

Poor choice of trim material, period, Nucamp, yet they still continue to use it and surely they have had plenty of feedback by now??

Cracker

I just found the same separation of the trim and the failed holes.  I first considered the additional screws but later opted to try "super glue" just to see if it would hold.  The jury is still out!