How to properly attach chains to TV

Ramrod

If this video is right, I have been doing it wrong all my life!

https://www.uhaul.com/Articles/Tips/1/How-to-hook-up-a-U-Haul-trailer

Cyclonic

I am thinking that is specific to their trailers.  The chains on them seem very, very long.  Seems a good way to solve that.

Rudibuck

The dealership where we purchased our teardrop did have us cross the chains. However, they did not instruct us to pull the chain through the opening and connect it to itself. 

Nomad

You can also use a ball bungie to hold them higher.

mash2

I use a bungie cord around the hitch to raise the chain a bit.  

Tonydjd

Easier to twist chain the  links will start to shorten chain. Just my 2cents

Tonydjd

Good info. Thanks Bob. I had planned on shorting up the chains from factory way to long.

JandJ92010

I just unbolted mine from the A-Frame, moved the chain back a few links and re bolted them. Didn't cut the ends off in case they need to be longer again someday.

Ratkity

JandJ92010 said:

I just unbolted mine from the A-Frame, moved the chain back a few links and re bolted them. Didn't cut the ends off in case they need to be longer again someday.

2x good idea. When I changed my TV went from a 2006 Rav4 V6 (with tow pkg) to a 2015 GMC Canyon V6 (with tow pkg), I needed the full length of chain provided by the factory to accommodate a longer hitch (in order for tailgate to clear the jack when tailgate was down).

ChanW

Huh, the law is very specific!

Has Little Guy begun using two points of attachment to connect the chains to the a-frame now?

On our Tab the chains are connected to the a-frame with only one central link, making "crossing" the chains impossible.

I've been intending to re-do that for a couple of years! 

jkjenn

ChanW said:

Huh, the law is very specific!

Has Little Guy begun using two points of attachment to connect the chains to the a-frame now?

On our Tab the chains are connected to the a-frame with only one central link, making "crossing" the chains impossible.

I've been intending to re-do that for a couple of years! 

I can cross the chains on my 2015.

ScottG

Mine (2015) were attached by separate bolts on either side of the tongue. I did the same thing JandJ92010 described above.

My utility trailer, in contrast, has the chains attached to a central welded loop. They can't be crossed, or shortened without cutting something.

ChanW

ST_Bob,

Do you know of the controversy about the length of the brake safety cable, ie: there was a discussion I read somewhere arguing whether the brakes should be applied when the ball-hitch connection fails and the chains are still connected, or if the brakes should be only applied if the chains fail completely and the trailer is free of the TV... Any consensus that you know of?

ST_Bob said:

The chain must be short enough so it cannot touch the ground under normal circumstances,  even when hitting a bump. It must also be left slack enough so the brake safety switch can be pulled out by the cable which should be connected right to the tow vehicle's hitch - never to the chains. Loop it as necessary to prevent it dragging and assure it can be pulled out if the trailer comes off the ball.

I thought this was common sense. But it has to be called uncommon sense now I guess.

Cyclonic

ChanW said:

Huh, the law is very specific!

Has Little Guy begun using two points of attachment to connect the chains to the a-frame now?

On our Tab the chains are connected to the a-frame with only one central link, making "crossing" the chains impossible.

I've been intending to re-do that for a couple of years! 

Yes, they have made that adjustment on the newer trailers.  Still on my list to change as well.

ChanW

Ours are surge brakes, and I don't know if the cable-pull puts the brakes on fully for those either. I'll have to check.

I'd think not. It doesn't seem like it would be safe to lock up the brakes in any case.

Ratkity

Short story:
I was going maaaybe 20 mph and lost a utility trailer (empty except one small item). Chains failed. 4-flat plug. No surge brakes. Nothing and no one got hurt. I probably had another mild heart attack (j/k).

Long version:
I was on the end of my 3rd round trip moving 80 miles away and was almost to my parents' house. I didn't hitch up the trailer, the rental company did. I just checked that the ball lever was locked down (my mistake). On this last trip, the cotter pin to the hitch itself went byebye somewhere/sometime and the big hitch pin wiggled out. The chains failed - just hooks - no safety locks or screw-lock-ring thingies (this is almost 22 yrs ago). I heard this big BANG (hitch itself was solid steel - 40 lbs) and when I looked in the rearview mirror of my Chevy Silverado, the 6x12 ft trailer was gaining on me! It took everything I had not to slam on the brakes. Oiy. The trailer slowly rolled to a stop between my neighbor's mailbox and a small dogwood tree. I had to rewire the 4-flat plug. The hitch was in the middle of the street and was so heavy, it acted like a brake until the coupler popped off of it (probably some odd physics equation going on here - force equals mass x weight?.. uh...).

Lessons learned - ditch the solid steel hitch! (It was my Dad's). Replace hitch and coupler pins with locking ones - ones with rubber covers are nice to keep dirt and grit out. CHECK and lock THE CHAINS! Remind self not to have heart attack when thinking about "what if" scenarios of that entire day of moving.

That was such an awful move. Lost an alternator on 1st trip, bicyclist hit me on 2nd trip (I was stopped at stop sign) and the cyclist fell over. I panicked and threw truck into park, but missed. I hit reverse. I think the guy behind me about wet himself when he saw my rig (had huge wedge-shaped camper shell on truck) and that trailer going backwards. Jumped back in and stopped truck, but not before messing up knee. Kid on bike was embarrassed, but ok and only had a scraped knee - truck was a tank and didn't even get a scratch (kid hit edge of grill guard). Then the 3rd trip, the trailer went byebye. By then, I needed my mommy (and/or sedation). I think I vaguely remember eating a carton of ice cream instead. 

JandJ92010

ST_Bob said:

That's a very smart way to do it.  Did you make sure the bolts were originally grade-8 bolts?

Yes, I saw that the bolts were grade 8. I bought longer ones so that the length of the chain that I wasn't  using could be bolted back up also, so it wouldn't hang down and get in the way.

ChanW

I went to a trailer place today, who manufacture utility trailers, looking for a shackle to use to connect my chains to the a-frame.

He pointed out that NY state law requires that the two chains be attached to the a-frame by individual welded-on brackets:


Much different than what was installed on our Tab at the factory, just a hole with a repair link that held both chains:

I've replaced that link with two separate connecting points, and will consider the weld-on version in the future, when the frame needs to be painted.

abenteurer

I agree with ST_Bob on the chains. Tie down chains on U.S.Air Force cargo aircraft are not twisted at all because twisted chains lose significant strength. Be safe. Love that Texas law!