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Hose/pipe loose

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    VernaVerna Member Posts: 6,878
    Mr_Mrs_Gnome said:
    @Verna, did you wave the magic wand???
    Shhhhh......
    Verna, Columbus, IN
    2021 T@B 320S  Boondock “The T@B”
    Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
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    ericnlizericnliz Member Posts: 4,437
    Beats havin' ;) her wave a broom around! Magic wands are MUCH nicer!
    2016 T@B MAX S-aka: WolfT@B
    TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
    Spokane, Wa.
    Eric aka: Lone Wolf  


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    RatkityRatkity Member Posts: 3,770
    My broom is disguised:


    2017 820R Retro Toy Hauler from 2015 Tabitha T@B from 2009 Reverse LG Teardrop (but a T@Bluver at heart)
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    ericnlizericnliz Member Posts: 4,437
    YEEEEEEEEEEEE-ha =)
    2016 T@B MAX S-aka: WolfT@B
    TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
    Spokane, Wa.
    Eric aka: Lone Wolf  


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    RatkityRatkity Member Posts: 3,770
    edited August 2016
    And to keep this on topic - the pipes are stock :wink: Edit: Oops, should show pipe side!



    2017 820R Retro Toy Hauler from 2015 Tabitha T@B from 2009 Reverse LG Teardrop (but a T@Bluver at heart)
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    RatkityRatkity Member Posts: 3,770
    edited August 2016
    Ut oh, wrong thread!!  (moved pict)
    2017 820R Retro Toy Hauler from 2015 Tabitha T@B from 2009 Reverse LG Teardrop (but a T@Bluver at heart)
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    ericnlizericnliz Member Posts: 4,437
    Ratkity, too late, I think we already high-jacked this one! :o
    2016 T@B MAX S-aka: WolfT@B
    TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
    Spokane, Wa.
    Eric aka: Lone Wolf  


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    DerecoDereco Member Posts: 89
    ericnliz said:
    Ratkity, too late, I think we already high-jacked this one! :o
    Given resolution (with thanks to PXlated, Verna et. al.), I am happy to have the thread hijacked. Anyone want to trailer to Newfoundland and buy a 2002 R1150RS?? :) 
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    VernaVerna Member Posts: 6,878
    Dereco said:
    Given resolution (with thanks to PXlated, Verna et. al.), I am happy to have the thread hijacked. Anyone want to trailer to Newfoundland and buy a 2002 R1150RS?? :) 
    If you're happy, we're happy  =). If you have time, photos of how the fix works would be helpful to others. A situation such as this has never been documented, and we had never seen this before. Thanks.
    Verna, Columbus, IN
    2021 T@B 320S  Boondock “The T@B”
    Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
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    DerecoDereco Member Posts: 89
    edited August 2016
    Quick update: the wrong parts were sent out, a new fan kit for the square vent in front of the door. I assume address labels were reversed from a package intended for me. I will pop a quick note back to PV. But wow, one day courier service from there to Newfoundland. I am impressed!
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    ScottGScottG Administrator Posts: 5,477
    Dereco said:
    ...
    Anyone want to trailer to Newfoundland and buy a 2002 R1150RS?? :) 
    Visit Newfoundland (again)? Absolutely!

    Put another motorcycle in the garage? Absolutely not!

    Sorry. :-)
    2015 T@B S

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    DerecoDereco Member Posts: 89
    Dereco said:
    Quick update: the wrong parts were sent out, a new fan kit for the square vent in front of the door. I assume address labels were reversed from a package intended for me. I will pop a quick note back to PV. But wow, one day courier service from there to Newfoundland. I am impressed!
    Update - PV has confirmed the new package was sent out last week, so all good.  :) 
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    DerecoDereco Member Posts: 89
    Another quick update: New vent kit arrived today, all looks good. The new hoses fit into the new black vent piece (that goes into the trailer wall from inside to out, see pics above). :)
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    VernaVerna Member Posts: 6,878
    Happy Camping, @Dereco!  Promise us that if the CO detector chirps again, you will do an exhaustive search to find what it is telling you ( other than get out!). 
    Verna, Columbus, IN
    2021 T@B 320S  Boondock “The T@B”
    Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
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    ericnlizericnliz Member Posts: 4,437
    Dereco, Glad to hear you finally got the hose problem resolved. One question though... what caused the problem to begin with, or do you know?
    2016 T@B MAX S-aka: WolfT@B
    TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
    Spokane, Wa.
    Eric aka: Lone Wolf  


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    DerecoDereco Member Posts: 89
    ericnliz said:
    Dereco, Glad to hear you finally got the hose problem resolved. One question though... what caused the problem to begin with, or do you know?
    No idea why the initial hose did not fit the opening, the new one does.

    Verna said:
    Happy Camping, @Dereco!  Promise us that if the CO detector chirps again, you will do an exhaustive search to find what it is telling you ( other than get out!). 
    Will do Verna! :) 
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    DerecoDereco Member Posts: 89
    Another quick update to say just I picked up the trailer, repair all done and new vent fan to boot. We head out this weekend so will update after the weekend if all works. :) 
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    NomadNomad Member Posts: 7,209
    Cool - glad it got done and hope the camping goes well.
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    DerecoDereco Member Posts: 89
    Sadly, the fridge will still not work on propane.  The hose is repaired, new vent, all that is good, but not on propane. Question, start a new thread with symptoms, etc or keep going here? 
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    VernaVerna Member Posts: 6,878
    Keep it here. It's your continued symptoms.  

    Do some searching and reading here. If you don't find a thread with your symptoms, check with your dealer. If still not fixed, check with Norcold. They are very particular about their service centers fixing the problems. 
    Verna, Columbus, IN
    2021 T@B 320S  Boondock “The T@B”
    Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
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    ericnlizericnliz Member Posts: 4,437
    Dereco, What happens when you try to light the fridge on propane? Sometimes you have to hold the "light" button down for about 15 to 20 seconds.
    2016 T@B MAX S-aka: WolfT@B
    TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
    Spokane, Wa.
    Eric aka: Lone Wolf  


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    VernaVerna Member Posts: 6,878
    I have to hold my button down for up to a minute at times until the green light finally remains solid. 
    Verna, Columbus, IN
    2021 T@B 320S  Boondock “The T@B”
    Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
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    ericnlizericnliz Member Posts: 4,437
    I'm surprised the dealer didn't make sure the fridge worked before returning it to you. Does the stove top light? Just curious because I always start the stove top before lighting my fridge to make sure the propane flow is there. I've had to try to start mine more than once at times, other times it starts right up. No rhyme or reason, just does, or doesn't.
    2016 T@B MAX S-aka: WolfT@B
    TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
    Spokane, Wa.
    Eric aka: Lone Wolf  


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    DerecoDereco Member Posts: 89
    edited September 2016
    Thanks Verna and Ericnliz.  So, here is what I happens:  
    • I  hear clicking,  very faintly, from outside even more so, but still faint, when the button is not depressed; sometimes when depressed, but not like before when it worked; 
    • I have held it in for the extended periods as recommended, but no go. I used to her the pilot catching before, the green light on and off and then finally on (when it worked);
    • I removed the cooktop (yes, it works) and looked, and can see a slight sparking to the right, directly inside or behind where the green light wiring goes. I am attaching a picture that shows the spark. This is taken from an angle, looking out over the top of the fridge (one can see the vent on the side of the trailer towards the top of the picture).
    • I called the trailer shop, they said they just installed the parts but did not test the fridge to be sure it worked. Doh!;
    • I was on shore power, at the same time (so no low voltage problem...); and  
    • I have checked the Forum for "clicking," it may be a thermocoupler issue?
    Thoughts welcome. I have not yet written PV yet, thought I would post here first. 

      
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    Tabaz Tabaz Member Posts: 2,358
    I just arrived at a campsite and turned my vehicle off.  Verna was there to greet me.  She noticed a clicking noise coming from the front of my trailer.  I was traveling with the Norcold on propane.  Apparently, the flame went out and the Norcold kept attempting to relight.  So the clicking noise may mean you're not getting any/enough propane to the unit.  Regarding problems with starting the Norcold on propane, I always light a stove burner first and wait about 20 seconds.  Turn it off and then move the Norcold temp dial to the 6 o'clock position.  Press the ignition button and hold for one full minute after the green light comes on.  Then slowly release the button.  Seems to work every time.  Also check the fuses and thermocouple fitting on top of the frig.
    2016 Outback 320 with a 2010 Ford Expedition,
    2024 Ford F150 Supercrew short bed.
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    ericnlizericnliz Member Posts: 4,437
    The "clicking" noise you hear is the fridge trying to light . Like OutbackAZ said, hold the button down, and slowly release it. Also ditto on the thermocoupler fitting, lots of loose ones. If all else fails, call, or write PV, or maybe someone else has an idea. Sounds like you're trying all the right things to no avail. Good luck, and please let us know what you find out. I'm still flabbergasted to the fact the dealer didn't confirm the fridge worked while they had it in their possession.  
    2016 T@B MAX S-aka: WolfT@B
    TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
    Spokane, Wa.
    Eric aka: Lone Wolf  


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    PhotomomPhotomom Member Posts: 2,217
    If you hear clicking, and see sparking, one thing to check would be the distance between the electrode and the burner. Per the service manual the distance should be 1/16" min and 1/8" max.
    John and Henrietta, Late 2016 T@B S Max in Western New York
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    SweetlyHomeSweetlyHome Member Posts: 336
    The spark your seeing is not right.  If its sparking where you can see it in the general wiring it is not sparking at the burner.  I can't quite see clearly the two objects the spark is jumping between in the photo.  But it looks like the insulation on the white wire might be compromised.   You might try several wraps of good electrical tape around it and rerouting it as far from what might be the High Voltage Coil to its left.  If your not comfortable with that I would take it to a professional.

    I work for a company that builds ignition wiring and components for natural gas engines.  Frequently trouble shoot this sort of failure.
    Jupiter, Florida~T@B 400, with 2018 Toyota 4Runner

       
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    DerecoDereco Member Posts: 89
    edited September 2016

    SweetlyHome said:
    The spark your seeing is not right.  If its sparking where you can see it in the general wiring it is not sparking at the burner.  I can't quite see clearly the two objects the spark is jumping between in the photo.  But it looks like the insulation on the white wire might be compromised.   You might try several wraps of good electrical tape around it and rerouting it as far from what might be the High Voltage Coil to its left.  If your not comfortable with that I would take it to a professional.

    I work for a company that builds ignition wiring and components for natural gas engines.  Frequently trouble shoot this sort of failure.

    Thanks again to all for feedback.

    To Sweetly Home, the photo might be misleading, the sparking is down at the level of the top of the fridge, alongside the two blue 'things' indicated by the longer red arrow. The area is all contained in a small black plastic (?) tray, held in place by the screw indicated by smaller arrow.

    Question: does some part of that constitute the thermocoupler? Or is the part in the 2nd picture?

     





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    ScottGScottG Administrator Posts: 5,477
    I think the "sparking" described is an indicator of some sort on the circuit board. Mine does the same thing.

    About half the time, I also have trouble lighting my fridge on propane. (Yes, I run the stove first.) The light will come on and then go right out again, even as I continue to hold down the button. After a couple rounds of this, it won't light at all. Cursing does not help, but walking away does. In all cases, the fridge would light without any drama after sitting a couple hours (or in one instance, overnight). Once it starts, it runs fine.

    I might check that distance between the electrode, and the burner. Thanks for pointing that out, Photomom.
    2015 T@B S

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