Replaced stabilizers with leveling jacks

Jltab

Does the LG frame and PV frame are the same? So I can do this mod?

Dalehelman

Yes

Jltab

Thanks Dalehelman, can you share the step by step modification?

Verna

Jltab said:

Does the LG frame and PV frame are the same? So I can do this mod?

@Jltab:

LG (Little Guy) is the current marketing arm of the T@B Camper's and they have never manufactured T@Bs. 

PV (Pleasant Valley which will be changing their name to NuCampRV) has manufactured T@B campers since 2012. There are differences between the DM and the PV parts and manufactured campers. 

DM (Dutchman, and this seems to include the Thor manufacturer also) manufactured the T@Bs in the United States prior to Pleasant Valley gaining the rights to manufacture the T@Bs. 

Dalehelman

There is no modification to the trailer at all. The only modification to the jack is to one of the "L" mounting brackets. You need to turn one of the "L" brackets 180' and cut about 1/4" off of top angle for clearance between the brackets. This may require using slightly longer bolts. Mount the "L" brackets to the trailer using existing bolts. Then reassemble the jack to the brackets. 
( This may require 3 hands or a helper )  disassemble  one jack at a time to provide a guide for reassembly.

[Deleted User]

So far I have been THRILLED with the ease of the BAL leveler (people always ask me about it) but I find its hard to store in route, so I think I really like this idea!!  I have a Jeep Wrangler so once I have the T@B hooked up I can't open the back door so I've been having to store the BAL leveler inside the T@B wrapped in a towel. I won't remove the BAL until I'm hooked to the TV. This is very impractical! This idea would cover stabilizing and level all in one motion.

Dalehelman

robyn769 said:

So far I have been THRILLED with the ease of the BAL leveler (people always ask me about it) but I find its hard to store in route, so I think I really like this idea!!  I have a Jeep Wrangler so once I have the T@B hooked up I can't open the back door so I've been having to store the BAL leveler inside the T@B wrapped in a towel. I won't remove the BAL until I'm hooked to the TV. This is very impractical! This idea would cover stabilizing and balance all in once motion.

You got it!

AldebaranJill

@Dalehelman - I found a photo online of the jacks, and want to clarify, you're saying you have to disassemble, trim, rotate, then reassemble one of the two L brackets? I couldn't get a clear picture of how these brackets are positioned in your photos. (Like @robyn769 I'd love to leave blocks and the BAL leveler at home, reducing the amount of gear considerably).

rfuss928

robyn769 said:

So far I have been THRILLED with the ease of the BAL leveler (people always ask me about it) but I find its hard to store in route,

I often hear folks complain about the BAL Leveler being difficult to store.  I store mine in the tongue box.  It stands in the front with the open end up.  It takes up very little room and the electrical cord and water hose nest in the central area where the tire fits during use.  The ends of the frame's tubing can be seen in the front corners of the box in this photo.  It doesn't need to be removed to get anything else out of the box and is readily available as soon as the cord and hose are out.  For me this makes bringing the BAL along easy and convenient.
Maybe something similar would work in the rear of the stock LP tank cover. 

Nomad

robyn769 - I have a Wrangler and stalled the Jack-E-Up so I could ge the gate partway open while hooked up. Can't get it all the way but enough to get the gear I need before I unhook.
I can open it all the way if I angle the TV to the right.

Nomad

I just knew there'd be a catch - Modify this, cut that :-)
And a bigger box to carry stuff :-)
Maybe all mod threads need difficulty rating and tool requirement right up top...Like cutting torches and a pole barn full of tools :-)

Dalehelman

AldebaranJill said:

@Dalehelman - I found a photo online of the jacks, and want to clarify, you're saying you have to disassemble, trim, rotate, then reassemble one of the two L brackets? I couldn't get a clear picture of how these brackets are positioned in your photos. (Like @robyn769 I'd love to leave blocks and the BAL leveler at home, reducing the amount of gear considerably).

Jill there are 2 bolts that hold the  L. Brackets. Remove those bolts. Cut 1/4 to1/2 inch off of the end of one of these brackets. Turn it 180' then reinstall bolts ( longer bolts may be needed)
Tools required for this job.
adjustable end wench or socket set is better
hacksaw
on a 1-5 scale I rate it a 1.5 to 2

Nomad

Since it involves cutting steel, I'd add a table mounted vice to the requirement and rate it higher.

AldebaranJill

@Dalehelman- Is this the one:
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/24-scissor-jacks-two-jacks-with-handle/52109

Dalehelman

PXLated said:

Since it involves cutting steel, I'd add a table mounted vice to the requirement and rate it higher.

Maybe a "C" clamp and a  picnic table in your case.

Nomad

:-)

[Deleted User]

PXLated said:

robyn769 - I have a Wrangler and stalled the Jack-E-Up so I could ge the gate partway open while hooked up. Can't get it all the way but enough to get the gear I need before I unhook.
I can open it all the way if I angle the TV to the right.

Hi PXLated, I actually installed the Jack-E-Up but the jack pole became slightly floppy and would not sit upright when parked. The pole of the jack smaller than the hole in the trailer, so there was play in the jack.  I didn't like how it would slant when disconnected from the TV so I took it off :-(

Nomad

Mine' whobbly until I get the weight on it and then all seems well. Do have to get it positioned right as I crank though.
PopT@B makes a custom one that fits better - Custom fit for the T@B.

Dalehelman

Contact PullT@B on this forum. He makes and sells a much better version of the Jack E Up. I think it is available at the teardrop shop also. It is very stable and easy to install and remove.

Michigan_Mike

Here's the link to PopT@B's removable jack stand adapter.

Dalehelman

Michigan_Mike said:

Here's the link to PopT@B's removable jack stand adapter.

I have one of these and if you need a removable tongue jack this is the one.

AldebaranJill

I was working on this modification, and removed the existing BAL / Norco Industries "Light Trailer Stabilizing Jacks". Here's a photo of the model number:



If I look up Part # 23007, Norco Industries, I find this:

http://norcoind.com/bal/products/consumer/stabilizing_products/lt-tr-stabjack.shtml

http://norcoind.com/bal/downloads/aftermarket-catalog/Stabilizing Jacks.pdf

These two sources say:
Lifting Capacity is 700 lb
Static Load Capacity is 1000 lb

I am curious why people are saying you can't lift the trailer and level it with these jacks, given our trailers are 2000 lbs, these jacks can each safely lift 1/3 of the total weight, and there's four of them, and the tongue jack wheel and tires also support weight.

I was working on this mod after reading people saying it was unsafe to level the trailer with these, but these are indeed "jacks" and do have a specified lifting capacity. (I tried to click on the link in this thread which has some other discussion, but it went into a redirect, so if there's another place to ask this question, please let me know, thanks!) I'm now confused.

Jill

Dalehelman

stabilizing jacks operate in an arc. Once they touch the ground they continue to move horizontaly. Not good. That applies lateral stress as well as vertical. Lifting jacks only move vertically.

AldebaranJill

Ah, gotcha!

I've measured this horizontal displacement to see how big it really is, since they seem to be designed to have a much greater vertical displacement to horizontal displacement ratio of movement. 

Between the jacks in their retracted position where they wouldn't be in contact with the ground, and their fully extended position, it's about 2 inches of horizontal motion vs 15" of vertical motion. That's a ratio of 0.13 if it's linear. Note these are officially 19" jacks, I didn't totally retract or extend for these photos.

So for every 6" of lift after contact with ground, it needs to slide 0.8" inches sideways. If you took turns adjusting them one at a time on whatever side you were lifting, wouldn't they be able to make these little sideways (moving closer to front of trailer) movements as the load was lifted?

Nomad

I'm thinking it don't matter as you'd need to be Hercules to turn the cranks to get lift.

Dalehelman

The crank has a small radius for a reason.

ScottG

PXLated said:

I'm thinking it don't matter as you'd need to be Hercules to turn the cracks to get lift.

Agreed. I've used them for "fine leveling" (an approved use, according to the literature) and they start fighting back once they touch down. Not sayin' it can't be done, but backing one wheel onto a couple short 2x10s seems a whole lot easier to me.

Nomad

Yep - Or my beloved lego blocks :-)

AldebaranJill

The BAL crank does have a short lever/turning radius, but the crank that comes with the mod jacks (I purchased the package that includes crank) has the same leverage/turning radius. There was a sticker that warned only to use that crank otherwise the warranty was voided. Using the crank is part off my camping fitness routine.    One of my favorite places to camp is Kalaloch in Olympic National Park, and you need to rotate the T@B to get the best view of the ocean. Can't spin on blocks.

Dalehelman

The  scissor action on the lifting jacks increases lift capacity with less force needed. similar to a block and tackle.