Replaced stabilizers with leveling jacks

Jltab

AldebaranJill said:

ScottG said:

Got it--thanks for the clarification. I do occasionally like to rotate the trailer after unhooking, and this provides some options for doing that.

As you suggested in a previous post, I'd still be inclined to place blocks under the wheels and lower the trailer back onto those.

Using Flat Tire Method for Side to Side Leveling (BAL Foot Pad, Lynx Blocks)

I received the BAL low profile foot today, and as expected, it allows me to extend the back stabilizers up much lower (because front is lower). They were nearly at maximum extension (note I wasn't "lifting", I was 'extending'). Using the front jack for lifting (BAL Foot Pad) I was able to raise both wheels off the ground. This allowed me to easily place 5" of Lynx blocks under one tire. From reading the block bag, this is the maximum you're supposed to use. With the wheeled BAL foot, I was unable to get the blocks underneath easily, I could get 4, but not the pack of 5. 

I'd say if you camp where you like to spin the trailer, this is an alternative method. Using the lower profile foot you can get the same amount of side to side leveling as driving up on them. Yes, I know know it's more human effort than driving on the blocks, but when you need to spin the trailer, it's possible, without being Hercules, to use the flat-tire method in conjunction with a low profile foot, to get the height you need and then lower it back down onto blocks.

For reference you need the 2" BAL Foot Pad 29056B $15, Available on Amazon.

(Moderators, if this should be a new thread, let me know)

I have 2016 T@B s max, does the flat tire method will work on leveling my tab?

AldebaranJill

Jltab

I have 2016 T@B s max, does the flat tire method will work on leveling my tab?

Is the method for changing a flat the same on a 2016? I haven't read about it being different but I make no assumptions about year to year changes.

Nomad

Been pretty much the same for every model year I've seen.

plicato

Sorry to join the discussion so late, but I question the need for the jacks at all.  If the stabilizers are rated at 1750 pounds each, lifting the trailer will not come close to that, since the weight is shared by the wheel jack, the wheels, and any other stabilizers in contact with the ground.  My 2018 T@B 320 S weighs 2080 lbs dry with gear ( I weighed it at a truck stop).  If I use the rear stabilizer to level the trailer left or right, there’s no way the load will come close to the 1750 pound rating.  Keep in mind, I’m not trying to lift the trailer off the wheels, but just level it by a few inches.  Am I missing something?

Paul

Dalehelman

It’s not that the stabilizers can’t support the weight. It’s the way the stabilizers are designed that is the problem. As the stabilizers move they come down in an arc. Once they contact the ground the arc motion is stopped. Continuing to force them to move with the crank will cause the stabilizer to buckle. Scissor jacks move in a straight up and down direction allowing them to lift much heavier loads making them suitable for leveling.

plicato

Thanks Dale, for the explanation.  Makes sense!

BrianZ

Good explanation, Dale!

GeoMars

I'm thinking about making this mod on a 320 Boondock, and have a few questions.

(1) I've read both opinions of whether lifting the trailer using the stabilizer or jack might or might not damage the frame or attachment points. Has anyone damaged anything doing this?
(2) Does anyone have a photo showing what the jacks look like in stored position on a Boondock? I would like to see clearance before doing the mod.
Thanks!

Grumpy_G

I bought Dale's trailer back in July and I undid his jack mod for two reasons: The scissor jacks reduced ground clearance in the back and they were not mounted perfectly in line with the frame rails. 
The leveling stabilizing jacks are not supposed to be used to lift the trailer, at least not actively. The instructions for a tire change say to lower the tongue as far as possible, extend the rear leveling jack to the ground, and then jack up the nose again. I have never tried that though. 

(see MuttonChops below)

MuttonChops

Grumpy_G said:
. . . The [original] leveling jacks are not supposed to be used to lift the trailer, at least not actively. The instructions for a tire change say to lower the tongue as far as possible, extend the rear leveling jack to the ground, and then jack up the nose again. I have never tried that though. 

@Grumpy_G ; FYI
1) Original factory jacks are stabilizing jacks, not leveling jacks.
2) I have used the standard stabilizing jack to lift trailer as described to change tires many times.  Works great.  Since my T@B has the pitched/boondock style axle I do place several wood blocks under the stabilizing jack.

GeoMars

Thanks Grumpy_G and MuttonChops, these are helpful replies.

ScottG

@GeoMars, I was among the first to question this mod--more out of concern for the the structural integrity of the attachment points than of the scissors jacks themselves. While I still stick to my story in theory, several owners have adopted this mod and five years out I'm not aware of any damage occurring as a result. That doesn't mean I'm advocating it, I'm just addressing your specific question.

I know there are some pictures of the jacks other than what are included in this discussion, but you would have to search to find them. Not sure if they would show exactly what you are looking for.

BrianZ

@GeoMars, in regards to your question(2), Dale Helmans last photo in his first comment on the first page, he shows the scissor jack in retracted position ..  Here's a copy - I added the arrow showing what appears to be the bottom of the retracted jack..

If you add to this, the difference in elevation of a Boondock model, you could get a pretty good idea of the clearance.  It looks like slightly less than half the thickness of his spare tire.

Homebodyatheart

@ScottG, I’m another Tabber with @Dalehelman ‘s scissor jack mod. I love it! I’ve had it for four years now and am problem free. It also makes my 2017 320S more stable than with the original four stabilizers. Still have the front two stabilizers, four 5000# scissor jacks would be serious overkill! 

BrianZ

I am another happy user of @Dalehelman's scissor jacks; however, I modified his bracket to address @ScottG's concerns by adding a welded support bracket more solidly attached to & supported by the trailer frame..
https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/7345/frame-support-bracket-for-rear-scissor-jack-levelers-mod
We have happily been using them for 3 years now, for both routine stabilizing and minor leveling.  I can even jack a wheel off the ground enough to do the annual greasing of wheel bearings.  I have not relied on them for going underneath for adjusting brakes, for example, just out of an abundance of caution; though I believe it wouldn't be a problem.  I would use them for changing a tire though, while hitched.