Removing the Norcold 3 Way Fridge

jkjenn

Has anyone pulled their fridge out to access the rear of the fridge? I feel like it was discussed before (maybe @ChanW ) but I could not find it. I want to I spent the burner and see if it needs to be cleaned and wondered if we had photos anywhere here or tips from those who have done it.

Nomad

Can't recall who but ya, a couple have done it - remember the pics.
Chan or Frank maybe.

ChanW

nope, not me. I remember seeing that somewhere too. It might be on Yahoo.

Nomad

Hmmmm - I saw it here... I think it was whomever installed new fans (main and aux) and tied them into the fridge thermostat... Frank (OutbackAZ)?

Tabaz

I would never want to remove the Norcold!  Screws galore, wiring, propane hoses, etc., etc.  I did not need to remove it when I replaced the cooling fan.

mash2

From Yahoo group:

Removing the 3-way Norcold refrigerator

I removed and reinstalled my 3-way last summer. I did not remove the stove. The gas

line connects on top near the middle about 6 in. from the front. I was able to slide the

fridge out far enough to get to the pipe connection and wiring before completely

removing the fridge. My gas line is pretty long and can move a lot without causing

problems. The gas line to the stove is pretty much the same story. I disconnected the

vents at the front of trailer by taking off the caps and removing three screws on each

vent. The vent lines are flexible but you can't pull the fridge out very far with them

connected.

I reversed the process to reinstall the fridge.

Duncan

Diane Hammon sadieh79@yahoo.com

On Thursday, February 5, 2015 12:11 PM, "wallflowervintagetab@gmail.com [tabtrailers]"

<tabtrailers@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Bob, access to the 3Way is mostly through the top, under the stove top. I don't recall

how accessible the gas line connection is in there, but they had to install it somehow.

Be sure you disconnect the electric, 12v and shore power, before taking up the

stovetop. Turn off the propane too...

The stovetop is held in by 4 'toggle' type anchor screws that rotate to their 'released'

position when you loosen the screws a bit. Don't try to remove the screws completely,

you might lose the toggles off the ends of the screws.

It's much easier to do, than to explain.

There are little black rubber caps on each screw head, that also act as the bumpers for

the glass range cover to rest on when it's closed.

HTH

--

Chan

2014 'S' Maxx

jkjenn

Thanks, @Chanw!  That doesn't sound too bad, but then, again, these things never do until I knee deep into them. I don't think I can get to the burner from the stove opening.

Michigan_Mike

I recently removed the Norcold unit and stove, but wouldn't recommend doing it unless you absolutely have to.  I have had an intermittent problem in that my new 2016 Silverado pickup has an alert bell that sounds occasionally (does it for the seat belts too and is very annoying) and warns me to check my trailer wiring, then it stops and says the trailer wiring is connected.   This has been both puzzling and annoying....  I have discussed this with others and gone to some great lengths trying to track the problem down inside/outside the trailer (e.g., checking wiring, butt splices, connections, probable rub points, wiring harnesses, etc.), including pulling the Norcold unit out and checking the wiring harness that runs behind and to the side of the unit.  

When I undid the screws along the front of the Norcold (piece of cake!) I also removed my screen door.  This really wasn't a major deal as the door has a couple of mounting screws holding it in place and one through the bottom door frame area and you basically just pull the door up (there is a screw on each side of the frame that serve as keepers of sorts for the door) and out carefully.  You will see the mounting grove opening and small track that is cut into the plastic side wall portion of the frame of the screen door should you decide to remove it.  

I also had to remove the stove top as this needs to be done to get to the propane line on the fridge (which you need to unhook) and this really wasn't a major issue either as my stove was held in place with four corner-screws and when removed the stove lifts out easily and I was able to do so without unhooking the propane line.  

Note - The Norcold unit WILL NOT budge after removing the front screws along the face of the unit, etc. and WILL APPEAR to be held in place by clips, etc. but it is definitely not.....  The vent piping is solid steel and holds the Norcold in place like the rock of Gibraltar!  

The biggest issue in this entire task relates to the front fridge exhaust vents on the front of the trailer.  It's VERY EASY to unscrew the vent screws as this will now release the Norcold unit (it almost gives off a sigh after unscrewing the vent screws!  - Just kidding!) and allows you to easily slide/remove the Norcold unit out from the cabinet area.  However when it goes back into place, this is where all the fun begins.  Aligning, fastening and screwing the Norcold unit back onto the vent pipes is a swift pain in the butt and I will admit that a second helper on site (would be an enormous help) might have helped out some and allowed me to get the venting installed much easier.  

For one thing I could see from the factory's initial Norcold install that the screws did take them some time to install and mount the Norcold unit flush against the vent pipes.  One of the front screws was off on a slight angle so I ended up struggling with it until I got it back into the proper alignment and after alignment was made I was able to screw the exhaust piping in place tight.  I also had to open the trailers front window, reach in and use my arm to pull the unit into place, get both ends of Norcold piping aligned with the screw threads and secure the Norcold unit into place once and for all.  This can be accomplished, but this area is a tight fit, the piping is rigid and there is no give to it and this portion of the task requires patience, proper alignment, some precision and some stamina.  

As noted above, you will scratch your head in frustration if you think the Norcold unit is easily coming out in the initial phase of unscrewing it from the front of the cabinet as there is a bit more to this task than that.  

jkjenn

Thanks for the honest feedback, @Michigan_Mike. I was afraid it was one of those things that sounded good in theory, but might be painful in practice. If you pass any feedback to the factory, an access panel to the burner for 3-way fridges would be a good change. From what I understand, the burner should be cleaned, regularly and it is a common source for propane fridge problems. I am not sure that the burner is the problem, but it seems like, from what I have read, the correct place to start in diagnosing the problem. It is probably worth it to pay a service center because they can do the additional troubleshooting if it is not the burner.

ericnliz

Michigan_Mike, Just curious if you ever found out what the problem was with the alert bell for the brakes, or is it just one of those new "precaution" alerts? Thanks

Ratkity

I have a different pickup, but my collision beeps would go off for no reason while I was pulling the camper. All I could think was "what now?". Read a little online and found the "Collision Package" that came with the GMC SLT Canyon uses cameras behind the rearview mirror to detect cars ahead for collision warnings and also to beep when you get too close to the dividing lines without a turn signal on. When the windshield is dirty or there is bright, hot direct sun, those sounds will go off. Drove (pun) me nuts until I understood that and then knew there was a reason to turn that button off on certain days!

Mike, hope it's the only gremlin you have. Then infotainment system in mine has a condo of gremlins living it in. I think they have parties in there at night. That might explain all the Starbuck and Dunkin Donut snack bags and coffee cups.

ericnliz

Ratkity, Really? You're blaming the snack bags on the gremlins? Are 'ya sure it's not Harvey sneakin' in a party for the neighborhhod cops?

Ratkity

*shifts eyes left to look at Harvey* Welllllll.... he is supposed to be asleep with me at night. He might know the house alarm now too! He certainly keeps up with my ever-changing Amazon password. I gotta get me some night vision photography stuff to catch these critters in their natural habitat! And Harvey better not be Head Critter!

ericnliz

   

ericnliz

Ratkity, Just be careful, Harvey might put on some pink flamingo skivvies, run around the neighborhood, and blame it ALL on PXL!

Michigan_Mike

ericnliz said:

Michigan_Mike, Just curious if you ever found out what the problem was with the alert bell for the brakes, or is it just one of those new "precaution" alerts? Thanks

I did initially have my SeeLevel ll wired incorrectly and it was one of those strange situations as the tank monitor wouldn't show me the gray-black & fresh water readouts unless I flushed the toilet and the pump was off.     I really hadn't had a chance to dig into it further until I got home from a few trips into Northern Michigan.  Eventually I did find my mistake and that is what prompted me to put together a wiring schematic for the SeeLevel ll system because there were no instructions with the kit I received, so I discussed it in depth with PopT@B and read through his write-up.  But after using the system a bit and encountering the problem I took things apart, traced out the wiring an found that what I thought was the ground wasn't the ground wire.  I changed things up and the tank monitor works as designed.  

I also found a bad ground wire on one of the circuits in the bench, repaired that and things seem to be fine as I took the truck and trailer out last week on a 20 mile test drive and the bell irritant seems to have greatly subsided.  The only time I got the bell was when I exited the freeway and was making a left-hand turn.  For what we endured previously this is about a 99.9% over all improvement and I cannot complain.  

Ratkity said:

I have a different pickup, but my collision beeps would go off for no reason while I was pulling the camper. All I could think was "what now?". Read a little online and found the "Collision Package" that came with the GMC SLT Canyon uses cameras behind the rearview mirror to detect cars ahead for collision warnings and also to beep when you get too close to the dividing lines without a turn signal on. When the windshield is dirty or there is bright, hot direct sun, those sounds will go off. Drove (pun) me nuts until I understood that and then knew there was a reason to turn that button off on certain days!

Mike, hope it's the only gremlin you have. Then infotainment system in mine has a condo of gremlins living it in. I think they have parties in there at night. That might explain all the Starbuck and Dunkin Donut snack bags and coffee cups.

You bring up a good point with the information above as I'm certain my 16 Silverado has the same sensors built in as I do have the safety package and over course the seat vibrates when I am backing up or getting in close to the garage wall, etc.   That is something additional I will consider and try the next trip out next week.   I've always felt that with the enhanced software systems on this vehicle  it might just be over sensitive and pinging the bell randomly.  It would seem to be a ground issue or something between the TV and the trailer, but since the trailer is interconnected through the trailer harness and the electric receiver on the truck the old ground through the ball of the hitch theory no longer applies here.  And with things like electric brakes, Norcold wiring, tank monitoring system, Alde, trailer side lights, etc. it is like finding a needle in a haystack so far as trouble shooting the electrical system, that also is concealed behind walls, the ceiling, etc.  You get my drift here!  

MAG

I want to thank all of you for the perfect DIY instructions on how to take the 3163 fridge out of the Taby. I have decided to abandon the 3163 in favor of the Engle AC/DC refrigerator that is supposed to fit perfectly in it's place. I am tired of fooling around with the LP gas part of the refrigerator. The Engle is a compressor type refrigerator that draws very little power. I have already changed my battery complement to two Lithium 12 volts that will keep the trailer going for several days, so I am not afraid of the small amount of extra power draw. My main concern was just how to pull the 3163 out of the trailer, and you all have been extremely helpful in relieving that concern. Thank you.

gulfarea

I will be following your posts as I also want to replace mine. Art

DougH

@MAG ; I'm wussing out and letting my dealer remove the old 3-way next week.  Which Engle are you contemplating?  They make over a dozen sized units from 22-84 quarts...

   http://www.roadtrucker.com/engel/engel-12-volt-acdc-refrigerator-freezer.htm

I had been thinking of a cheap $585 small Amazon Danfoss based unit like:

   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TJ35L3V

since I don't refrigerate much food, and could use the extra storage space as part of a coffee bar, but maybe fully using that space down to the floor for the fridge / freezer with new fans and ducting might improve eventual resale value. 

VictoriaP

DougH said:

@MAG ; I'm wussing out and letting my dealer remove the old 3-way next week.  Which Engle are you contemplating?  They make over a dozen sized units from 22-84 quarts...

   http://www.roadtrucker.com/engel/engel-12-volt-acdc-refrigerator-freezer.htm

I had been thinking of a cheap $585 small Amazon Danfoss based unit like:

   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TJ35L3V

since I don't refrigerate much food, and could use the extra storage space as part of a coffee bar, but maybe fully using that space down to the floor for the fridge / freezer with new fans and ducting might improve eventual resale value. 

From a resale standpoint, bigger is probably better. From a personal standpoint, the little one on Amazon looks like a fabulous find! I’d like to see more reviews, but their smallest unit is tempting to me as a supplemental and emergency freezer.

MAG

Glad to see that I am not the only one that is trying to do this. I am a photographer, retired, and believe that "a picture is worth a thousand words", so I will be shooting pictures of all the steps that I take to get the Norcold 3163 out. I will remove the Norcold before I order the Engel, just to make sure about the dimensions and fit. I won't be doing this for a few days as it is 110 degrees here in AZ and just to hot for much work like this.
Does anyone know the dimensions of the Norcold 3163, either I am blind, or just can't see, but I can't even find that in the Norcold manual.

TabberJohn

Dimensions: https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/5557/replacing-norcold-3-way-with-12v-compressor-fridge-in-model-s#latest

MAG

Just a question VictoriaP what are they charging you to take it out. I went to an official Norcold service place, and would you believe $65.00 per half hour, they estimated that it could run over $300.00 just to remove the Fridge, and if I wanted it repaired it would be even more, because of re installation and parts. They would back up their service with a whopping 90 day guarantee. My decision was to buy a new refrigerator, and learn to do it myself.

VictoriaP

MAG said:

Just a question VictoriaP what are they charging you to take it out. I went to an official Norcold service place, and would you believe $65.00 per half hour, they estimated that it could run over $300.00 just to remove the Fridge, and if I wanted it repaired it would be even more, because of re installation and parts. They would back up their service with a whopping 90 day guarantee. My decision was to buy a new refrigerator, and learn to do it myself.

I think you meant to tag @DougH on this one.

DougH

@MAG ; I dunno yet what the RV dealer will charge for removal, but I bought from Princess Craft near Austin TX, and they're the nicest folks. I'll ask them to let me know what just that part is, as they're also repacking the axle.  But $200-300 seems right.

DougH

@MAG : Just got the quote.  $328.00
I think that included capping off the unused propane line.

DougH

@MAG : Just picked it up this afternoon:  $282.50 and they taped the DC lines, capped the propane, and covered the vents.  Now to decide how to use all that space aside from the baby top load Danfoss compressor fridge we're buying.

We're thinking of taking the bottom part off and having the choice of 4 drawers, or two drawers and the mini fridge, depending on the nature of the trip. And then building a slide-out coffee stand at the top to protect the underside of the stove, so we can finally make breakfast and latte art at the same time.

Tabaz

Did that also include covering the vent on the floor behind the drop down door facia?

DougH

Nope.  That stock vent plate is still there, though I've not checked to see if it's routed without restriction to its original source (the front two vents near the tub I'm guessing).  The micro fridges still do put a little bit of heat out, so I assume I'll need a fan and air flow path at times?

Tabaz

I believe The two front vents were connected by flexible hoses directly to the fridge. I’m hoping the techs capped those vents so no air enters the cabin. Can’t tell from the photo because of the cover fabric used over the wood panel. On my 320, the floor vent simply provided air to the fridge cabinet area. Good to wait and see if leaving it open benefits the new fridge.