@Marceline, That would work, but use what I did, available on Amazon. Optimate Cable 0-27- Adapter, Polarity SAE. Much simpler version. I hope this helps you out!
2016 T@B MAX S-aka: WolfT@B TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf Spokane, Wa. Eric aka: Lone Wolf
Marceline, that adapter will work. The Zamp port on the TaB has a female positive SAE. Your new found MC4 to SAE adapter has a male positive. You should not need the extra adapter that Eric and I directed you to if you use the Powerwerkz bullet/ SAE adapter.
This thread recently recaptured my attention. As is often the case, we've strayed a bit afield of @Michigan_Mike's original post.
Mike, before posing your questions, you indicated you already some impressions. Please share what you found, and if it's consistent with what others have contributed since then!
Hi Scott,
I did get my 2-235 W panels transported out to and stored in Arizona but was unable to get them up and running. I also feel bad as although I did take a photo of the spec tag on the back of one of the panels I inadvertently deleted it from my iPhone while trying to add enough space to shoot more photos with the phone. Yes, I was feeling a bit embarrassed and foolish after I realized I'd completely deleted the photo from my phone.
I did however take my 200W Zamp portable panel out to AZ for charge capability, picked up two 6-volt golf cart size Interstate batteries from Costco (for about $82 each, plus a $15 core replacement fee) that I installed on my 28' travel trailer parked on site. The Zamp panel is a beast! It kept both trailer batteries topped off via the AZ sun and we never did need for any extra power as there was ample available. I think owning and using the T@B is definitely beneficial in this respect as we've learned how to conserve energy and I am replacing the old incandescent style bulb fixtures in the travel trailer and converting everything over to LED as I have done in my home.
Back to the 235W panels. The spec tag wasn't what I would call a wealth of information and as I recal it did state that each panel had the ability to crank out upwards of 800 volts (maybe I am missing something here?) which I fund perplexing or confusing??? My plan is to revisit this subject when I get back to Arizona as it was over 100 degrees (actually hit 107 F in Why) while Linda and I were there. I ended up doing some cosmetic type repair work on the trailer and we were cleaning things up in anticipation of our next trip out west, which will be longer in duration (for the winter months). This is a labor of love and I hope to construct a fixed mount that will allow me to rotate the panel for optimum sunlight exposure. I did find a small battery powered Ryobi circular saw at Home Depot (a floor model) that I ended up purchasing for $20 after discount, plus military discount was applied, plus another $20 off for applying for a credit card that I cut up when it arrived here. LOL
So that's my story and I'm sticking to it!
Mike - Elmira, Mi / 2019 T@B 400 / 2021 Chevy Silverado LTZ
I found this simple volt meter that I think I'll buy to connect to my Zamp receptacle on my Outback battery/propane box because I need to closely monitor my battery while traveling and using this will be faster and easier. My question is will an adapter be needed? Will the one found by Marceline work?
@GrandmasKid, If your Zamp port is wired like mine, then yes, you will need an adapter. The Zamp ports on the tub are originally configured with the positive leg on the male (i.e., bare) connector. If you look closely at your voltmeter you'll see the polarity of its plug is opposite of what is needed to match the Zamp port.
It's this disparity between Zamp products and Battery Tender products that gives so many people fits about using non-Zamp equipment. I know I sound like a broken record, but it's worth repeating; trace all of your connections back from the battery, and verify for yourself that all the positives and negatives line up. It's really that simple, and it's the only way to guarantee you don't connect something incorrectly!
Scott, I thought the Zamp solar port had the female positive and the male negative to prevent someone from getting shocked if they were exposed to a male positive terminal?
@SAM, that is a valid concern, and I thought that myself until I went and double-checked mine (as well as re-reading Michigan_Mike's explanation from Zamp). I guess it's not really an issue in this case because the port is secured and recessed in such a way you would have to try pretty hard to ground out the bare positive pin.
If this were an SAE connector flopping around loosely it would be a bigger problem, as you run the risk of the bare pin contacting some grounded metal portion of the trailer. Doing so would create an impressive spark show followed by a change of clothing. ;-)
@GrandmasKid, If your Zamp port is wired like mine, then yes, you will need an adapter. The Zamp ports on the tub are originally configured with the positive leg on the male (i.e., bare) connector. If you look closely at your voltmeter you'll see the polarity of its plug is opposite of what is needed to match the Zamp port.
It's this disparity between Zamp products and Battery Tender products that gives so many people fits about using non-Zamp equipment. I know I sound like a broken record, but it's worth repeating; trace all of your connections back from the battery, and verify for yourself that all the positives and negatives line up. It's really that simple, and it's the only way to guarantee you don't connect something incorrectly!
Please heed the above. Here is a link to an adapter that is said to swap the polarity, but be careful.
Agreed. That adapter indeed reverses the polarity of the pins on the plug. However, you NEVER want to actually reverse the electrical polarity a 12VDC system!
@SAM, that is a valid concern, and I thought that myself until I went and double-checked mine (as well as re-reading Michigan_Mike's explanation from Zamp). I guess it's not really an issue in this case because the port is secured and recessed in such a way you would have to try pretty hard to ground out the bare positive pin.
If this were an SAE connector flopping around loosely it would be a bigger problem, as you run the risk of the bare pin contacting some grounded metal portion of the trailer. Doing so would create an impressive spark show followed by a change of clothing. ;-)
LOL re: Sparks and Clothing.
2017 820R Retro Toy Hauler from 2015 Tabitha T@B from 2009 Reverse LG Teardrop (but a T@Bluver at heart)
My Zamp plug receptacle on the tub is not working. At first I thought something might be with my solar panel wrong but it works fine when hooked up directly to the battery. The wiring looks good so maybe there is enough corrosion in the receptacle to stop a good contact. Is there something I can do to clean the contacts? I do recall finding the little rubber cover flopping around before I secured it back.
My Zamp plug receptacle on the tub is not working. At first I thought something might be with my solar panel wrong but it works fine when hooked up directly to the battery. The wiring looks good so maybe there is enough corrosion in the receptacle to stop a good contact. Is there something I can do to clean the contacts? I do recall finding the little rubber cover flopping around before I secured it back.
I would be curious as to how old your Zamp solar panel is? I do know that some of the prior Anderson connectors created problems with some of their earlier panels so they went with a different cable connection. I experienced a bad Anderson connector and Zamp sent me out a new cable for my former 80 W panel and I was back in business. This is what their old (Anderson) connectors looked like (below)....
I do know too that after many uses the solar port pins can fail because of the frequency of use and even the quick disconnect style connectors will break off because of the slight bending action that takes place in the connector when you plug it in or unhook it from the port. You might need to replace the solar port if you've used it for a few years, repeated usage, etc.
Mike - Elmira, Mi / 2019 T@B 400 / 2021 Chevy Silverado LTZ
The port is fairly new, although it has gotten a lot of use. We've put 9,000 miles on our Outback in the last seven months, using the solar panels in five different sites. Anyway, tomorrow I'll take the port apart I guess and see if the wires are carrying current. I tried a cleaner/lubricant from Radioshack that didn't do anything. It does seem strange. The short wiring looks fine. It's a mystery to me. We bought the T@B new seven months ago so I think it's still under warranty though I hate to travel the long distance to the dealer unless it's really necessary.
The port is fairly new, although it has gotten a lot of use. We've put 9,000 miles on our Outback in the last seven months, using the solar panels in five different sites. Anyway, tomorrow I'll take the port apart I guess and see if the wires are carrying current. I tried a cleaner/lubricant from Radio shack that didn't do anything. It does seem strange. The short wiring looks fine. It's a mystery to me. We bought the T@B new seven months ago so I think it's still under warranty though I hate to travel the long distance to the dealer unless it's really necessary.
As long as you've checked the in-line fuse on the solar panel and have previously used it (as you stated) you should be good to go, short of the solar port connectivity issue. Double check the battery connections and your Zamp solar port wires should be fused too, so make sure you check that point out too... Good luck!
Mike - Elmira, Mi / 2019 T@B 400 / 2021 Chevy Silverado LTZ
Mystery solved-The ground wire from my battery to my Zamp receptacle plug came apart at a connector that had not been crimped down tightly. Now with the switch polarity SAE adapter and the simple little Battery Tender volt meter I can check my battery when I stop for gas without opening the cabin or tub. It's working like a charm. Yay!
OK Guys I need help once again. I cannot get my battery to a full charge with the Zamp 80. It is a new battery. I am once again so confused. If I am charging with the Zamp and I am not using anything in the T@B except the Jenson stereo and TV LEDs are on I would think that I could get it charged after all of the hours I Have been charging it. I have a battery disconnect that I turn on when I am charging and off when I am not. Remember, it is sitting in my apartment parking lot, no shore power. I would like to get out on the road soon. Maybe I just don't understand the ZAMP read out. I have studied it and looked online as well. I need to figure out the Zamp and the Alde and then I am off.
2015 T@B M@x S silver and white tv 2010 Lexus RX350 Matador red
What Volt meter and set up do I need to check out the charge(other than the Zamp) I picked up one that plugs into the 12v port over the sink. It just tells me if it is dead charging or charged. red led, yellow led and ?green I guess, cause I have never gotten there
2015 T@B M@x S silver and white tv 2010 Lexus RX350 Matador red
Comments
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf
Hi Scott,
I did get my 2-235 W panels transported out to and stored in Arizona but was unable to get them up and running. I also feel bad as although I did take a photo of the spec tag on the back of one of the panels I inadvertently deleted it from my iPhone while trying to add enough space to shoot more photos with the phone. Yes, I was feeling a bit embarrassed and foolish after I realized I'd completely deleted the photo from my phone.
I did however take my 200W Zamp portable panel out to AZ for charge capability, picked up two 6-volt golf cart size Interstate batteries from Costco (for about $82 each, plus a $15 core replacement fee) that I installed on my 28' travel trailer parked on site. The Zamp panel is a beast! It kept both trailer batteries topped off via the AZ sun and we never did need for any extra power as there was ample available. I think owning and using the T@B is definitely beneficial in this respect as we've learned how to conserve energy and I am replacing the old incandescent style bulb fixtures in the travel trailer and converting everything over to LED as I have done in my home.
Back to the 235W panels. The spec tag wasn't what I would call a wealth of information and as I recal it did state that each panel had the ability to crank out upwards of 800 volts (maybe I am missing something here?) which I fund perplexing or confusing??? My plan is to revisit this subject when I get back to Arizona as it was over 100 degrees (actually hit 107 F in Why) while Linda and I were there. I ended up doing some cosmetic type repair work on the trailer and we were cleaning things up in anticipation of our next trip out west, which will be longer in duration (for the winter months). This is a labor of love and I hope to construct a fixed mount that will allow me to rotate the panel for optimum sunlight exposure. I did find a small battery powered Ryobi circular saw at Home Depot (a floor model) that I ended up purchasing for $20 after discount, plus military discount was applied, plus another $20 off for applying for a credit card that I cut up when it arrived here. LOL
So that's my story and I'm sticking to it!
It's this disparity between Zamp products and Battery Tender products that gives so many people fits about using non-Zamp equipment. I know I sound like a broken record, but it's worth repeating; trace all of your connections back from the battery, and verify for yourself that all the positives and negatives line up. It's really that simple, and it's the only way to guarantee you don't connect something incorrectly!
If this were an SAE connector flopping around loosely it would be a bigger problem, as you run the risk of the bare pin contacting some grounded metal portion of the trailer. Doing so would create an impressive spark show followed by a change of clothing. ;-)
I do know too that after many uses the solar port pins can fail because of the frequency of use and even the quick disconnect style connectors will break off because of the slight bending action that takes place in the connector when you plug it in or unhook it from the port. You might need to replace the solar port if you've used it for a few years, repeated usage, etc.
tv 2010 Lexus RX350 Matador red
tv 2010 Lexus RX350 Matador red