Bearing Maintenance

ScottG

Awesome--thanks again, @N7SHG_Ham.

ScottG

Getting ready to do this, I've reviewed both the Dexter instructions sourced online, and the AL-KO instructions that came with the trailer. A slight discrepancy has emerged.

Upon reassembly, Dexter says to torque the castle nut to 50 ft-lbs to seat the bearings before backing off. In contrast, AL-KO says torque to 20 ft-lbs.

I suspect the net effect of either is the same, but what do I know?. I sent an inquiry to Dexter a couple weeks back, but so far...crickets.

I may be over-thinking this, but to those who have done this maintenance, any insight? 

tabiphile

Torque it to 50 foot pounds...as soon as you do it you'll know that's the right number. You blow right through 20. Once you have your 50 ease the nut back just enough to get the pin through. Turn the pin back and clear and carry on. It's a fun little job. You will get great peace of mind knowing that it's done and that you know how to do it whenever it's required. 

ScottG

Thanks, @tabiphile --that was my inclination as well.

I've done bearing service on smaller simpler utility and boat trailers, but am more concerned about getting the T@B right. On those other trailers I never torqued the castle nut beyond snug-it-up gently and back-it-out a little to get the pin in. 

Is torqueing the castle nut generally advised in all cases? 

WayneW

The point of torquing is to make sure the bearings are fully seated against the races. On small trailers the exact torque probably isn’t that critical, especially since you back the nut off anyway. But Dexter says 50 ft-lbs so that’s what I do. 

@tadiphile is correct. It’s kinda fun, satisfying, and if anything goes wrong while on the road (which it won’t because you did it right) you know how it goes together. Or you can help a fellow traveler if he/she has problems. 

tabiphile

Yes, do it in all cases.
We've all done the snug it until it feels good and back it off approach. Back in the day I did the wheel bearings on my car that way and in hind sight, it's a wonder I never had any serious problems. 
Here's something you can try....tighten the nut by hand the way you normally would that then go back with your torque wrench and figure out how far short of 50  pounds you are (you will be, been there, tried it). You'll be shocked. Once you own a torque wrench you will always use it...you'll be looking for things to use it on

scottincarmel

Does anyone know what type/grade of grease NuCamp is using on the 2021 T@B bearing?

ScottG

scottincarmel said:

Does anyone know what type/grade of grease NuCamp is using on the 2021 T@B bearing?

No idea, but the literature that came with mine had grease specs. I bought a tube locally that matched the specs and have been applying it without incident using the EZLube for the last five years.

When I do my full maintenance, I'm switching to Mobile 1 synthetic. It was one of the recommended greases in Dexter's service manual, and I found a reasonably priced case of 14oz tubes, so that's what it will be for a while.

ScottG

Thanks for the additional tip, @tabiphile --I've no doubt I was pretty far from 50 ft-lbs on my previous projects. Those trailers don't get used much, so maybe I'll open them up and give 'em a snug just to see how much more they seat up.

I actually have four torque wrenches, but have typically used them for small fasteners subject to breakage. I've only recently started using them on big stuff, and I can see your point about it becoming addictive!  ;-)

Freespirit

After 2 years ( first year on dealer lot, 6 months in my possession, 5,000 miles) decided to go forward with greasing the bearing yesterday. After much back and forth between using the zert fitting or packing them by hand, decided on the “easier” method of using the zerts. 

I have to say it was a very easy job and feel good with the results. I was able to force out the old grease and used about 7/8 of a tube per wheel. Will likely use this method several more times before removing the bearings to inspect and pack by hand. 

Being a first time owner of a towed trailer I am still apprehensive when it comes to trailer tires and flats/blowouts. While rotating the tire during the bearing lube  I noticed some slight indentions  in the sidewall of each tire. Not a bubble just a little “wavey”. Took the wheels the trailer off and drove to a tire shop for inspection. I was informed  the tires were fine(manufactured 05/2019, and plenty of tread life left). He said what I was seeing was different segments of tire joined together. He said this particular tire was not manufactured as one piece. 

Since the wheels were off and being overly cautious I decided now was a good time to replace original tires with Goodyear Marathon. 

Time will tell if this was a wise move. 

Cheers

N7SHG_Ham

Proper word is Zerk fittings.

Dexter who makes the axle says complete inspection once a year or 12k miles whichever happens first.

Factory grease is a Lithium complex, don't mix in some other grease.

I use Mobile One synthetic grease.

The full service is not hard, a bit messy. You will need to replace the inner seals, inexpensive and available tons of places to include most local auto parts stores.

tabiphile

You will also hear Zerk fittings called Alemite fittings.....it's interchangeable (kind of).
@N7SHG_Ham highlight mention of lithium grease is extremely important. It's more important then the brand of grease. Mobile 1 (I use this type) Lucus, Royal, whatever you use, the key point is that the binder/carrier in the grease is lithium. Do not ever use a grease that is made with calcium or sodium (Philips) as the carrier. If these are mixed the binder/carrier will separate from the oil in the grease and run out of the bearings. 

ScottG

I finally decided to knock this long-overdue project off the list yesterday. As expected, it was messy and a little time consuming, but not particularly difficult. Everything was still in tip-top shape, despite my only maintenance in six years being to add grease through the EZLube at the start of each season. There was some very slight evidence of grease getting flung from the rear seal on one side, but there was no coating or contamination of any of the brake parts. 

While I had everything apart, I cross-checked part numbers with the Dexter parts list I posted on March 8. Everything matched.

trimtab

My 320 came with Bearing Buddies..and they state>When you use the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors like # BB2441, so you do not need to take apart the wheel hub and repack the bearings. The Bearing Buddy Protectors have a spring loaded seal that keeps the moisture and debris out of the bearings."

ChanW

@trimtab, you might want to make sure that what you're calling Bearing Buddies are not simply the EZ-Lube zerks that all Tabs have had since 2012 or 2013 or so. They look similar, as in they both have zerks to add grease.

If that's the case you don't want to follow the instructions for Bearing Buddies, as they're a different creature, spring loaded, etc.

The Bearing Buddy system has a rubber cap, that's cup shaped, that fits over the end of the hub.

The EZ-Lube system has a little round silver dollar sized rubber plug in the steel bearing cap in the end of the hub.

ScottG

That's interesting, @trimtab. If that is the case than those must have replaced the EZLube spindle--I can't really envision how you would have both and have them work together.

I'm not sure offhand if I consider the Bearing Buddies an improvement. Perhaps on a boat trailer where submersion was an issue. It looks to me like the Bearing Buddies allow you to add grease if needed but not actually replace it as you can with the EZLube.

Dalehelman

IMHO The EZ lube is far superior to bearing buddy’s. EZ lube grease from the back to the front Via a hole in the center of the hub. BB just apply grease to the outside bearing. 

trimtab

MY bad.  I was using Bearing Buddies as a generic exampe.  I really do not know the MFG.name of the ones on my 2020  320 boondock.

ScottG

Here's a good diagram (from the Dexter service manual) of how the EZLube works:


Although they look similar on the face, if I understand Bearing Buddies correctly they are just a cap with a zerk and spring piston that is retrofitted over the outer bearing. The bearings--and the empty hub space between them--are filled with grease which is held under slight pressure to discourage water entry. Grease can be added from the front to keep the bearings packed and maintain the pressure, but there is no provision for pushing the old grease out as with the EZLube.

trimtab

My 2020 320 has EZLube...I just looked. Thanks!

trimtab

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nzKZ7hjExtk

ScottG

This has come up in the distant past, but it is worth repeating for the benefit of new owners. There is quite a lot of dead space between the hub and spindle that may not have been filled with grease during initial assembly. The first time you use the E-Z Lube you may feel like you are pumping forever before grease starts to appear around the zerk. Be patient and go slow--it can take almost a whole tube to get the spaces completely full. 

ChanW

The 'Dexter' bearings and seals that are referenced in this thread (thanks @ScottG), are quite a bit more expensive than the Timken equivalent. You might want to Google the cross-reference numbers. From what the Inter-web is saying, I think they're Timken SET4 and SET17, but not sure, haven't triple checked.

The price difference is pretty huge, Dexter lists @ $30 per bearing/race set, where RockAuto/Timken is < $10 each set (note you need 4 sets). 

The National bearing set is more expensive at RockAuto, but still much less than Dexter. Anyone know about National vs Timken, if one is better quality??

Someone has even said that the Dexter bearings are Timken.

I've gone ahead and ordered the (National) double-lip seals from RockAuto - @ $13.50 with postage. Will let you-all know.

Don't quote me - all hearsay.

qhumberd

When I inspected my bearings last summer, I found the numbers matched the Dexter manual, and the bearings were stamped "china". I bought replacements at the auto parts store with matching number and also made in China. So I am not sure the Dexter brand bearings are different except price

Denny16

Anyone know what type of grease the new factory built TaB bearings are packed with?  Filling the tube in a new bearing setup sounds like a good idea.
cheers

Sharon_is_SAM

@Denny16 - I recently read that nuCamp uses Valvoline GM Multipurpose grease.

This is where I heard it😁

https://youtu.be/CUICcmKVj4w

Denny16

Thanks Sharon.
Cheers

N7SHG_Ham

Hard to buy bearings NOT made in China. I bought a new front hub/bearing set for my pickup, box marked Timken and made in China.

I have had issues with various brands of seals, I think the QC is low and you roll the dice with all brands.

The double lip seal of a high quality is critical on the easy lube, a poor seal will allow grease out onto brakes even brand new. For that reason I stick with Dexter seals and figure they understand that need better than a generic brand.

N7SHG_Ham

@Denny16 brand of grease isn't as critical as type. I think Sharon is correct, but verify. IIRC, any high quality lithium based grease will be compatible.

Denny16

Thanks, I worked that out, once Sharon confirmed it was Mutlitpurpose which is lithium bearing grease.  Just wanted to be sure Dexter or nüCamp was not using the new synthetic type grease.  Valvoline is a good brand.
cheers