There are some great deals on open box solar suitcases with and without controller now through 9/5. Check it out. Including their newest Eclipse models.
Thanks @SAM If I get the 200 Watt Eclipse and use the standard T@B battery, would it provide enough power for a fan or two at night and maybe a few lights? I would expect sunny days for the most part. If I can take my trailer down to the Texas coast, I probably wouldn't have any power available. But I am not sure I am ready to get the somewhat expensive larger batteries before I go. Any thoughts?
2017 Max S - Silver/Red - T@briolet - 2016 Jeep Cherokee - Fredericksburg, TX
@foxden, there really isn't a "standard" T@B battery because the dealer puts what they have on hand into the battery box. The only standard is that it be a group 24 deep cycle or mixed deep cycle. I've seen the amp hours as low as 65 (my sister's) or as high as 85 ah (mine).
200W is a nice size solar set up. Keep in mind you won't always have sunny days and usually only have a max of 4.5 hours of useable daylight.
You'll need a meter for the battery. Just go and get a regular multimeter to measure 12V. Not just use the SeeLevel controls or plug-in to the 12V sockets. Those are hit and miss if you are worried about draining your battery or going long-term without shore power.
This would be a great training time to see how much power you use a day and how much your solar panel replenishes what you use.
Remember 12.8V is a 100% charged battery and 12.1-12.2V is 50% drained battery (without loads). When charging, it's good to see 13.5-13.7V on your meter. It means the solar is keeping up with use. You'll see the value drop to about 12.6V as the daylight drops. That's a "rule of thumb". Good luck!
2017 820R Retro Toy Hauler from 2015 Tabitha T@B from 2009 Reverse LG Teardrop (but a T@Bluver at heart)
@foxden, as Ratkitty reports, you need to know the amperage (capacity) of your battery. Commonly the dealers only install a 75 amp battery of which you can only use 35 watts before you need to recharge with solar. Off hand I don't remember the draw on the stock fantastic fan and it varies by speed. 200 watts with appropriate sun will charge you up faster, but your issue is what happens if you run your fans all night and wake up to a couple days of clouds and rain. That is where the advantage of higher capacity comes in.
So, assuming the low speed setting, running for 9h, you are drawing 11.25 Amp hours from your available 35 Amp hours. When you add other draws, like lights, you end up near making it two nights on a charge. With a 200W solar setup, you will be able to get some charge on cloudy days, and it will have no trouble topping up your battery with a few hours of good sun. But, if you have a few really cloudy days in a row, or have some shading, solar solutions can struggle.
2016 T@b 320 CS-S - 2018 GMC Sierra - St. Catharines, Ontario, Canada
Thanks for the info! I have an Interstate RV/Marine battery SRM-24 that, according to my googling, has 82 ah. If things get really tough and am down there for awhile, I can probably change out the battery. I eventually intend to that at some point any way.
2017 Max S - Silver/Red - T@briolet - 2016 Jeep Cherokee - Fredericksburg, TX
Print a copy of Jenn's spreadsheet and tape it to a wall somewhere in the trailer. Every time you switch on a light or run your fan, etc, refer to the chart for a second and think about how much power you are using, and then think about your battery state of charge. After a few days of that sort of thinking, you will start to get a feel for power use. You would have to work pretty hard turning things on all day to run down 35 amps! The only time I get really concerned with power use is when the sun isn't out.
Those spreadsheets all go hat in hand with Jk Jenn's blog where she discusses battery management and her solar power setup. I'd fooled around with solar panels for a couple of years in a very small way, and when I bought my Tab I was confused about how far a 100 watt panel and a group 24 battery would take me. Jenn's clear hints and instructions and the spreadsheets saved me from my confusing "guesswork" and so many comical internet "discussions." It did take some "practical application" like everything in the Tab, but it is working quite well for me, and I would assume many other owners are happy with their solar setup.
Keep in mind, Nomad (Pxylated) full timed with a group 24 or 27 battery and I think 160 watts of solar. He is out west though, so sun is typically more available. It can be done foxden, just be frugal and have a backup plan.
Last day of a nice Renogy Sale. 20% off a 100 watt monocrystalline suitcase plus another 10% off. Also nice discounts on the Wanderer controller. Check it out before it is gone!
These were on sale at the Renogy site for $218 with the Adventurer controller. Looks cheaper than Amazon price regular price. But not sure I'm comparing apples to apples. Voyager controller on some units is waterproof and this one is not. I'll protect it with a bag etc.
Keep in mind, Nomad (Pxylated) full timed with a group 24 or 27 battery and I think 160 watts of solar. He is out west though, so sun is typically more available. It can be done foxden, just be frugal and have a backup plan.
It can be done. I do not think he stayed in sites more than 3-4 days, usually, and also barely used the battery.
2021 T@b 320 Boondock "Mattie Ross" | 2021 T@b Nights: 239 | Total nights in a T@b 455 | 2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee L Overland | T@b owner since 2014
Comments
200W is a nice size solar set up. Keep in mind you won't always have sunny days and usually only have a max of 4.5 hours of useable daylight.
You'll need a meter for the battery. Just go and get a regular multimeter to measure 12V. Not just use the SeeLevel controls or plug-in to the 12V sockets. Those are hit and miss if you are worried about draining your battery or going long-term without shore power.
This would be a great training time to see how much power you use a day and how much your solar panel replenishes what you use.
Remember 12.8V is a 100% charged battery and 12.1-12.2V is 50% drained battery (without loads). When charging, it's good to see 13.5-13.7V on your meter. It means the solar is keeping up with use. You'll see the value drop to about 12.6V as the daylight drops. That's a "rule of thumb". Good luck!
http://tab-rv.vanillaforums.com/discussion/3422/trailer-power-demand-information
So, assuming the low speed setting, running for 9h, you are drawing 11.25 Amp hours from your available 35 Amp hours. When you add other draws, like lights, you end up near making it two nights on a charge. With a 200W solar setup, you will be able to get some charge on cloudy days, and it will have no trouble topping up your battery with a few hours of good sun. But, if you have a few really cloudy days in a row, or have some shading, solar solutions can struggle.
T@Bit@t 2015 S Max Outback, ‘18 V6 4Runner
http://tab-rv.vanillaforums.com/discussion/3422/trailer-power-demand-information
Those spreadsheets all go hat in hand with Jk Jenn's blog where she discusses battery management and her solar power setup. I'd fooled around with solar panels for a couple of years in a very small way, and when I bought my Tab I was confused about how far a 100 watt panel and a group 24 battery would take me. Jenn's clear hints and instructions and the spreadsheets saved me from my confusing "guesswork" and so many comical internet "discussions." It did take some "practical application" like everything in the Tab, but it is working quite well for me, and I would assume many other owners are happy with their solar setup.
TV: Toyota 4Runner
TV: Toyota 4Runner
TV: Toyota 4Runner
2021 T@b 320 Boondock "Mattie Ross" | 2021 T@b Nights: 239 | Total nights in a T@b 455 | 2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee L Overland | T@b owner since 2014